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ust60

From the TGV up to my three fat old ladies steam Part II

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Finally, the BR 23 The BR 23 of my fellow countryman Ben Beneke is well known worldwide.

The instruction has been made public, http://railbricks.co...og/br-23-001-l/ for example here Ben. It is I think a true classic. She was often copied, but also awareness Unconsciously, she was often template.

I am thrilled with the version of Thorsten Benter in its BR 23, working two old 9 volt motors, and are working very well. I also wanted. So my BR 23 is not a one to one copy. You should definitely remember the original. But they should also show my handwriting. that is the seven-wide boiler. I am very happy with it. If the motors are connected will be followed by her video.

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At this point, big thank you to Michael (efferman) for his help in the primary chassis

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Best regards Udo

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Great work ust60 ...the br23 was my first (terrible :angry: ) MOC ...on the contrary I think you have done a great work with your BR23 :thumbup:

In my opinion this steam locomotive is the icon of the german steam engines with its classic black livery and red wheels! :wub: :wub:

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Excellent work you could almost call the Br23 a model is looks a lot like it's real life version! congrats!

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Really, really neat indeed! I like the driving construction too, how does it run?!

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Hello Lego community,

Bull sh.. that engines built 9 volts do not have enough power. The BR 23 ride not really good. I need to order other engines at Bricklink.

Best regards Udo

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I notice your middle drivers are connected to the rods with a black friction pin... Try replacing those with the light grey frictionless pins, it may help your power.

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Hello forum community,

the "not running" BR 23, the next act on 14.04, new engines ordered four should be, to demand that all engines tested and operability are the seller a message sorry can only send three, one is broken, bul ...... But joy of 17.04, just in time before the holidays came in the mail, the extremely fast on the 14th ordered on 17 Delivered pointed three engines, this afternoon completed all obligations, finally time to take care of the motors, and installation to tackle and then this:

I actually made ​​the video just for the non-German seller, have already written him'm excited to see what he replies, whom he answers that, I get on PayPal actually back to my money?

Does anyone have similar experiences of you who so which ones?

Best regards Udo

Edited by ust60

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Does anyone have similar experiences of you who so which ones?

Best regards Udo

I tried using the old 9V motors for a locomotive I was building, due to their low rolling resistance, good torque, and amazingly low power consumption. They're also the motors I'm most used to using.

The weakness of those motors is that the magnet inside (as seen here) is quite fragile; a sharp impact can cause them to shatter. A motor in good condition should run smoothly and relatively quietly; you should be able to spin the shaft and have it freewheel for a while. If the magnet in your motor has cracked, there's essentially nothing that can be done about it; it's usually pretty obvious when the magnet has cracked, because the motor will have a lot more resistance than is normal. (Keep in mind that there are two versions of the motor (71427 and 43362), and 43362 has more rolling resistance than 712427, though not so much that you could confuse it with a broken motor.)

My advice to you is that unless low power consumption is a priority, you should use the Power Functions M motors instead. A single PF M motor produces almost as much torque as two of the old 9V motors, while also turning at a higher speed (see this comparison). The odd form factor (~ 3 studs x 5 studs x 3 studs) may make it tricky to work with.

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