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knotian

Eurobricks Citizen
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Everything posted by knotian

  1. Does any one have tips on making tall models easy to separate for transportation? I have made a row of tiles along a joint with only a couple of studs for alignment. The results are not perfect -- but Does anybody have any other suggestions for vertical models? My bigger horizontal elements I can keep to baseplate modules and box up easily. I use bubble wrap and air pouches.
  2. MAB, Has anyone accused you of having psychic powers? Evidently just writing my question down got rid of my mental block and I came through with basically, an invisible joint between layers in my model that will allow me to take it apart relatively easy. Just tried it and built a few more layers on top of the joint and it works. Thanks, Whether you used telepathy or not Ed
  3. I'm at the point where I need to make up my mind about going to local shows. I have a relatively tall, narrow, cylindrical, model. 26"+- tall and 9" wide. That's sitting on it's base with structure both above and below. Should I use a tall box with the structure padded by foam and air bags, or should I plan on incorporating a way to take it apart? I'd like some opinions from people who have packed for travel to shows. They won't be shipped, just packed for vehicle transportation.
  4. I just leave my charger plugged in. Works fine.
  5. I've been using 1:40 for several industrial models and they seem to fit well.
  6. Excellent point! Do you think there is enough ' hesitation ' to convince TLG to stay with the PF? I'd sure join the protest. I do mainly static industrial models that do not need 'RC'. Extension cables for both PF and EV3 do a fine job.
  7. I'd suggest that Eurobricks have a "B" model contest.
  8. In my model there are several parts that stick out and are not structurally required. I tend to turn my models as I build and these parts get in the way. (In this particular model there is a material chute on one side and a long staircase on the other.) I see several ways of handling this in the instructions. 1- Build and attach them as the structure logically develops. 2- No 1 plus adding a text that says they could be built and then saved for later installation. 3- Leaving them to final pages for construction and installation, including only the attachment points in earlier drawings. Since I add a lot of comments, I favor number 2, but it seems like No 3 is prevalent. Any comments? Thanx
  9. It also impacts the store by causing more on line purchases than impulse.
  10. AMEN Why should I have to buy an electronic device just to use Lego. I do not own nor use a tablet or smartphone. I'm strictly a desktop person.
  11. We Gonna have a lot of opinions. Some are product loyalty, some are learning curve, some other. I have been one of the thorns in their sides ever since it got started. It is far from perfect / completed. I seriously think they are trying very hard. From my point of view, which is a new entry to the drawing and instruction arena, I don't plan on changing or trying others. Once you learn a few things, not all of which are written down or shared, I like it. Once I set up a bunch of hot keys to the way I like them, it works quite well. It taught me how to think in steps and organize my work. I think the hardest thing for computer types is the double click rather than drag and drop. I've always followed a work flow of building prototypes (several) before I do the final one. Now stud.io allows me to build, draw, and check instructions as I go. The seamless switch between drawing and seeing resultant instructions develop really helps my thinking. I'd go with Stud.io, warts and all.
  12. I believe that if you submit you are prohibited from publishing plans.
  13. Converting or staying with PF is great idea, but Lego's getting rid of the rechargeable battery is a real downer.
  14. Peppermint and road monkey Yes - Like flying buttresses, long suspension bridges, inverse slopes, etc etc. They may all be correct with connectivity, no collisions, instructions, etc, but when you add in physics they will not build. Also I prefer seeing that someone has built a MOC, not just drawn one. And, yes, a digital art forum would be great so that people can showcase their designs.
  15. Might as well jump in - I don't want to see any digital work that has not been built, or is being built. I'd be in favor of a " Art " forum for all those projects that don't get built. Before the explosion takes place, I have nothing against digital art that is not being built, just that it be separated. In my own case I have drawn objects that I convert to .obj files for work in blender and terragen, and in those cases have some impossible to build structures.
  16. I'll second the masked mini's suggestion. I did one additional starting 5 way pass and that was technic bricks / conventional bricks / wheels / pins and axles / stuff I figured I'd never use. I saved the color sort for last.
  17. A big thank you You won't believe it but that's "Screen Door Molding" over here. Thanks, Ed
  18. Now that it's finished I have a question. What were those slats called at the place you bought them? What is B&Q for us dumb colonials
  19. kodlovaq Much larger like storage tanks at a refinery.
  20. There are a gazillion curved slopes. I was wondering if anyone had built a large diameter tank by stacking slopes with some sort of a structure holding it together. The snot bricks would serve as anchors, but I can't figure if any of the curved slopes can be fashioned into a circle. Thanx Ed
  21. Since I'm mainly interested in Technic and the store's pab wall pretty much ignores Technic, I buy kits, assemble them, then use the parts. Also some purchased from Bricklink vendors.
  22. mxwinters Lookin' good. You might want to make a real simple addition to your desk. If you have some scrap wood. Cut a thin strip and glue/nail it to all edges of the table, so the edge has a lip of about 1/8". I've done this on both of my building tables and have saved tons of time that I used to spend bending over and looking on the floor for pieces.
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