Ngoc Nguyen

Looks like The Lego Company is joining TC25 too, even though quite belatedly. Because the Polybag for Technic 2024 is 30682 NASA Mars Rover Perseverance.

I wish this was a criteria because my Claas Xerion retains the most functions

Is this sheet still maintained?

Apparently not enough to impress the judges tho

But my model is only in the 16th place That's bottom third

Now that the contest's over I just wanna say that the original set I plan to enter is neither the Airbus nor the CLAAS, but this. I've been tinkering with it for a couple of months before the contest started. But I expected that I wouldn't have enough time to find a decent solution for the distinctive grill and a bunch of other areas in a mere two months, so I didn't pick it.

I failed

Where is central differential in that photo? Can you circle it

It's time I finished the PF conversion V2 for 42114. The motor arrangement for V1 is this. XL motor attached to fake engine and front axle for drive, Servo motor for steer, and L motor for tipping bed. Orange for drive, red for steer, blue for tipping. There are a couple of issues with this design: - It is not accurate. Someone pointed out that the motor should go to the middle differential instead. I'm not sure if the setup in the real AH60 is like that, but the design in other RC Technic models is also like that (42070 A, 42070 B, 42129). - The servo motor doesn't allow precise steering. - The steering wheel isn't working because it's not connected to the steering column. The new motor setup is like this. Still orange for drive, red for steer, blue for tipping. This time I used a horizontal L motor for steer. It will connect directly to the steering wheel on the top and go through a series of gear reduction on the bottom. The L motor formerly used to tip the bed now drives the wheels (the orange one).. It is connected to the 8z gear and that connects to the middle differential. If that setup turns out to be too slow I can connect the motor to the other end of the differential instead. The gear that tips the bed is now put behind the frame.

Wazzup guys, this is a Technic video from Racingbrick!

I can do the instructions if you allow me to.

I guess there won't be any Contest about that

Is there a way to keep the 2x3 Tile with clip in place? I'm using a bar with clip but it looks like it's an illegal connection.

Here's a fun motorization contest idea: Use 1 simple hub and 1 L motor and build something in a given dimension constraining box.

A couple of years from now when there are more micro panels, perhaps we can do a technic recreation x small car contest: recreate a speed champion set in Technic small car scale.

The problem with slack is mainly the slack in the rear axle, while your approach only increases the friction for the HOG and the front axle steering though.

Even though the contest entry has been submitted, there are still a couple of features I'd like to work on before I publish this model. Help wanted: I need suggestions for the fender. When I built this model in Studio, there's a gap between the fender and the tyre. But in real life due to the weight the tyre will rub into the fender. The same happens to the front fender. One solution that I tried is to cut back on the thickness of the fender and move the wheels outwards by 0.5 stud. The wheels no longer rubbed against the fender, but the tractor looks weird. The wheel are too far from the body, and the fenders dont even look like they will do what fenders will do. I can't really raise the fenders because the front one will interfere with the hood during steering and the rear one will interfere with the cabin rotation. I also did try the middle Technic panel 2x3, but that piece is still 1 stud thick at the axle holes so the wheels still rub. Also there's no way to fix it in place for the front fender. So I think this problem can only be solved with System pieces, as they allow lower thickness. The problem is that I have very limited knowledge of System pieces, so I can use some suggestions. This is one solution that I came up with, but I'm not quite fond of it because I'd like the fender cover to be slightly lower, like in the middle of the row. Also it's just 1 stud thick, and it'd look better if it can be longer to the outside to cover the wheels properly. Any idea?

The topic is locked. You cant edit your post anymore.

Next thing I know, there will be an upscale contest.

Cry in my Airbus.

A study of a compact 3 mode steering structure. 1. Front axle Front wheel steering is connected to a liftarm running parallel to the chassis. This liftarm is connected to two 2L liftarms in the back. One 2L liftarm is above the spine connected to the axle going through the turntable, serving as a HOG. One 2L liftarm is below the spine and connected to the cam piece through the 3L axle in the middle. The cam piece serves as one half of the selector mechanism. 2. Rear Axle Rear axle steering rack is also connected to a 2L liftarm above the spine. 3. The Lock Position. The Lock Position ensures that the transmission from the HOG doesnt affect the rear axle, and at the same time prevent the rear axle from steering. Given the slack in the liftarms and frictionless pins, that is impossible, but at least the lock position restricts the steering of the rear axle. 4. The Selector Mechanism The selecter mechanism has two parts. The first part is the cam piece mentioned above. The second part is this red submodel. It has four holes, and the bottom left hole is connected to the rear axle steering. Movement from the HOG will reach the cam piece beneath the red submodel, and the cam piece will connect to the red submodel if a selector piece is put into one of the top two holes: - Top left hole allows crab steering - Top right hole allows 4 wheel steering. Bottom right hole fixes the selector to a horizontal line, so it locks the rear axle steering, so this allows front wheel steering only. Given that the red submodel is connected to two points at a time at most, and both of them are loose connectors, and if no steering mode is chosen then the red submodel can rotate around the bottom left pin hole and , there should be another connecting point to stabilize it. Since it's gonna move back and forth during the steering, I decided to let it slide along an axle. 5. The Selector Piece and the lower half of the selector mechanism. Even though the final solution is straightforward, it took a lot of thinking to get it right. There are lots of constraints to take into account. - It must not be too long, because the cabin when rotated backwards will be above it. - It must not be too short so that pulling it out is not too difficult. - It must not be 1L thick so that there is room for movements during steering. It should also ideally: - Be held firm enough to not fall out during play - Be held not too firm to make pulling it out too difficult. The selector mechanism has two halves, as mentions above. The upper half - the red submodel - design is finalized, so only the lower half can change. A couple of options: - Piece 98585 with pin hole underneath + Axle 3 with stop: Result: Axle falls out too easily. Also too short so pulling out is a struggle. - Piece 98585 with axle hole underneath + Axle 3 with stop. Result: Axle is held firm, but pulling out is even harder. - Piece 98585 with axle hole underneath + Axle 4 with stop. Result: Axle is held firm, pulling out is slightly easier. But it's not the degree of ease that I want. That was when I thought of using the cam piece, and only one of it. The cam piece still has axle so it can still hold the axle, but it's made of a softer plaster, and there's only one of it, it has a slightly looser grip. And that's my final design choice. And that concludes that study. Thanks for reading.

And I shall claim credit for nudging Jim into making this contest happen I know this would be a fun experience, based on my previous experience with shrinking models.

Toast to a successful contest

It's daytime in my place now so there is more light. That allows me to take some photos of this model in a more flattering light. Look how cute this is.