T_Tank

wow thats really clever way of doing steering

I could try a worm gear but it has to be before the knob wheels at the cab if possible even before the steering shaft goes to the CV but that does mean redoing the entire front axle to allow a worm to be used for steering.

Question on making the unimog RC. Is there a way to reduce the tendency to bump steer when one of the front tires hits a obstical? I'm using a geared down M motor but it really fights to hold the wheels from turning more or less while moving.

I'm still working on my unimog got it today an took me 4 hours so far just to get the chassi assembled but my ADD keeps kicking in an I end up just sitting in awe of how well this thing is put together >.>

If someone had a 3D printer of some some sort of CNC machine you could make most of the parts that way though CNC i'd think aluminum would be the medium used for most of the parts with of course a rubber o ring or something for the seal. I would also dare say we could use some stronger pumps or least larger diameter ones that could be easily motorized.

Its taken some time but I feel I Finally got my version of ZBJ's minimog in its final version so I thought I would share the details an some instructions on how to build your own modified version. RC zbj minimog brickshelf folder RC minimog instructions So here is the basic rundown in functions 1 XL for drive 1 M for steering 1 small PF power pack Pneumatic system (no air tank shown in the LXF) Front an rear pto that have the option of locking out the power to the wheels an only spinning the PTO shafts Front an rear PPTO for pneumatic implements Chains on the side an rear of the dump bed (cause chains are cool >.>) -return to center steering -still 4wd -stiffer suspension to deal with extra weight of the pf gear an implements known bug -the 16T gear that is only braced on one side by a none friction pin moves out of place when under stress load this load can be reduced by turning the final drives at the axle to worm gears to 8t gears which gives the model more torque but heavily sacrifices speed. Current Implements being built Plough Minimog plough Winch Minimog winch Video to come eventually when I have enough spare time >.>

Wouldn't mind some pics of the very first prototype.

Update for the rc lxf file now at v3 now with XL motor drive an pneumatic system to lift the bed up an down (switches not shown in the lxf unsure how to make the old style pneumatic switches) V3 rc minimog BTW the physical model i'm using to test these modifications More to come as I figure out how to put together some implements for the pto on the front an rear an when I get the PPTO parts from bricklink.

When I build I'm normally on skype with some friends an making them deaf with the sound of thousands of bricks moving around :D

I've taken apart temporarly a few of my mocs to see how the gear box would hold an atm the motor seams to pop out under load so I'll put a updated LXF up later this evening with the fixes. I was thinking about putting both motors side by side on the frame but then the rear dump bed would not be able to stay in place an remain functional. edit-- Here is a update to the rc minimog with some gear reductions at the axles an return to center steering an the biggest fix is a different bracket for the M motor that drives the auxiliary an drive train so it doesn't fall out. rc minimog v2

kinda hope someone can test out the rc version for any bugs that might be in the lxf in terms of gearing <,<

Like to see how well the rc conversion works since i don't have the physical parts atm to see how well it operates so post pics guys!

I took some time today to try an figure out how to make this unimog rc by connecting the rear pto system through the gear train to the motor an wheels. Steering was direct drive to the front rack. The shift ring is still inside the vehicle to be toggles a rubber band would be used to keep it in drive until you want to flip the switch to dump the bed.

actually think its possible to do chains by using bb168 and 30104 to make the tire chains no clue how durable they would be but its possible i think.

Very nice work you know might be able to squeeze 2 more cylinders into it if you can get your hand on a smaller battery pack but overall great job rc'ing a older technic model.

No it does not an it would take some reworking of the chassi to make it 4x4 along with needing body modifications to compensate for the offset on the front wheels for turning. Its really not a 4x4 offroad model with the rear suspension its more of something that work well at "urban" environment.

Here is a photo of my 8081 turned rc. http://i928.photobucket.com/albums/ad128/PinTekIndustries/C360_2011-08-2313-38-30.jpg http://i928.photobucket.com/albums/ad128/PinTekIndustries/C360_2011-08-2313-14-06.jpg http://i928.photobucket.com/albums/ad128/PinTekIndustries/C360_2011-08-2313-15-58.jpg http://i928.photobucket.com/albums/ad128/PinTekIndustries/C360_2011-08-2313-20-44.jpg http://i928.photobucket.com/albums/ad128/PinTekIndustries/C360_2011-08-2313-16-29.jpg List of mods 1 lego rc buggy motor 1 PF m motor 1 pf receiver Larger tire option for the factory rims. Functional v8 engine (runs on the upper output of the rc motor so it spins rather fast :D) Removed most of the external red lines an added a few details here an there on the body work redone front suspension (similar to the rebel wrecker's front suspension with a 3rd shock attached to the left an right suspension) The medium motor is mounted vertically to couple of bevel gears then to 2 knob wheels then to a 8t gear that connects to a 24t clutch (had to add a clutch otherwise turning would shut the AAA battery box down with the rc motor) wich then runs the 8t to the gear rack. Drive train goes from the end output of the rc motor to a 8t gear to a 24t gear then straight to the rear axle which gives it decent speed an torque. Still need to get the parts in to rebuild the rear axle to have more correct pendular suspension then it will be all good before I start figuring out how I'm going to make a 4 wheel driver version (will be wider by probably 4-5 studs at the wheels) sorry about the poor grammar >.>

I've gotten a 8081 the other day an instantly put a rc buggy motor into it an a m motor while maintaining most of the stock apperance an putting a v8 into it \o/

I be leave these instructions took YEARS to make an to get them to the quality they are so to me paying a small fee is alright by me because hey the guy took a lot of time to make theses instructions so thumbs up to ya people to help contribute to the community!

Big Earl is faster then my tatra t815t that I've been tinkering on for a lil over 8 months now but still is fairly slow but he is torque y enough to go over obstacles unlike when I was using the rc buggy motor in it that would just end up switching the power box off from power draw >.<

Thanks for the compliment Dlunders! I'm gonna need to fiddle around on the moc to try an make a more rigid center bracing section for Big Earl due to 2 gears beginning to jump when he's under a torque load an the differentials are holding. By the way the new unimog "torque tubes" the C shaped end is the perfect size to hold a 3 stud diff with a 20t double bevel, just a fyi for anyone wanting to make a small live axle.

Here is my monster truck I've been working on (taken it apart about 10 times now to redo things internally) I call it Big Earl (no idea why). One of the neat things about this truck is that its using a couple of parts avail from the unimog set to give the axles plenty of travel. Powered by a XL with steering done by a M motor (has the option for 4 wheel steering) Decent climbing power atm aslong as the bevel gears don't decide the start jumping -_- an this truck is also equiped with differentials to help with the steering since the toe setting isn't correct enough (outside wheel turns further then inside wheel) Fake V6 engine with random bits of detail Fits a technic minifig somewhat comfortably. Ok enough of my poor sentence structuring an grammar fail here some pictures. http://i928.photobucket.com/albums/ad128/PinTekIndustries/2011-08-05161724.jpg http://i928.photobucket.com/albums/ad128/PinTekIndustries/2011-08-05161433.jpg http://i928.photobucket.com/albums/ad128/PinTekIndustries/2011-08-05161412.jpg http://i928.photobucket.com/albums/ad128/PinTekIndustries/2011-08-05161501.jpg http://i928.photobucket.com/albums/ad128/PinTekIndustries/2011-08-05161532.jpg http://i928.photobucket.com/albums/ad128/PinTekIndustries/2011-08-05161615.jpg http://i928.photobucket.com/albums/ad128/PinTekIndustries/2011-08-05161639.jpg And a photo of a early version of Big Earl so you can see how far this truck has gone http://i928.photobucket.com/albums/ad128/PinTekIndustries/2011-07-14121822.jpg sorry about the photo quality my new phone's camera is 5mega pixels less then the one I had before.. I really need to get that old phone working as a standalone camera

thanks for the reply i'm gonna need to manually crack open the connectors on both an try to salvage the wiring which is likely gonna be me ordering new reciever an m motor -_- why did they have to make the wires so easy to fray at the connectors never had this issue wiht the old 9volt wires

Ok basically i have a PF motor an a PF reciever that have a wire at the connector thats getting torn internally(if i turn the wire the right way it starts to work again) I need some help an suggestions to how to get them open'd up an repaired.

very awsome looking 2 thumbs up!