HorcikDesigns

Curved gear rack with this orientation of teeth? Sounds like some unorthodox (and unorthogonal) teeth geometries were used to make it work. The train will then need precise positioning while going on that curve, which will probably add some stress and friction... Looking forward to see how the gear wheels meshes with it under different conditions and loads.

Good job!

@Krzychups The wierd hole is previous version of coupling with the output shaft. It had to transfer the torque (thus not circle), and help with centering and alignment of cross axle inside the output shaft. Before releasing the file (but after photo session) I realized that square hole will serve this purpose much better. And good job with the car! Do I see right the in-wheel motors?

Yes, it is designed to take up only 32mm (4L) of space.

@everybrickasculpture. Wow, thanks. :D @gyenesvi@gyenesvi yes, keeping the ground clearance was my intention to improve from the previous model. Well, the gears are still plastic, and they can be easily re-printed when needed. After that transmission gearbox I have planetary hibs in wheels, so that makes addotional reduction. Originally I have used 1000KV motor, then tried it with 2000KV which seems OK. I would like to keep the RPMs as low as possible to minimise the wear of the parts. Of course, there is axlehole inside the output. However, there is round hole on the end to allow new CV joints to be inserted flush with the pinhole matrix.

Hello Brushless motor fans, I am back with new 3D printed accessory for our MOCs. This time it is compact 33:304 (approx. 1:9) gear ratio gearbox. Files available for free download: https://makerworld.com/en/models/1908460-gearbox-for-custom-motor-for-brick-models#profileId-2046273 It was designed as evolution of my previous motor-to-bricks adaptor, so they use similar parts. I also tried to make it very compact with good variety of attachment points Originally it was supposed to allow gear shifting, but it seemed as too complicated for now. In future I would like to make more versions with different gear ratios. This one is very slow. It uses module 0.8 and 1 gear teeth, so you can use standard 20t LEGO wheel and some pin connectors as output instead of the printed parts, if needed. Questions? Ideas for improvement?

Nice idea to make boxes for the components! Can they be snapped onto studs?

I doubt they use Formlabs Fuse for this task. There are many more industry-focused machines out there. Do not forget the cleaning of the parts that would take some time and cost too.

Well, you deserved this for one of the best and most complex review content these days. Well done!

Do we have more information about the material and technology that was used for printing the small locomotive? It looks like SLS (sintered powder) which would allow for large quantity of pieces.

Good job!

Not to discourage you, but using worm gear in offrad car at such speeds with plastic parts is great DIY project to learn basics of friction welding (buggy motor is enough to do this). I would recommend to find a different way to reduce the speed, or find somebody in your area with 3d printer.

Nice! Does the gearbox withstand high RPM of the brushless motor well?

Hello, can you send me link to that bearings? I might find the file and try to make a new version of the file. ;) By the way, awesone MOC you got there, its full of inspiration and nice technical solutions.

Well, we all feel the urge to at leat once in a lifetime build the model of our real life ride of choice. Now my time has come to join this club (or send a very polite application request :D) Well, here it is, full in its slowly rusting glory. But still work It is being built for the next LTRC event (racing with midscale cars), where optional theme is "ordinary car". Hence the number 8 on the side. It use two L motors, RWD (I still investigate ways to change for FWD), geekservo (I also plan to swap it, at least for release version), very hollow interior ehich will be packed with seats and dashboard. Which version of the front light do you like more? Left or right? And what about rear lights? Are they OK, or should they be modeled like the front ones? Keep in mind itis still a WIP and it is being built as racecar for now, so model team style was not a way to go in order to save some weight. I am xurious to hear your suggestions how to improve the design. (it is built from memory, no blueprint was used so far - I know, it would greatly improve the overal dimensions.)

@Krzychups Wow, nice to see my diff housings in action (hope I am not wrong). Do you have the version with ball bearings and diff lock, or without? Do you use sone lubricant in them?

Wow, I like it (especially the way the two machines communicate with eaxh other). How does the stepper motor connects to the planetary gearbox? Can the HUB withstand the load well? Looking forward to next progress

Depends on drivetrain between this motor pack (I would not call it engine) and wheels, desired speed and size of the vehicle and wheels you would like to use. But with the buggy tires (also from F150 Raptor set) you can build quite capable and fast offroader, if the vehicle is as simple and light as possible and has efficient drivetrain.

This is IMHO the best midscale car so far. It has some flaws (looking at you, rear lights and wobbly side doors), but it is packed with interesting geometry and surprising connections - something similar to Speed Champions sets. Half of the car is built with 0.5 stud offset! And there are some exciting new parts. And one followup to the yellow pin in nose comment - it is used intentionally due to tolerances, and I think we probably will say goodbye to LBG frictionless pins in the near future.

Well, I like this print-in-place approach very much. Good job!

That is much better way. :D I had no vise at home so I did it the "adrenaline way" :D

@Variteck I did it this way (maybe not the only one, and definitely not the sfe one) - loosen the set screw visible in the last picture with according allen key (inbus), then with pliers carefully remove the clip (make sure it des not go anywhere where you can not find it, then push the rotor from the stator. If the metal shaft can be removed with bare hands, do so, if not, I used electric screwdriver/drill. Be careful and act on your own responsibility. secure the metl axle in the drill head, make sure you loosened (or removed to safe place) the set screw, fix the motor rotor somewhere (recommended in vise, hands were enough for me), and carefully and slowly (really really slow) rotate the electric screwdriver. the shaft should slowly get free while rotating. Remember not to push it all way out, only the necessary distance in the direction you need. The friction in the hole is your friend, you will need it in the future. If doing by hands, I recommend using some technical gloves, or at least check that the motor housing has no sharp edges or burrs that could hurt you. After moving the axle to your liking, tighten back the set screw - You can before the procedure with the drill make some flat spot with grinder or file. I have not done that and the motor works fine.

Instead of strict animal themed contest, biomechanics/"build like the Nature" sound much better to me. ;)

By the way, have somebody already spotted the 5L "comma-shaped" panel above the front bumper? Edit: Already have, one page before. Sorry for spam.

4.8mm is too small IMHO. I design holes up to 5mm, and some of them are still too tight. Depends on orientation and position during print, stringing, oozing, supports placement, part warping and seam position. And printer accuracy. Material properties put aside, heat shrinkage and water absorbtion make whole new level of mess in part accuracy. For axle holes is also very important the radius in corners near the intersection of the cross segments. 0.5mm is according my experience good choice for 0.4mm nozzle.