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johnnym

Eurobricks Knights
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Everything posted by johnnym

  1. I see! Oh yeah, I need something like that for the leaves of our walnut trees in autumn.
  2. That's what I also thought, when I noticed it on Rebrickable this morning. @Tomik: Cool looking alternate model, really nice what you accomplished with the available parts.
  3. Your trucks are always cool and functional and this one is no exception. But sorry for my ignorance, what is the function of this truck in real life? Is it for generating electric power or for processing water or else?
  4. Looks great! Good job with this alternate model. I also imagine it will look even better with the front wheel size on the rear axle. I recently did a few alternate models and I have to say, with the limited number of parts and limited variety of parts for an alternate build it's sometimes even easier to build a complete model than with the loads of parts available else. It's definitely easier to decide for one solution with a limited choice of parts.
  5. Well, it's a little complex - and I already lost the following written stuff once due to fat fingers - so let's start with the easiest one: the engine bay of the StarFighter is 9 studs wide, 6 studs long (-1 stud at the bottom to the front, 7 studs apart for the two axle connection points, +1 stud at the center rear end, 5 studs wide, +1 stud on each corner of the rear end, 9 studs apart) and has a head room of 6 studs to the top of the rollover bar the engine bay of the AMX 4 is: 1st layer: 11 studs wide, 9 studs long (-1 stud, 7 studs wide in the rear center) and with a head room of 1 stud at the rear and 3 studs at the front 2nd layer: 9 studs wide, 7 studs long (+1 stud, 5 studs wide in the rear center), 1 stud high 3rd layer: 9 studs wide, 6 studs long (+2 studs, 5 studs wide in the rear center, -1 stud at the bottom to the front, 7 studs apart for the two axle connection points), 2 studs high the engine bay of the attaccabrighe is: 1st layer: 9 studs wide, 8 studs long (7 studs widee at the front, 1 stud long) and a head room of 1 stud at the rear end and 3 studs at the front 2nd layer: 9 studs wide, 8 studs long, 1 stud high 3rd layer: 9 studs wide, 7 studs long, 1 stud high 4th layer: 9 studs wide, 8 studs long ( -1 stud at the bottom to the front, 7 studs apart for the two axle connection points), 1 stud high All the above mentioned engines and the V8 of the AMX 4 HE fit in all cars. The stock engines of the AMX 4 Turbo (I4) and Biturbo (V5) only fit in the AMX 4s.
  6. Great! Indeed, thought about that, too. Let me check, I don't have them in my head right now.
  7. Thanks, glad you like it! Wanna give an alternate engine of your own a try? I'd love to see that. The digital models (Studio files) of my alternate engines are available at no charge from Rebrickable, you can actually check them out directly in your web browser with the 3D viewer they use at Rebrickable or use their digital model as basis for your own creations: turbocharged V6 engine turbocharged V8 engine twin-turbocharged I3 engine
  8. Instructions for the MDB attaccabrighe are now available from Rebrickable. Those are for sale, so hopefully I don't disappoint someone with that, but the effort I usually put in premium instructions is considerable. Plus I created a sort of sporty trim for it to smooth out the shaping and get some "real" wheels on it, 42093 unfortunately fell short in this regard. BTW, if you're still wondering about the name, attaccabrighe is Italian for brawler, think of Bud Spencer... Here are a few pictures showing the SC package on the attaccabrighe. The rear spoiler and skirts really make a difference IME:
  9. Indeed, you're right, you actually stated the different size fact first AFAICT, so congrats to your good eyes . Sorry, it was already late yesterday...
  10. After again checking the 360° video, I agree that the follower gear is bigger than the driver gear. Good eyes @Zerobricks, good eyes! IMHO one can see it as soon as the follower gear starts to be visible, if the driver gear would be of the same size, it would also start to be visible at this moment, but is still hidden. So much for the "dumb" recoloring.
  11. Actually I wouldn't have a problem at all, if TLG would produce pins and other connecting pieces in the whole color palette apart from sets, preferably in packs of hundreds or so. But I got used to the different colors since restarting this hobby after my childhood and I for example find the color difference betwen 2L and 3L pins really useful when digitizing a model. I just makes it much easier to determine what part is used in some cases. But what I didn't like for example was the move from the original pin with pin hole to the new mini-friction part (i.e. 15100 => 65487). The gull-wing doors in my 42093 alternate model only work right with the old pieces, the new ones don't have enough friction to keep the doors up. Good thing that 42093 still came with the old pieces. Sorry, way off topic now. Still don't see a reason to make orange 16 tooth gears, well, maybe they stand out much more then, what a success.
  12. I was more thinking of 2L pins, because - ahm, ahm, ... oh yes - the old/new black 2L axles look so similar.
  13. Indeed, I mean we could just have stayed with the LBG ones and be happy...
  14. Well, red would also be too similar to the clutch gear, that could have unforeseen consequences....
  15. Thanks a lot, that comment made my day! You're welcome.
  16. Agree with that, it looks pretty clear in the video over at lego.com at around 2 seconds into it.
  17. @Void_S: Ok. thanks for the clarification. As already said, very interesting stuff. You might wanna have a look at the police interceptor above. It has a more realistic setup and a diff. I'll get some pictures up sometime in the future.
  18. I fully understand, I'm also not in big models, but probably because I'm missing the patience, though I can invest weeks in modfying existing models of mine. But the first protoype must happen in hours. Not sure how this fits together. That's cool, I wasn't fully sure, because - well - they're really wide. I painted mine black, btw there are also yellow ones available - well, at least they don't yellow! Actually I wanted to propose a smaller tractor, but then thought, well, the Atmos is not really a huge tractor - at least not from the looks IME. But a really small tractor like the old after-war German ones (Fendt, Deutz, Porsche, etc.) with a little less functionality (PTO should be a must) and maybe even w/o closed cabin but rollbar would be cool. The new 49.5 x 14 truck tyres could make nice front tyres, but for the rear I'm unsure. Can't really suggest any of the attachments as I don't have a clue about such equipment.
  19. Great addition to the Atmos and lots of functionality and mechanisms - not that I understand too much of it - and not to forget: nice details. The size is also - let's say - handy. For the rear wheels, I would have suggested the old 68.6 x 40 tyres and matching rims because they have more rubber on their flanks, but yeah, they are 2mm wider than the front tyres and there's no rim available in light blueish gray, so no perfect match. But there is a rim in white available and I think white would also look good at the front. BTW, what's next on your list for the Thirdwigg Farm?
  20. @Void_S: Thanks for your in-depth explanations, very interesting stuff! About this one here: I suspect this is mostly likely relevant for high-speed driving? Because aren't there a lot of trucks that have their differentials at an offset from the center line of the vehicle? And I assume torque is much higher there than for sports cars. BTW, sorry for not coming back to you earlier, but spare time went into digitizing the attaccabrighe, which now allows me quick recolorings and hence a sneak peak at an early modification that will feature a VR6 engine: Sorry, the StarFighter is not yet digitized, so no dark azure front fenders for now.
  21. Now that's odd. I assumed from the front engine FWD cars I had in real, that putting the engine like that - transversal - in the rear would be the easiest thing for a RWD car. But as you said and what I read afterwards, in reality it's not so common, though there are quite some cool cars that had/have it that way (for example Lambo Miura, Honda NSX, Toyota MR2, Pontiac Fiero, etc.), but literature calls them rear mid-engined then. But why is that? Wouldn't it be easier from a mechanical standpoint to put it in transversely close to the rear axle? Well, maybe that's something for a modification or the aftermarket. I have to say I kinda like the black hood with the red stripes and I believe there's also no pin with pin hole in dark azure, yet, so this spot would still stand out.
  22. The 42098 alternate model - actually only made from the parts of the blue car that came with 42098 - is ready. This one became a very simple - no-bullsh*t - track car. So no windshield, no doors, no roof, no engine cover, just pure driving experience. Presenting the McKall StarFighter - also known as the pocket rocket internally at McKall. The car features HOG steering with a 20 tooth gear directly attached to the steering axle - yeah, it's a little primitive, but it also avoids a visible steering knob ruining the shape of the body. The stock turbocharged I4 engine is of course swappable. The big V8 engines fit snugly, but fit in: Of course I cheated a little and show it using wide wheels at the rear whose black rims are not part of 42098 and also not part of the blue car's inventory, but manufactures usually show their cars with extras on, so what.
  23. Thanks for your kind words, I greatly appreciate that from you @Thirdwigg. Well, there's already a third car with similar functionality - the police interceptor - but having its engine at the front makes its engines incompatible with the AMX 4s or the attaccabrighe. But due to having five crank pins by default, I5 and V10 are possible without changes to the car, although the engine bay is much smaller compared to the rear-engine cars, limiting the details. A bigger scale for such functionality would surely be better. So maybe it's time to make something similar in the scale of my Turbo Racers, but I also want to give the car from 42098 a try, though the available parts for the car alone are even less than available from the Corvette.
  24. Thanks guys! Despite what people say about its rear axle construction, the missing differential in the 42123 McLaren Senna really allowed for some rethinking. I have to give the creator of this set credit for that, and also the people that started the 42093 scale cars. BTW, I also created a video showing the AMX 4 Turbo on a dyno-like machinery and might come up with something similar for the attaccabrighe in the future:
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