zenzic

IR Receiver

Something like this maybe? Has always been my favorite type of crane as a kid. :)

That car you posted looks great, rm8. Any more pictures to be found of that? I've search vk.com/technic_club but couldn't find it there.

Looks very nice! Good looking angles on the nose and trunk. Are those copper rims lego parts? Liked your Pajero as well. :)

3: 10 11: 6 6: 4 2: 3 5: 2 10: 1

That's a good way to start off, but for me tire size dictates scale. I've only got unimog, grand prix and custom tires for example.

Yep, the front axle is where it gets problematic for me as well if I want to strictly respect the scale. :D I deviate, but not to the point where it gets obvious visually that the scale is off.

More details of that gearbox can be found here: http://sariel.pl/2009/01/direction-sensitive-gearbox/#more-239

Very nice construction! That's unexpected, no? Is this machine that hard on the PF motors?

Awesome moc! I envy the amount of tiles you own. Has it been a costly project? How much pieces in total? Does the bike actually fit on the tow hook carrier?

Thanks for the tips, guys! Wouldn't using the F1 hubs lead to having the pivot point out of line with the pivot points of the hub? With the portal hubs you can actually use an U-joint inside the hubs. With the F1 hubs you're restricted to using the CV joints, which seem weaker and have less turning radius. I tried them previously, but some pointed out issues with the U-joint being a weak spot here:

I've created a live axle with portal hubs, but I'm not quite happy with the result. As you can this axle is meant to have both drive and steering motors on the main chassis, not on the axle. This means there's a need to have two axles connected to the main body, the joint at the bottom and the smaller one right above. I expect this will lead to problems when compressing the springs, since the axle will pivot around the joint and the steering axle will consequently restrict this movement significantly. Are there any better way to transfer both steering and drive from the body to the live axle?

Very impressive and amazing detail. Seems like there is not much more info to be found about this moc. Would have loved some pictures with objects for scale. :)

Great tip! With price drops like that you can drive for quite a few km's and still save some serious money. I'm 80 km off, but have to skip this unfortunately. :)

Doesn't the same apply to Zblj's design above then? Or is the U-joint issue mitigated somehow by the gear reduction in the portal hubs?

Agreed, the geometry is off here. However the 3L axle between the two joints is still about 1L inside the CV joint when steering is at full lock, while the fixed joint is at angle less than 90 degrees which allows it to function properly. A nice side effect is that the angle of CV joint is very small. The proper way to solve this would be switching the axle around and connect the CV joint directly to the wheel hub, which moves the pivoting point towards the wheel. The fixed joint is at a larger angle than the CV joint however, and using the CV joint at such an angle tends to pop it out. To prevent this from happening you would be forced to decrease your full lock angle significantly.

My guess is you'll still need some way to let the axle in between the wishbones lengthen or shorten, by allowing it to slide for instance, since the distance between the wheel hub joint and the joint at the other end changes when pivoting the wheel hub. I started building the same thing a week ago and I must admit I underestimated the complexity of this structure. I think I found a relatively sturdy solution now. I'll post a picture in a few hours. Edit: LDD did not allow me to connect all pieces as I was able to in reality. The shock absorbers should be connected to the horizontal 3m axle in between the 11m beams. In reality this pushes the wishbones down. The two separate 3m axles fit between the CV joints and the fixed joints. If my memory serves me right the steering rack should be on the same plane as the grey spaceframe element, as it is drawn here, although it might need to move one stud towards the camera. It might be desirable to add a 5m half width beam vertically to each pair of wishbones parallel to the 11m beams to avoid the pins popping out of the wheel hubs.

Now I'm tempted to give that a try this evening.

That yellow one looks great! When will the part list be available on rebrickable? I'd like to know how much these parts are going to cost me before I consider buying instructions.

This is an awesome moc, Tim! Both in function and aesthetics! Congratulations!

I've applied the stickers to my new 9398 this weekend. I have tried a new technique and am pleased to say this is the best I have done so far. Felt like sharing the details with everyone here. Using a box cutter with fresh blade I have cut out every sticker, following the grooves. The black stickers require special attention, since shadows are hardly visible on black surfaces making it more difficult to see if you're actually cutting in the groove. You end up with stickers with the exact format you can expect on the pieces of Lego, making it very easy to position them very accurately. To apply them I simply tore of a small part of the protecting paper along one of the edges of the sticker. I then positioned the sticker exactly as I wanted and pressed down on said edge, pasting the sticker in place. Then remove the rest of the protecting paper from under the sticker, press down on the sticker starting from the side that was already pasted on and voila!