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About Aaron

  • Birthday 11/14/1990

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  1. I decided from the onset that I'd break away from the majority and forge my own path. When I started building in 10-wide, there was nobody else (that I knew of) doing it at the time. I had nobody to look to for influence, and had to start from scratch, spending countless days visiting railroad museums, studying engineering diagrams, and collecting detailed HO scale models to use as references. It took tons of tinkering around with bricks, and tons of trial-and-error to try to make everything work at this scale. The major breakthrough for me was the release of third-party wide radius curves. It has taken years upon years to get to this stage, and only within the past few months have I begun to wrap things up in the design and building stage to finally move on to stage two: presentation and operation.
  2. The average global height of humans is between 5'2" and 5'6". With hairpieces, minifigures fall into that height range at 1:38. While they are proportionately a bit wider than most real people, building at smaller scales such as 1:48 only increases the width impact. I've been building all of my trains in 10-wide for the better part of the past decade and can definitely assure you from experience that minifigures are in no way undersized or out of scale in comparison, and I've spent enough time in railroad museums and excursion trains to have a photographic memory that can automatically detect when something is out of scale. The main reasons most people build in 8-wide (or smaller) are practical ones, such as the ability to pack more in smaller/limited space, to have tighter curve and switch radii, to be able to utililize O scale components interchangeably and to be able to build more on a budget. If scale is really important to someone, and space/budget constraints are of little to no issue, it should be understood that anything other than 10-wide is a compromise.
  3. The track gauge is 37.5mm. If we assume 1 stud to the foot is approximately 1:38 scale (1:38.1 to be more accurate) and we compare these figures to Standard Gauge, which is 4' 8.5", we come up with an almost exact match. 37.5mm x 38.1 is 1428.75mm. Convert 1428.75mm to feet and inches, and you get 4' 8.25". It is what it is. Now if, for example, one were to build an 80' Budd streamliner coach to scale going by our calculations above, we can apply the 1 stud to the foot figure to an engineering diagram to get a width of 10 studs (10') and an overall coupler length of approximately 80 studs (80'). At this scale, a bald minifigure is approximately 5' tall, while a minifigure with hair is slightly taller, at roughly the same height as the average adult human. When placed next to or inside of trains built to 1:38.1, one will find that it is a highly proportionate visual representation of the human scale.
  4. I build my trains in 10-wide simply because 1:38 scale matches the gauge of the track. 1 stud to the foot almost miraculously seems to match up all the windows on passenger coaches to the prototypes and makes aligning details on diesels and freight cars simple as well. Everything looks "just right" and functions very well at that scale as long as you're using BrickTracks wide radius curves. Nevertheless, 1:38 scale isn't for everyone, and though I doubt it'll ever catch on and gain widespread popularity, it'll continue to be my primary scale of choice when it comes to all things LEGO.
  5. Aaron

    [MOC] 1:38 scale PRR 2-bay Hopper Car

    Absolutely! Here's a video demonstration.
  6. Aaron

    [MOC] 1:38 scale PRR 2-bay Hopper Car

    Thank you! I should mention that the decals are from Brick Model Railroader. They're actually a bit undersized for my hopper car, since they're designed for 8-wides which are about O scale (1:48). I did the best I could to spread them out though.
  7. Hello! Today I would like to present my 2-bay hopper car built in 1:38 scale (10-wide). This is my first time photographing using a lighting tent, so I apologize if my photography skills aren't perfect, as I'm still getting used to this. The decals are from Brick Model Railroader. PRR 2-bay Hopper Car (1:38) by Aaron B, on Flickr PRR 2-bay Hopper Car (1:38) by Aaron B, on Flickr PRR 2-bay Hopper Car (1:38) by Aaron B, on Flickr PRR 2-bay Hopper Car (1:38) by Aaron B, on Flickr PRR 2-bay Hopper Car (1:38) by Aaron B, on Flickr PRR 2-bay Hopper Car (1:38) by Aaron B, on Flickr PRR 2-bay Hopper Car (1:38) by Aaron B, on Flickr PRR 2-bay Hopper Car (1:38) by Aaron B, on Flickr PRR 2-bay Hopper Car (1:38) by Aaron B, on Flickr PRR 2-bay Hopper Car (1:38) by Aaron B, on Flickr PRR 2-bay Hopper Car (1:38) by Aaron B, on Flickr
  8. Aaron

    2018 Lego Trains

    At the end of the day, I couldn't care less what sets they release as long as there continues to be a nice supply of wheels and axles available on BrickLink. And I'm surprised TLG hasn't made any of these in transparent blue or clear yet. They really need to get on it. https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=14718#T=C
  9. Some of the bigger LUGs that use grand curves would benefit from them. It would make assembling the curves easier, since the current method of using hinges and plates on straight tracks tend to pop apart if you aren't careful enough. And you'd be surprised, with a bit of creativity, what you can do with larger curves. Are you familiar with S-curves? Anyone can fit those on their layout, and R200s would work well for this purpose for anyone. Also, if your house is set up so that the basement is just one room, or the kitchen, living room, and dining rooms are connected in a circular fashion, even little kids could have fun with R200 curves. It isn't just people with bigger/longer trains who benefit, but those who want to run their trains at high speeds without derailments.
  10. The best deal I'm seeing on ebay for actual LEGO power functions track (not the cheap knockoffs) is $32.76 for 16 + shipping. As for myself, I prefer to get all of my straight track on BrickLink whenever I spot a really good deal. The next best thing is to just buy the straight and flex track packs, keep the straights, and sell the flex track. I've found that prices (for LEGO in general) on ebay are almost always way too high, which is why CrackLink BrickLink is my go-to place for all things LEGO. Anyway @coaster, seeing all these knockoff straight tracks lately also has me thinking that BrickTracks producing PF straight track might be a bad idea. There's just too much (cheap) competition, and it could take a lifetime before you see a ROI on the mold. Although I'm not seeing any third party 9V, so if you were to make any straights at all, your best bet would be to go with those since you'd have the monopoly
  11. Is the quality of those any decent though? Last time I bought Chinese knockoff tracks they were warped like hot dogs to hell and back again. The only use I could think of for them was for inclines, but I ended up just giving them away to my nephew since he's still a toddler and wouldn't give a shit either way.
  12. Aaron

    Santa Fe Super Chief MOC

    I was just floating the idea. I'm going to see what I can do with what I already have first before I spend any money on decals.
  13. I'd sell both of my kidneys to buy you the tooling needed for R200 curves. The only downside is that I'll have to tear apart my freshly ballasted R120s.
  14. Make the biggest switch you possibly can; like the Golden Gate Bridge, Burj Khalifa, Saturn V, or Brock Lesnar of switches. In fact, we may as well just call it The Mother of all Switches. My 4DBrix R148 crossovers are great and everything, but I want something bigger for my layout. Something greater than or equal to a #10 switch in real life. If you can do that I'll end up buying at least 20 of them over time.
  15. Aaron

    Santa Fe Super Chief MOC

    Vinyl decals, right? I could use some of those in dark red.