Mod: Emerald Night to Flying Scotsman

[Lazarus]

[Locomotive Annie]

Classic 'blood and custard' livery, - very nice

You'll be needing a train of about four of those at least to compliment your Scotsman.

[UrbanErwin]

Cool, but why are the coaches 8 wide and the engines cab seven

[Hrw-Amen]

Looks good. Yes need to have more coaches.

Quite often I will build an engine that has features such as cab structure of 7 studs wide but overall it is more like 8 studs in total. Theses can normally pull 7 or 8 stud wide wagons / coaches. In the real world bits do stick out on locomotives here and there so I don't myself see that as a big issue.

[Spitfire2865]

I just think it looks odd how the tenders are 6 wide and the coach is 8. Just looks off to me.

[Lazarus]

Ok so after looking at some real life pics the train and the tender at the same width at the coaches. But in saying that the front of the loco is already 8 wide and goes to 7 at the cab then 6 in the tender so you are right i should at least make the tenders 8 wide maybe the cab if i can keep the look.

[Spitfire2865]

I was easily able to convert my EN cab to 8 wide. And you get more space inside for details too.

So since this is based on the EN, it shouldnt be too hard for you, even with all the changes you have made already.

[Lazarus]

Also the coaches had to be 8 wide to fit 9v motors on and sink them into the base board. But i was ging with the flow and 40studs x 8 studs ended up being a very nice nice to get the scale right. I spent last night making none powerd boggies up this took a while as the 9v motors and a little off and hard to copy as i wanted all the coache boggie to look the same. But once i have extended the FS tenders and cab i will be working on a break van and also restaurant car.

so train will be FS>mk1 passenger>mk1 restaurant>mk1 passenger> mk1 break.

and i think that might be the same or longer than my Horzion, Also i am not sure how well 8 stud wide and 40 stud long will work on my bend on my layout haha.

[Lazarus]

And wow those windows are expencive. Any one though of a work around for them.

[FreeBee]

And wow those windows are expencive. Any one though of a work around for them.

Maybe this is a solution

[Flipz]

Looking at some pics of the real Flying Scotsman, it almost seems like the tenders should be just a plate or two lower than the roof of the cab, rather than exactly the full height as I first thought. Between that and the 8-wide modifications, I think that should make the tenders perfect.

Edited April 21, 2013 by Flipz

[UrbanErwin]

And wow those windows are expencive. Any one though of a work around for them.

there are two versions expensive and relatively cheap (used).

Edited April 22, 2013 by UrbanErwin

[mr_jrt]

I've been meaning to do this mod for a couple of years now...I "fixed" the tender to an 8-wide beastie right away, but stalled whilst trying to figure out the gearing to get two medium motors in the boiler (didn't want to lose the cab to the XL) and not have it rip itself apart :) Annoyingly, it never ocurred to me that the front of the boiler was wrong, but having seen your efforts, it so clearly is and I suspect that would've give me the room I needed to pin down the motors. Might pick this project back up! :) Thanks!

I do wonder if a better approach for the Emerald night might've been a dual tender loco with seperate coaches rather than just having the one and no reasonable way of getting more.

Edited April 22, 2013 by mr_jrt

[Lazarus]

I have removed all gearing from the loco and the wheel are just going to free wheel. it is hard to power this loco without killing the look or having to comprimise it. So that why i am making to coaches to be the power cards with 8 wide coaches it would be easy to do PF also lots of room and the PF motor is the same as the 9v in size. But once it has the 4 coaches on and the big loco i might have to go upto 4 9v motors to have it run easy with out over heating.the 9vs.

On my Horizon 2 9v over heat after about 20mins so i have been meaning to put a mix of PF and 9v on there using the power from the 9v motor to power the PF motor as they are only about $15 to but compared to like $50 for 9v

[Lazarus]

After few more hours work, i have mad the cab 8 wide and tenders. Also lowered the roof on the coach by one plate to match the height of the FS. From the photos you see the loco tenders and coaches are identical in height and shape i guess for streamlining.

But i think the loco is now complete.

Edited April 23, 2013 by Lazarus

[Spitfire2865]

Nice roof line. Looking really nice. Would love to see this in bricks.

[Lazarus]

Will work on getting bricks once the design is complete if no one else can find any faults i will start ordering parts.

[Lazarus]

Everything is down both powered and unpowered mk1 coaches, mk1 restarunt car and mk1 break.

[Spitfire2865]

Very nice coaches.

[CarrollFilms]

This looks just beautiful. But, one question. If you were to motorize it, what would you use and where would you put it; or is this just for display?

[Lazarus]

Check out page one, one of the coaches have two 9v motors and can add more coaches with motors if needed as i am not sure if 2 will do the job.

I have managed to make the bogies on the power and unpowerd ones almost identical and you cant tell them apart in the pics. but the first coach is the power car.

I though of a few ways of powering but this is the best way to avoid killing the look.

Also parts for loco ordered only cost $175 nz what is a bit costly but its about 1200 bricks the horizon is like 1400 and that cost me $240 nz so cost per brick about the same. I expect coaches to be about $100 a piece.

[Murdoch17]

Nice Flying Scotsman & rolling stock! I tried doing almost the exact same thing with my Emerald Night but could never figure out the tender.

Keep up the good work!

[zephyr1934]

Not only are the white windows pricey on the coaches, few folks have more than a couple of them. You should consider other window options, e.g., 1x4x3 transparent panels, perhaps with stickers to get the shape you want, or any of the more commonly available windows in white, e.g., this one.

As I mentioned earlier, I think you should redo the drive rods. The quickest easiest fix would be to replace the 5 long connecting rod (technic half beam) with a 7 long connecting rod. You could also use a technic axle and connectors to go longer than 7.

[Lazarus]

@ Zephyr

I do dislike any of the tecnic bits as connection rods, so i am only using them for temp now to do some test runs. Then will look at getting the nice custom rods.

Also one big downer from buy all my parts was the windows on the cab done come in lego green (dark green) so they had to be changed to black. I just hope it looks good when its all together it does not look as good as it did in green in LDD. The cheaper of the white windows are in a ok price i dont mind NZ $0.45 when i only need about 30-40 of them also these are from one of my main surplyers what is handy also save me on shipping.

[zephyr1934]

While I cannot speak highly enough about custom rods, I was not trying to self promote. The thing I dislike the most about the EN is the way lego did the rods (the connection point is all wrong) and I was trying to say that when staying 100% lego, one can do a lot better, e.g.,

After my post I was tempted to suggest doing the windows in purple (grin). Good that you found them in white at a reasonable price. The train looks good all together.

Now as for the cab windows, if you want to keep it green you might be able to snot 1x2x3 windows (60593) in green, perhaps with a window pane (3854 or 60608) stuffed into it. I don't know if the pane will fit or not, but it should be quick to find out. You would probably need a 2x2 tile on the top to attach it to the rest of the locomotive. Or you could build it out of bricks, snot a stack of 1x2 pieces together: green tile, green plate, trans brick, green plate, trans brick, green plate (from front to back) use the tile or the first plate to attach it to the body.