dr_spock
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Everything posted by dr_spock
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Technic Pub
dr_spock replied to jantjeuh's topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling
I thought the Pub is for non-LEGO stuff. I wouldn't shoot water on solid hardwood flooring after installing my first floor. Floor manufacturer's care instructions say only clean with damp cloth or mop. Wipe up spills immediately. Air tools make the install much easier. Plus the air compressor can be used for other things. Wheels roll much nicer than on the old carpeting. If you can build LEGO, you can build a tongue and groove floor. -
Nice clever e-waste-free build.
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Eurobricks have done a review on it. https://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?/forums/topic/188604-review-40518-high-speed-train/
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José's Inn - Ye Olde BoBS Drinking Hole
dr_spock replied to Darnok's topic in Brethren of the Brick Seas
Merry Christmas. May Santa brings you lots of rum and LEGO. -
I think that depends on the elasticity of the type of plastic you used to make the part. Read the property info sheets and choose wisely.
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3D printing is not a fast process. A large quantity can take days. Another challenge is finding filaments that match the desired LEGO color. You could grind up LEGO bricks of the desired color and make into filament to use with the 3D printer. 3D printing ABS can be tricky if you can't keep the ambient temperature around the print high enough to prevent warping. Nonetheless, it is fun to design your own custom compatible parts in CAD and 3D print them out.
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Air compressor with a blow gun and makeup blush brush.
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Has anyone tried 3D printing the double cross-over from 4D Brix? Is it any good?
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A bandsaw with a thinner finer blade. Make a jig to hold the reindeer perfectly straight and use a fence on the bandsaw to guide the jig. A scroll saw. might work too.
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Would you rather build in person or online?
dr_spock replied to Grand Admiral Green's topic in General LEGO Discussion
Don't they say it is the thought that counts? Best for what? Studio from Bricklink is pretty good. https://www.bricklink.com/v2/build/studio.page -
Maybe lube with graphite or PTFE? Isn't that how switches supposed to work in real life? Your conductor doesn't throw the switch correctly and the train derails? Aren't we modeling real life?
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It's a cute little set. It kind of looks like a Chinese high speed train: Regarding tracks, I don't have this set or the building instructions. This was built off the online box photos. Please excuse the "farbseuche". I am guessing it should be fine displayed on straight tracks. It doesn't appear that the bogies can pivot. I don't think it can fit the LEGO 4-wide curved tracks without modifications. Having to buy two to make a train reminds me of the Creator Horizon Express train set. CITY to HLC? Now if TLG would release a Friends train set.
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Maximizing integrated use of the Powered Up Hub
dr_spock replied to Desvejk's topic in LEGO Train Tech
It looks like you're using 9V Li-Ion batteries that have a built-in USB charger. There should be a battery management/protection module already inside. I haven't had a Li-PO battery exploded before but I did have one that expanded and cracked the action camera case in half. It was a good little camera that can fit inside a 6 wide LEGO train. :-( -
Thanks. Good to know. I think I am ok with building from a picture but it would still be useful. How's this for farbseuche?
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Would you rather build in person or online?
dr_spock replied to Grand Admiral Green's topic in General LEGO Discussion
It depends. Since I am in a LUG, in person works best for our events and shows. I'm finding online is easier and cheaper for some things like participation bricks. I don't have to BrickLink bricks, spend a lot of time engraving, and hand out in person. With online, I can quickly build a custom brick in Stud.io, render it, and email it to those getting one. Online version In person version I'm thinking of giving in person bricks to those who submitted a in person MOC and online bricks to those who submitted an online MOC for my LUG's current advent build challenge. I haven't given out online before. I wonder how that is going to go over with my members. -
Cool. Learned a new German word: Farbseuche Colour disease? The high speed train is clearly a display piece for the office shelf. The bogies don't even pivot. Looks like you have to buy two to make a full train. Hmm, that seems deja vu... It appears that you have to register on BB before you can download their instructions. TLG lets you download without providing any personal information. It'll be funny if we are cloning BB models with LEGO.
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Maximizing integrated use of the Powered Up Hub
dr_spock replied to Desvejk's topic in LEGO Train Tech
Nice. That's one way to shrink down the size of the PU hub. It has been a while since I took apart my PU hub, I believe the two metal contact tabs can be desoldered. Then a 9V battery connector can be soldered in its place. It seems easy enough to design and 3D print an enclosure for it. You can get fancy and add studs and/or Technic pin holes. Or keep the white top part and make a new bottom piece. -
Sounds like Cobi has figured out economy of scale. Better volume discount when you buy only a few types of colorants in larger quantities than many colors in smaller quantities. Then use them everywhere you can in your products.
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My nephew was more than happy to get a Creator Emerald Express without tracks when he visited. Then again a sample size of one kid is not really statistically significant.
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Tow ball sockets should have enough vertical movement to handle the bridge. You might have to "chibi" shorten the cars into the BRIO style. LEGO did have 4 wide tracks. I think they were in Indiana Jones mine set, spaceship in an Alien Conquest set, Batman Joker fun house. That system only goes in circles and up/down.
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There are many ways to light the way. 5mm white LED and 30 gauge wire. The 5mm LED fits in a Technic brick hole. You need add resistor (the small component with the color stripes) to limit the current flowing to the LEDs. Otherwise, you could destroy them. I use the formula V=IR or an online calculator like: https://www.hobby-hour.com/electronics/ledcalc.php 12 volt LED strips are easier. They come with resistors already installed. You can cut them to length at designated cut points and power them directly with 12 volt DC. They have a sticky strip that you can stick to the LEGO. I used wires from old computer cables for these ceiling light plates. A spool of plain white LED strip costs under $10 and lights a 20 unit LEGO tower apartment display. I added a jack to plug in a 12V power adapter for my club members who would be transporting and setting up the display at events when I'm not there. LED strips work for a night light too. I order from eBay or AliExpress. To keep costs down I reuse parts from my collection old electronics. Tools used are a soldering iron for electronics and wire cutter stripper. There are many how-to resources online on LEDs, soldering, wiring, etc. like https://www.brainy-bits.com/tutorials You can also find books at your local public library. Anything can be disassembled and reused. Soldered connections can be desoldered.
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Maybe it should be called "High Speed Push Train". It'll go as fast as your hands. Good train for a kid with a small bedroom or person with small apartment.
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It is way cheaper to do it yourself. You can customize to your exact requirements. Learning to solder is a good life skill.
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Is it compatible with the Powered UP app? Seems kind of pricey to use just for train control. I guess it is targeted to the education market that have decent school budgets for equipment.
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Hardcore fans would get 2 friends and group buy a full case. Then open bags and divide up the CMFs. Each person should end up with one complete set plus a couple extras.