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Didumos69
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[TIP] A perfect fit
Didumos69 replied to Didumos69's topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling
Some may ask themselves, what's the practical use of all this? And even when you see the use of it, it turns out very hard to tell when you're in a situation where you can actually use this. So that got me thinking and after applying this 'perfect fit' several times, I came to the following rule of thumb: Take the shorter end of any angled (or bend) liftarm. This end is not long enough to span a 5 stud length required for a full (3, 4, 5) triangle; it is either 2 studs long or 3 studs long (measured between pinhole centers). So, when working on a 1-stud grid, the outer pinhole is out-of-grid. However, the outer pinhole is always one stud distant from the grid: Outer end 3 studs long (measured between pinhole centers): To get 'on-grid', move one stud away from the outer pinhole - orthogonal to the outer end - towards the other end of the liftarm. Outer end 2 studs long (measured between pinhole centers): To get 'on-grid', move one stud away from the outer pinhole - orthogonal to the outer end - away from the other end of the liftarm. -
Sorry to bother you again, guys. I'm a bit on a crossroad here. It was quite a learning experience to get the headlights and grill right - the entire nose actually. But somehow I have the feeling the nose is somewhat overdone compared to the rest of the body. Smooth and slick bodywork is not my objective, I want the entire bodywork to contribute to a sturdy whole. Only a few minor decorations here and there. The nose has grown beyond this objective. So I'm thinking of reverting to the shorter - more flat - nose (2 studs shorter). I even think a shorter nose suits this car better. I have been able to use the small panel eye-brows in the shorter version too. In the render below you see the long nose (left) and the short nose (right) next to each other (click to enlarge). I like the right one better, but what do you think? (Don't focus on the lights too much, the darker lights in the right version are a rendering issue. In real life they look similar on different backgrounds.)
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I checked that of course and I have good faith this will work out fine. The front wings are almost completely in front of the wheels and only the outer half of the wings come wide enough to overlap the wheels. Also, when steered the wheels don't do much because of the ideal offset of the Porsche rims. And steering is also quite limited because of the CV-joints used for front wheel drive. Here's a render of the side of the vehicle. Don't pay attention to the rear, it's by no means finished.
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Yeah, despite your clownish comments, I actually took your advice . LOL The grill is no longer the bridge between chassis and hood. That connection sits behind the grill. The grill actually sinks a little into the space right behind the bumper. This makes quite some difference - for the looks - compared to having the grill take its full 3 studs. One more render. This one shows why I named it Hammerhead:
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Thanks! H says, I'm watching you!
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Aha. That area is part of the roll cage. I'm not going to change that frivolously . I think I've got the menacing look I was looking for now :
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Thank you guys. I'm still working on the grill. I don't like it being slanted this much. The front looks like a giant underbite right now. And I will reduce the logo to a single H. I do have ideas for doors. I was thinking of butterfly-doors, but it has to fit the minimal look - concept-car is the right term I guess. A simple (lockable) beam would also make a great minimal door. But after the front I will first do the rear. EDIT: About the area in front of the wheels, just behind the grill. This is where everything is tied together, hood, chassis, beams carrying the headlights, in a very small space. I'm afraid I won't be able to make this more simple. Thanks!
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I do, but it's nowhere near finished... I will drop the axles in the hood. Artwork is a nice suggestion, but I think I'll leave it open.
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Thanks! Actually the tires are only a placeholder for he Porsche tires, but I would be curious to see how 3 of these tires wrapped around a Porsche rim would work out. Yes, I can. There are some recognizable aspects . I redid the hood once again . I took most of the comments into account: I extended the bumper and moved it two studs more forward. This actually matches the vehicles proportions better. I made a sharper nose with lights slanting back more prominently as was suggested by @PorkyMonster . I widened the grill and used smaller lights as was suggested earlier by @zux. I used paired liftarms - decorated with a small panel - to draw the main lines of the hood as was suggested by @agrof and by @Lipko. I used small panels to get the 'piercing eye'-look as was - among others - suggested by @Jeroen Ottens. The wide wing-like front also gave me an idea for a name: Hammerhead (HH) , hence the HH logo in the grill . Not completely sure about that one though. I'm very curious what you guys think of this.
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Thanks for the suggestions. About the grill, two of those DBG(!) parts in the grill are in fact 15L liftarms running through the entire front module and the hood is connected to the chassis via the grill. I won't give up on those .
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That's too big a compliment, but thanks, I appreciate it . I will try rotating those beams. Maybe that will also create some other opportunities for the headlights. Btw, not using panels is not a goal in itself. It's more important to create a consistent whole, so when they add something, especially the small ones, I will use them. I tried that, but it disturbs the eyebrow / angry eye look. It does work in black though. I might reintroduce that while redoing the hood. Yet again ....
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Thank you BusterHaus! And could you? Axle connectors make angles running from 90 degree to 180 degree with 22.5 degree steps, so you should be able to make something out of it. Of course roll cages made from axle connectors are nice too - we see them a lot - but they rely on friction (the connectors can slide off the axles). For this 'rugged' model I wanted to do something more solid. Btw, here are two more renders (click to enlarge). One showing a close-up of the headlights and one showing the model next to @Lipko's Simple(!) Supercar. Just to get an idea of the size, I wouldn't want to claim my build can level with such a great MOC. About the headlights, there is quite a gap underneath them. I could fill it with black parts, but given the minimalistic character of the rest of the body, I decided not to. Capturing the essential lines only, is my motto for this body.
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This is what should do it for now. It's simple and catches the essence of what I had in mind. This way I could bring the hood over the headlights. I used 4 red 4L axles. I checked bricklink and they are quite cheap. I also tried lowering the headlight, but that looked aweful. And I tried with headlights closer to eachother, like in @zux RSW, but that is too small for this scale. I also reduced the number of holes in the hood and widened the big hole in the middle. That hole is now in line with the hole in the roof. Could not make it from paired liftarms - as was suggested by @agrof - because of the way the hood is fixed at both ends. But I do think it's better this way.
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This is all very useful feedback guys, thanks a lot ! It is tempting to use panels here. If there would be a single panel that I would use it is the small panel @agrof is referring to and @zux is using in his RSW. But I will first try without. What I'm thinking about doing is attaching the headlights to the backside of the bumper. That would lower them by half a stud and creates space to have the hood come one stud more forward ans serve as 'eyebrow'. If that doesn't work I could use the same space to use the small 'sober' panels. The suggestion to make the hood less slotted and more in line with the rest of the body is also a very good one . And I will indeed use transparent tiles for the headlights, but when placed on top of a black part they turn black too in my renders, so in my renders I will use non-transparent ones. Thanks!
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Thanks! The wheels and tires are definitely substitutes! Thanks for the suggestion! When used like in the image below it definitely gives me the 'piercing eye'-effect that I'm pursuing. Might even work without the print. What do you think? (Also addressed to @Rishab N, and of course anyone else who feels the urge to give his/her opinion.)
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Thanks! It was in fact Kuipers Concept car that got me out of my dark ages. That car got me acquainted with angular constructions: Thanks! I wanted 'piercing' headlights - as in piercing eyes - that add to road presence, like in the Alpha Romeo below. I think they are a tad too big right now. I'll see what I can do to make them a better fit with the rest of the car. Here's another render showing the 2+ stud ground clearance (click to enlarge).
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Thanks! Thanks! I'm slowly progressing towards something I'm happy with. At first, staying away from panels and flex axles felt a bit like an admission of weakness, but I'm actually starting to enjoy this. I want it to look rugged and working with normal parts only adds to that, or at least that's what I like to believe . I could use some panels here and there, but somehow it has become a challenge to keep them out completely. So I did some digital work on the front. Not many angles this time, only to get a slight curve in the bumper. The longer ends of the angled liftarms each make a pefectly gridded (3, 4, 5)-triangle. So, again everything 'in system'. Next step will be to design the rear end of the car.
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Thanks! I think @Lipko more or less explained in his reply. He recently used the term in Paul Boratko's Scorpion thread. My interpretation is that all connections are exact fits. In many builds the motto is 'what-ever fits', but in angled structures that may lead to flimsy or over-stressed connections. When you combine 'in system' with closed triangular structures you are likely to obtain a rigid build. This is exactly my line of thinking. Btw, I only recently studied your Simple Supercar and I must say I'm really impressed. Even though you labelled it as simple, it's a model that out-stands many other builds - also from other masters - when it comes to neatness and rigidity. And all of that in a ridiculously low profile model. Thanks! As for the rigidity, I probably need to makes changes when I build it in real life. It looks sturdy, but there are many 'one-pin' connections. The rigidity should come from the triangular structures. In fact most angled liftarms have one end that is connected with several pins and one end that is connected to only one pin. When you make sure such 'one-pin' connections are somehow 'form-locked' (in addition to 'friction-locked') it will work out fine (terms recently used and explained by @Jeroen Ottens). As for the Pythagorean theorem, the specific solution you are referring to is the (3, 4, 5)-triangle, which has some nice other properties as well.
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@brickhank, thanks for your update! Finding the right sequence is indeed quite a challenge. It can be done without bending parts, but sometimes that means you need to take the whole thing apart again. Personally, I tend to enjoy those kind of exercises . The gears in the shift train indeed need to be aligned properly to get the mechanism working. I thought I made a note on that in the OP. Anyway, good luck with the rest of the build.
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The roll cage should survive a real roll-over. And it should be possible to carry the car by the roof . All angles are 'in system'.
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Good to know! Have fun, both of you!
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Great! Now I can study this shifting mechanism more closely. Thanks and happy new year to you and @Blakbird too!
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[TIP] A perfect fit
Didumos69 replied to Didumos69's topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling
I get it now. I couldn't read this from the construction only, but I agree a construction or a simple picture can serve as proof. They sometimes even provide immediate insight without the need to deduce anything, at least not consciously. -
Okay, thanks for letting me know. When they become widely available, I will use them in the seats. Working on the body is a bit of an LDD-only exercise so far, simply because I don't have the parts. I decided to go for a free style minimal body, so not the Zootopia fast car. This may not be everybody's cup of tea, but I simply can't get used to working with flex axles and panels. I always find myself studying 8880 when it comes to bodywork. A sturdy body with big holes to see what's inside. Also, others are much better at making perfect rounded shapes. So this is what my workbench currently looks like...
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