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Didumos69

Eurobricks Dukes
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Everything posted by Didumos69

  1. Didumos69
    Cool! I like the flatter kind of all wheel drive chassis. I'm looking forward to seeing where this is going!
  2. Didumos69
    Sorry, you are right of course, my mistake. I thought of the axle as the male side and the shaft as the female side, but sorry for having such pervert thoughts . They could actually be regarded as hermaphrodites with primary and secondary gender...
  3. Didumos69
    Thanks!. It was just a matter of combining ideas. The concept of using knob gears this way actually comes from the paddle shifter unit of the Porsche. The idea was good, but LEGO's implementation was bad.
  4. Didumos69
    I didn't really follow every step, but I did notice you build this in a very short time span. The details are impressive. Congratulations with this fine piece of art!
  5. Didumos69
    After shortening the travel required to shift gears in my improved paddle shifter unit for the Porsche (42056), I put some effort in trying to use the same concept - a lever knob gear driving a central knob gear - as a base for a 90 degree stepper. I was able to make a compact setup with the shift lever directly operating the shift axle that could in turn drive the clutches of a gearbox (the gearbox is not part of this unit). By using the knob gear inside the shift lever, the rotation speed of the central knob gear is twice the rotation speed of the shift lever itself. As a result each shift requires only a relatively short travel. The stoppers that catch the upper knob gear when shifting are the crucial part of this mechanism. They had to be reliable when it comes to catching the knob gear and needed to allow for a smooth return at the sane time. The whole setup relies on its interaction with the simple 90° limiter., which has been integrated in this unit. I'm very happy with the result. EDIT: I've been working on this a little more. I'wasn't completely satisfied about the return of the shift lever. It requires a lot of silicon power and I couldn't get it working with a new set of red silicon bands. Apparently the old ones (+/- 8 years old) are stronger. So I decided to skip the auto-return completely. The return is not needed for a full shift and a completely manual operation of the shift lever gives a nice feel. Returning the lever can actually be postponed until the next shift. This also allowed me to make an even more simple version of the stepper. In that simple version a different 90° limiter now operates directly on the lower knob gear. The limiter allows for some free movement of the orange paddles, but my guess is that this won't give any trouble when they operate the clutches of the gearbox. So all together I now have two versions: The compact stepper with separate 90° limiter and the simple stepper with limiter directly applied to the lower knob gear. Compact 90° stepper with separate limiter (LXF-file) Simple 90° stepper (LXF-file) Comments and (suggestions for) improvements are welcome!
  6. Didumos69
    I have this one still laying around (based on ideas from MaxSupercars and Appie), but it's certainly not compact and I never tested it and I don't know whether the 15L liftarm has enough movement underneath the 3x11 panel, but it should come close. It does fit with all minimal fixes from the unofficial errata though. The LXF-file also contains the errata and HoG steering. I deliberately left out the reverse gear shifting block from the errata and from my ultimately playable version because it takes up a lot of space and still allows to shift from 4th gear to neutral and back. I think the better way to fix the reverse gear shifting would be to actually bypass the gearbox in reverse. But that would be an advanced MOD and as it adds to realism it should IMO also make sure the gearbox is not engaged when in neutral. That would require the order to be engine->D+N+R->gearbox. Right now it is engine->gearbox->D+N+R.
  7. Didumos69
    Now we're talking . Before you put a lot of time in this you should know somebody made a studless version of the 8860 set already: And instructions are also available: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/crowkillers/8860-revival
  8. Didumos69
    I couldn't find any markings either. Up to now I seem to be the only one with this kind of misprint. It's maybe a bit pointless to go into 'what if' scenarios, but I can't help thinking that this unique part - and its effect on my 42056 build - has added to my dedication to improve this set...
  9. Didumos69
    I tried using the original 4L liftarms and it works just fine, so I re-established them. There was one minor issue: When the right paddle is pulled, the upper end of a 3L pin running through the red 7L thin liftarms at the right side hits the re-established 4L levers. But not before a complete shift has been triggered, so this actually serves as a perfect block. To get the same behavior for the other paddle I replaced the blocking 3L pins on both sides with a 3L pin with 1L axle. Altogether I think this unit has matured into an excellent replacement of the original paddle shifters. Thanks for keeping me sharp! I updated the LXF-file: Note that the newly added 3L pins with 1L axle need to be inserted half a stud deeper than what this file shows. LDD does not allow a full insertion.
  10. Didumos69
    For the sake of completeness of this collection: a small seaplane. LXF-file here.
  11. Didumos69
    Shouldn't this be in this forum: http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?/forum/16-buy-sell-trade-and-finds/. And I think New members are not allowed to sell/trade on this site (site guidelines).
  12. Didumos69
    Nice dragster! For a moment I thought it was a beach bed
  13. Didumos69
    The 4L ones could collide with the red 7L thin liftarms at the opposite (right) side when the right paddle is pulled. They should actually slide over each other, but the moment they meet might give a little stutter. But maybe it will still work out okay with the 4L ones. I might give it a try, because it would look more balanced.
  14. Didumos69
    Turns out that having to revert to the original mechanism - with two side knob gears - isn't that unfortunate . My adjustments to the casing and the removal of the change-over catches and rubber connectors made the return of the shifters far more smooth. But today I discovered that there is another advantage; the paddles need not return as far as in the original unit. In fact, the paddles can be brought one stud closer to the steering wheel. That's a nice thing! And because the lighter return of the paddles requires less silicon power, I was also able to move the silicon bands (red ones in this case) inside the unit, without introducing additional bending. To summarize the advantages compared to the original: Lighter operation Paddles 1 stud closer to the steering wheel Less travel required to shift (about 1.5 stud) Silicon bands inside the unit More realistically angled steering wheel More reliable And this is what it looks like: LXF-file here.
  15. Didumos69
    Thanks! I like long-running projects, but I think this one is nearing its end...
  16. Didumos69
    I could only check 4 of them (the others are in builds right now) and I don't see any text printed on them. I will check the others too over time.
  17. Didumos69
    Indeed I'm glad I discovered that one. And I'm happy to be able to improve the paddle shifter unit after all. The mechanism is practically the same as in the stock build. The main difference is that the casing is stronger and the paddles return more easily. Apparantly there is no need for change-over catches and rubber connectors to obtain a smooth return of the side knob gears. And this one never fails. Here's a video showing the integration of the unit into the Porsche. My adjustments to the casing and the removal of the change-over catches and rubber connectors made the return of the shifters far more smooth. But there is another advantage; the paddles need not return as far as in the original unit. In fact, the paddles can be brought one stud closer to the steering wheel. That's a nice thing! And because of the more smooth return, the paddles could do with less silicon power, which made it possible to move the silicon bands (red ones in this case) inside the unit, without introducing additional bending. To summarize the advantages compared to the original: Lighter operation Paddles 1 stud closer to the steering wheel Less travel required to shift (about 1.5 stud) Silicon bands inside the unit More realistically angled steering wheel More reliable And this is what it looks like from close-by: Now I need to make a few minor changes to the body to make it fit this modification. LXF-file of the current version of the unit can be found here.
  18. Didumos69
    Last night I integrated this paddle shifter unit into the Porsche (42056). Unfortunately I couldn't get it to function properly with the rest of the shift train. The movement of the pushers wasn't sufficient to get the shift axle in front of the gearbox to get over the 45 degree point, which was needed to have a correct interaction with the 90 degree limiter. This means that for the Porsche the alternative unit based on Attika's stepper is not really an option. However, it might very well be an option for a different model. In my Porsche I re-established the two side knob gears and by doing that the mechanism is back to what it was in the stock build. The knob gears serve as levers that amplify (double) the paddle movement. The good thing is that I was able to keep the improved casing and could get rid of the rubber connectors and change-over catches. I posted a video of the integration of this unit into the Porsche in my ultimately playable thread. LXF-file of this version can be found here.
  19. Didumos69
    Yeah, these kind of things can make you crazy. Btw, most of my mods - or actually all of them - to the Porsche remain valid. It's just that I have been hating this paddle shifter unit for it while it's not all that bad after some tweaks .
  20. Didumos69
    Nice to see your personal thread here! Your work deserves it. I like your uni-moc project and will be following its progress with great interest. Good luck!
  21. Didumos69
    It's been a while, but I finally had the time to build in my modified paddle shifter unit. While doing so I discovered that one of the CV-joint axles inbetween the paddle shifter unit and the gearbox was mis-shaped, probably a molding issue (see this topic). So the original paddle shifter unit didn't behave as bad as I have been thinking over the last few months. But after replacing it with the modified version the overall behavior of the unit improved after all. It operates lighter, it returns more easily and the casing is more sturdy and gives a better view on the mechanism inside the unit. And above all, it never fails . Compared to my original modified paddle shifter unit idea, which was based on Attika's stepper, I did have to re-establish the two side knob gears. They serve as levers that accelerate the paddle movement. Without them the movement wasn't sufficient to move the 90 degree indexer by 90 degrees. I could get rid of the rubber connectors though. Here's a quick and dirty video. I still have to do some minor changes, but I'm very happy with the result. LXF-file of the current version of the unit can be found here.
  22. Didumos69
    I think it's a molding issue too. The thought that I have been doing all this Porsche modding with this thing on board is rediculous .
  23. Didumos69
    Thanks to some feedback I received from @t12ung I have been able to improve the errata. No real corrections, but two additions that should reduce the chances on misinterpretation: 1. The blue 3L pins inserted in step 74 of the original building instructions have mistakenly been forgotten in step 75 and further of the errata. Step 74 of the original building instructions should not be omitted. I made a note on this in the errata. 2. When the orange (+0)-liftarms are put into place in step 100 of the errata, it's important to make sure the one to the left side of the gearbox aligns with the (+0)-liftarm inside the 5x11 H-frame. I incorporated the importance of this in step 100 of the errata. The corrected PDF with errata is available via Rebrickable.
  24. Didumos69
    You are right, I will correct this along with the improved step 100. Thanks!
  25. Didumos69
    In my universe the dgb-one is the male part, but that's of minor importance . Okay, makes sense. I checked this specific part, but I don't see any other traces of wear or signs that it would be twisted somehow. I can't imagine this to be the result of use,
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