Lost_In_Noise

Pictorial Review: 8440 Formula Flash/ Hot Rod

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Formula Flash was released in 1995, contains 414 pieces, and features steering via in-cocpit wheel and a v6 engine driven by rear differential. The original retaill was $54 according to BrickSet, andI ended up paying $35 for my copy in used condition. This is one of the few Technic racecars, the others being the giant 8458 Silver Champion, and the latest addition 42011 Race Car.

The parts

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Rather than wheelhubs made of standard thin liftarms, plates with towball are used in this set.

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The flex system is used here for steering, containing two Ball connections and one Flex Cable End Double. The thin flex cables used are 6 studs long. When I initially bought this model, it came with the wrong flex cables, thus, the steering didn't work. It cost me 12$ on BrickLink to buy the replacements.

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Not a whole lot of gears in this set, only an 8T, three 12T bevel and a crown gear are present, along with a differential. A standard Steering wheel is the last "special" part of this set, except the wheels.

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The wheels are fat racing tires in 49.6x28VR dimension, which are fitted to white wheelhubs. They are also used in 8286 3-in-1 Car and 8445 Indy Storm. Even the 8479 Barcode Multi-Set has a pair, but they are only for decoration.

The stickers

Okay, here's the problem. There are a lot of stickers, and most of them are even STAMPs. Although they greatly enhance the looks of the finished model, there should have been another way of doing it. I've used a knife to split the stickers, but the end result is not as good as it should have been.

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Enough facts, let's build!

A model: Race Car

The main model starts with the bottom, made of bricks. The hinge plates are used to fix the angle of the fuselage, giving the car the typical "race" look. The thin liftarms here will keep the car together once the body is placed.

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The first half of the body is complete. Note the flex cable running through the 16L brick. The thin liftarms in the back will keep the

rear air intake manifold in place.

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The rear axle with the differential is place. The two thin liftarms (far right) with axle and pin connectors on them will later hold the wing in place.

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The V6 engine is made old-style; with bricks instead of Engine blocks.

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The engine is driven by the rear differential via the 8T idler gear.

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The wheelhubs are made the same way as 8455 Back-Hoe, which is easy and effective for the scale.

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Next is the body, which is shaped by using hinge plates. Now this is beginning to look like a real race car.

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Real race cars have some major-sized braking vents. This one even has adjustable(!) mirrors.

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Rear wing is made with half-pins and plates. A STAMP is placed on top.

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Adding wheels finishes the model. What a looker!

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Features

Steering(horrible) via in cab steering wheel. No HOG here, waste of precious weight.

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Engine driven by rear differential:

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Comparison

8209 Future F1:

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8216 Turbo 1:

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8458 Silver Champion (Okay, at least some of it):

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B model: Hot Rod

The secondary model also starts with the chassis frame. You can see the differential in the back, and the towball plates for the front wheelbase. This involves using the stickered 1x6 plates and the 1x3 bricks from the A-model. Let's hope those will glue on later.

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Rather than having a gear rack setup for the steering, it uses a technic cam at one end of an axle, with an crankshaft center piece on the other. As the set of thin liftarms are levered, the crankshaft center rotates.

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Some pneumatic tubing for exhaust pipes are placed for decoration, along with the upper part of what would have been a wishbone suspension setup.

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The engine is a standard Technic V6, same as the A model.

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The flex system is used for steering in this model also. The grille has been placed behind it.

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Here is a shot of the driveshaft. You can see how the differential drives the 8T gear via the crown gear on a free axle. The cocpit seats are made of black plates. It looks kinda dangerous to be sitting right next to the driveshaft. Let's hope the driver's insured.

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Lastly, placing the rear rollcage, windshield and wheels finishes the model. You'll notice I didn't apply the stickers. They're all STAMPs, and won't look good on the main model.

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Features

Steering with in-cab steering wheel:

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Engine driven by rear differential:

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Lastly, an in-cocpit shot. The blue round bricks do look like instruments.

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Comparison

8815 Speedway Bandit:

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8860 Car Chassis:

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Conclusion

This is my favourite Technic race car, as I am yet to try the new one. It looks as the real deal, and works like one. The fast spinning engine is a nice feature. For playability, it isn't as good, but as they say, looks outdo function. It's certainly more playable than the Silver Champion. As for the B-model, it certainly looks good. The functions are the same as the main model, only the motor placement is the opposite. The only difference is the stickers. How on earth are you going to re-build the main model after removing the stickers? I guess you could glue them on, but that seems like missing the point.

Thanks for reading/looking. As always, any questions or comments are most welcome!

Edited by Lost_In_Noise

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Very good review Lost_In_Noise, one of the few models I know of where the B model is almost as nice (or nicer!) than the A model. Will be adding this one to my BL wanted list.

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Thanks for the review!

I got this for my ninth birthday, and I really enjoyed the model. The red colour helped a lot, back then I was a huge Ferrari fan.

The overall shape is good, and the use of pneumatics as exhaust system is great. However, as you pointed, the use of STAMPs is a major disappointment. More printed pieces would be welcome (the "Octan" stickers at the front wing, back then the (white) patterned version was already available) and maybe the STAMPs could be avoided with tiles 4 x 4 in a SNOT way. Maybe like the rear wing.

Last year I saw a used set for sale, and while the stickers were all in place, I could clearly see the started to peel.

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I know I'm bringing this topic from the dead, but I just built this set from a Lego collection I bought at a garage sale. The steering flex cables were bought from Bricklink. The front wheels are not both facing straight like in this review. Is this normal for the set or did we do something wrong?

Here is the best picture showing how the front wheels don't align from above:

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I just went to take a look at my copy and the front wheels are not perfectly parallel. However, there is a lot of slop in the linkage so sometimes they can be straight.

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I know I'm bringing this topic from the dead, but I just built this set from a Lego collection I bought at a garage sale. The steering flex cables were bought from Bricklink. The front wheels are not both facing straight like in this review. Is this normal for the set or did we do something wrong?

Here is the best picture showing how the front wheels don't align from above:

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This is how the steering geometry is on real cars, except that the angle shoulded be toe-in and not toe-out. :wink:

toe.jpg

Edited by Chr.Maglekaer

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I have not seen any F1 car with toe-in/out but only straight "toe". Do you have information to suggest anything different?

If they do have a "toe", its' not something that actually visible (so it must 1-3 degrees), imho

But then, I'm not an F1 driver I just like to watch a lot of races :)

Cheers,

Ole

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All types of racing cars have some sort of toe. It is true that you probably can't see it on tv, what you can see is the negative camber angle.

Toe angle determines whether the car has easy to oversteer or understeer. It's the driver who helps to determine who must toe to run on the car.

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Hej Christian

I did some reading in between and learned a bit (lot actually). Yes, there's a difference between toe/caster and camber

I still don't know - or see why - "all types of racing cars" have some sort of toe. What would be the benefit? I know what toe means, but why would the car (F1 or whatever) be set up with that)?

MVH

Ole

All types of racing cars have some sort of toe. It is true that you probably can't see it on tv, what you can see is the negative camber angle.

Toe angle determines whether the car has easy to oversteer or understeer. It's the driver who helps to determine who must toe to run on the car.

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This makes it easier to turn the wheels during cornering and less / wrong tire wear.

Front-wheel drive cars have the best of the little toe out since it provides uniform tire wear on the entire tire width.

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It's the driver who helps to determine who must toe to run on the car.

Quoting you again, sorry ..

So, you say the driver can ask the engineering team to alter the toe angle? And that angle is probably way to small to notice on a telly, right?

Hmm. okay .. I did knew they could do that

Back to that 8440 review then :blush:

Still, it's a darn nice car, While not up to Technic standards, it's a proper Model Team for sure :thumbup:

Cheers,

Ole

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While not up to Technic standards, it's a proper Model Team for sure :thumbup:

Why is it not up to Technic standards? I think it has everything you can expect from a Technic race car of this size: steering, working differential and working engine. On top of that nice looks (although I wouldn't call it Model Team).

Or do you mean because of the toe?

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