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Found 418 results

  1. This dragon was designed as a prototype biological-machine hybrid for scouting out in space for objects of unfamiliar origin in Blacktron 3 territory. It used a recently-discovered dead race of space dragons' DNA in combination with robotic technology to quickly achieve this goal. As the DNA was degraded significantly, and the robotic tech tried and tested, it was felt to combine the two would provide a failsafe option in case a suddenly aware cyber-being became a reality: a over-ride of the nervous system by a massive electrical pulse, which would kill it dead by it's own power source. (basically, a kill switch) This code would be given by a super-secure signal delivered via hyperspace to wherever the creature was to kill it in three minutes of becoming aware. (This would be considered a mercy killing by Blacktron standards, as the being in question would be confused and in pain from cyber implants and lack of knowledge of this time / place after it's race had been wiped out.) The first 13 prototype cyber-beings developed were deemed unworthy of being used for various reasons, such as overloading of fusion core upon primary boot-up. The 14th version, called DRAG-00N (after going alphabetically through the first 13 letters before arriving at prototype "N", plus the two number spaces for possible future firmware upgrades.) was finally approved for further tests by Blacktron High Command three Earth-years (and millions of stud-credits spent) after starting the project. The entire BT3 high command wanted to be there in person upon full boot-up, but decided not to, as it was bad luck in there eyes to be there in person after so much failure. Hologram representation would have to suffice. It was a very smart move, considering what happened next. The DRAG-00N, upon final boot-up, became aware within seconds, and, being so firmly entrenched with it's technological implants, deleted the fail safe from it's memory banks in the first minute, before it could even be sent out by the high command. While the creature killed everyone in a 12 mile radius of the laboratory where it was built / born, (It was still too unsteady to kill everyone by flying around yet.) the high command scrambled to get it's codes secured. They had realized the being would slice communication channels to anticipate any strikes against it... Needless to say, they failed to do that quickly enough, and in addition, it armed the planet's missiles and reactor core against any intruder coming near the planet for as long as time still marched forward or the planet's system existed. It then left the system it was born in, but scorched everything living on that sorry rock before doing so. It flew to the next system over, which happened to be controlled by the Unitron Security League and destroyed several worlds for everything resembling life above cockroaches. (By this point, the Blacktron Commanders had been informing anyone who would listen about it's rouge robot, and trying to stop retaliatory attacks against THEM for something they technically had no control over.) It decimated everything in it's path to the galactic core, leveling worlds and entire systems in it's wake using it's seemingly-endless Atomic fire breath. The only thing that was thought of to give ALL systems regardless of political orientation a fighting chance of mounting a galactic resistance to their new menace, was a lone, very old Astro-bot, numbered 33 and owned by Classic Space Command. Thirty-three was awakened, and sent on an intercept path, using all possible hyper-speed to reach the Galaxy Core all in 10 minutes. There, it met it's opponent in the field of battle, above the black hole that sits smack dab in the Galactic Core's very heart. The dragon stuck first, and managed to tear off a panel on the front of ol' 33. The robot managed to get in some good shots with it's laser-eyes, before the dragon starting to use it's atomic breath at close range. This had a devastating effect on 33's weapons circuitry, and almost killed the robot on the spot. Thankfully, backup arrived in the form of several fleets of varying allegiance, all bonded by the goal of killing DRAG-00N. It was a fierce battle, with several capital ships destroyed or made immobile. One Spyruis cyber-slicer frigate was thrown into the black hole itself for trying to hack the cyborg's implants by said cyborg. Eventually, a hail of fire finished off what 33 had started: the beast died with a final act of vengeance on it's attackers: it initiated the meltdown countdown of it's fusion core, which would kill everyone in the vicinity, including the assembled fleets of most of the galaxy's forces. The Astro-bot then threw the burning hulk into the black hole, which then took the brunt of the explosion when it finally died. Astro-bot 33 went on to be fixed up and completely overhauled, but not before the assembled fleets gave there unanimous congratulations to the giant robot in the form of a treaty to mark the day, the 3rd of May here on Earth, as "Galactic Robo-Savior" day. Blacktron command even commented, saying it would destroy all materials within the dead planet where the cyborg was born concerning said creature, once it was deemed possible to do so... rumor speculates, however, that some extra copies of parts of the being's cyber-mainframe were removed from the lab it was born in before final boot-up for placement with "top scientific personnel" for future study. No one alive today knows the whole story on that... or do they? NOTES: Yes, this model is build-able, and it will be built soon. The model is missing parts, I know, it just doesn't have them in LDD. Also, the robot is missing some panels, as they don't fit in LDD... which won't matter when it is build in real life. Speaking of the bot, it's a Classic Space version of Build Better Bricks' Iron Giant with the head of the previous @hachiroku version of the model's head added on. (consider it a mashup of the two Iron Giant models) you can see more screenshots of the 'bot here at this thread for all my Classic Space models. Any thoughts?
  2. I had the Ninjago jungle dragon but found it too cutesy and canine, and didn't like the gaping wings. I wanted a creature that was more ferocious looking and more lizard-like. So I modded the giant war lizard pictured below. Apart from eight gold horn pieces (see picture), a light bley 2 x 6 plate and a light bley 1 x 4 plate, all the parts came from the set. In that sense, it's a re-build, not just a mod. Structurally, it's unchanged from the original jungle dragon. Cosmetically though, it's more different than appears at first sight. The minifigures also used parts from outside the set including some third party parts, but the focus here is the giant war lizard. Although I like some Ninjago builds and minifigures, I'm not particularly invested in the franchise and don't consider any of my display collection to be Ninjago, hence this post being in Historic Themes, not Action and Adventure. Questions? Comments? Concern for the crazy shaman who summoned this beast?
  3. Hello together, after the ulysses space probe was released, i wanted to build my own version. Forr me personallyl, the ulysseus spacecraft lacked details, a lot of things were simply left out. The MOC was only made using Bricklink Stud.io, free instructions can be found here: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-74025/JBs Brick Creations/ulysses-space-probe-more-detailed/#details So here is my version of the famous space probe, I hope you enjoy it. Greetings Jakob
  4. Robert8

    Ideas for a CMFs

    Hello everyone! Welcome to this thread Here you'll find my wishlist for CMFs, which I illustrate with drawings. I'm not a professional designer but an amateur and I do this just for fun. The CMF theme is one of my favorite LEGO themes ever and collecting Minifigures is one of my favorite hobbies. I'm always looking forward to get some feedback which helps me to improve. SERIES A SERIES B SERIES C SERIES D SERIES E SERIES F SERIES G SERIES H SERIES I SERIES J SERIES K SERIES L SERIES M SERIES N SERIES Ñ SERIES O SERIES P SERIES Q ADVENT CALENDAR SERIES R SERIES S SPOOKY CALENDAR ADVENT CALENDAR 2 SERIES T SERIES U SERIES V SERIES W SERIES X --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- So, here is the first wave. Let's call it SERIES A. Hope you'll like it Enjoy exciting, new adventures with Series A of the Minifigures collectibles. This series includes the Gymnast, the Giraffe Suit Guy, the Troll, the Architect, the Southern Businessman, the Crossing Guard, the Town Crier, the Lifesaver Guy, the Piper, the Mime Girl, the Galactic Traveler, the Skydiver Girl, the Robotics Engineer, the Harpist, the Puppeteer and the Organ Grinder. Inside each ‘mystery’ bag you’ll find a minifigure with one or more accessories, plus a display plate and a collector’s leaflet 1. Gymnast Part assorment: New hula hoop piece, the S3 Sumo Wrestler hairpiece, regular head, torso and legs. 2. Town Crier Part assorment: New combo hairpiece: tricorn hat + ponytail, a new handbell, regular head, torso and legs. 3. Crossing Guard Part assorment: The Series 9 Policeman hat recolored in black, a 4L bar, a 2x2 octagonal tile with a clip, regular head, torso and legs. 4. Harpist Part assorment: New harp piece. Padme Amidala's bun hairpiece, regular head, torso and slope 5. Galactic Traveler Part assorment: New molded head: head + bubble combo, ray gun piece, 1x1 translucent stud, regular torso and legs 6. Southern Businessman Part assorment: New 10 gallon hat piece, 2 revolvers, the mustache piece, regular head, torso and legs 7. Mime Girl Part assorment: New hairpiece: beret + hair combo, regular head, torso and legs 8. Troll Part assorment: New molded head, club piece, regular torso and short legs 9. Lifesaver Guy Part assorment: New duck lifesaver piece, Poe Dameron hairpiece, flippers, regular head, torso, and legs 10. Puppeteer Part assorment: New Classic King puppet, new Jester puppet, top hat. Alfred's coattails cloth piece. Regular head, torso, and legs 11. Skydiver Girl Part assorment: S10 Skydiver helmet, parachute pack neckpiece, regular head, torso, and legs 12. Architect Part assorment: Gail the Construction Worker hairpiece recolored, suitcase piece, 2x4 tile, regular head, torso, and legs 13. Giraffe Suit Guy Part assorment: New giraffe mask, new giraffe tail, regular head, torso, and legs 14. Organ Grinder Part assorment: New music box neckpiece. Beret, classic monkey, regular head, torso, and legs 15. Piper Part assorment: Hunter's hat in dark blue, large feather, mouse, short cape, 3L bar, regular head, torso, and legs 16. Robotics Engineer Part assorment: Emmet's hard hat piece recolored, 1x1 round tile (x2), walkie talkie piece, S16 Babysitter's baby recolored, regular head, torso, and legs. And an extra head for the robot with red eyes Extra pic! The little robot's alternate head: And here is the group pic! The color is lavender, of course! This Series A would introduce 14 new moulds: hula ring, harp, duck lifesaver, beret+hair piece, music box, Classic King puppet, Jester puppet, ten gallon hat, tricorn hat+hair, handbell, Troll molded head, Galactic Traveler molded head, giraffe mask and tail Leaflet: Box distribution (60 minifigures) So, that's it for now. I expect to post more of these later this year SERIES B
  5. Hello everybody! This is my version of the 75055 Lego Star Destroyer. SD_1, on Flickr I know there are many fantastic models from the Imperial Star Destroyers in this forum, such as Raskolnikov's ISD Aggressor. Unfortunately I do not have the space (and money) for such a big model. My goal was to make this ship a little bigger and keep the playability of the set. So I enlarge the original version of the size of the Lego Imperial Star Destroyer 6211 from 2006. The construction is similar to the original construction of 75055. You can just put it on the table and open the panel easily. I mainly used parts from the set 75190. Due to the weight I had to stiffen the underbody with long technic bricks and wedge plates. SD_2, on Flickr SD_3, on Flickr SD_4, on Flickr SD_5, on Flickr SD_6, on Flickr My model will also feature an interior. More pics will follow soon. What do you think about that? MAG85
  6. Hey everyone, you must check out the share your trucks forum for many talented eurobricker’s inspirational truck designs! But this topic is for those who have made their own custom trailers and mods that they are proud of! I will start first Here is my trailer for my custom Semitruck. I am currently designing a nice off-road capable caravan which I hope some of you would like to see, I am almost finished and I will post it here when I am done.
  7. 20feet

    Modified TIE Fighter MOC

    I've made a lot of special modifications myself. Hi, this is my first real post here. Let me know what I'm doing wrong! I built @Jerac's TIE Fighter a couple years ago, and I've been tinkering with it off and on ever since. This was the first MOC I bought and built, and I remain very impressed by the strength, elegance, and ingenuity of the design. I've seen a lot of TIE MOCs since, and Jerac's is probably still my favourite. I wanted to say that clearly at the start, before getting into the nit-picking! Here's what I changed: Wing Gaps I always found the holes in the wings very distracting. They're easy enough to fill with 1x4 tiles, if you remove a plate from the base of the horizontal spokes. The result not only looks better, but holds the spokes in place more securely. I added 1x1 plates to the top and bottom corners to fill another gap. Canopy/Gun Mount I was also dissatisfied with the canopy/guns/controls assembly, which is a precarious stack of rods and clips. It's fiddly and fragile, and leaves extraneous T-pieces sticking out the front. Why did Jerac build it this way? I think because the cockpit's top, front and bottom dishes wrap around the quarter domes and they need to fit snugly to approximate a sphere, so the space available to mount the canopy and guns is incredibly tight. My solution was to mount the canopy on old robot arms. They're the right length, and they have a squared off neck where I've attached the gun mounts, which helps hold the guns in position (at least on 1 axis). Top Hatch Mount The top hatch in Jerac's model sits noticeably to the rear of centre. It's a bit tricky to fix because the hatch mount connects to the top of the central hexagon, which also needs to be positioned precisely. I had to rework my initial solution when I redid the rear - more on that below. Wing Construction I love Jerac's smooth stacked-brick wings, but they give the impression of subtle stripes running parallel to the wings edges, like concentric hexagons, whereas the real TIEs have prominent ridges perpendicular to the edges. It occurred to me that I could suggest these by using tall 1x1 bricks instead of long bricks. Stacked 1x1s do not make a strong wall, but because the hub/spokes/rim design is so secure, the finished wings are plenty solid. The main drawback of this design is that light can shine through the tall seams when you look straight on, lessening the sense of solidity. But I find the overall effect delightful. I used 1x8 tiles for all the spokes, to clear some extraneous studs off the wings. Interior I spent a lot of time trying to mimic the cockpit's triangular panels in some way, but couldn't find a solution at this scale. So I went for a looser interpretation, inspired by the beautiful Inthert version and Jerac's TIE Defender. The interior space in this model is very limited (even the Defender has an extra stud of depth) but I was able to include a lot of detail. I also made space for the newer, oversized TIE pilot helmets. I borrowed the control design from the Bricks Feeder/Inthert interior. I'm disappointed that LEGO has never printed the TIE Fighter targeting display. I may print my own sticker for that. The top hatch isn't functional, but it does need to swing up for cockpit access, so I added some simple details underneath. The scale is way off, but I like the way the 1x2 grills evoke the skylight pattern on the hatch. Cockpit Side Greebling I wanted to include the little dark grey bow ties on either side of the canopy. This was challenging for a few reasons: They should be centred, which means holding a small piece in the middle of a 2-stud space and minimizing the gaps around it. Everything should be curved to match the quarter domes. I also wanted to accommodate interior detailing in this space. Finally, there's an identical pattern in the rear, around the engines. These areas should look similar in front and back (see below). I'm quite satisfied with this solution: Wing Spars The arms (technically "spars") attaching the cockpit to the wings are full of Lego-unfriendly details: cylinders, thin rings and fins, and the notched plates next to the cockpit that slope in like 4 directions at once. Their diameter is small and they need to be strong. I did my best to imitate the details while sticking with Jerac's sturdy plate-based design. I swapped the 1x4 brackets for 1x2s to clear a couple studs off the front. There are more brackets inside to add strength and attach interior details. I tried a lot of different pieces for the bent T detail next to the wings. Pneumatic t-pieces seemed to best capture the shape. I'm dissatisfied with basically every part of these arms, but I haven't seen other versions at this scale that I prefer. Most of the key details are at least present, although crudely represented. Rear The central rear ring is the last piece of the original that I altered (so far). I'd done earlier revisions of the engines and hatch mount that retained the quarter ring tiles. I appreciate their smoothness even though they're too flat, and sink the central hexagon behind a circular cutout. I finally noticed that the outer diameter of this ring should match the top hatch and front canopy – it should be 5 studs (scaled to the overall model) or 6 (matching the canopy and hatch). That pushed me to build a custom ring with the key features of: 6 stud diameter Outer cone shape Inner inverted cone, and Prominent central hexagon with slightly recessed black interior. Drawbacks: I couldn't find a way to keep the red engine centers with this design I also couldn't include the bump on the top of the cone. The top hatch sits ~1mm too far forward (but closer to centre than the original) The outer diameter is 6 studs, but only at the points where the handlebars attach The handlebars aren't angled quite right, so the clips that form the ring are a bit skewed The inner inverted cone is too deep And of course this segmented design is not as smooth as the rest of the model. In spite of all that, I think the shapes are quite accurate for this scale, and I'm satisfied with the result. A Note on Scale The cockpit is about 9 studs tall, including the top hatch and bottom dish. At that scale the front canopy, top hatch and rear cone should all be 5 studs in diameter. It would be interesting to see a TIE MOC scaled up to fit the 6x6 dish – a cockpit diameter of ~11 studs. Conclusion I've changed most of the pieces and the details in this model, without changing much about the structure or general appearance. I'm still tinkering with it. I've got some ideas to rework the wings and spars, but that's quite a big project. Some of these modifications are a matter of taste, but I'm quite pleased with the results. I'm interested to hear others' opinions. Credits In addition to Jerac, I appreciated and drew inspiration from: Inthert and Bricks Feeder: Beautiful interiors Koen Zwanenburg: Clever cockpit side details, more accurate shape of the wing hubs (although I stuck with Jerac's for now) Fuku Saku: Nice front and back cockpit details. The rear cone piece is clean and accurate, but loses the center details. Force of Bricks: Interesting arm details and rear shape. If I do a more thorough redesign I'll likely borrow a lot from this model. Pasq67: Impressive details at a smaller scale. Cereal Eating Builder: Incredible accuracy at a much larger scale. Reference Photos The EFX prop replica seems to be the most accurate model available. This gallery is my main resource. For proportions I referred to this blueprint from the Tie Fighter Owners' Workshop Manual Some pictures of original props here A discussion of TIE Fighter scale
  8. A while ago i bought the Whomping Willow set as an effort to complete my Hogwarts Collection. A lot can be done better and more detailed on this set, but for now i decided to just give the car a little rework. I know the car was designed by Lego for durability and playability but i really didn´t like that odd roof. So i decided to take matters (and bricks) into my own hands and redesign the car: 20210228_172918 20210228_172819 20210228_172853 As you can see, i incorporated a lot of slightly mismatching colors into the car since the one in the movie isn´t exactly brand new...to describe it politely. The car has dings, dents, and spotty paint. I also tried to detail the interior a bit. It still might not fit 4 minifigs, but at least 2 can be seated and some luggage can be put behind the seats...and yes, the back rests can be adjusted. 20210228_163455 As you know, the car gets quite a beating from the Whomping Willow after it crashes into the tree, so i decided to "demolish" it. 20210228_163132 20210228_163005 20210228_162937 I hope you guys like my version. Comments are apprechiated.
  9. ptrg

    76161 UCS Batwing mods

    Hi, first post about doing a mod, but I felt pretty passionate about this one. Having grown up with the "original" Batman films, I loved the UCS Batmobile, and while I also love the lego Batwing, the elongated cockpit really struck me as a bit NQR. I tried various mods on mecabricks, and while the most accurate "shrinkage" (based on the original studio model) of the length of the cockpit would require the removable of (two) of the sections of 1/4 clear wall elements, this would require a full blown redesign of the seat and cockpit to fit it all in the remaining one. I also tried utilizing the new UCS A-wing canopy, but it's width isn't the 8 studs required (6 only), and again, a full redesign would be needed (which is a shame as it is a more accurate shape compared to this sets design) So finally, I settled on removing 2x BOW 1/4 4X4X1 which effectively shortened the length by about 2-3 studs (along with removal of other parts that were between the two cockpit sections). This allowed me to move the front of the canopy backwards 1 stud (more screen accurate) and also move the back "shell" (WALL ELEMENT CONE 3X6X6) forwards - again more screen accurate. To complete the look, I'm planning on printing some back vinyl to make the rear section of the canopy a sloping black area (rather than clear all the way back then a vertical black where the shell starts). The other major change I made was to remove some of the dark grey "detailing" to remain more screen accurate - especially the spoilers. I narrowed them by a stud to take advantage of the void below them created by removing the two LDG 2x6 bricks, which then allowed them to sit much more flush when down (with some detailing underneath 1 stud lower than the rest of the wing area) Instead of writing more, maybe I'll just show what I'm talking about, as it will hopefully make more sense that way. Happy with the overall result. Original model: Original studio model:
  10. Bigdwazda

    AT AT MOD 75288

    So, this is my mod based on the pictures from @Kozikyo86 I have to say that the mods to this set were easy to make and as always the only difficulty was parts. I had to take apart a good number of sets, mainly for smooth tiles. However, In my opinion it was totally worth it. First off, the head, Here i just added some parts to smooth out the jaw and the front end. I also replaced the black window with red, I am not sure why Lego went with black, red looks much more menacing for a robot dog. I also changed the canopy and increased the size as per the mod. Next, the legs, again this follows the moc, this was just a case of adding smooth tile pieces and added a few extra parts to the top of the leg to create a more bulky outline. In addition i added a few plates on the inside of the legs, to bring the depth closer to the technic beams. I tried to bring these totally level but it looked too bulky. I also tried making using 2 stud wide smooth tiles to totally cover the legs, again, this looked too bulky. Next up, the sides of the AT AT. This was an area where plates were in short supply so I had to use what I could find. I followed as closely as I could and made sure that any studs showing looked like they were purposfully placed. I still think the panel over the front leg needs adjusting slightly. I also added some small pieces on the leg joints. These look great from a distance and are easy to remove, i think they add a little extra interest. Bottoms of the legs, I added some smooth quarter pieces on top of the round circles. I also increased the height of these by one extra plate. On the (real) thing these parts are really high. I also echoed some of the detail on the outide of the legs onto the inside sections. All in all, I am very happy with the final result and I think it looks great on display with my other star wars stuff.
  11. What do you do when you love the look of a set (80024), but don't want to start a new theme? Sell the figs and re-theme it! Here are Neo-Classic Adventurers Johnny Thunder, Pippin Reed, and Professor Kilroy rafting and flying in on their new Aero-Nomad balloon. The expedition is to explore the Legendary Flower Fruit Forest, but they're unaware it's the stronghold of the fearsome guardian Tygurah, and his minions. While most are just very minor MODs and minifigure swaps to 80024, there is also MOC remake of the Aero-Nomad (7415) Set. More LEGO - Neo-Classic Adventurers photos, on Flickr
  12. Since I started LEGO Star Wars in 2015, I wanted to own a Tantive IV. The sets from 2001 and 2009 were far too expensive on the secondary market. That's why I was really happy when a new version was announced. There was a lot of discussion about the set. Everyone had a different expectation. I am glad that it has become an improved version of the 10198. Nevertheless, there were a few things that bother me. The biggest criticism for me is the cockpit. I do not like stickers. In a few years they will take off and then the model looks bad. That's why I built it with bricks. The role model was the @Kit Bricksto UCS Tantive - CR-90 Corvette. More improvements: - Removed the stud shooters!!! - Removed the handle - Colour matching - Facing the bottom with inverted bows - Extension gun turrent on the botton - Radar turett mirrored down - Brickbuilt upper wings between conference section und radar tower My next goal is to change the inside of the cockpit, because at the moment, Captain Antilles can’t sit inside. Maybe you have more ideas for improvements. Then like to post here. Here are the pictures. Tantive_IV-01, on Flickr Tantive_IV-02, on Flickr Tantive_IV-03, on Flickr Tantive_IV-04, on Flickr Tantive_IV-05, on Flickr Tantive_IV-06, on Flickr Tantive_IV-07, on Flickr Tantive_IV-08, on Flickr Tantive_IV-09, on Flickr
  13. This is a mod of the Marvel 76173 Spider-man and Ghost Rider vs Carnage set, but since it is Marvel no more - it parks with other Speed Champions cars I have - I placed it in Town sub-forum like other SC style car MOCcers do. The mod includes styling changes that made the car resemble a full-blown (pun intended) 1968 Charger with some extra semi-realistic goodies while maintaining the Speed Champions vibe. Mod includes: adding 1968 tail-lights + front blinkers moving fuel cap to a proper spot and removing the other one adding side exhausts + stereo antenna + side-view mirror on driver's side creating a sleeker, "shotgun" style scoop (still using the stud shooters) and a filled hood adding a suggestion of rear suspension springs + extended and reinforced fuel tank creating a suggestion of an interior with a gear shifter and two gauges + moving the seat and steering wheel one plate higher + moving the rear window one stud back The mod required use of some extra parts, of course. Being a fan of a '68 and knowing that a vast majority of Mopar fans prefer 1969 and 1970 Chargers and that the 1968's representation is way smaller among toys - did you know that Hot Wheels still haven't made a '68 Charger model? it's an outrage! - I knew I was gonna built my own 1968 one day. The marvel set, of course, did a lot of work for me, but still I'm really happy with this mod. I have bought the Marvel 76173 set purely for this purpose; not only was it cheaper than 75983 2018 Dodge Challenger SRT Demon and 1970 Dodge Charger R/T , but it also felt way more versatile platform for mods.
  14. This topic has a lot of photos inside, to make it easier for everyone to see the latest version of my MOD, I have editted this first post to show version 5, 14th Nov 2020. Your feedback is welcome or share your MOD ideas Please! Port View by R Y, on Flickr Bow by R Y, on Flickr Stern Starboard by R Y, on Flickr My Lego collection consisted mainly of SW sets and its MOCs, I was tempted to get the 21322 Barracuda Bay when it came out in April but decided to save up for the UCS A-Wing, which I still haven’t got around to build yet, I have been modify the 75175 A-wing. A-Wing Mod by R Y, on Flickr I wasn’t too keen on the 31109 Creator Pirate Ship when I first saw its photos, especially the brick-built sails. During the Queen’s Birthday long weekend, I was reading posts on OZLUG of buying multiple sets to make it a bigger ship; that grabbed my attention as I mod all Lego sets where possible after I figured out Bricklink. However, at RRP of $160 AUD each, I might as well just buy the 21322 for $300 AUD; then again thanks to OZLUG, I realised that they are $119 at Kmart, meaning $238 worth of investment, no brainer! I quickly read up on reviews from Brickset and Brother’s Brick, how the completely brick-built design is its selling point, instead of using specialized boat hull pieces. My local Kmart had no stock, so I went to the next nearest one, nothing on the shelves again and a store girl told me all they have is already on the shelfs even though the online stock check shows limited availability. Disappointed, I was about the leave the store empty handed before I talked past the customer service counter, there was only one person in line so I decided to wait and check. The service girl was very helpful and checked the stock room for me, it turned out they do have three at the back, which I gladly picked up two; she told me apparently people try to steal Lego all the time, so they keep the good stuff at the back. I had to wait for my baby to settle and sleep before started building that night. As the original model is built in 3 sections: bow with forecastle, waist, stern with captain’s cabin; I decided to build 2 x waists sections and have 3 masts. I always build repetition sections step by step simultaneously instead of finishing one section and start another, personally I find this method quicker. My aim is to stick to the original Lego design and finish the hull asap, redesign the masts into foremast, mainmast and mizzen mast, and use the remaining pieces to touch up and make the 2 waists transition smoothly. 31109 Long Side View by R Y, on Flickr I wanted to rig the ship from the bowsprit to the stern flagpole, I had to move the “Plate Round 2 x 2 with Pin Hole and 4 Arms Up” to the mainmast beneath the lookout so the arms are equal distance to the diagonal spars from the foremast and mizzen mast. I spent more time on the foremast and rigging than any other sections. I tried a few different arrangements before settled down on the current layout, where the rigging goes down to the bowsprit from the upside-down diagonal spar. I used light bluish grey Technic Bush instead of the yellow ones provided. The hose piece is still slightly short and the bowsprit is pulled upwards, but the jib sail hides most of it. Overall, I was happy that I achieved my goal. Masts and Rigging by R Y, on Flickr I added a 1 x 2 red brown plate to each of the gun port openings so they are not too close to the waterline, I initially wanted to add 2 pieces per opening, but they were too high and affected the guns inside. You can tell where each of the section ends with the breaks from the 3027 6 x 16 plate in dark tan secured with 2 x 2 blue round tiles. I made sure the 1 x 4 special plates overlap the gap to secure the sections. The alternating red and light orange strip along the deck worked out perfectly, I was initially worried that I may get a double up of same coloured plates with my MOD. Joins of the Sections by R Y, on Flickr As Lego only gives half the number of guns compare to the gun ports, having 2 sets gives me 4 guns to fill up the front gun deck, squeezed 2 minifigs inside with torches. Gun Deck with Baboon by R Y, on Flickr I plated over the opening next to the gangways on the 2nd waist, to make it look like a quarterdeck, but not really raised due to the limitation of my skills in the mod. I really like the brick-built rowing boat from the alternative Skull Island bult, I made it longer using 2 x 2 slopes at the stern and made other changes as certain parts were already used in the main ship built. I also built a boat rack with 4 cheese slopes and some plates. The rowing boat fills up on the empty quarterdeck perfectly, I really like how it turned out. Rowing Boat by R Y, on Flickr With the 2 sets of 3 human minifigs, I swapped around their outfits, brought in a pair of black legs to swap out the peg leg. Now I have 6 different minifigs, I left out the epaulette for the officer to differentiate him from the captain. a9 by R Y, on Flickr a8 by R Y, on Flickr I built the red/green parrot and blue seagull according to the instructions, again had to use some different pieces due to availability. Lastly, I added the pet baboon hanging off the shroud, it’s a really fun build where its arms and waist are twistable to get a good pose. Baboon by R Y, on Flickr I really liked how this MOD turned out, this is probably the cheapest and easiest way to get a Lego 8-gun full-rigged-ship (three or more masts), even the 21322 only has only two masts. It’s around 58cm long from the tip of the bowsprit to the edge of stern flag, around 36cm tall from the tip of mainmast to the bottom of the hull, 19cm wide at the horizontal spars. With the elongated waist, it makes the forecastle and poop deck seem small in comparison, a bit out of proportion to be honest; but at this stage, I don’t have the skills to design and make them bigger. Side Front View by R Y, on Flickr Top Front View by R Y, on Flickr Back View by R Y, on Flickr
  15. Hello all, With the possible release of lego technic mercedes Zetros, I decided to rebuild my Technic unimog U400 into an unimog U4023. I could do this thanks to the recently aquired Claas Tractor Tyres and the abundant parts of the Liebherr - I find the Liebherr a fantastic set for parts - I modified the cab and I will integrate 2 control+ L motors and 1 XL control+ motor for drive. First I started with the cab, the chassis I'll do next The cab is build on the same base of the U400 cab The cab is not 100% true to the original, lack of various grilles, the front wheel arches are not integrated in the cabin, the air intake etc, but I find it a great start if i can say so myself. The cab features lockable doors Here is a foto of the cab on the original U400 unimog chassis with Claas Tyres. So the next project is to rebuild the chassis with the control+ motors and I also plan to rebuild the front bumper to match the U4023 bumper. Hope you liked it so far
  16. As a bike lover, I'm so glad that LEGO had released such a beauty beast - Ducati Panigale V4 R. But there are a lot of missing parts, so I'd added the following improvements:- brake levers- front fender/mudguard, but the movement of the forks will be limited- brake calipers- front turn signal lights- solid fuel tank- remove the 2 rubber bands, without loosing their functions- retractable kickstand- move the rear fender closer to the wheel The MOD is posted on rebrickable at https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-62667/ Thanks for watching.
  17. Hello everyone, 40448 is a pretty nice set, but I don't like it doesn't have functional doors. So I modified it to have a functional hood, doors, and trunk. Now the minifigures can get back the surfing board to surfing. The instruction is listed in my video. Welcome to take a look :)
  18. My model of Lambda-class Imperial Shuttle was created from scratch and it is based on the construction solutions of the 75094 set. First it was created in LDD and later, after ordering the bricks, I made a number of significant adjustments. The biggest challenge was to keep the proportions as decent as possible, which, apart from the limitations resulting from the use of the 75094 skeleton, does not seem to me to be a simple thing on this scale. Among other things, for this reason, I finally gave up the opened interior (on which I did not particularly care about). Wherever possible, I tried to reproduce or refer to the details of the original. You may attach the landing gear but my model will always be presented on the stand. It is very stable and consists of about 1600 parts and therefore roughly over 600 more than the progenitor. I have designed the wings from the beginning in SNOT. The body is two studs longer, and in a large part, is a completely different construction than 75094. The wings are better embedded in it and they are less swaying, which is important because they are heavier. The fin is also proportionally extended by two studs and embedded somewhat differently. I have managed to slim down the cockpit and get a minimal nose down reduction in relation to the bottom, keeping the place for the stressed Han Solo. In this scale in flying mode, it matches the height of the UCS Slave I and it is the optimal scale for this model for me. 10212 UCS in flight position (and this is the only way I imagine presenting it) is monstrously huge - I mainly mean the height. I think that my model next to the UCS would not be too ashamed. You will find more photos in my flicker album here: https://flic.kr/s/aHskvtke2v Lambda-class Imperial Shuttle by Barney Markowski, on Flickr Lambda-class Imperial Shuttle by Barney Markowski, on Flickr Lambda-class Imperial Shuttle by Barney Markowski, on Flickr Lambda-class Imperial Shuttle by Barney Markowski, on Flickr Lambda-class Imperial Shuttle by Barney Markowski, on Flickr Lambda-class Imperial Shuttle by Barney Markowski, on Flickr Lambda-class Imperial Shuttle by Barney Markowski, on Flickr Lambda-class Imperial Shuttle by Barney Markowski, on Flickr Lambda-class Imperial Shuttle by Barney Markowski, on Flickr Lambda-class Imperial Shuttle by Barney Markowski, on Flickr
  19. The upcoming 42082 Rough terrain crane has inspired a whole list of possible improvements because I believe that at this scale some cool functions could/should be modeled (in random order): Two stage outriggers, preferably PF controlled Multiple steering modes (minimal 2: 4WS and front wheel steering) Pendular front axle Luffing jib, folding away against the boom Second winch for secondary hook Replace LA’s which lift the boom with an actuator with a longer stroke for bigger range in the boom angle Cosmetic changes to cabin, engine cover and upper structure to resemble real cranes more like Grove or Terex Some of these are probably overly ambitious and I’m not claiming to be able build all these MODs in one single model, but I am curious to see how far I can take this. My first step is to take a look at possible two stage outriggers. So far I’m tinkering in LDD to find mechanisms for the horizontal stage which are rigid enough to support the Crane and compact enough to fit on both ends of the 42082. I think it must be possible to fit the outriggers in a module measuring 5x7x23 studs. The ultimate goal would be to lift the crane from its wheels, but considering the size and weight of the 42082, I would be happy if the outriggers can simply provide actual support. Progress so far:
  20. I got my 42123 a month or so ago and while it's a very awesome set out of the boy I knew I had to give it a proper differential. Here's how I did it in LDD: In order to preserve the original engine position the differential is moved back one stud: A pair of 8 tooth gears transfer the power from wheels to the differential: And while I was at it, I also made the steering work using 8 and 24 tooth gears: I plan to make a detailed HOW:TO video tomorrow, so stay tuned. Meanwhile you can download the LDD here: https://bricksafe.com/files/Zblj/42123-differential-and-working-steering-wheel-mod/42123 Differential and Working Steering Wheel MOD.lxf
  21. Cumulonimbus

    [MOD] My digital City vehicles

    Hi all. Until recently I resided only at the EB Technic subforum. For several reasons (which I won’t elaborate here) I’m taking a break from Technic. Instead I found joy in building City vehicles in LDD and improving them as I like. My main motivation is the nostalgia for the times I had a Lego city and some of the vehicle I had a fascination for as a kid. Small disclaimer: This all just for fun, I have no plans for building any of the following vehicles with real bricks. I would like to kick things of with the first series of vehicles: some utility trucks inspired by the cherry picker in the upcoming 60306 Shopping Street set. l liked the proportions, colors and general look of the original, but missed some play value. So I tweaked the nose, modified the cherry picker for bigger range, added outriggers and some tool storage. This is the result, next to its source of inspiration: The ball got rolling and I built two version of this vehicle, a contractor truck towing an air compressor and one featuring a snowplow. When the cherry picker and the contractor are at work it looks something like this: I hope you like them, I'm currently working on another series of vehicles
  22. Decided to finally post all my Jedi Interceptor ETA-2 mods. All were made from either Set 75135, but most were made from set 75281. All the stickers you see were created by me using photoshop.
  23. Hello! Here I want to present you my MOD from the Lego 75318 The Child set. More photos on Flickr album
  24. Richpepperell

    Slave 1 8097 [MOD]

    I love the UCS Slave 1, it has been my favourite OT ship since I owned the Kenner 3.75" version back in the early 80s. Unfortunately, my wallet doesn't love the price and with the amount of other Star Wars sets being released, it's not on the horizon. I'm not sure if the UCS is genuine minifigure scale or not (I'm sure someone's done the measurements), but I decided I actually wanted something that might fit more easily into a diorama, so I decided on a MOD of 8097. I was lucky enough to pick up a set without minifigures for less than £50 on eBay, and only needed one Bricks & Pieces and one Bricklink order to get what I needed (mostly bricks from the UCS). Without further ado, I give you the Not-really-Ultimate, Not-really-Collectors Series Slave 1! The main job was re-shaping the dark red bottom 'skirt' which was far too blocky in the original. This made the top/rounded end 2 studs wider, so a bit of fiddling was needed. I lost the flick fire mechanism, but kept the compartment play features as I felt the fit with the aesthetic and purpose of the craft. A bit of greebling on the fin arms made a world of difference. The 4x6 dark red tile with studs on 3 edges (I'm sure it has a name) actually lies a lot flatter and smoother than it looks here. The outline is not perfect, but I'm pretty happy at this scale. The nose guns are pretty much a copied/scaled down version of the UCS. Flight mode, with Boba Fett at the controls. The underside is pretty much as-was. The removal of the flick-fire rack means the interior is actually pretty empty. I've covered the opening with a small 4x6 hatch for now that may become some sort of removable holding cell. One final shot with Boba Fett scouting for his latest prey. No arm printing? Well, that's for UCS only! All comments and suggestions for improvements gratefully received and acted upon!
  25. As already shown in a preview in my Hogwarts Express Carriages thread, I have completed my rendition of the "Olton Hall" steam locomotive, famous for pulling the Hogwarts Express in the fictional wizarding world of Harry Potter. Here she is in close-up: [ Hogwarts Express by Phil B, on Flickr This is a model that started as a Mod of 75955, but has progressed far enough from the original set that you can call it a MOC I think. Here is a list of all modifications I made: Lengthened the entire boiler by 6 studs and placed the middle section under a one-plate angle to better capture the shape of the real Hall Class. Widened the engine to 7 studs (almost 10 across the pistons and driverods). This allowed me to accurately model the forward facing windows in the cab, and allowed me to create openings for the wheel flanges to accommodate a larger wheel size, Upgraded the wheels to Big Ben XL Drivers and Big Ben Medium pilot truck wheels - I like how they have true spokes vs the printed spokes on LEGO's regular train wheels. The model works with standard LEGO Large and regular train wheels as well. Extended the pipes from the side to around the nose of the boiler. Redesigned the front buffer beam. Gone is the "lock" from the original model, but it features the same details as the real-life Olton Hall. With the change to 7 wide I widened the cab, but kept the original firebox and gauges from 75955, which was quite an "offset" challenge to do. Completely redesigned the tender to house a LiIon LEGO battery box and a Power Functions IR Receiver, though the model can work with PFxBricks as well. The tender is 6 wide, with one pivoting axle and a fixed PF train motor. On the pictures she is pulling my consist of 5 BR Mk I coaches - 2 First Class, 2 Second Class and a combined First Class/Baggage/Brake coach. Each carriage has a fully detailed interior and is 7 wide. Progress on these carriages has been documented in my Hogwarts Express Carriages thread. Here are the picture and drawing I used for inspiration: More pictures of the engine: The full consist: And the coach interiors: