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ozacek

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Everything posted by ozacek

  1. ozacek
    Can't comment on that since I don't have a smartphone. According to the instuctions, if you hold a button pair for 3 seconds, it swaps the direction.
  2. ozacek
    I think it's exactly the same as the Mould King one, which I just started talking about 2 posts above.
  3. ozacek
    (conversation continued from there) @kbalage I've quickly tried the Mould King battery box & remote and didn't observe any particular problem. Is there anything I should be testing in particular? The controller also has an additional interesting functionality, you can combine two outputs at the press of a switch button. Ex. In normal operation button A controls output A and button B controls output B, and if you press the switch, button A controls outputs A & B. So ex. if you have two motors combined on one axle, it allows to dynamically change the power given to that axle.
  4. ozacek
    I put too much money into PF components to switch to another system.. plus I don't have a smartphone, so Control+ is a definite no-go for me. I do use a substractor, but still driving each track with its own motor. The reason I have the substractor is to power the fake V6 that lies underneath, and to guarantee equal speed on both sides (slight variations will make the direction drift). I didn't want to power the tracks with the combined motors because then it's double the torque on a single path. I'll most likely make instructions, though I'm using two non-Lego curved 5 x 3 panels in the frame, which will be a problem. I guess I'll modify it to use the bigger sprockets then. The tracks are tight indeed, but I thought it didn't matter, thanks for pointing that out. The reason why I removed one track is because it looked very loose otherwise. I'll try the one-stud offset, or maybe when I change the sprocket size the problem will sort itself.
  5. ozacek
    After @Marxpek 's cool post about the Ripsaw EV1, and seeing the EV3 from the same autor (https://www.renderhub.com/dmitriykotliar/ripsaw-ssr1-ev3), I decided to try to do it. Although not anywhere as extreme, "only" using 2 L-motors. Yesterday I made an early prototype and I think it turned out alright. I still have to fix some colors when I get the parts, and figure out how to do a proper tail wing. I'm using the smaller sprocket wheels and I was wondering, is there an advantage to using bigger ones? They'd give more speed, but that can be achieved though gearing also.
  6. ozacek
    You can see it (and others as well) in the website that Marxpek had posted previously: https://www.renderhub.com/dmitriykotliar/ripsaw-ssr1-ev3
  7. ozacek
    That's one cool-looking tracked-racer! Also I really like the look of the SSR1-EV3, I'm tempted to try to build that one..
  8. ozacek
    I will soon. From what I understand this one is quite different from the Cada one, but we'll see. What were the problem(s) with the Cada one?
  9. ozacek
    It is strange isn't, how such a big company has such trouble when it comes to electronics. Mould King as released a PF battery box the size of the smaller one from Lego, but with technic pin holes for proper connection, rechargable, with 4 connectors, able to power at least 4 L-motors and one servo, 2.4GHz wireless controllable with either a physical remote or a phone app, all this for a very decent price. Basically everything one could wish for. It's really puzzling how small-player Mould King can do it, but market-giant Lego can't..
  10. ozacek
    I'll try that with the motor inside the engine (there's not enough space, but since I don't plan on building the frame, I have the freedom of giving it more space :) Also, I find it's a bit boring that the 2nd lever is just lo/hi, which means just more gear ratios. I think it would have been more interesting if it was used to switch between 2WD/4WD, and I'd like to try that too.
  11. ozacek
    Great, thanks! Now I understand. Lego should really be showing such explanations instead of showing how to open the doors & hood and pull the winch... I'm guessing if I place the motor so that power comes from the engine instead of from the wheels, then the gearing sequence should be right? (if so, that's probably why it looks reverse - normally power comes from the engine).
  12. ozacek
    Is it? People keep saying that, but I have to say, I've never met a kid with even the remotest interest in gearboxes...
  13. ozacek
    Finished building the chassis. "the most sophisticated LEGO® Technic™ gearbox to date"... actually too sophisticated for me, I can't figure out how it all works :( Though I'm always careful with friction, in the higher gears the force needed to push the frame is so high that when I stop pushing it, it races backwards like it's a pull-back motor!
  14. ozacek
    Great! It's like GBC for technic-figs :)
  15. ozacek
    Currently building the chassis; the 90-degree limiter for gear switching must be one of the tiniest ever! Very ingenious, I like that.
  16. ozacek
    BTW small improvement to the PF-base: I think it looks much better if the dark bluish gray of the receiver aligns with the dark bluish gray of the battery box:
  17. ozacek
    Nice, I like the blue theme too! Although as far as I can see, only one of the 4 anchor points will work (the front bush pin). But anchor points really aren't the most difficult thing to patch.. It's funny how the blue pins look azure next to dark blue.
  18. ozacek
    > [...] and the presentation of it. Sorry but for me it looks more like a video showcasing video effects than presenting a technic model. I personally find that quite annoying to watch, it moves around too hectically, leaving the viewer unable to look at anything in detail.
  19. ozacek
    Just built this set today. I actually liked the build better than I expected. Although I was quite surprised, you're building this great door mechanism, only to find out later than it's not a mechanism at all, and it gets completely locked away. So with very small modifications I brought it back, and I think it looks pretty cool: (disclaimer for purists: personally I don't care whether the real car has such a door mechanism or not) Video: Corvette simple door mechanism mod
  20. ozacek
    I'm not sure if the wheel size is the right measure, many models could easily be slightly off scale, particularily when the scale is small. If we consider the 15L width & ~600 parts count of the official transporter cars, then I could only find the two I mentioned. EDIT: but with your idea of researching via the wheel hubs, I did find a few of them!
  21. ozacek
    Fully agree. Following all the praise I recently bought & built the 8880 for the first time, and was left largely unimpressed in comparision with what exists today as MOCs and official sets. And like you said, too many tailor-made parts to achieve the functionality, not very impressive either.
  22. ozacek
    Are there that many? I only know of MOC-8013 and now this one. I was wondering, how does that remove the need for a differential? The way I understand it, since both motors provide the same speed, one wheel will still have to spin free when taking a turn (but I'm no pro in car mechanics..)
  23. ozacek
    The reason I don't use PDFs is because I find they lower the image quality. My images are pristine lossless PNGs, and I find after making a PDF we see image compression artefacts.
  24. ozacek
    I've now finished the instructions for the PF base and they are available on Rebrickable: rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-28766/olivierz/4x4-x-treme-off-roader-42099-power-functions-base
  25. ozacek
    By any chance, is there anyone who knows how to do cabling in MLCAD projects (with LSynth I assume), and is willing to do it for me? If you do, please message me. Otherwise I'll just leave the instructions without any cables and it will be up to the builder to figure it out.
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