Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'PF'.
-
My first attempt to build a race car. Shape is OK, maybe front is a little bit ugly :D Built in one evening for Latlug event in Limbaži. For rear wheel arches I used cut SMC TU 4x2mm hose. I did not hide battery box because this car was intended to drive around in exposition room. Battery box change is fast :) Features: Drive - L motor Steering - M motor Return to center steering I like how rear part of a car turned out. Kids had fun, they loved to drive around with it. Also to crash... Front is fragile and holds to the chassis only with two pins. I think that explains everything. Same story about the front axle. Only two pins holds it to the chassis so after a crash usually it was broken too. Steering system and front axle: I have short video about it in Flickr More photos here Cheers! -
This is my first RC MOC. Built for small event in May 2014. Specs: 4x4 3 differentials Drive - XL motor Steering - M motor Pneumatic suspension on both axles Autovalve + compressor - M motor Dumping - M motor PF lights Work in progress: Design of the rear part was rushed, so there was room for improvements. Rear pneumatic suspension worked bad. Thanks to TGBDZ for helping with bodywork and dump bed. And for fun you can check it in action in 2 part video Part 1 Part 2 More pictures here
-
Hi all, Apologies if something like this has been done already, but I couldn't find anything quite like it. I thought it might be a good idea to start a thread to share ideas about the best ways of squeezing Power Functions into small spaces. I occasionaly come across images where I think 'oh, that's a good way of fitting that in' but usually I've stumbled across it by chance and the reference is never there when I need it. So if you have any images of your own MOCs, or somebody elses (try to give credit of course), share them here. As a start, I found this video by a youtube user names Zanthera quite useful in the past, but tenders can make things a lot easier for steam loco builders: Anyone know of any really clever tank engines or small shunters? -
Hello, my entry for the TC6 contest it's a heavy forklift truck, the Hyster 32-12. The model has 8 functions (4 IR or 2 sBricks), it's 50% built at the moment and nearly completed on LDD/MLcad. Soon I'll put updates (photos, video, notes) Here a pic of what an Hyster 32-12 is: Thanks, and hold on for news. Video: -
Hello Guys! I think it is time for me to present my latest Agricultural MOC; The New Holland T8.420 Tractor It is remote controlled by IR, with 4 functions. Drive, steer, lift/lower the rear liftarms, and a pneumatic valve. It has all wheel drive, with a middle differential, and differentials in both front and rear axles. It is driven by a XL motor. The front axle is with suspension, and the steering is powered by a servomotor. It has PTO shaft in the rear, that can be enabled manually. The Liftarms rear are powered by an M-motor, and can swing sideways like in real life. It has a pneumatic pump, and airtank, and it is possible to attach up to three external pneumatic Circuits, and the fourth outlet is permantly used for the front lift. Under the Hood there is a 6 cylinder engine, with 419 HP, and of course a fan. You an see more pics at http://upload.bricks...ry.cgi?f=549840 -
UPDATE: Rebrickable truck chassis Rebrickable dump bed attachment Truck chassis instructions Dump bed attachment instructions Hi! I want to present my latest MOC, a 6x6 Offroad type European style truck with PF. I have been working on this longer than any previous MOC, slowly improving and perfecting things here and there, and can finally say I am finished with the base model! Oh, and also, the instructions took quite a while to perfect! Firstly I want to say thank you to Alasdair Ryan, Efferman and Blakbird for reviewing my instructions and providing valuable feedback! Special thanks to Alasdair for helping me with some LPub issues I couldn't figure out on my own! So, a little introduction: The idea behind this MOC is to make a sturdy and powerful PF chassis with advanced drivetrain and suspension on all axles. Further I wanted it to be highly adaptable when it comes to equipment to be placed on the back of it, thereby providing people with a good chassis onto which they can mount their own MOCs, and allowing myself the time to develop and publish different implementations to the model in the future. The features of the model are: -6x6 drivetrain powered by two XL motors -Steering via a worm gear, powered by one M motor -Lockable central differential (manual) -Live axle suspension on all three axles -PF "Expansion Bay" to easily integrate up to two more remote controlled PF motors -Working V8 engine Non technical features: -Rack to mount a 9V/AAA/LiPo batterybox in the cabin (for lights, etc) -Openable doors -Lower steps for the crew pivot up if hitting an obstacle -Tiltable cabin -Semi-detailed interior (including gear stick, coffee cups and some instruments) -Manual winch in the front For a lot of WIP photos, renders and high res pictures of the finished model, please visit the appropriate BrickSafe folder Firstly I'll show you a couple of pictures of the internals: The final gear ration result in a fairly low speed, but tons of torque (maybe a little too much, as some U-joints have experienced). Due to the high torque, I saw myself forced to modify the central differential, as I wanted the truck to have some actual offroad capabilities. Let it be known though, that for driving on the floor (both wooden and carpet) this is not necessary at all. Then some more actual pictures of the physical model In the above picture you can see the small 9V batterybox I placed in the cabin to provide power for the blinking roof lights. Also some of the way too long wiring I had to use, as I don't have short ones. There are certain differences to my model compared to the one in the instructions, most notably the rear lights and the roof of the cabin. This is due to me lacking the proper pieces, so it looks a little bit off in the pictures. The obligatory underside shot. Here you can see most of the mechanical side of the drivetrain It's a bit difficult to get good pictures of the suspension working.. The PF Expansion Bay. As you can see the two channels are free, and there is room for a lot of wiring. You can also see the dual white clutch gears used for the steering. It makes it powerful and fast, while still preventing the M-motor from stalling. On the other side is the space taken by the lever to engage the diff lock. I originally had an RC function for this, but it turned out a little unreliable due to the M-motor driving itself back a little after stalling. Also, it took up unnecessary space. Shot of the driver's side interior of the cabin. The cabin tilts forward to allow access to the batterybox... Which can then easily be removed. Here you can also see the V8 and the "fake gearbox" with shift lever and cup holder A shot of the rear of the vehicle, meant to show the available space for additions. Okay, that about sums it up. A couple of notes: I initally wanted to have independent front suspension, but this, together with a lockable central diff took up way too much space. Designing the front axle was a real pain, as it had to be very low to not interfere with the engine. This meant the steering motor had to be placed on the chassis. I first tried to use the servo motor, but it took up too much room. The solution I ended up with is as good as it gets given the parameters I had to work with, although it does have a little slack But it works great! Like I said This is supposed to be a modular build, and I am in the process of developing said modules now. Firstly is a picture of three different LA systems that are all more or less "drop in" additions to the model (you need to remove some of the transverse 7L axles seen in the above picture). The one to the left is used for a side tipping bed, which you can see in the next picture. The other two are to be used with for example standard tipping beds or other modules This is a WIP side tipping bed, using the two small LA setup shown above. It is a bit short maybe, but that is to give room for a rear attachment, like a Palfinger style crane, or a material handler claw, like in the picture below: As you can probably see, this is just a modified version of the Unimog 8110 crane, but with a claw (a la 42006) and an extendable boom. It is manual. EDIT: Also; yay or nay regarding the stickers (from 42025) on the cabin in the above picture? I am also going to make a compressor unit that can fit underneath the bed at the cost of the tipping function. Lastly, here is a taste of the instructions, which you can download here It is currently pending approval at Rebrickable (posted last night, so should hopefully not be too long). In the mean time, here is the parts list And here is the LDD model for those interested (a couple of pieces couldn't be properly attached) So thanks for taking the time to read all this, I hope you like the model, and that some of you will be building it yourselves. If you do, please come back here and post your impressions, along with a picture or two of your build! As always, comments, criticism etc etc are very welcome EDIT 2: The truck is built in white in the instructions, so most white parts can be substituted for any other colour. Also, as I note in the introduction of the instructions, most LBG and DBG thin and normal liftarms are used in the chassis, and can be substituted for other colours. The colours are used to make the instructions as clear as possible -
I am pleasant to present my EMT "Charleroi" Madrid Railcar This railcar was a typical railcar in the streets of madrid in the 40s This is the original: Datasheet: Lenght: 26 studs Wide: 7 studs Height: 9 bricks Pieces: 460 aprox, a bit more than expected in LDD File due to technical problems (i need more rigidity than i expected) Weight: 370g without battery PF powered with custom Li-Ion battery Detachable roof, for easy acces to battery Some pictures of the MOC: Detail of one rigidizer and the stairs: Detail of the boguie Detachable roof For more and bigger pics click here Pictures: Panasonic LX5
-
Here is my most recent creation. Work, school, moving, and family time have limited my building time. https://imagizer.ima...90/546/ys4y.jpg Questions,Comments, Concerns? I'm having a devil of time embedding pictures, links, or videos in my posts. What's up with that? v/r Andy -
Hey there, I've got a question about the pole reverser, as I do not own any myself and haven't been able to find this info anywhere online... 1. I assume there is an "off" position (Center?) Yes? No? 2. Does it require 45º of rotation to operate the switch using an axle through the middle? -
I am looking for suggestions on a better way to lock one of the levers in the RC remote control. This older thread http://www.eurobrick...remote +control had one method, as shown in the first image, but is a bit bulky. I would like to be able to lock the lever position in a two-remote set-up, with one of the center remotes being the lockable one (second image, lime-colored lever). The function will be for lights on/off on a 4x4 with independant front and rear steering. Any thoughts would be appreciated. (Chewing gum and other non-Lego solutions are not preferred). -
Greetings to you! This is my first post, and would like some feedback on my new MOC. Built over the span of 3 weekends, I'd say I'm rather craned out. Nonetheless, 'tis a crane truck with flatbed, although the crane is mounted on the rear, unlike most models. It's not based on anything in particular, but let me know if it looks similar to a real vehicle x) Tried to make the front as detailed as possible, using studded elements, and I thought that looked extremely nice. Apologies for the atrocious photography skills, but I tried my best. If you want the pictures smaller and easier to see, go to the imgur link (http://imgur.com/a/cIeGk) They don't seem to want to come out at the correct size on Eurobricks. Rant over, I present to you: http://i.imgur.com/AjgAClX.jpg Observe the minifigure precariously dangling from that crane. x) http://i.imgur.com/MQSwSl3.jpg The rear section comes complete with a rotating crane, (Through 270 degrees) Functioning outriggers (They actually lift the truck) and features a pneumatic boom, with an adjustable crane hook. Aesthetics are quite crude here, but I feel it makes it look realistic. http://i.imgur.com/aDV3NP1.jpg It is evident I'm quite short on those 5x11 plates (I bought 8081) so had to improvise. You can see another view of the crane, too. http://i.imgur.com/Y1ip3qV.jpg Chassis. Nothing special here, but it all works. It is fully RC and controlled by 1 XL motor for drive, (at a 1:1 gear ratio) and 1 M motor for steering. If you want pics of anything else, just ask me and I'll happily provide (I won't edit them, though) Any feedback appreciated! Thanks! - Evil Enderman -
This is not one of my most recent builds but I never published a video of it. Now I took some more indoor shots as well. I started to build this dozer back in 2006 to be laden onto a Renault Magnum. First the model was driven by a RC unit, from set 8366. It ran OK but I didn't like the receiver and it took to much space in the model. Later I made my own control unit but that one was wired to make it possible to get the dozer blade operated by pneumatics. Later I decided to build in some PF stuff. My mate Barman helped me out with designing a compressor which is combined with the switch. I needed two of those and they just fit in the frame. I built in some PF receivers and gave the 9V RC motors another position in the frame. They're now put vertically. The looks are still the same as I was satisfied with it's appearance. Please check the videos: https://www.flickr.com/photos/51102529@N07/13354349433/in/photostream/ https://www.flickr.com/photos/51102529@N07/13354279655/in/photostream/ And the other pics I put in my Flickr stream: https://www.flickr.com/photos/51102529@N07/sets/72157642793053164/with/13354279655/ -
Hey Guys, Currently purchasing parts for my first project (more on that later), but starting plan the next one. I am looking to build a narrow gauge steam locomotive and railway with the Indiana Jones track. I am looking at a classic 4-6-0 ten-wheeler, similar to the Lone Ranger Constitution but scaled more to narrow gauge. Ala Walter E. Disney: or more like Tweetsie No. 12: To scale to narrow gauge on the 3-wide IJ track I wanted to use 50254 for the leading truck wheels and three sets of 55423 for the drivers. My issue is gearing the drivers while still making it look like a steamer on the outside. I am aware of Space2310's bogie, but was trying to keep the outside a little less clunky and just having a driver rod with something like 32065 or custom Zephyr rods. So I am asking for your help to design a 3 axle narrow gauge PF bogie, hopefully internally framed. The center axle probably has to be floating to contend with the 3-wide sharp curved IJ track... Any bogie gurus out there?!
-
This is my first ever completed Technic MOC, originally inspired by Piterx' Lancia Fulvia but much simpler. It's not quite done, but I anticipate being able to spend very little time on Lego in the next year or two, so it's as finished as it's probably going to get. There is no gearbox or interior, and there are a number of things I'd change if I had the time - but overall I'm pretty pleased with it. The 037 was the last rear wheel drive rally car to win the WRC, in 1983. It raced in the infamous Group B category, which had few restrictions on vehicle design and engine power; as a result, the overpowered cars were in a number of fatal accidents, and ultimately Group B was abolished. While it lasted, though, Group B saw some spectacular driving and some extremely fast and loud cars. The Martini Racing stripes are done with washi tape (fancy Japanese colored masking tape), which works OK except where the tape crosses pin holes. It actually looks better in person than in photos. As in the original vehicle, the hood and rear lift up, and the doors open and more or less lock in place: Also like the original, the model is mid-engined. I used 1 RC motor geared 12:20 from the fast output. Until I put the bodywork on, the car could do handbrake turns and drift on wood floors, but now that the vehicle weighs 1030g, it can't drift and can only rarely do handbrake turns. I'm especially happy with the front axle, which includes a decent wheel lock, caster, unequal length wishbones, near-Ackerman steering, and a scrub radius of nearly zero. My thanks to all of those here who offered advice on suspension - I learned an enormous amount from you all. Steering is by servo, which offers return to center, reasonable speed, and high torque. I use a basic remote because the train remote is too slow for me to keep the car from crashing; the downside to that is that proportional steering is impossible. Wheel lock, steering, and scrub radius: Caster: The hub is held together by the 4L axle with stop (and the half bush on it), which turns out to be a more robust solution than I'd expected: The rear suspension is a modification of Thirdwigg's floating differential. It works well, with one caveat. Every once in a while, the 3L axle driving the 20t gear slips towards the differential a bit, and once when this happened a 3L u-joint got destroyed by torsion. The rear suspension is hard and has limited travel, and the suspension arms are tilted up even at rest; I would fix that if I had time. And of course the obligatory under-chassis shot: -
Hi all, Below is my first build of a flow control device to operate a bank of single acting cylinders. It's built on top of Sariel's dual output worm drive gearbox. In this application when the motor runs forward, air is delivered through the near set of valves and black loop to the cylinders on the right. Running in reverse drives the other pair of valves to drain air through the grey loop. Each pair of valves are offset 180deg so they can never be open at the same time. This way it doesn't matter when you start, stop or change direction nothing can get stuck open. The shaft turns counter clockwise and the valves are on a spring return. I've seen mechanisms that drive double acting cylinders but not single acting. Any suggestions for other examples I might be able to learn from? (Ideally it would be a lot smaller but this was as compact as I could make it). Many thanks, OzShan. -
Hi all, Currently im building a Lego City layout with PF trains. What i want is build a ramp for my trains, to get the trains to another level on the layout, which is around 13 bricks higher. There are some guides on ramps, but i don't have enough space for those layout, since then it will be longer then my actual table. When i did some test runs, i've noticed that my trains don't make it. The issue is not that they are not powerful enough, but they lose traction on the smooth plastic PF track, spin out and when stopped they roll down again. So what im interested in, is if someone has any ideas on how to add traction to the track (preferable without damaging the track). What is i thought of was: 1. use old 12v track, since its not smooth, but has compatibility issues. 2. Apply rubber to the track, but not sure how. 3. use sandpaper to make the track rougher, but damaging the track. Not sure if it will work Does anyone has any good ideas on this topic?
-
Hey folks! Well, some years ago I designed a model of an LMS (London Midland and Scottish Railway) Ivatt Class 2MT 2-6-2T engine designed in LDD. So one week ago I changed the livery to the one that was really used and reduced bricks (it just has about 580 for that detailed model). Furthermore I tried to incorporate Power Functions. There is enough room for them, the PF Small motor will definitely fit, but I'll try it with the PF Large motor first. Here is the design from LDD: Here is a pic where you see the PF components: I have built some of the model in real bricks, I just don't have all the parts yet( at least in the right color), though I nearly finished one side: The trailing wheels all clear nicely in curves. I also designed a model of the BR 9F 'Evening Star' which could be operated with Power Functions or 9v in the tender, maybe I will try my hands on that one sometime: I hope you enjoyed it, I will update the thread when it's more finished.
-
The very first Train MOC I did was a very small 0-4-0 Pannier Tank engine with Power Functions. It's ok, but fitting PF into it kinda threw the proportions off a bit, so I wanted to do a proper one which looked a bit more realistic in shape. So I set to work on one which was, and built it from the various different colour pieces I had, before placing an order for the parts in needed in specific colours. However, I couldn't decide on which colour scheme to have it in, whether to have the top half of it in Black or Dark Red. Eventually, I decided to do two of them, one in each colour. After placing nine Bricklink orders and an order with Big Ben Bricks in America for his Medium Driver wheels, I received all the orders this week, and built them both over the past couple of evenings. The Dark Red one has PF integrated into it, while the Black one can fit PF but doesn't yet have it, instead having brick-built 'placeholders' for the PF gubbins. I'm also waiting on a custom order from America for 13-long connecting rods, which should finish them off nicely. If anyone on here is in the UK, they will be on display (along with my other train MOCs) at the Bradford Brick Show on 8th/9th Feb, and at the Yorkshire Brick Show on 22nd/23rd Feb. So without further ado, to the pictures. Can you spot the differences?
-
Hi, I'm wondering if anyone has tried using one of the other PF motors (8883 M-Motor, 8882 XL-Motor or 88003 L-Motor) to power a train, rather than the standard train motor? I'm curious as to which is best for use in trains, as I'd like to do a train where I don't have to rely on the standard train motor. Ideally I wouldn't use the XL Motor, as that looks a bit big to hide in a 6-wide train. I've looked for a thread like this but can't find one. I may have missed it however. Thanks!
-
For some time I've been missing flashing PF lights. Yes, you can achieve flashing PF lights with motors, but there has to be a better way, also to allow more dynamic flashing options. A suggestion for this is shown below. It's also on Cuusoo - support and share if you like it. Flash element allows you to create flashing PF lights by setting the duration of the light/flash and delay (time between light/flash) plus an A and B version for more exciting flash combinations for your creations. Flash element must always be on top of connections to other elements to avoid interfering with their power supply (flash will only affect elements added to the top of the flash element). If you need more flash elements on the same battery box: simply add an extension wire and then the flash element. The unit will always flash, no matter the direction of the current. Old 9V bulbs would change state from flashing to fixed if current was reversed. PF flash element will always flash. -
I've spent the evening building a Pannier Tank Engine. it doesn't run, as I haven't put an IR receiver or battery box inside it yet (I'd have to take them out of my Constitution train), but there are 'dummy' ones in there which I built out of bricks so I had something to work around. It's sat on top of the PF train motor (I removed my Constitution tender from the motor temporarily) to see if it would sit on it well, which I think it does. In the second photo you can see how it's meant to sit on it, and how most of the body is basically built onto the (dummy) battery box. There should be enough space for all the wires... What do people think? Can you see any potential issues or problems? Looking at it now, I'll probably lower the roof by one plate, and I might replace the windows with something else. I'll probably do other stuff to it as well, but for an evening's work, I'm quite pleased.
-
Hi In my first posting i want to show you a little MOC from last year. It's a small PF scissor lift. Last week i made some photos in the garden. Here's a short video of it: That's it, i hope you like it. Greets from Germany, Heiko
-
Great news! The 88003 PF L-motor and the 88004 PF Servo motor are finally being sold separately at shop.lego.com! Thank you TLG! -
Yesterday I received two sets of PF train motor, but I found the axle 7 is too long so that I can't attach Motorbogie, Ornament. Then I tried axle 6 but it seems like too short, what can I do?
-
Ok, here is my entry, got it finished this morning after all night build. My triple consist of truck, removable log crane and trailer. The truck and the crane work with remote PF. (except outriggers on crane are handled manually) The truck: The truck features forward/reverse (L-motor) and return to center steering by PF servo. In the truck are also located the cranes turntable and main boom motors (M&L). It uses maximum 500 parts, it was quite a challenge to do such large model with relativelly small part count. I used LDD trough all the build, so it shouldn't exceed the max part count. I learned a LOT on optimizing and utilizing special technic parts. I'm quite happy with appearance of it, and I like the cabin very much. All tho I had to tape few panels black cause I hadn't anough of them :( But I think you hardly notice :) The crane: The crane features main boom, second boom, and fully operational claw. They work remotely. (one channel not used) Motors are M. It has also manual outriggers. Crane also uses all 500 parts. The claw rotates using small turntable and claw closing action is fed trough it. The claw is synchronized so turning the claw won't affect much to closing action. The synchronization is done in the superstructure with system of gears and differential. In short, when the turning motor is driven, it also turns the the claw gears trough the stationary differential in opposite direction so the claw is almost unaffected (It was not possible to exactly match the gear ratios with small turntable). When claw motor is driven, is the differential turning and closing/opening the claw. Claw turning is not affected at all. I'm quite pleased with this brainchild. It could be used with any other application when turntable is causing undesired action. Below is the crane with out battery case, so the system is visible: (It's a poor picture, I don't know can you make any sense of it) The trailer: Nothing special there, other than it uses only 453 parts :) oh, and I'm also short of double angular beams in same color. All my Black and dark grey ones are in this triple. Finally, all working together: Short video clip: I think I will just copy this to entry topic. (Did it) Feel free to comment.
