ozacek

I guess the conclusion is pretty clear... thank you all for your input!

Hi all, After months of work I'm almost done designing a hay rake for the Class Xerion, with one design decision left for which I just can't make up my mind. Opinions are welcome. The rake arms on the left are more symetric but shorter. The arms on the right have alternating lengths, but overall more amplitude.

Do you mean under the vehicule? It's exactly the same as 42065, I didn't make changes to that part (except adding 42046's wheels & caps, which was done just by using longer axles - they happen to fit perfectly next to the tread sprocket wheels). The more difficult part was to fit the IR receiver at the back of the car, instead of the narrower pull-back motor. Here's a picture of that.

I really like the mean look of the 42046 Gataway Racer, and also the fun aspect of the 42065 RC Tracked Racer, so I decided to combine both by mounting 42046 on 42065's base, and I'm quite happy with the result. The mod was made with minimal changes to both parts (except the chassis color for 42065's base which I made red).

Here's my modification to the Speed Remote Control to use it to drive & steer a vehicle, in case anyone is looking for a similar mod. The steering part is obviously trivial; the driving part uses a handle for forward/reverse.

Sure. It's based on an earlier post, but with modifications. The large wheels cause strong torsion on their axis, so the central axle is important. This solution leaves a small gap between the wheels, but it doesn't seem possible to properly bridge it. You could remove the 1/2-bushes and use 2L axles instead of 3L, but they would only partially enter the bush-longpin's and so it compromises the strength.

There's the red version of the Xerion. It's also 4WD driven by an XL-motor and servo-steered (both remote-controlled) while preserving the 3 steering modes and cabin rotation (although now manual since the mechanism had to go to make way for the servo-motor). The battery is still turned on by the side power-lever.

Here's the double-wheeled Xerion, full-equipped with both Main- and B-model tools. The roof lights also light up when the motor is turned on (without affecting the cabin rotation).

Thanks again for the reply (I've only seen it now). I tried your fix of extending the catches, and while it seems to improve the situation, it also doesn't seem to fix the problem completely for me, as going from 3rd to 2nd almost systematically hangs (though now I was able to witness what you explained - two driving rings are indeed engaged at the same time). Note that I'm probably unaffected by the 90-degrees shift issue, since I'm using a servo-motor to switch the gears, which guarantees a precise 90-degrees turn. BTW in case nobody reported back on your question whether or not the catch extensinon fits the frame: it appears it does.

Thank you for the reply. I had actually seen that post, but from what I understand it's about reducing friction, and it's hard to imagine the complete lockup would happen because of friction, since friction is something continuous, while the lockup only happens at a very specific moment, i.e. when we switch gears.

Hello, Sorry if this question might seem redundant, but I was looking through the posts for an explanation why the gearbox often completely hangs when trying to shift gears while the motor is running (even though the transmission is supposed to be synchronized). I found posts about series of changes that will, among others, fix that problem, but I'm interested in a technical explanation why this specific problem occurs. I noticed that when it happens, everything hangs so strongly that it stalls my XL motor. Thanks!

Here's a modification of the steering block to encompass a servo-motor, along with a PF-switch to control it. The nice thing is that the switch can act as a shift stick to electrically shift gears. However since the swich only has 3 positions, one gear becomes unaccessible. Modifications to the appearance of the steering block are kept minimal.

Today I made a new 12V layout that exactly fits the space between furniture in my living room, using various building tricks to bring the track where I want. I will be using this track to test a dual-voltage JR700 Shinkansen, that can run seamlessly on either 12V or 9V tracks. It uses a 12V pickup brick that feeds into the 9V engine using electric plates (trick discussed in these forums): https://drive.google...RDdqazRZZzJ1ZGc

@harnbak: >Where did you find these tracks? I designed them :) > It seems that the third layout has an isolated/not interchangeable track True, I didn't bother adding the missing switch pair because it was already too large, but it's quite simple. > Are you going to build an elevated part again? I'm currently not building tracks anymore, these drafts I made a long time ago...

Before coming up with the final design for my I had a few other drafts, most of which I had to abandon because they were just a bit too big to fit my room. I recently stumbled upon these and I thought I'd post them here in case someone would be interested in trying them out. Like the final layout, they all have 3 independent interchangeable tracks. https://drive.google...Z3VOaUgwVTcwaWs https://drive.google...R1R6czlrVjV1dkE https://drive.google...TUFqZ1VFSDVVZlU https://drive.google...QmxZY0hBbGxDVXM