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Found 377 results

  1. Hello people, as i have seen some topics made by some members were they share their creations, modifications and ideas, i thought it was a good idea to start my own topic about that, this way i can avoid filling other topics with too many information by saving all that information here and just posting small texts in those other topics. To start, i would like to share some creations which i worked on: Model Team Nissan Frontier. This is one of my oldest models, i made it even before i knew about Eurobricks, and i would like to share it with you because you might like it or modified it: This model features front independent suspension, rear leaf spring suspension using 5.5 axles, HOG steering, working doors, bonnet and tailgate, 5 seats and a towing hitch; its very possible that some parts are with wrong colors or there could be outdated building techniques, but i think that is not too bad for one of my first LDD models (i am no sure, but if i have enough time and inspiration i could make it in real Technic parts), The LXF: http://bricksafe.com/files/imanol/nissan-frontier/Nissan Frontier.lxf. Model Team Paramount Group Marauder MRAP. Again, one of my oldest models, it is made at a pretty small scale but it could still be considered as "model team" (i think), it has pendular suspension in both axles which are damped by cross-axles which act as leaf springs, it has HOG steering, working winch and doors, a spare tire and 2 turrets that can be mounted on the roof: The LXF: http://bricksafe.com/files/imanol/paramount-marauder/Paramount Group Marauder.lxf Technic Unimog U500 Long Chassis (I have called it UNI-MOC) You might have seen it in the latest posts at 8110´s Mods topic ( http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?/topic/57543-8110-unimog-mods-and-improvements/&page=78 ), it is a 64 studs long and 24 studs wide model which i started to make because the modifications in the 8110 got to a too high level and i wasn´t satisfied with the whole model, i created this new model to hold all of my wanted functions and details, this model has some designs from other builders: Madoca´s Tatra 2-speeds gearbox (slightly modified to fit in this new chassis), Efferman´s planetary rims, a modified version of Didumos knob gear driven axle and a 3-side dumping system and dropping sides inspired by Kumbbl´s modifications, it was also made by some help and inspiration by Pat-Ard: This Unimog has 4 M-Motors, 2 L-Motors, 2 XL-Motors, 3 IR RC Receivers, 2 AAA Battery Boxes and 3 PF Switches (brick-built with ugly colors), why so many motors? well, as you might know, the 8110 had only one M-Motor inside it, which was meant to drive the 3 main functions of the set (front PTO, rear PTO and the pneumatic pump) the problem was that the functions couldn't be used simultaneously, you couldn't power front and rear PTO´s at the same time or with the pneumatic pump and because this system uses a gearbox and axles to engage and transmit the power to the different parts, this results in a lot of friction and power losing (other of the reasons of why i started this MOC), other thing that bother me about the 8110 was the proportions of it, it was very tall with lifted wide axles, but very thin cab and bed which made it look silly, the chassis had no space for all the functions that i wanted, i couldn't place enough motors or functions on it, and the axles were another problem, the steering pivot and angle was a disappointing, the tires couldn't steer too much with the half pins, and if you removed them, the mudguards and the surrounding elements needed to be placed far away from the tires to avoid them from colliding, these are few of the reasons of why i started to make my own version of this UGN class of Unimog (which are U300, U400 and U500). Some of the good features of this model are: Improved steering pivot (2 studs closer to the wheels compared to standard portal hubs) Wheels and portal hubs can handle more torque without jamming parts The axles are more compact (less tall), so the chassis can move even lower for a more realistic performance Front steering by L-Motor Rear steering (By M-Motor) with the same axle design as the front one Anti-roll bars in both axles, which help a lot to handle with weight and give a lot of stability, and they can be easily removed for serious offroading Remotely shifted 2-speeds gearbox by M-Motor Directly driven pneumatic pump (L-Motor) and PTO´s (M-Motors) for less power losing 3-side tipping 37 studs long 23 studs wide dump bed with dropping sides using a V2 large pneumatic cylinder Drive by 2 XL-Motors So, these are some of my models, i hope you like them, and i hope to upload more of them, i will try to do my best with all them, let me know what you think about this topic and the models, and any suggestion is well received Thanks.
  2. Robert8

    Ideas for CMFs

    Hello everyone! Welcome to this thread Here you'll find my wishlist for CMFs, which I illustrate with drawings. I'm not a professional designer but an amateur and I do this just for fun. The CMF theme is one of my favorite LEGO themes ever and collecting Minifigures is one of my favorite hobbies. I'm always looking forward to get some feedback which helps me to improve. SERIES A SERIES B SERIES C SERIES D SERIES E SERIES F SERIES G SERIES H SERIES I SERIES J SERIES K SERIES L SERIES M SERIES N SERIES Ñ SERIES O SERIES P SERIES Q Advent Calendar SERIES R SERIES S --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- So, here is the first wave. Let's call it SERIES A. Hope you'll like it Enjoy exciting, new adventures with Series A of the Minifigures collectibles. This series includes the Gymnast, the Giraffe Suit Guy, the Troll, the Architect, the Southern Businessman, the Crossing Guard, the Town Crier, the Lifesaver Guy, the Piper, the Mime Girl, the Galactic Traveler, the Skydiver Girl, the Robotics Engineer, the Harpist, the Puppeteer and the Organ Grinder. Inside each ‘mystery’ bag you’ll find a minifigure with one or more accessories, plus a display plate and a collector’s leaflet 1. Gymnast Part assorment: New hula hoop piece, the S3 Sumo Wrestler hairpiece, regular head, torso and legs. 2. Town Crier Part assorment: New combo hairpiece: tricorn hat + ponytail, a new handbell, regular head, torso and legs. 3. Crossing Guard Part assorment: The Series 9 Policeman hat recolored in black, a 4L bar, a 2x2 octagonal tile with a clip, regular head, torso and legs. 4. Harpist Part assorment: New harp piece. Padme Amidala's bun hairpiece, regular head, torso and slope 5. Galactic Traveler Part assorment: New molded head: head + bubble combo, ray gun piece, 1x1 translucent stud, regular torso and legs 6. Southern Businessman Part assorment: New 10 gallon hat piece, 2 revolvers, the mustache piece, regular head, torso and legs 7. Mime Girl Part assorment: New hairpiece: beret + hair combo, regular head, torso and legs 8. Troll Part assorment: New molded head, club piece, regular torso and short legs 9. Lifesaver Guy Part assorment: New duck lifesaver piece, Poe Dameron hairpiece, flippers, regular head, torso, and legs 10. Puppeteer Part assorment: New Classic King puppet, new Jester puppet, top hat. Alfred's coattails cloth piece. Regular head, torso, and legs 11. Skydiver Girl Part assorment: S10 Skydiver helmet, parachute pack neckpiece, regular head, torso, and legs 12. Architect Part assorment: Gail the Construction Worker hairpiece recolored, suitcase piece, 2x4 tile, regular head, torso, and legs 13. Giraffe Suit Guy Part assorment: New giraffe mask, new giraffe tail, regular head, torso, and legs 14. Organ Grinder Part assorment: New music box neckpiece. Beret, classic monkey, regular head, torso, and legs 15. Piper Part assorment: Hunter's hat in dark blue, large feather, mouse, short cape, 3L bar, regular head, torso, and legs 16. Robotics Engineer Part assorment: Emmet's hard hat piece recolored, 1x1 round tile (x2), walkie talkie piece, S16 Babysitter's baby recolored, regular head, torso, and legs. And an extra head for the robot with red eyes Extra pic! The little robot's alternate head: And here is the group pic! The color is lavender, of course! This Series A would introduce 14 new moulds: hula ring, harp, duck lifesaver, beret+hair piece, music box, Classic King puppet, Jester puppet, ten gallon hat, tricorn hat+hair, handbell, Troll molded head, Galactic Traveler molded head, giraffe mask and tail Leaflet: Box distribution (60 minifigures) So, that's it for now. I expect to post more of these later this year SERIES B
  3. Welcome aboard the Astro-train! This futuristic stream-liner was a mix of the 1950's Earth train called the "Aerotrain" but redesigned specifically for use by Nexus Force personnel as a high-speed, high-security ground transport between the northern-most city of St. Nicklaus and north-pole-hugging outpost of Ice Station Odyssey, around 590 miles away. (this all takes places on the ice-bound planet of Beta Polaris, which orbits what we here call the North Star, far away from Earth.) Thus this makes it a space train! Unlike the original Earth version, the Astro-train is super-streamlined, and can go up to speeds of up to 230 MPH on special track, with super-elevated curves and long straight-away's of hundreds of miles, all while using Positive Train Control (PTC) on the the mostly double-track mainline, where all vehicle crossings are flyovers and switches virtually non-existent once out of St. Nicklaus city limits. This train runs along with Seven identical versions of itself on the route with up to five in running order on the route and at least one in the maintenance shed at any one time. Also, please NOTE: The train is authorized to make 15 minute stops in the icy wastelands at native villages as requested before continuing on to it's destination. Signal boxes are provided at certain spots to stop the train at the correct spot to en-train, with only village elders having the keys. To de-train, you must pull the cord at least full 10 minutes before you wish to disembark to allow the train to slow down. Only five stops are marked on the route, but several unmarked villages are springing up, so the schedule has gone out the airlock recently. (In actuality, this is a heavily modified version of 2018 Star Wars set 75217 (Imperial Conveyex Transport) mashed up into an 8-wide version of my 1950's Aerotrain model. The model also features inside details and Jacobs bogies besides the lift away side panels of 75217 and removable cab roof.) This loco is missing five printed pieces: (1) slope of this type for the front of the nose, right below the third headlight. It is the Nexus Force's logo. (4) of this round tile for the roof engine exhaust vents. Fold up the walls so you can look underneath at the powerful diesel engine. The roof of the engineer's cab comes off to place a figure at the controls. Each of the four cars can hold four seats each behind the two fold-up side walls. These are the four passenger cars, which are linked together in pairs of two by Jacobs bogies. They can have more two-car sets dropped in or out, but the rear-most car set is the minimum. (as the last car carriers the four tail markers) I thought about adding another two cars, but the price was too prohibitive right now. Anyway, I think this might become a real brick built model sometime around Christmas to go with my Nexus Force space base... as seen in this horribly out-of-date picture from January 5th, 2019 and this topic here. We will just have to see what the future holds!
  4. Greetings, i want to introduce my MOD of official set 8081, made for @Thirdwigg's and @rm8's fan contest. Warning, pictoral heavy post ahead. We all know about bug hit in SUV market - Daytona Extreme Cruiser - city suv with v-4 under hhe hood, stylish body and good offroad perfomance, while being rwd only. We heard that new generatiopn is under development now. Soon maybe we see spy photos of prototypes on their test drive... But lets look back, in the past, to see what lies in roots of Extreme Cruiser. What allowed Daytona automobiles to test new ideas and engeneering soutions... Meet the Daytona Omnis R2 It was produced in early 80-es in small quanities and today it become a rare classic. Underrated, but classic. View from all sides: As it sucsessor, it features openable hood, doors and trunk Under the hood supercharged v-4 engine could be found. Also unique front suspension can be seen too. Rear suspension is regular live axle. Car have spartan interior which aside of front seats has also small rear bench, making car 2+2 seats formula Lets look on Omnis from below You can see vehicle's 2+N synchronized transmission and suspension, which has long travel and soft shock absorbers, ensuring comfort and smooth ride even on off-road. Examples of suspension travel Hope that you enjoyed our little demonstration. LXF file with model - https://www.dropbox.com/s/4vdrwnp95aj45ta/8081 Daytona Omnis R2.lxf?dl=0 Really hoping to see your comments and suggestions on my mod.
  5. I picked this set up last year, I have tried many ways to modded the wings, this is the latest version which remained unchanged for around 6 months. The biggest problems for this set and the black/orange version is that the wings overlap, I have to fill up the each top engine nacelles with 1 x 3795 Light Bluish Gray Plate 2 x 6 , 1 x 3023 Dark Bluish Gray Plate 1 x 2. Move the existing parts around to rebuild the front wings, swapped the position of the 2 slopes (3298 and 3297). The end result is that each wing is 3 studs thick, when closed the whole wing combined is 4 studs thick. Additional parts required below, I apologise in advance if I missed any, I have tried so many different combinations overtime that I have to refer to the original building instructions to what the wings look like originally. For the nose 1 x 3069b sand blue 1 x 2 tile 1 x 807079 Light Bluish Grey 2 x 4 tile For the wings 2 x 3795 Light Bluish Gray Plate 2 x 6 2 x 3023 Dark Blueish Gray Plate 1 x 2 4 x 3024 Dark Bluish Gray Plate 1 x 1 Cannons 4 x 3713 Light Bluish Gray Technic Bush 75149 Mod by R Y, on Flickr 75149 Nose by R Y, on Flickr 75149 Wings Closed Front by R Y, on Flickr 75149 Wings Close Back by R Y, on Flickr 75149 Wings Open Front by R Y, on Flickr 75149 Wings Open Back by R Y, on Flickr 75149 Back Wing Topside by R Y, on Flickr 75149 Back Wing Underside by R Y, on Flickr 75149 Front Wing Topside by R Y, on Flickr 75149 Front Wing Underside by R Y, on Flickr
  6. mcphatty

    [MOD] X-Wing 75218

    Edit - The finished X-Wing MOD with no internal structural changes (removing 2 layers of plates around the lever is the biggest job) so what you can see is a cheap and easily added set of cosmetic updates. Parts in Stud.io: https://www.dropbox.com/s/57zgclcop9ftplo/MOD 75218 X-Wing.io?dl=0 Thanks for your help guys! Original post- My kids bought me the new X-Wing for Christmas, they’re the best! I’ve wanted one in Lego form since I was a kid and hung on to the idea of a new set since I got back into Lego five years ago. Initially I was disappointed with how this set looked due to that ugly lever on top and similarities to Poe’s X-Wing. However, I recently saw a friend’s set and between us we worked out a few easy mods to improve things on a budget. Starting at the front we added a few plates to the nose to combat how flat the top looks, then added dishes and pins to the laser tips, also replacing the blue pins inside the roots with with black pins plus 4L lightsaber bars to reduce wobble. We added landing gear and a couple of modified plates either side of R2 to box him in. Most significantly took part of the S-Fool lever off and added a removable lid with some detail. I was thinking of adding internal gears connecting to a handle at the back but I really like that rear greebling so for now the lid comes off to to open and close the S-Foils. (Edit: I also added the extra cylinder length to the engines, thanks to Richpepperell for the design and Jerac for the suggestion) Bricklinking the extra parts costed about £6 including delivery, the skids for the landing gear weren’t common but cheap enough as used parts. Hope you like it and happy modding in 2019!
  7. I really like the new city space line and 60229 is my favorite of the line. But there are two aspects of it that I thought should be improved to live up to the name of the set. The crane needed more range of motion and the truck needed to be longer to actually carry more of the rocket components. I extended the truck by one axle and the length of the bed, so that it can properly carry the shuttle portion and single rocket boosters (they still hang off though). The most serious mod is adding another axis of motion to the overhead crane, built on two baseplates. I used the new rollercoaster tracks for this which worked well. I also built a ramped platform for the truck to bring its bed height closer to the bed of the rocket transporter. Lastly I added a cab and supporting railings and ladder to the crane so that it can actually be operated by someone instead of mysteriously moving on its own. Enjoy and comments are appreciated!
  8. Hello Community, I would like to say hello ... I read this site over a year now and before I post something, I should introduce myself ... Well, I am made in Germany, my age is something about 50+ years and I am interested in Lego Star-Wars models. Here are some pictures of my Star-Wars spaceship interpretations (MOD) ... Thank you very much and best regards Miller LEGO Star-Wars Set Fury- Class Interceptor 9500: Link to the picture (^) Link to the picture (^) Link to the picture (^) Link to the picture (^) .
  9. Hello, Madoka's JEEP Wrangler for me is most beautiful JEEP build from LEGO ever. That was a love from the first sight. And it is also fit my favourite scale - 15 stud wide body, like my Toyotas. Since I saw it - I want it on my shelve. Comparing to Madoka, who's every new model is a Challenge and he never use previous model's elements (no matter body design or internal structure of chassis), I am quite conservative. My every next model is evolution of previous if talk about chassis. Madoka's JEEP Wrangler chassis is awesome, but I prefer my own with springs, links and gear rack steering. So I stretched his Jeep from 3 door version to 5 door, added rear seats with foldable backs. Put it on the Hilux chassis with minor changes and that's my "own" JEEP. specs - Driving - XL motor - Steering - Servo motor - Body removable from chassis - Openable doors - Removable 2 section hardtop roof - Suspension on both live axles - 4x4 transmission - LED lights - Smart Brick for RC with iPhone / ДУ через Sbrick - 1 stud lift possibility - Winch is fake (like all beautiful things in modern world:)) The hardest part for me was rear doors. That sounds funny, but making them tapered with the right angle was impossible using standart angle connectors. So I have to cheat and use LEGO System bricks and inverted slopes. No, I never miss this bricks while playing Jeep, but this element is still bothering me. May be someone could offer better design - I will be glad to use your idea. Front axle is little bit long, shifted forward may be half or one stud, than should be. But this was done to fit larger wheels, because stock wheeled JEEP Wrangler is the worst looking offorader in the world, especially long wheelbase version I also left possibility for body and chassis to be connected on two ways: standart and 1 stud lifted. This is lifted verison with 74 mm tires from RC4WD Jeep is modular like real model with removable doors and 2-section roof, thanks Madoka for design. Front lights are still LED ready. Expeditional stuff increases the weight of the model, but this is Jeep's calling to be like that. Roll cage, roof rack, spare wheel holder, baggage and cans, fake winch, extra lights, snorkel and extendable rain/sun tent. With minor changes in the axles, model can stand on RC 1:10 tires that have wide variety to choose from And my favourite: Buggy Mode with RC4WD Mickey Tompson Baja MTZ tires about 81 mm diameter. And this is not just shelve model, because Jeep without roof and doors is really light. If you put Buwizz in it - you will have a lot of fun with it ;) Many more photos here My advice to novice builders: don't hold your sets under the dust on shelve, and don't try to build your own model from scratch. Modifiying sets and models of other designers is the easiest way to increase your skills. Don't afraid, just try:) You can also see some other wheels variations in the next video. And of course, test drive in different conditions, including rocks, mud and water. Have a nice time;) How it performs with BUWIZZ? Check it out p.s. You can also watch review of Madoka's model. TURN ON SUBTITILES. or original video Jeep Wrangler (red) designed by Madoka
  10. Hello everybody, during this holidays I purchased the 42081 and decided to build it a little different. First, I made some minor changes in design, to look a little more similar to the "real" Zeux. I changed some color here and there; the yellow panels in the middle are different; the placement of the "02" adhesives is on the lower DBG panels instead of the upper ones. But the biggest MOD was to add the pneumatic system, with motorized pump, instead of manual LAs. The valves are located on the sides of the loader, 2 on the left and 2 on the right. There are 2 big cilinders (to rise the arm and the rear axle) and 2 medium (old) cilinders, to operate the bucket and the counterweight. Here you can see the last cilinder, the pump and the motor, located below the battery box: And here is a short video:
  11. LegoModularFan

    Making Eurobricks More Active

    Hi everyone, I actually have been considering to create this topic for two-three months but after noticing that we didn't have the Expand the Winter Village Contest VIII yesterday (I wasn't aware of that before), I thought it was time to create this topic. Without further ado, let me jump into it. I see that the level of activity on EB is lower than it was before. For example, the number of active members seemed to be higher; the interaction between members and also between staff and members looked more intense, more amusing and interesting discussions were going on, and people were having more fun (such as on titles). If I'm wrong and if EB is a forum that is still active as it used to be, I believe, in any case, it deserves to grow - with even more AFOLs (I do understand that every AFOL may not want/don't have time to interact but they can come only to show their MOCs). So I feel it's just the right time to take action. So, does anyone else feel the way I do and does anyone has any suggestions? Staff, I know this may a sensitive subject and you may not be ok with regular members interlope and I absolutely understand that. I just would like to help in anyway I (and other members) can, I hope you'll not be offended. I really think all the forum needs to stand together. Many thanks to all, the staff and members, for your attention, consideration and support. (@Jipay, @Bonaparte, @Hinckley, @Siegfried, @Shadows, @Rick, @Jim, @Bob De Quatre, @WhiteFang, @Fugazi, @Captain Nemo, @Clone OPatra, @CorneliusMurdock, @Brickdoctor, @Stash2Sixx, @Ecclesiastes, @ZCerberus, @Peppermint_M, @Mister Phes, @Phred, @Pandora, @JopieK, @Milan, @VBBN, @Rufus, @LuxorV, @Superkalle, @Dragonator and @CopMike) My apologies for shout-outs to each of you but I just want to draw your attention. Sincerely, LegoModularFan
  12. Hi, First and foremost, i'm French. I do my best to avoid grammatical and spelling error but some (a lot in fact) may subsist. I'm sorry for that by advance. Second, it's my first post here! Hopefully not the last. So here is my mod based on the set 21108 Ghostbusters Ecto-1 car. It's a fully custom made light mod. Key feature of this is: - NO modification of ANY Lego bricks. - NO kragle or drilling or any other funky stuff. - Everything must fit inside. - Hide the mod as much as it can be. - All should work as expected (the strobes strobe, the rotating beacon rotate, etc). The mod is made of 28 LEDs, all controlled by an Arduino board. All wire are INSIDE the car. // All images are clickable for a bigger version. Here is the exterior shots, everything is exactly like every set: The roof portion is still detachable without any hanging wire, it's also clean underneath. Nothing cheap to hide a messy mod: Everything is controlled by an Arduino Pro Mini (Not really a choice, it was the smallest Arduino board I had in home) that is hidden under a 4x2 plates: Same apply for the battery, that was what I had at the time of building. A smaller lipo can be fit so it's not a choice. Run time is... Well I don't know. It fit in the trunk of the car and it's the ideal size to be held by the window mounting point after a small change in the design. Neat! The roof is attached by a very thin wire and connectedto it via a small 45° home made adapter: To start the Arduino, there's a hidden Reed sensor which is (for who don't know) triggered by a magnet. I put a neodyme magnet in a small Lego round piece and when it's in place underneath, the controller is powered on. Yup, the Ecto-1 keyfob is a Lego piece with a magnet in it. Then the magic begin: Pictures don't do justice for the lighting sequence so here is a small video: For those of you where Youtube cry for a copyright infringement (soundtrack to match the car....), here is one that work (it was an earlier version without the embedded electronique like on these photos: If you have question, i'll be glad to answer them. Troll included.
  13. Pretty much as soon as pictures of the City Space 2019 sets appeared online, AFOLs were pointing out their conceptual similarities to Classic Space. I have taken that a step further by recolouring one of the 2019 sets, 60224 Satellite Service Mission, making it consistent with the Classic Space sets of the early to mid-1980s. It is not a true retro mod as the parts and building techniques are those of today, not those of 35+ years ago. So it should really be called Neo Classic Space. I replaced the minifigure with one more in keeping with the earlier period. The repositioning of the wingtips, if you're wondering, was not to make the ship more retro. I just think they look better attached underneath than on top. Here is the 2019 set: And here is my mod: I like to think that the satellite to be deployed by the ship will be communicating with the Classic Space mobile station (and ATV) I recreated a few years ago and still in my display collection: I haven't yet decided whether I will retro mod any of the other 2019 City Space sets. If anyone wants to post below their own mod of 60224 or indeed any other of this summer's releases, please do. I would be most interested in seeing what is out there. Questions, comments, classic colour confusion?
  14. It is my second try at creating a model the way Lego does but at the same time being as sleek and faithful to original as possible. It is not a 100% MOC, because it incorporates some basic structure techniques of 75101 mixed with 75211. 759 pieces plus 56 for a display stand. Imperial TIE Fighter Lego MOC / MOD by Barney Markowski, on Flickr Imperial TIE Fighter Lego MOC / MOD by Barney Markowski, on Flickr Imperial TIE Fighter Lego MOC / MOD by Barney Markowski, on Flickr Imperial TIE Fighter Lego MOC / MOD by Barney Markowski, on Flickr Imperial TIE Fighter Lego MOC / MOD by Barney Markowski, on Flickr Imperial TIE Fighter Lego MOC / MOD by Barney Markowski, on Flickr Imperial TIE Fighter Lego MOC / MOD by Barney Markowski, on Flickr Imperial TIE Fighter Lego MOC / MOD by Barney Markowski, on Flickr Imperial TIE Fighter Lego MOC / MOD by Barney Markowski, on Flickr Imperial TIE Fighter Lego MOC / MOD by Barney Markowski, on Flickr Imperial TIE Fighter Lego MOC / MOD by Barney Markowski, on Flickr Imperial TIE Fighter Lego MOC / MOD by Barney Markowski, on FlickrImperial TIE Fighter Lego MOC / MOD by Barney Markowski, on Flickr
  15. AVCampos

    m:tron [MOD] B.A.T. Mobile

    Here is the Bio-containment Armoured Transport - Mobile, or "B.A.T. Mobile" for short. It is based on set 76112 App-Controlled Batmobile, with aesthetic changes to fit the M:Tron style. Instead of being only black (and sometimes very dark grey), it adopts the lovely M:Tron red-and-black with trans-neon-green colour scheme. I also extended the wheel axles to allow the addition of disks for a more futuristic look. Some of the changes were dictated by the lack of versions in the correct colours of some of the parts, most notably the black Tilted Corners 4X4 W/Angle (design ID 43708) in the front and the trans-red Cockpit 6X6X2 (Design ID 35331). Since this is M:Tron we're talking about, obviously I also had to remove the stud shooters. Other changes were mandated by the parts I had at hand... The bio-containment unit window at the top glows when the vehicle is loaded and ready to roll. I intend to bring it to Skærbæk Fan Weekend this year, for you to see it if you're interested.
  16. Hi! Today I’d like to show two small models. I’ve modified 42088 set. 1. Fire Ladder Truck: 2. Drilling Rig is more interesting. We can rotate the drill and also all drilling shaft moves down. If you like it you can download instructions on http://rebrickable.com Also I've filmed short video with English subtitles: Thanks for watching!
  17. Redimus

    Modified Emerald Night

    OK, so I have never made any secret that I think Emerald Night is crap. Odd proportions, terrible tender, complete lack of understanding of what several parts actually represent, looking *nothing* like the source material,.... I also know (from bitter experience) how difficult (and expensive) making a decent replacement is. After having built some really nice Pullmans, and building a disappointing pacific (which was miles better than EN), taking it apart, starting again, running out of inspiration, then getting made jobless so I couldn't afford to buy bits had I come up with an improved design, I decided to finally do something about my Emerald Night that had been sat in a corner with no wheels for at least 2 years. Things that I wanted to change: Give the front a footplate. Use the cylinder fix. Do something about that god awful (lack of) dome. Raise the cab so it doesn't look too daft with my coaches. Build a completely new tender (seriously, f**k that tender, that city cattle wagon was less lazy). Add lights and S Brick (which I had done a long while ago). So here are the results: Loco The new footplate, added tiles to the front bogie, replaced the green 1x6 plate with a black one, and the improved cylinder innards. New dome with S Brick underneath. Slightly raised cab. Tender The tender was a complete rebuild, but used basically the same chassis. It was however, a little lazy, and relied heavily on what I happened to already have. New Tender Completed Engine with Train. I intend to replace it with an actually good loco one day, but until inspiration and funds allow, this is a vast improvement.
  18. Hello all, When you are playing with your Lego creations, what remote control set-up/configuration do you use? The main one I use for my cars is a joystick and steering wheel combination: The other configuration I use is a 2 way joystick: The other MOD I have come across is the following link based one: More pictures are available at my Bricksafe account: http://bricksafe.com...remote-controls If you have any other modifications or set-ups you use, post them here. Thanks for reading, Jim
  19. I picked up this set recently and really like it, it’s pretty iconic and unique! I wasn’t happy with how high up Obiwan’s starfighter was positioned in the ring though, like everyone else I guess, so I’ve made a few simple changes which I hope improve the overall look. I lowered the ‘cross bar’ by about two bricks by first building up to instruction step 179 (leaving out the black pins in step 116 and skipping all the plate building steps 143 to 162) and then in step 180 connecting the upper trans Technic arms so that the 4L axle slotted in two holes lower down than in the instructions, see the pictures. Now the cams at the end of the cross bar still connected to the rim in step 182 but importantly hanging below those two LBG technic axle pin connectors (at 3 and 9 o’clock on the ring, built in steps 101 and 103). Then I added a single layer of bricks to the cross bar and built the plate docking area on top (following steps 143 to 162 missed earlier). I didn’t like those flappy panel pieces so further modified the dock area by taking them off, rearranging the curved slopes and adding a couple of new wedge plates on hinges that fit snugly either side of the fighters wings. For the whole mod I only added 22 new pieces and repositioned a few others; the white 2x10 plate and dark red inverted slopes under the fighter that get reused in the front of the dock, as does the dark red 1x6 tile and the 1x2 white tile (plus two white 1x1 plates) replaces it to support the fighter. Here’s a link to the Stud.io file showing those changes and how the trans-clear Technic pieces fit together, for clarity all the extra pieces are shown built blue and repeated spread out. https://www.dropbox.com/s/l4l4s4f68h1t5dl/MOD 75191 Jedi Starfighter.io?dl=0 And here’s a few more angles, because my description was probably as clear as mud! The mod is a long way from movie-accurate but I think the set definitely looks better with the starfighter closer to the centre of the ring and fitting more snugly in the dock. Getting the fighter to connect below the cross bar will require a big rebuild which I don’t really want to do but I may try to get it positioned further back, like in the film. I may also add more pieces to the docking area to smooth it out but for now this is an easy and cheap mod with a big visual effect. If you’ve got any other suggestions I’d be happy to hear them!
  20. Hello everyone, as i didn't see any Mods topic for this set, i decided to start it myself, and to start, i would like to share with you the LDD file for the official set (not sure if there was one already), there are some parts missing and some pieces are not fully connected (could i have used developer mode to solve this? yes, but for some reason i decided just to place apart the pieces i couldn't fit in), here is the model: Missing parts: -x4 24118 Panels in Dark Purple (Brick-built and grouped in the model) -x11 6167281 (I didn't add any substitute) -x1 6187734 (The rope) LDD file:http://bricksafe.com/files/imanol/42069/42069.lxf And next is my modifications for this set so far, the first thing that i wanted to do was to put wheels and tires, and because this is an snow-themed set, i decided to put tumbler tires, and i knew that these tires didn't look good in those very wide axles, with these tires the vehicle would look silly, but after narrowing the axle a little bit, i think it is looking like an authentic snow expedition vehicle (it even looks like an JLTV from the sides), i also changed some colors, but is just a test (the model is still WIP): The goal is XL-Motor for drive, Servo Motor for steering and M or L-Motor for the winch (and possibly some lights): I hope you like it, i will try to make more improvements, and i am looking forward to see more modifications by any other member, have happy modding.
  21. I like to present you my Lego town Steinbruck. The name is from Stein=brick & bruck(old German)=bridge. This is my current layout: My MOC and MOD buildings (more detail pictures in the albums; just click the pictures to get there): I'm planning a car wash for the Service Station and will build it in the next months. I also build digital, but can't afford all of them to build with bricks. Click to album.
  22. The upcoming 42082 Rough terrain crane has inspired a whole list of possible improvements because I believe that at this scale some cool functions could/should be modeled (in random order): Two stage outriggers, preferably PF controlled Multiple steering modes (minimal 2: 4WS and front wheel steering) Pendular front axle Luffing jib, folding away against the boom Second winch for secondary hook Replace LA’s which lift the boom with an actuator with a longer stroke for bigger range in the boom angle Cosmetic changes to cabin, engine cover and upper structure to resemble real cranes more like Grove or Terex Some of these are probably overly ambitious and I’m not claiming to be able build all these MODs in one single model, but I am curious to see how far I can take this. My first step is to take a look at possible two stage outriggers. So far I’m tinkering in LDD to find mechanisms for the horizontal stage which are rigid enough to support the Crane and compact enough to fit on both ends of the 42082. I think it must be possible to fit the outriggers in a module measuring 5x7x23 studs. The ultimate goal would be to lift the crane from its wheels, but considering the size and weight of the 42082, I would be happy if the outriggers can simply provide actual support. Progress so far:
  23. Hello everyone! I'm finally here to show my simple modifications for the 75219 Imperial AT-Hauler set. Since the first concept pictures of this model leaked, I wanted it in Lego form. I really liked the overall look and the idea of a smaller imperial cargo ship, which could bring the walkers into battles. When the pics of the actual set released, it received a lot of criticism for its size and colour. I liked the appearance of the set, looked sturdy and I'm quiet liked the idea of the chosed colours. Probably when the build was designed, they had concept arts, where the final colour of the ship wasn't clear and I think the light bluish gray parts with white works well for very light gray, and it looks good with Imperial shuttles and Landing Crafts. It's not as big problem as the color of Kylo's Shuttle. Based on the official images, I have only 2 problems with the model. The first is the technic hook builds to hold the cargo, which is a decent play feature, but nut too accurate and doesn't look good too. The other problem I had, was the fact that only one figure could fit in the relatively big looking cockpit. As the instructions released for this set, I started working on this modification. Firstly I build one of the "arm" of the ship in LDD to see how could I fit the winches. I usually like to the minimum added parts when I modifying a set. When the LDD file for the whole set became available in the Official LEGO Sets made in LDD, I used that to finalizing the arms and started to make more room in the cockpit. I wanted to make big improvement with as fewer changes as possible. So here is it: Tutorial Winches Here is the original build at the beggining: For this modification you'll need this coupple parts. The first move is to remove the whole technic mechanism, which is part of the main play feature. For that, as first step, the plates from all three sides of both arms needs to remove. After that you could take apart the technic axles inside. I'll use a couple of pieces from the cargo, which is included in the set and spare parts as well. And here are all parts from the technic mechanism. The next step is to installing the string and the winch system, so firstly you secure the hooks to both strings with a knot. Than you have to lace through the string in the holes of the two light bluish gray L shaped pieces. You need use only the first two holes, after that you could pull the free ends of the strings out to sideways. The next thing to build is the winches, and its needs these parts. As the space is limited, we need the smallest parts what could use for its task. Because of that, the red technic bush will be our winch drum. You could lace the string trough the two opening of the bush and then you could put it on the axle. For placing this small assembly the long gray technic brick need to be removed from its place. You put together the two part and then you secure the winch drum with two light gray 1x3 liftarm and one small gray bush. You put back the whole thing to the arm and do the same thing on the other side. After that the plate sidings could go back to the sides of the arms and the you can put the steering wheel pieces to the dark gray axles. So here is the ship with the working winches, you could operate them by turning the steering wheels on the sides of the "wings". In the next step we remove the bigger technic panels and need to chang the position of the technic pieces on it. After you put back it to the underside of the wings, you can see that these change not only moves them down by 1 brick, but it becomes a stop to the wings, when you fold it in flight position. That doesn't let the wing to fold the wings to low, wich was another big problem of the original model. On these two pics you can see how the original one(left) is much lower than the modified one(right) Than comes a couple small details. You can add the smaller technic panels to the bigger ones and put dark gray pin connectors to the four exposed tan pins of the landing gears. And these parts can use on the front ends of the wings. Cockpit The problem with the cockpit is that it's designed to be very sturdy and solid, but unfortunately that makes the inside small. The main thing you could do is lowering the floor of it, but for that we need to take apart the whole structure. From the side panels we have to take off the black curved pieces, because they are in the way of the figures arms. The next thing to do is to put the gray wedges to the insides of the sidepanels from the outsides of them. OntThe original design, when you close the roof of the cockpit, it moves the sides out. With the wedges inside makes the side panels to reach the windshield and the distance between them allows the roof to fold properly. After the cockpit is completely taken apart, we need to rebuild its floor. With lower floor and thinner sides, we could fitt more figures inside, so we add a couple smal black panel pieces from the cargo container build and these will be our seats. In the original set the stickers for the controplanels is placed on a slope and on a tile, but I wanted to use two slopes(inspired by the cockpit of the set 75094), so I placed the sticker on a 2x3 black slope instead of the tile. After the floor is finished we need to rebuild the ship the same way as we disassembled it. So here is the final model. I'm very satisfied with this model. The winches working good and the look of the ship improved well. The cockpit could fit four minifigures total, it's a little bit crowded, but does its job. You could operate the winches very easy and with the two hooks you can lift up a lot of different things. If you needs mor stability to your cargo, then you can pull out a loop of the strings at the bottom of the wings, and you could hook those loops to a couple added pieces. Comparison with the oroginal(left): These are the leftover parts from the set: I didn't want to put the stickers to the cargo container, because they are such a cool designs and I want to use them in further MOCs, so I placed them on a couple of tiles. I really hope, you liked this small modification. The only thing, that I'm planning to design is a technic structure, what can grab the latest AT-ST. You can find my full album: Here
  24. Hi there, today I'd like to share a few simple and easy to do modifications on the 2018 75218 X-Wing. First off, the back section of the X-Wing has some issues. The top part of the back area doesnt smoothly continue all the way to the end, but rather cuts off towards the end. I fixed this by simply adding longer tiles and adding a 2x2 plate at the back. You could also use a 2x2 tile if you prefer. X Wing Back 2 by Sucram H, on Flickr I also redid the greebling by extending the middle part up by 1 stud so it's flush with the plate at the top. This gives the back a much better look if you ask me. X Wing Back 1 by Sucram H, on Flickr I also changed the colour of the actuator to change the wings from tan to dark grey, so it doesnt stand out as much. I would've removed the actuator altogether and replaced it with greebling, but I wanted to keep as many of the features intact as possible. Next I redmade the cannons so they didn't have the spring-loaded shooters on them. Normally I actually like having the shooters on my builds, but on this set they just look big and bulky. I also extended the ends of the cannons to make them longer and more accurate. X wing cannons by Sucram H, on Flickr I also managed to get rid of the gaps on either side of R2D2 by attaching a 1x2 jumper plate to both of his legs, which still allows you to take him in and out while making that area look a lot more complete. X Wing R2D2 1 by Sucram H, on Flickr So those are all the adjustments I've made so far, next on the to-do list would definitely be the huge gaps in the engines. I would love to get some feedback on this and perhaps some modifications that you guys have made to your X-Wings! For more pictures of my modificatons, check out my Flickr https://www.flickr.com/photos/sucram_h/
  25. Hi all! I've been trying to mod some of my older sets and after watching the new clone wars trailer, it showed a landed ARC 170 with landing gear, which i don't think we've seen anywhere else. It gives us a glimpse of the front landing gear but not the back. I have a simple solution for the front landing gear but the back is much more complicated. I have tried multiple options but none seem to work. This way the model will look nice but there isn't a way for the landing gear to support the heavy weight at the back. Also the landing gear doesn't fit in the middle as there is a gearbox that takes all the space. Does anyone have a solution?