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Hey Micheal,

How many sections does that crane arm have, 3 in total? The last section looks like there is room for one or maybe even two smaller sections inside, is there a possibility that you will make one or two more?? If you can make a way to fix the pneumatic cylinders the same way as on a real crane, it should be possible, if you can fix them to the crane with there top end. Would make a wicked but expensive knuckleboom crane together with the other craneparts you've made.

Edited by Dafgek81

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3 hours ago, efferman said:

here are some pictures

Hi Michael

Do you have any instructions or pics detailing the connection of the telescopic boom to the lift arm?

Many thanks. ?

Edited by Milan
Removed quoted images from previous post.

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@ddougie71 Welcome to EB!

Please don't quote the whole previous post, with lots of images. the topic becomes unreadable and cluttered very quickly.

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Hi Eff,

is it possible to make a new version of 20z double bevel gear with tooth aligned like in the photo on right side? On the left standard lego 20z gear, on the right my photo-manipulation of needed gear;) It would be also great if you could design those wheelholders to fit in 56x34 mm Technic Racing Medium Wheel :)

300x200.jpg

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Efferman just wondering what measurements do you use for your axle holes and pin holes, my axles and pin holes are always either too tight or too loose.

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a new idea for getting longer actuators

32993973434_200b0aa136_c.jpg

the above  one is retracted 15 studs long and has a stroke of 11 studs. Theoretical there is every length possible which fits into the printer. The Gearrack is moved by the new wormgear. With small Changes this actuator should be made by pressure molding

710x528_18333498_10784069_1491316128.jpg

 

https://www.shapeways.com/product/BG7BY8UBA/gearrack-actuator-v2

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I like Your 6-spook wheel design. Allready order 4 of that and great use with tamiya rally block tire.

But, only one probram. Why only have small wheel? I want large(8110,9398,42030, etc...) wheel same 6-spook design.

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@msk6003  Really exactly the same blocky design or better something like this?

33744159651_83f2ec707e_c.jpg

Edited by efferman

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2 hours ago, efferman said:

@msk6003  Really exactly the same blocky design or better something like this?

33744159651_83f2ec707e_c.jpg

Looks great but I want same design with original 6 wheel. thank.

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After about 5 months of having the CV-type joints based off 8880 I have finally broken one. I have used them with three of my RC's using hobby grade electronics and I noticed that the little nubs to hold the lego part were wearing thin and soon after I hit a rock in the middle of the road and it was the end of the road for that part (no pun intended) I am very impressed with the durability of that part because of how long it lasted, I was planning on buying more but efferman seems to have taken them off his shop :cry_sad:

33040402694_9ecaac3287_z.jpgCV joint by JJ2Sam, on Flickr

 

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19 hours ago, efferman said:

@msk6003  Really exactly the same blocky design or better something like this?

 

If you keep improving everything, what will be left of LEGO?

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Hi Efferman

Received your knuckleboom joint connector from shapeways. Have you any pics of how it is assembled?

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