Technique/trick to insert a small Technic pin inside a slope brick?

[kpstormie]

Hey guys, amateur LDD moccer here. I'm working on making one of my models into an LDD build for various reasons, and I've ran into some trouble. It's a mech that I am replicating, and I'm absolutely stuck as to how you outsmart the program to put a Technic pin into the back of a normal brick.

Here's a screenshot of the build for reference. I'm working with LDD Extended Edition.

Any help is greatly appreciated, I'm not sure if connections like this are even possible with LDD. Thank you.

[DOTM Shockwave]

I'm certain the connection you're trying to make isn't possible in LDD due to it being an illegal building technique.

The mech you're trying to make looks nice so far.

[kpstormie]

I'm certain the connection you're trying to make isn't possible in LDD due to it being an illegal building technique.

The mech you're trying to make looks nice so far.

Thanks for the compliments on the mech! It looks better in person, I just wanted to get a digital version for the instructions. I've seen some tricks that people have used to add illegal connections onto LDD builds, I was wondering if there was anything possible that could do what I've got here. If not, thanks for the quick reply, I've been stumped with this for about 30 minutes.

[Brawl]

I tried myself and I couldn't find any way to make the connection. Unfortunately LDD will remove any illegal connections anyway, without some kind of modification. You can simply reverse the cone, or use one of the small cylinders and run the flex rod through that. It won't be nearly as strong, but it should work.

Your mech looks pretty cool. I also like the one in you avatar. It reminds me of a Dibison.

[Calabar]

This connection is not recognized by LDD, but it is possible to place the pin using a scaffolding.

Take a look, for example, at my official set 5928 - Bi-Wing Baron (the connection of the propeller).

The parts will result not connected, so you have to pay attention when you move the built.

If you have difficulties to place it, please share the lxf file so that we can place it for you.

[Superkalle]

Well, it's more then "not recognized by LDD". It's a highly "illegal" connection from a LEGO system perspective. First the flanges of the blue pin will be in constant compression, damaging them over time. Secondly the connection is not very secure - the pin will easily slide out.

The solution in the 5928 Bi-Wing Baron on the other hand is different, because the flange of the Technic pin can expand into the cavities of the four holes in the "1x1 brick with four studes on the side".

So, in this case I wouldn't recommend the solution even if it would be possible to cheat in LDD and scaffold it in place.

[kpstormie]

I tried myself and I couldn't find any way to make the connection. Unfortunately LDD will remove any illegal connections anyway, without some kind of modification. You can simply reverse the cone, or use one of the small cylinders and run the flex rod through that. It won't be nearly as strong, but it should work.

Your mech looks pretty cool. I also like the one in you avatar. It reminds me of a Dibison.

That might be the best way I can do this, but it just doesn't look right on the real model. I'll try it on LDD and see how it looks. And yes, it is a Dibison! The mech I'm building on LDD right now is a Storm Sworder. Here's a link to my Dibison - http://www.flickr.com/photos/kylepeckham/9481840267/in/set-72157630954904456

This connection is not recognized by LDD, but it is possible to place the pin using a scaffolding.

Take a look, for example, at my official set 5928 - Bi-Wing Baron (the connection of the propeller).

The parts will result not connected, so you have to pay attention when you move the built.

If you have difficulties to place it, please share the lxf file so that we can place it for you.

I'll share the lxf file if I run into anything else, I'll just try flipping the cone around to replace that piece. Thanks for the "cheat," I'll see if the scaffolding technique will work.

Well, it's more then "not recognized by LDD". It's a highly "illegal" connection from a LEGO system perspective. First the flanges of the blue pin will be in constant compression, damaging them over time. Secondly the connection is not very secure - the pin will easily slide out.

The solution in the 5928 Bi-Wing Baron on the other hand is different, because the flange of the Technic pin can expand into the cavities of the four holes in the "1x1 brick with four studes on the side".

So, in this case I wouldn't recommend the solution even if it would be possible to cheat in LDD and scaffold it in place.

It's worth a shot, thanks for the explanation as to why it's not recognized, I was wondering about that.

[Calabar]

The solution in the 5928 Bi-Wing Baron on the other hand is different, because the flange of the Technic pin can expand into the cavities of the four holes in the "1x1 brick with four studs on the side"

You are true, I never noticed that.

As the shape of the bricks is the same, I thought the pin would connect in the same way. The 4 holes on the brick 4733 make the difference instead, because allow the pin to expand and clip.

@kpstormie

In your case you could use the half pin, in its short side it connect fine to the anti-stud of the brick 3005 (or 3665 in this case).

EDIT: ... Or maybe you cant, because you need the axle shape pin to connect it to the cone.

[Nachapon Lego]

You can use the red pin in my signature below, just kidding :-P

For real brick build without stress/compress bricks, you may ..

1 Use 2m cross axle + small piece of paper/rubber band,

2 Chang design use 1x2 slope.

3 Cut the 6587 crossaxle 3M with knob.

Edited September 24, 2013 by bbqqq

[Superkalle]

3 Cut the 6587 crossaxle 3M with knob.

Cut

Now, that's were I have to draw the limit

[Nachapon Lego]

Cut

Now, that's were I have to draw the limit

Let's try it!

lego cut by Nachapon S., on Flickr

[Calabar]

3 Cut the 6587 crossaxle 3M with knob.

Ahhhh blasphemy!

Jokes aside, I'm not a fan of disfiguring original LEGO bricks!

Anyway the problem is more related to the use of LDD than real bricks. And in LDD you can't cut a part!

Another suggestion could be to use the part 4081 to connect the cone and the slope.

It is a bit weak and add a 1x1 plate to the model as a sort of crest, but it should work.

[kpstormie]

Thanks everyone, I'll try some of these out. I've got most of the build finished with the exception of 2 pieces that aren't in the LDD Catalog (yet). I'll keep you guys posted as to if I figure out anything!