dellock6

I tried it quickly, it's below 50€ before shipping from 5 sellers, if you go for used parts, so it could be cheaper to buy the parts. If you think about it, the three sets are 1052 parts, and the chassis is 571/572, so there are a lot of "wasted" parts. The sets are just a quicker way to build it, and TLG did a good job from their point of view to increase the sales of those sets with this "trick".

You mean it's wrong on purpose so nobody can say it's an F-35? Uhm, it makes sense indeed, but still it's ugly to see :)

Even without the fan, the shape is totally the one of the F-35. What I don't like are the wings, they are totally undersized in comparison to any aircraft, even if it's designed to be a generic plance, proportion should be correct, this one has not enough wings surface in my opinion, seems "wrong" by just looking at it.

Well, I'm actually watching my mailbox for the 3 sets ordered on Bricklink , since as usual local shops prices are way above what I can find online, even with shipping. I'll build it as soon as they arrive, probably even before the original set. As others said, I would have never bought those sets if it wasn't for the chassis.Thanks for the pictures, it looks really nice, I'm ok not having 100% appearance as the original one, is a tribute in my opinion, not a replica. There's surely a lot that can be modded, so I'm expecting many to do so anyway. I would have had probably the seats completely red, but I see from the leftovers that only a few red beams are left, surely the designer had to chose for some compromises to limit the usage of those three sets.

I think that the "lack" of additional features like front suspensions and others is ok in this case, as the model should be as close as possible to the original one, who didn't have those. I ordered yesterday the 3 sets, I was waiting june-july to buy them as I thought as everyone that the instructions would have come out on August, by as a owner of the original one back in the days, I HAVE to build this new one. Thanks for the first impression, can't wait to see the complete build.

Premise: I'm posting this in the technic forum as the design is made with technic parts. If moderators believes this post is better in another section, please move it. Hi all, newbie here. I'm Luca, from Italy, and I've lurked a lot these forums in the past. I'm mostly a technic fan, but I also have some interest in other LEGO sets, and lately "thanks" to my kids we wanted to start collecting some minifigures. Immediately, we realized that a frame to hold them would have been a nice and practical thing to have, so I searched around a bit. After a while I've found this one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lm9bX4aFVlI. The idea of hacking an IKEA frame and have the structure made with LEGO obviously hook me up, so I found the PDF instructions and ordered the pieces on BrickLink. The display is built and we are starting to fill it as we buy new minifigs, but I immediately noticed a few problems that are quickly becoming annoying. First, the height described in the instructions is slightly wrong, I had to remove one 1x2 plate from the top to fit into the IKEA frame. But probably the biggest problem is the insane fragility of the solution: it's impossible to build it outside of the frame, because any try to raise it breaks it immediately. But also when the frame is in place, when I go to mount the minifigs, the structure bends a lot and the studs of the different plates pulls off from time to time. It feels like it's kinda ok to fill it in one shot like the guy did in the video, but it's a sort of "don't touch it after it's build", which I don't really like. Since I've started a month ago to learn Stud.io, I tried to design a frame using only Technic pieces, in order to have something more reliable and close to my taste. I can't really see all those studs... )yes I'm more a studless guy). Here is my first attempt: I still have to build it, as I'm missing many pieces, but before even thinking about shopping for the missing ones, I'd like to get help for a couple of doubts, mainly related to the price. Black is one of the few colours where all the visible pieces are available, and it's the same colour of the IKEA frame, but the final price on bricklink (without shipping) is 110€. As a comparison, I bought the pieces for the original frame with 50€ included shipping. I tried a couple of other colours to reduce the cost, for example if I make it light bluish grey the price goes down to 70€, but I'm not sure the visual effect is going to be that great, counting the fact that the IKEA frame is available only in Black or White. If anyone has any suggestion, also by replacing some of the pieces with something cheaper, I'm all ears. Even if in all honesty you think it was a good exercise on a computer but I should never build it for real :) This is the xml part list: http://bricksafe.com/files/dellock6/technic-minifigure-stand.xml Thanks, Luca

Ok, I've reworked the entire design following the suggestions from @M_longer (huge thanks!) and here is a design that is more close to a final version I think: Each half shelf can store 6 minifigures, so the infrastructure can have up to 84. Here is a detail of the construction: The upper shelf is much higher than the others, so it can eventually be used to store some oversized minifigures like Hulk or others. The price for the set is around 68€ (before shipping, with 3 stores in european union) on BrickLink, so I'm quite happy already with the result. The highest price is for the Black Technic bushes, I could use a more common (and cheaper) color but the final result may not be the same.

Well, your comment made me think, and I tried a different approach, using the studs for the shelves, here's a quick design: I coupled two different technic bricks, 14L and 16L, with a 7L thin liftarm in the back (can't be seen but you see the four 3/4 pin) . In this way the sum of one side is still 30 studs, and the central axle gives me again the 61 studs that I need. I'll try to build now the entire frame to see how it goes, I found a way to level the central axle with the outer ones, using a 5.5 with stop. It is a much more simple solution, so probably is also going to be cheaper. Luca

Ops, sorry I misread it. It may work if I place one under the liftarms instead of the 6L thin, but the two unused holes are going to be filled with two 1/2 pin to then place the minifigs in position, the studs of the plate are going inside the hole, so there would be no place anymore to insert the pins, isn't it? Unless there's a pin that is 1/2 on each side that I'm not aware of... I know that going studfull would have helped, but I really prefer studless.

Hi, thanks for the input. I totally agree about the 1/2 bushes and the 1L round connectors, I'm looking for some alternative designs. I'm not sure about the switch between thin and thick liftarms for linking the two 15L liftarms, indeed it makes the structure stiffer, but I'm planning to place minifigs under them, so half stud can make quite a difference. Great advice about the 5L technic plate, I can place two of them, below and above (flipped) the 15L so I remove the pins and the 1/2 bush, good spot! I'll probably replace the 1L round connector with a bush. Also, there's nothing like building for real by the way, I tried to quickly assemble a part and I figured out a major (facepalm) problem, I totally undersized the height of the shelf: Loki is not happy as it had to put away his helmet! So, I quickly replaced 6L axles with 8L axles (if you have taller minifigs by the way, it would be easy to use longer axles), added another layer of 2L round connectors, and now it's much better: Loki is still not happy, one of my kids lost his helmet somewhere :) Also, you can already appreciate one advantages of the 1 stud deep shelf compared to the original one: if a minifig has any accessory that is higher than the single floor, you can simply place it vertically and it will easily go below the line of the shelf. I also replaced two 3L thin liftarms in the block with a 32184, less pieces and easier to build probably. I'm also thinking about replacing the 2L round connectors with bushes, so that there's no difference between them and the ones with direction. Back to the design board :)

I have two different lists, as I'd like to buy back two sets I used to own many years ago now that I'm back from my dark ages, 8851 and 8860. Among the new ones, I'm after the EV3 Core and Expansion Sets, and then 42009 and 9396.

They are there most of the times, just hidden from the interface. For example, almost the entire set of Power Functions components is hidden too. I found this tutorial (http://forum.bricklink.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=419&sid=ea4c15443b891eb5eba5ddaf4672d338#p963) that explain how to un-hide the different component, a bit cumbersome but it does the job. Not sure however which consequences there may be by unhiding, for example on the collisions engine. It worked for me tough to enable some PF engines and some rims.

Bellissimo! Can't add more to what others have said already, and would love to see the instructions. Even if probably 8000 pieces will be out of my budget at the moment, but would be amazing to build and play I'm sure. Luca

I join the list of people giving kudos, this is indeed a great MOC! Among the little things in it, I really like the technic figure :)

Hi, I'm studying this clutch myself for a project, and the youtube video posted before is really useful to understand both the behvior and the pieces. Probably the only one that is not so immediate to find is the wheel, but I believe is the part 60208: http://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=60208&name=Wheel 31mm D. x 15mm Technic&category=[Wheel]#T=S&O={"ss":"IT"} I'm designing the clutch on stud.io but sadly it has not this part (not even any Power Function piece, which is annoying) so I cannot test the alignment with the rest of the pieces. Luca