Eurobricks Citizen
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About Aaron

  • Birthday 11/14/90

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  1. Some of the bigger LUGs that use grand curves would benefit from them. It would make assembling the curves easier, since the current method of using hinges and plates on straight tracks tend to pop apart if you aren't careful enough. And you'd be surprised, with a bit of creativity, what you can do with larger curves. Are you familiar with S-curves? Anyone can fit those on their layout, and R200s would work well for this purpose for anyone. Also, if your house is set up so that the basement is just one room, or the kitchen, living room, and dining rooms are connected in a circular fashion, even little kids could have fun with R200 curves. It isn't just people with bigger/longer trains who benefit, but those who want to run their trains at high speeds without derailments.
  2. The best deal I'm seeing on ebay for actual LEGO power functions track (not the cheap knockoffs) is $32.76 for 16 + shipping. As for myself, I prefer to get all of my straight track on BrickLink whenever I spot a really good deal. The next best thing is to just buy the straight and flex track packs, keep the straights, and sell the flex track. I've found that prices (for LEGO in general) on ebay are almost always way too high, which is why CrackLink BrickLink is my go-to place for all things LEGO. Anyway @coaster, seeing all these knockoff straight tracks lately also has me thinking that BrickTracks producing PF straight track might be a bad idea. There's just too much (cheap) competition, and it could take a lifetime before you see a ROI on the mold. Although I'm not seeing any third party 9V, so if you were to make any straights at all, your best bet would be to go with those since you'd have the monopoly
  3. Is the quality of those any decent though? Last time I bought Chinese knockoff tracks they were warped like hot dogs to hell and back again. The only use I could think of for them was for inclines, but I ended up just giving them away to my nephew since he's still a toddler and wouldn't give a shit either way.
  4. Santa Fe Super Chief MOC

    I was just floating the idea. I'm going to see what I can do with what I already have first before I spend any money on decals.
  5. I'd sell both of my kidneys to buy you the tooling needed for R200 curves. The only downside is that I'll have to tear apart my freshly ballasted R120s.
  6. Make the biggest switch you possibly can; like the Golden Gate Bridge, Burj Khalifa, Saturn V, or Brock Lesnar of switches. In fact, we may as well just call it The Mother of all Switches. My 4DBrix R148 crossovers are great and everything, but I want something bigger for my layout. Something greater than or equal to a #10 switch in real life. If you can do that I'll end up buying at least 20 of them over time.
  7. Santa Fe Super Chief MOC

    Vinyl decals, right? I could use some of those in dark red.
  8. I meant as far as speakers go. There are two different sizes, which are M and XL. https://fxbricks.com/pfxbrick/soundfx/ I'm assuming yours is the XL, given how clear it sounds? I backed the kickstarter pledge that included the XL speaker along with the PFX brick, since I was worried that the M speaker might not be loud enough for the diesel horn I want.
  9. What size sound brick are you using in that?
  10. Functional Coach Corridors (Technique)

    Thanks everyone! Sorry for the late response--I've been spending almost all of my free time building lately and forgot to check back on this topic. I'll eventually take more detailed, in-depth photos of the coaches, and possibly do a separate topic focusing on 10-wide streamliners and various techniques. This is just the beginning!
  11. Functional Coach Corridors (Technique)

    I'll try to get videos up as soon as I finish ballasting my layout and reworking one of my diesels for the PFXBrick. Here's a demonstration using BrickTracks R120 curves. Both coaches are around 80 studs long. Diaphragms Vs BrickTracks R120 Curves by Aaron B, on Flickr
  12. Hello everyone. Today I would like to share a technique that I had been developing over the past few years, and that is none other than a swiveling coach corridor. Ever since I was a child and visited some of the numerous excursion trains in Pennsylvania, I was completely fascinated by their sheer size, and had always wished that I could somehow, someday replicate the coaches to scale using LEGO bricks. At the time it seemed like an impossible dream. Today that dream has come true. One of the most fascinating aspects of passenger trains is the ability to walk between cars while they're in motion, and it's a feature that has always been missing from LEGO trains. Several years ago, I vowed that I would somehow find a way to make this work. Through trial and error, and several different flimsy designs, I finally settled on my final version: the Ball Joint Coach Corridor (or BJCC I guess). Whatever you want to call it, the basic principle is that it's made possible by using the new(ish) modified plates with ball joints. You can sandwich 6-tall door frames between the 1x4 joint cup plates for extra support, 5-tall windows, or just leave them without a frame depending on how high you need them to be. Shown here are corridors on a pair of my 10-wide coaches. To simulate the rubber between the coaches and the diaphragms, I chose to wrap black rubber bands over the modified bricks with bars. I'm sure rubber tubing cut to size would be even more aesthetically pleasing, but I haven't tried it yet. Coaches by Aaron B, on Flickr Ball Joint Coach Corridor by Aaron B, on Flickr Ball Joint Coach Corridor by Aaron B, on Flickr Ball Joint Coach Corridor by Aaron B, on Flickr Ball Joint Coach Corridor by Aaron B, on Flickr Ball Joint Coach Corridors by Aaron B, on Flickr The best part? They'll work on anything, including 6-wide coaches. Feel free to use this technique at will. I'd love to see how these corridors work out for everyone! Just keep in mind that while they will work fully fine on all curves, including R40s, they'll shift around a bit on longer coaches, so the wider the curves, the more aesthetically pleasing they are. Enjoy! :)
  13. Type E Coupler for LEGO Trains

    If you add a second pin (or hole) behind the first one, you could attach one of these: This would enable those who want to attach the couplers to bogies to do so, which would center them automatically. For those who body mount their couplers, you could simply just mount the coupler to the body using one of the pins/holes so that it swivels, and then use rubber bands looped around the free pin and attached to connection points on either side underneath the train car if you want it centered. Edit: I'm also a fan of the friction pin and/or magnets. Whatever works.
  14. Track Ballast - Ideas needed

    This is how I ballast my layout. The light bluish gray ballast is for a double mainline, while the dark bluish gray is intended for yards. It can be done with Me Models track as well as LEGO Power Functions and 9V track, as long as you have the parts to cover up the dark bley. Google search won't show you everything. If he hadn't made this topic, I would have never bothered uploading pictures of my track in the first place.
  15. I just use kadee O scale couplers. No modifications needed.