supertruper1988

The concepts apply from ldd. you need to build a fixture that you can use to move parts along to position them. There is also the option to use the rotation (H key is the shortcut) and translation (T key is the short cut) tools in studio to move parts. The step size for the translation movement is defined by the grid size in the toolbar. There is no snapping data for things like minifigs holding non-bar objects.

The last time it happened I started learning QT hoping to fix the issue I was having. He replied a few months later and I had not made it far enough to make any progress hahaha He should come around eventually. I did email him as well as put in a support ticket both on GitHub and SourceForge.

This happens from time to time. I had an issue and emailed him a couple times and didnt hear back for 18 months.

Well this thread is 5 years old. He is the decal maker for most of us serious modelers. if you send him a message via his site, you might be able to see if he can print you a set.

Legoman666 is the owner of okbrickworks.com

Dang, I do my best work by candlelight hahahaha

This is good info. I have also seen a few folks in europe modeling in 1:45 (1 stud = 360mm) which I can add to the chart and list all the real dimensions in mm as some kind of starting point.

In my "blanket statement" was based on facts and although I didnt dig up old LUGNet posts, there is evidence out there that PWM does harm LEGO 9V train motors. I surely am not the only one that has only heard of PWM in the context of it harming LEGO motors. Your post is very informational but even you admit that the "snubber network" is not as good as a capacitor across the motor terminals. I know you tested on stock motors but how many cars? How much weight was used? We all know that there are a LOT of variations in how a motors perform given different situations. Why not use some kind of linear converter if the PWM is the best for control an additional linear converter would also be something to place between the output and rails either as a part of this or as a separate product? I am mostly frustrated that this is yet another cart before the horse (motors) and in the space of time that is between the release of this and the hope of a motor release, there is the expectation that we, as the users, are to risk our very old and very expensive motors? Unless of course you intend to release both the power stations and the motors at the same time but that is yet to be communicated.

I am very certain that PWN will kill original LEGO 9V train motors. There have been many reports going back to the late 90's and early 2000's of guys trying to control trains with the yellow Mindstorms and the PWM that is used by that system was killing the motors. Modern PF/PUP motors have a capacitor in the motor to smooth out Pulse Width Modulation to soften the effects on the motor but anyone attempting to use this power station with original LEGO motors will have a great risk of killing very valuable motors.

Couple thoughts here, it is not very easy with LEGO to match motor speeds across types without also diving into the world of custom programing. It could like like be accomplished with a custom app running pybricks or some combination. As a side note, if you can gear the L motors at 1:1 then 45 feet of train on an appropriately sized, and flat layout, will not be an issue. If you can swing a second locomotive also with two more L motors, it will not be an issue at all. I have pulled ~20 feet of train on a single L motor.

This has to do with studio's terrible rendering engine for instructions and building. I would suggest that you export to LDraw and use Lpub3D for these instructions. Its a bit of a learning curve but the developer of Lpub3D has made a lot of progress in making it user friendly

What I do is take the part I need a screw for and head on over to the local hardware store and check the various sizes they have. Usually a range of screw types in many sizes can be bought from the bolt bins for pennies. if they dont have exactly what you are after then at least you will know the size and thread pitch.

Based on the text of the above posts, from @BrokenEye I believe him to be be saying that he gathered the color codes directly from the program which are not affected by any such color adjustments on the monitor output side.

Thanks @BrokenEye! I will make good use of this! @Mylenium this isnt about printing or any other issue you have raised. It seems the goal is to simply match the colors that will turn out nicely with other LDD decorations.

8 years old? sure thing pal

And 6 years old so maybe a good reason for that

9 years later im sure its still viable :thumbsdown:

Oh wow I like these a lot! RES-Q was a big part of my childhood LEGO collection. I was missing the HQ and the mail order only hovercraft. Can't wait to see more of these!

I have a bunch of the metal track from OKBrickworks. I really like it and if you need (rather really really want) 9V then its essentially the only way to get it (metal rails) I know that the files for the 4DBrix are different from the metal rails but both are high quality prints.

As far as I can tell the "percentage" in the instructions page is based on the page size and DPI. You may be able to "fake" out the program by creating very large "pages" that have a set percentage but are multiples of each other in size. Like A2, A3, A4 for example.

Train station roof?

This is great! I know I will need some of these soonish!

I think you mean Brick Train Depot. BrickTracks doesn’t sell any wheels besides the replacements for the 57878 wheels. Brick Train depot has a huge selection of wheels from shupp with some additions. https://bricktraindepot.com/shop/wheels/ Also better prices than shapeways. The black are printed. On an SLA printer so they are very smooth.

When you say "LEGO" track do you mean only pieces produced by LEGO or are you including larger cureves produced by third parties that are compatible with LEGO?

@AbleChristopher This is truly a great build! I am going to be gawking over the pictures for a long time to come! I see you got banned (again) for this tirade. Be sure to come back with a new account like or @ProvenceTristram or Shrike Arghast and lay your ode de pretentious on us in a few days. Remember that the difference between digital and real bricks is gravity and physics. Im sorry you dont understand that and you feel that insulting an entire race of people to make your point about a kids toy was needed. Not sorry to see you go