Madoca 1977

Some more pictures can be seen on the website of Avtoros company.

Thank you, Vladimir! It was one of the most memorable day in my life! In the facility of Avtoros, I was completely overwhelmed by the presence of real Shaman. Massive tires, working suspension, aggressive front face, crab mode... and especially eight-wheel drifting. I've never seen before! It was quite a meeting. Red one is one of my original Lego Shaman brought from Japan. Blue one was built by rm8. He brought it from his hometown.

1: 10 20: 6 11: 4 16: 3 30: 2 6: 1 Because I am a complete novice builder in terms of using pneumatics, all entries amazed me like a magic! So it was very hard to decide which one is better than the others.

I feel sad. Very sad. This is the first and most unpleasant experience in my Lego life. I am sorry for the company Avtoros. Though I will NEVER EVER collaborate with shameless Lepin thieves, some people may think that I sold the name of Shaman for easy and dirty money. Judging from the picture of the box, it seems they didn't copy the streeing system. That means simply they didn't understand what is essential for this MOC.

I'm ready!

Thank you, Vladimir! :laugh: You know my name... 1977 will return!

I just finished instructions! https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipOubbtqz54gE0MzuDSW9iBGGGT1IUw1bk-mrgXPbBv1tTQMxpvhJTie6STyHLTpOw?key=ODFLS3BjeUZqanpKb0NnZFJNWi1odndEajBLd2JB Soon it will be available at Rebrickable. I won't make instructions for two XL version. Because it was slower and less reliable than four L version.

Sorry for being late! Building instructions will be finished in a few days. I've taken more than 400 pictures for making photo sequence. This one is for step 167.

Thank you, Vladimir! The situation is already unexpectedly wonderful! I am looking forward to it. #1, Because I can't recall precise building process without seeing complete model.#2, The improvement increased the speed, and decreased the torque. It reduced the damage to bevel gears. New drivetrain also can transmit the power to wheels more efficiently. Each L motor drives a pair of wheels. Even when one pair become overloaded, other pairs of wheels can keep rotating. So they can adapt to difficult terrains. The ultimate example of this case is Zblj's .

Making instructions is still work in progress... Before shooting building process, I had to dismantle red version which has two XL motors for propulsion. In final (white) version, four L motors are squeezed into the space of XLs. Length of both chassis are the same. I put all heavy components close to the center of chassis as possible.

I won't know the numbers of parts until finishing instructions. So parts list will be available with full instructions. I've read that tire size of real Shaman is 1200mm. My Lego version uses 81.6mm tires. So it is about 1:14 ~ 1:15 scale model. It was mind-blowingly exciting experience! I really hope car enthusiasts become interested in Lego Technic. I am the one looking forward to watch both new Top Gear and The Grand Tour.

Hello Vladimir,Thank you for watching and sharing my Lego version of Shaman! It is a great honor. I am very very surprised to know what is happening to my new Lego model in this week. When I first saw the video of Shaman, I could not build complete Lego version. Since then, I had kept dreaming to accomplish the project. Now I am very happy and also excited by seeing Lego version posted next to the real Shaman on your website! It is you and your company who ignited my passion for realizing Lego Shaman. I hope that more people will become interested in both Avtoros and Lego on this occasion. Thank you for your invitation. I will send you private message. Madoca

It can't climb 45 degrees without using winch. To protect the drivetrain, I reduced the torque by using L motors instead of XL. Still I heard the sound of bevel gears slipping when shooting last part of the video. You are right. I should have said "roughly" one stud. There is always minimal gap between pinion and rack gear. It causes little play in rack movement. Also the move of steering linkage is limited by surrounding parts. So the rack doesn't move more than one stud in this MOC. I'm not satisfied with the balance of body and fenders. That's because I couldn't make thinner fenders using Technic parts. As a scale model, the body should have wider appearance.

I love these tires, too. Seems they rather suit ATV MOCs than trucks/lorries.The problem was that their width occupies nearly half of chassis space. I had to build whole chassis in 9 stud width. It was hard to put eight motors and steering mechanism together in that space.

Hello everyone! Since TLG released 76023, I had been waiting for affordable Technic set which includes so-called Tumbler Tires. So I jumped at 42050 Drag Racer. I also bought some extra tires separately, then revived old project which had failed three years ago. Avtoros Shaman 8x8 Building instructions: Rebrickable Weight: 2550g - 4x L motor for 8 wheel drive - 2x Servo motor for 8 wheel steering - M motor for switching steering mode (AWS and crab) - M motor for winch - 3x LED for front and rear lights - 2x SBrick powered by 2x 8878 rechargeable battery box - Independent suspension for all wheels - Working steering wheel - Openable hood, doors and roof hatch Back in 2013 As you may know, real Shaman is which can go through almost any kind of terrain. It has three steering modes and can scale 45-degree incline. On top of that it is amphibious. Seeing pictures and videos, I instantly fell in love with it.When I started the project, I was too ambitious to realize all features above. Sadly I could not build even steering mechanism while keeping all wheel drive and independent suspension. So I changed the project to building another 8x8 vehicle. It ended up as my Tatra 813 Trial Truck, but that is another story. Focus on characteristic features Two months ago, I suddenly came up with an idea that enables both normal AWS and crab steering. In the case of four-wheeler, you can do it by switching rotation of second Servo motor for rear axle. But in eight-wheeler like Shaman, you should change turning radius of second and third axle. In normal mode, the steering angle of inner two axles is smaller than outer axles. But in crab mode, all axles should be steered at the same angle. This is the basis of steering idea. I used the way of fixing/moving pivot of steering linkage. A: There are two 7L steering racks connected to 7L beams. Front rack is connected in the middle of beam, rear is one stud backwards. Both ends of beams are connected to steering arms of each axle. B: In normal mode, rear rack is fixed by 12T bevel gear. So the fixed pivot of 7L beam is its 5th pin hole. Which makes front end of beam moves twice as rear end does. That means the steering angle of 1st axle is twice as 2nd axle. C: In switching crab mode, 12T bevel gear moves one stud forward and fix front rack. Fixed pivot is 4th pin hole of beam. Which makes both ends of beams move equally. That means the steering angle of 1st axle is the same as 2nd axle. And there is one more twist. D: I put main steering rack (moved by pinion gear) on one stud forward of 7L beam's front-end (which means 9L beam’s front-end). Seeing from the pivot point, this rack is connected to farther than the point of front steering arms connected. So front steering arms always move slightly shorter than main rack does. When Servo fully turns 90 degrees, pinion gear moves the rack in one stud sideways. Steering arms move less than one stud. This was necessary for keeping CV joint (connected to steering hub) rotate smoothly even when fully steered. Challenge and compromise First of all, this MOC is NOT amphibious. It is too heavy to float. And because of driving motors of low position, chassis is not waterproof at all. So it is not recommended driving it through even shallow water pool. My aim was to achieve decent crawling capability. But I had to lower the bar because there was no room left for portal/planetary hub reduction. Without them, heavy load from 81mm tires directly goes to 12T half bevel gears. First attempt was using two XL motors geared 25:9. I put each motor for left/right side of axle. The result was unsatisfied. Even when climbing over small obstacles, bevel gears often slipped and got damaged. So I replaced them with four L motors geared 3:1. Each one drives a pair of half axles. Thanks to their good speed and smaller torque, new drivetrain proved to be more reliable. Although bevel gears were still slipping a bit, I accepted overall performance. The picture above shows two L motors for driving right side of axles. The power functions switch for changing rotation of rear Servo motor is synchronized with moving steering pivot mechanism. In crab mode, rear 4 wheels steer opposite the same direction as front wheels. As always I used few of non-Technic parts. Big roof tile was used for saving weight, curve slope parts were better choice for filling the gap. LBG axles sticking out the roof are visible indicator for steering mode. They are mechanically connected to switching mechanism. In the video you can see how they work. Instructions available at Rebrickable. Building it in red is possible by using red parts instead of white. I hope you will enjoy building!

Thanks! As you see on the step 90, I used the profile of 42030S 16:9 v2.4. It was not my intention. I first used Joysticks & Sliders v3.2 while testing FJ in my room. But it didn't work when I start shooting the video. Moreover, I couldn't download that profile again. So I had to select another profile which could control four functions properly. The profile for Volvo works fine. You can control FJ like I did in the video. Does anyone know why Joysticks & Sliders doesn't work? Or, is it just a problem of my iPhone?

I have finished instructions. https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipMYFnh0FV07dyYhpXwt-u9GlFty2AMQ7lxWr1-kSJiPKunD7ldlw9E3KfBfPRIXeg?key=SDlIZXdHeVVxbG9aNHBGay1HeExoTjZsXzZSUUFn Soon it will be available at Rebrickable.

Thank you for all your kind words! No ants were stamped in the making of this film! Yes, it will include those options.I came up with better solution for front grill after sharing pictures and video. So upcoming instructions will look like this.

It was hard to put 24T gears into that space. I use pairs of black pins and 63965 from 42050. Since they are thinner than usual connectors, they never touch gears.

Hello everyone! This time I built a modification of rm8's Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40. FJ40 Crawler Weight: 1145g Propulsion: XL motor for 4 wheel drive Steering: Servo motor 2 speed gearbox: M motor Winch: M motor Headlights: PF light Powered by: SBrick and 8878 rechargeable battery box This is my third SBrick model. One SBrick and a rechargeable battery box fit well in the rear space. Unfortunately tumbler tires from 42050 cannot use for front axle. They touch the connectors when steered. So I used normal balloon tires. One XL motor has enough power to climb the slope of over 35 degrees even in high gear (4.2:1). It can climb much steeper slope in low gear (12.6:1) but less-grippy balloon tires would start slipping. You can see that situation in the second half of the video. Building process was not straightforward. First, I decided to adopt bigger wheels, working headlights, motorized two speed gearbox and winch. Also I was planning to keep the whole original bodywork as possible. Like rm8’s chassis, it has front and rear live axles with 3 links. In offroad driving, 81.6mm wheels require gear reduction after differentials. My first attempt was using central torque vectoring diff and rear portal axle like my Off Road Pickup. Front axle was not changed. Although it kept the same wheelbase as original, this version was failed. Every time I started driving, 20t bevel gear and diff disengaged. Second plan was using front and rear portal axle. I tried to make the wheelbase as short as possible. It became five studs longer than the original. So I needed slightly longer body. Building whole chassis was the most difficult. The problem was how to minimize the mechanism of motorized gearbox. I used new driving ring and red clutch gears. I felt that they were stronger elements than old version and they could handle more torque. Although 2 speed gearbox was simple, I had to hide the whole mechanism under the seats. I eventually squeezed a mini linear actuator into the left of gearbox. Changing gears is not fast, but it's easy to adjust lever in neutral position in case of using winch. The winch mechanism is the same as the original. It is powerful enough to help climbing steep hills. I have to say that rm8 had achieved perfect weight distribution. I recognized it when I was attempting to build various versions of chassis which had different motor locations. So in my final version, all PF elements are in nearly the same position as original. The bodywork needed some minor changes due to the new chassis and my parts assortment. In original “face”, it was impossible to put LEDs into behind the headlights and shine trans-clear parts. Moreover, Round tile 2x2 trans-clear seems not to be the official parts. My alternative was built out of available parts. I know the original looks far better and hard to change. But it was worth for me to find another solution. Original FJ40 is modular building. It has various options like doors, roof and snorkel. Since my MOD became bigger and heavier, I didn't add the roof. (Still, four soft shock absorbers are slightly compressed when it stands stationary.) Instead, I built detachable doors in two versions. Building instructions: http://rebrickable.com/mocs/Madoca1977/fj40-crawler I hope you like it!

In my case, I always build physically. It helps to realize the MOC works properly under the real condition of gravity influence. I think that means a lot to Technic models. Another reason is just I'm not good at handling digital files.

When I was shooting the video, batteries never cut out the power. Maybe because of low temperature? Actually DBG part slightly touches tire when fully steered. As you see in the video I tested driving several times but it did not affect the speed. Probably the play of steering hub released the friction. After dismantled the car I checked parts and tires to see whether they have got damaged or not. There was no difference before/after driving.

This is definitely the best Technic Supercar! Comparing to your first attempt, it looks far better especially in side view. I guess using panels instead of beams makes the weight lighter even though you expanded the scale. Is there any mod/improvements on its drivetrain? Judging by undercar view, it looks the same as previous version.

Thanks for sharing beautiful pictures! Seeing your two motorized supercars, I noticed that my ICARUS is shorter than BMW. Main reason is that I made rear overhang minimized. Its length : width is 2:1. More compact, lighter, and having less horsepower (4 L motors). That theory is more like Alfa 4C or Lotus lightweight sports cars rather than McLaren P1. Now I'm very curious how it looks among your supercar collection!

Thank you, Blakbird! Your rendering looks better than actual one on my shelf! Rear spoiler should lean backwards. I think you have connected LBG #3 connectors in the opposite direction. (from instruction page 160 to 162)