anothergol

Eurobricks Knights
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About anothergol

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  1. colours

    Trust me that for old dark grey vs DBG, you know. The difference is simply obvious, if it looks brown (it's not, but it really is grey, it has no blue tint at all), then it's the old grey. Here, top-left are LBG, because they're blue. Leftmost is slightly darker (less drastic for this one. Also interesting that the stud with the injection mark says "L O"), but it's the correct blue. Rightmost is old grey, and the difference isn't that striking, it definitely often confuses sellers, like for this one since I had never ordered an old grey one. This is also the old version of that part that you can't fully put on a plate, that's the reason I got an old grey one, there are much more chances for those parts to be old grey. But for the dark grey shovels there is just no comparison, one is a lot more blue. If you put your part next to a proper DBG and one looks brown, then it's old grey. If not, it's just darker by mistake. Of course parts can also yellow, but they never do from all sides so you know when they are. And then there is also "very light bluish grey" which is a legit color. And you also have old 4mm pneumatic tubes that many sellers sell as "DBG" which are actually black with a blue tint and nothing like proper DBG.
  2. colours

    There's a much bigger difference between dark grey & DBG, than between light grey & LBG, though. Dark can't be mistaken, while the LBG ones can be hard to tell apart. & I have LBG parts that are noticably darker than normal, so yes that can happen. Look at the LBG wedge plates that make the "grille" at the back, the middle 2 ones are noticably darker, they came from BL & are legit, and aren't yellowed.
  3. The only method I've tried so far is essential oil (it was eucalyptus or tea tree, can't remember), and I wouldn't advise it as it got rid of the print but also burnt the plastic (totally lost its shine). Besides, the print wasn't there anymore but a "relief" of it was still visible. I have a magic eraser, never thought of using it for that. Will have to give it a try. I'd also advise against that "restore clear parts using Future floor polish", as I've ruined half of the parts I tried it on (& it worked "ok" on the others, but nothing magic). But perhaps that's because that product exists under several forms & rebrands, and maybe I got the wrong one. Mine wasn't clear at all, and the stuff that wouldn't drop off the ruined parts was the same beige as the liquid. So if it's not the clear version, don't use it.
  4. film-free waterslide decals?

    So I have contacted Steindrucker and I now know that I got my artwork in the wrong direction. I thought I'd go for transparency for shadows, so that I'd put less ink on the tiles and they would keep their original "shine". That is, I'd rather have a tile covered in halftoned black, rather than fully by grey, also because I'm pretty sure it'd be hard to match the part's base color with the printer's ones. I could half-tone the shadowing myself of course, but there's a chance it's gonna go wrong the closer I get to the printer's DPI. I fully understand that pad printing needs every color solid, though. Anyway, I know what I need, now the question is still who & at which price.
  5. I know this thread is pretty old, but, even today I can't find any reliable chart. I know the printing industry relies to CMYK, and that I could trust these as well as Pantone colors, but.. 1. if I just take the black, things are already wrong: -charts usually report it as Pantone "Process Black C". Looks pretty fair. But then they list it as 1B2A34, like in the first chart in this list, & plenty of places. That doesn't look right at all. It has a strong blue tint, I'm not seeing Lego's black as blue (that, or everything else that's black in my house, is actually blue). Starting from that, hard to trust other colors. Perhaps 1B2A34 looks right in some Pantone color profile that I'm not finding? (if there is even such a thing, not in Photoshop that's for sure). Even if that's true, using that blueish 1B2A34 to display Lego black on a web page still looks pretty wrong. 2. even in apps, like Lego's own LDD, and Stud.io, the colors can be way off, and very different from each other. Pretty weird that all those sources can't agree on colors.
  6. film-free waterslide decals?

    Looks ok enough. I'm preparing my artwork, but I think I may have done some lines too thin for those printers. On the other hand I have the full side of an AT-AT head to illustrate on a 4x4 slope.. But I'll be happy if anyone can print this like in my quick mockup. I have already contacted steindrucker, which is a neighbor country (BrickSanity is a neighbor as well, though). I have 28 parts with 9 different designs, I guess that pretty much prevents pad printing. And that's by already making knee disks & leg pistons generic enough that I can repeat them. Steindrucker mentions 5760 x 1440 dpi printing btw. I'm not sure all of the parts in his showcase look like they're ultraprecise, but some definitely do. (most are cheesy but hey, it's not what I'm judging). Those UV printers have much lower precision for lines, if I understand it correctly? Which is where that weird banding comes from?
  7. film-free waterslide decals?

    Ah cool, that's one I didn't know. And his printing looks pretty good, actually. No visible banding & high-res.
  8. cool! What could be the difference between 31493 and 32064? I mean I get it that Lego does new molds, but if there is zero difference in the model, I wonder why it was included.
  9. film-free waterslide decals?

    Yeah but digital printed tiles, at least how they're shown on such websites, generally look like very cheap printing, with low DPI and visible banding. On the other hand, minifigs.me's showcase looks better, perhaps because the other 2 websites try doing photorealistic stuff that (doesn't look really Lego, and) look pretty bad. That said, I only need printing in black, so maybe digital printing will be a good enough solution. I also need to print these, but maybe it's not flat enough for a digital printer.
  10. Looks like this company makes film-free waterslide decal paper... and that looks pretty interesting. However it's based on heat to remove the film. While putting Lego parts in an oven is undoubtly unsafe, I wonder about hair-dryer. Has anyone used this yet or anything similar? What's a better option? They have ruboff paper as well, but it looks even more hard/boring to use (for someone like me who'd just want things done). I wanted to get some tiles custom-printed, but they all require large batches, while I have quite some parts to print differently for a MOC. Then I checked decal paper again, even though I don't much like like decals either because of the sheet's reflection that's different from the part's reflection, the transparent film often shows on camera. Looks like this type of thing would work well in theory? Edit: what scares me is the comments on those things, saying they don't work well. I so wish there was an easy way to print tiles.. Last year I had contacted a company that told me they had no problem printing Lego parts... until I clarified that I didn't wanna 3D print parts, but print ON them.. and they replied they couldn't do that. We're in a world in which it's easier to 3D-print a Lego part than to print on it.....
  11. I've pretty much found most of the 2017 parts I know of, except 2x2 wheel trims. But no trace of any 2018 part. Also old bugs are still there, like axles not fully going into the new macaroni's (and 92692 doesn't look like it has been fixed, will have to check closer). Still an excellent update.
  12. I'm finding pretty much all of the 2017 parts I know, that's very good! No 2018 part, but that's ok. Couldn't find the 2x2 inverted round slope, but it can easily be done using 1x2 ones. No new flower but they're not necessary. No 1x2 round plate with hollow studs, but we can fake these using 1x1's I guess (they would have made things way easier though).
  13. Patch doesn't work, but you can go to the website & download LDD again. And whoooooohooooooooooooooooooooooo! NEW PARTS!!!!!!! I can already see the 2x2 quarter-circle tile, so.. NEW PARTS!!!!!!!!!!!!!
  14. Painting models to make them more realistic

    While I have seen some weathered MOCs that looked pretty good, IMHO you're a bit missing the point of this "form of art" if you paint your MOCs. That is: if it's the end result, and not the way of getting there nor the rules that matter for you, then you should invest time in 3D modeling and a 3D printer, because that's what will give you the best results, by far. If you paint (or glue, or cut, or abuse in other ways) your Lego's, then I'll be judging your MOCs differently, they will have to be much much better than "normal" MOCs to impress me. I'm ok with this one, for ex, because it does deliver. It had to be much better than a normal MOC because it bends the rules. And it is, so it's all good. I also remember a couple of painted mechs from the same guy, but I can't find them back.
  15. Best way to get lego parts

    The worst is those who require min $1/lot, while most of their parts are in low quantities not even reaching $1. Sadly often you need 1 rare part, and the only place left with that part is that one "min $100 order, min $1/lot" store :(