Didumos69

The result is stunning! It breathes the spirit of the contest very well imo. Job well done ! And with a time limit as well. I use Movavi for video, but it's not free.

The shark's eyes pierce every one who stands in the way.

Renamed to Mad Nomad.

Great, thanks for letting me know this worked out fine Not yet, but who knows?

Some inspiration: Source: https://www.totf.nl/mad-movie-cars/

Don't know exactly what you mean. I don't have many parts left, it's a b model, so it won't get much heavier. The main structure is also very strong. I added exhausts and did some work on the nose.

That's one way, but having angled links will make your steering sensitive to bumps. The links secure the hubs best when they are place perpendicular to the wheels. Another way to implement Ackermann steering is by moving the ball joints connecting the links to the hub closer to the wheels when the steering rack is in front of the wheels, or away from the wheels when the steering rack is behind the wheels. @Clev, your hubs are friction locked, meaning the hubs may come apart by applying downforce only.

Really cool and mad vehicle!

Okay, I'll keep the wheel lift . @Sleepy, okay, do you have a WIP topic already? I will be using the panels to give it more shape. And I've got some suspensions arms, differentials and CV-joints left to finish it. Here is a video of the latest state. Steering and drive are now behaving as desired.

That's quite a menacing build! I like the cabin. The roof leaning forward only adds to its character.

Interesting. Curious how this will evolve.

Made my first test drive. Speed is okay and the wheels stay put. It has a bit trouble with most of the weight being behind the rear axles, which causes one of the front wheels to lift. I will add weight off course, but if this won't approve, I will need to move the battery / control unit to the center column. Something that sure needs improvement is the steering. It sometimes slips, which requires re-calibrating every now and then, not good. A little more background: The idea is to make something out of the ordinary, something speedy which is also a 42099 B model. To make it speedy I decided to skip the portal hubs and simply attach the wheels to the axles. To avoid the wheels from gradually sliding off their axles, they are locked up with arms along the outside of the wheels. To make these arms sit firmly, so they actually keep the wheels in place, I needed some kind of triangular structure. The 6.5L suspension springs where the perfect solution for that.

Interesting build. Good luck with the contest!

Designed the front axles and a center column. On new year's day I will start building

The motorized version has different mods.

1.4. Motorized.

It will do something like this, so yes 4-wheel steering. Only the rear gets a torsion axle for straight line stability. I did something like this before, but this time it will be motorized.

Mad Nomad Control+ controlled 4-wheel steering and rear wheel drive 2 working guns operated from within the cabin under the hood Fake V6 engine with working pistons and working valves More images here. I decided to share the 3D files of this model. Stud.io file and LDD-file. Note that the LDD-file has placeholders for the biscuit-pieces (sand blue) and has some displaced parts (sand green). It should be fairly obvious where these parts belong. The sand green 3L axle with end-stop at the bottom of the front axles is used to slightly lift the 20t gear above it with its end-stop. Shortly before the apocalypse a fully electric concept vehicle was developed, which carried the name Rocky II. It was ready to be taken in production, but the apocalypse crossed out that ambition... After the apocalypse, survivors found the remains of the Rocky II prototype. The batteries had turned useless because there were no charging points anymore, but an old 7.8L (478 cubic-inch) GMC V6 engine was installed to drive the vehicle and charge the batteries at the same time. Mad Nomad saw its first daylight... Original post in the spoiler.

@qasweder, @Kn0bby, thanks guys! I don't know about controlling 42099 with BuWizz app. To successfully calibrate the steering with the Control+ app, you may consider dropping the parts that form-lock the upper and lower suspension arms. Without these parts the max steering angle is exactly the same as for the A model and calibrating should behave the same too. This B model can actually do without these parts:

Great theme! This suites me very well.

I like it too and have the same concern. Under high torque the idler gears not having their own axle may also cause friction issues. The idler gears would get squeezed against their 'slots' and lock the differential.

Nice strong diff for RC with likely the possibility to add a driving ring for a diff lock, but not practical for gearboxes. I like it.

Well, I'd say the old extension ring is compatible, because it can still serve as a proxy between the old driving ring and the new clutch gears. In fact, when you want to engage the clutch side of a 4L differential with a 20T clutch gear, using a 2L driving ring with an old extension ring is the better option over using the 3L driving ring, because of its extra length. Using the 3L driving ring will give you so much slack that it will slip (image courtesy of @Attika). I used this myself in a centered heavy-duty manual 4-speed AWD gearbox recently and it works perfectly (Stud.io file here, see the spoiler for the non-AWD version).

The old extension ring is the only old ring that is compatible with the new clutch gears.

I was thinking the same thing. Maybe something like in @Attika's Ultimate Pickup, but turned upside down, so you use the side that articulates less than the servo oitput: