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Didumos69

Eurobricks Dukes
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Everything posted by Didumos69

  1. Didumos69
    Excellent work! Lifting the rear side of the hood by one stud really improved the overall resemblance. One question: Does it have opposite Ackermann geometry?
  2. Didumos69
    An adjustable rear wing?
  3. Didumos69
    No I don't and I did not intend to offend you. I'm just recalling things that have been said or discussed before. It was first suggested to lower the front suspension in this post and in following posts @KikoTube and me suggested some changes. I suppose you missed part.of the discussion and I don't blame you because there are a lot of posts. This is why I recalled why we lowered the front suspension in this post, which was before Jeroen posted his bodywork. When you asked again yesterday evening, I thought I'd simply explain it would collide with the bodywork, but now you have the long story. In the end I think we both want the best for this project. I appreciate a lot that you're taking the time to build this model and provide feedback. It's very cool to see it come to life. I hope we're good now.
  4. Didumos69
    The 9l liftarm would conflict with the hood in @Jeroen Ottens's bodywork.
  5. Didumos69
    @Jeroen Ottens, I updated the LXF-file in the OP with your first attempt. I moved your groups to a subgroup and added extra support for the 5L axles in the front. However, I doubt whether there is enough space for the wheels in turns. With a max steering angle of 20 degree the wheels collide with your flex-axle supports, but let's wait for what builders have to say. While looking at it in LDD I thought maybe the body could be two studs narrower. Then the flex-axle fenders could run along the outsides of the big panels. That might give a bit of a wide-body-kit-idea. Just a thought.
  6. Didumos69
    Oh my, this is looking really good! I will work on that. I suppose I can replace the lower width-wise 9L beam running right behind those 5L axles with a 13L one. As for shortening the wheelbase, I will also wait for @BrickbyBrickTechnic's gearbox.
  7. Didumos69
    Of course having this 9L beam there will be stronger, but the idea was to lower the front axles - especially in the middle - to allow for a Lamborghini-like hood, so the question is if the redesigned front axle is strong enough. If you don't like the illegal connection, you could also try this.
  8. Didumos69
    Good luck!
  9. Didumos69
    If BuWizz is not going to help I would be willing to post it on my Youtube channel for you, with your name in the title, and remove it after the contest. Could also do that as a temporary fall-back, so you can at least enter.
  10. Didumos69
    This exactly how I feel about this too. If you arrive at a point where you need a part that doesn't exist, you have to go back and come up with something different. It's that puzzle that makes building fun, at least to me it does.
  11. Didumos69
    Good to know. For.the front axles it wouldn't help though, because the 20t gear has to be on the front side of the diff, because of the gearrack being on the back side. So an axle.needs to run underneath the diff and dropping one stud is not enough for that.
  12. Didumos69
    I had a reason for that. If such a 3l axle gets displaced a little after compressing the suspension several times, its end-stop might get stuck in a pinhole on the side of the adjacent suspension arm. And indeed, the spring is locked-up by the suspension arm. Yes, two pins with axle hole running through two 4l levers and a 4x2 liftarm, close to the springs. I have no problem with that, but maybe @letsbuild or others have.
  13. Didumos69
    I updated the LDD-file accordingly. Is the front better @Jeroen Ottens?
  14. Didumos69
    I don't think TLG has a policy and budget to introduce a certain amount of new parts every year. Maybe specific parts such as rims for a licensed set, but such parts will only be produced for that set and their costs are directly covered by the sets price. Apart from that, introducing new parts only makes sense if they are versatile (like @Bartybum also pointed out), not because there should be a minimal amount of new parts every year, just to please a bunch of grown-up fanatics.
  15. Didumos69
  16. Didumos69
    I agree. With so many parts this is going to be a model that is going to suffer from its own weight a lot. It will probably be a display model just like the Porsche. But still, to judge it properly, I would really like to build it.
  17. Didumos69
    That's what it is, although I'm not awaiting the Bugatti, I'm actually waiting for the latest parts to finish my RC buggy. I actually have the same problem with this type of engine, but if you want something out of the ordinary at this scale, I'm afraid cam-driven pistons are the only possibility. I don't think LEGO is going to introduce new engine-parts. Not if they are only useful for a W-type engine. Thanks! If you want to fiddle with it while awaiting the Bugatti Chiron, instructions can be found on Rebrickable. If you build this: - Be sure to level the bottom-ends of the 3L piston-axles with the bottom-ends of the bushes by pressing them against the flat side of a beam. - Sink the piston-axle-end-stops all the way into the 12t gears. - Make sure the round side of the bushes face down.
  18. Didumos69
    I reworked the mini engine into a 1:8 scale version. Slightly different configuration. If you build this: Be sure to level the bottom-ends of the 3L piston-axles with the bottom-ends of the bushes by pressing them against the flat side of a beam. Sink the piston-axle-end-stops all the way into the 12t gears. Make sure the round side of the bushes face down. Instructions can be found on Rebrickable.
  19. Didumos69
    That could only work if the cylinders would lower by half a stud, which is possible, but the whole block would get a lot longer. I tried and it actually works. I flipped the 3L axles, sunk the stops in the gears and made the bottom-side of the bushes level with the bottom side of the piston-axles, using the flat side of a beam. The movement is now exactly half a stud. Still my only concern for this being a worthy replacement of the 42083 stock W16 is the friction. It runs smooth, but moving the pistons costs energy.
  20. Didumos69
    I don't know actually. The whole setup was the result of extensive trial-and-error, but being able to sink the stops into the gears - which was not possible when using half bushes - should open new possibilities. I'll give it a try this afternoon. The pistons need a space of exactly the height of a flat plate, no more, no less. If flipping the 3L axle works, then it should also work with a half bush and this wheel attached to a 4L axle-with-stop. The stop would sink in the wheel, so it should give the exact same geometry. However, I fear the pistons would stick out too much.
  21. Didumos69
    Indeed the main problem with the standard LEGO parts are the cylinder blocks. The pistons are too far apart by default causing a W16 with standard cylinder blocks to be way oversized. This should come closer (complete block is 12 studs long, just like the 42083 preview video reveals). The pistons are 12mm, slightly closer to the 10.75mm than standard pistons (9mm).
  22. Didumos69
    A stud is 8mm, a knob is 4.8mm. 10.75mm is indeed more close to a standard technic piston, which has 9mm diameter.
  23. Didumos69
    Is it okay if I share an idea to get the middle even lower? EDIT: I'll just add a picture here and leave it up to you what to with it.
  24. Didumos69
    Yes, they are, or actually, the model is 2 studs too wide, but that was a conscious decision. @letsbuild's idea is to give it some kind of wide body kit to keep the body base less wide and to cover-up the over-sized track-width a little. The length is currently in scale with the (width - 2 studs), but could still change of course. I think it's okay. One thing: with this setup the lower suspension arms could be replaced with the 6L DBG ones again. Cool! Would be nice if you make enough photo's to make the LDD from, or will you be doing the digital design yourself?
  25. Didumos69
    I didn't take a close a look at that one before, but it looks really cool. One important difference is that @Lox Lego uses the drive axle (or crankshaft) to keep the engine block in place. Personally I would never use a drive axle to secure anything.
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