RC Deck - Performance Power Supply With Radio Control

[NoEXIST]

50 minutes ago, Lixander said:

Also, even if it's a little off-topic, for the RC version you can sell separately a motor adaptor with the common screw holes distances (I mean something like a case with pin holes somewhere and screw and axle holes for the motor), being a similar process with the making of the case of the RC Deck (I think).

I consider this is one of the main problem (the motor adaptors), because there are some solutions for the differential, frames with ball bearings, wheel hubs and the U-joints, but the motor frames are usually given as 3D files or have a fixed/ restrained motor dimension.

For example, in my country, I can't find too many companies for 3D printing. About 1 of the companies is trustworthy and of that, 0 answers for the printing of the 3D file, most likely because the frame is too narrow at the margins 

You mean motor mount that is similar to a regular RC cars? I also thought about this can be pretty useful! But again, so much of a freedom requires some experience.

 

Also about different parts, I started my printing journey with wheels and hubs, I can create them together with decks

 

[NoEXIST]

10 hours ago, Ryokeen said:

@NoEXIST
Also in terms of power, PF motors are just not good. What 3-4 XL motors can do, one 540er motor can aswell, with at at least 10 times the rpm and it's actually only around the size of one XL motor.
Buuut having something where i can just plug in an receiver, a LiPo and motor(s) would be nice.

I would not suggest supporting brushless this early, cause those mostly very high(even 1000kv at 2s is almost 8k rpm) rpm need so many special/custom parts(bearings) that those ppl have already a sollution for all the electronics.

There are few solutions for the motors, but again outside of the EU. 

Brushless a2212 motor with printed nylon planetary reduction which is killing Lego parts constantly 

And Brushed 380er motor, which seemed pretty okay. One of my friends using it for pretty detailed cars on 56mm wheels. Everything is okay about this one, but it's using XL's planetary reduction, so it's dimensions are 5x5x9

[Lixander]

3 hours ago, NoEXIST said:

You mean motor mount that is similar to a regular RC cars? I also thought about this can be pretty useful! But again, so much of a freedom requires some experience.

 

Also about different parts, I started my printing journey with wheels and hubs, I can create them together with decks

 

Yup, I referred to a motor mount. I dont have the experience, but I will come back with a rough design.

Also, the wheels and hubs are a good addition :))) It would be nice if the hubs to have metal bearings.

 

Edited January 17 by Lixander

[NoEXIST]

11 minutes ago, Lixander said:

I dont have the experience, but I will come back with a rough design.

The experience I was talking about is that not every potential customer will be experienced with rc world. As we've talked about hub with only esc's inside is for more experienced users. 

[amorti]

2 hours ago, Lixander said:

It would be nice if the hubs to have metal bearings.

  

Not to take over the thread, but bearing hubs already exist, and they're very affordable.

https://tf-engineering.at/wheelhub/

1 hour ago, NoEXIST said:

The experience I was talking about is that not every potential customer will be experienced with rc world. As we've talked about hub with only esc's inside is for more experienced users. 

I can't count myself among this number.

So for me I'd definitely prefer a built-in receiver and you tell me which remote is suitable for it, so I order it from uncle Ali (or from you if you're willing to resell it as part of a package, and have already taken that risk of getting it into the EU customs area).

Even better if building the receiver internally, means it's smaller and/or easier to package in a model.

[NoEXIST]

34 minutes ago, amorti said:

Not to take over the thread, but bearing hubs already exist, and they're very affordable.

https://tf-engineering.at/wheelhub/

I don’t want to devalue other people’s work or hate anyone at all, don’t get me wrong, but the cost in relation to the prices of bearings and plastic is not unattainably low

36 minutes ago, amorti said:

Even better if building the receiver internally, means it's smaller and/or easier to package in a model.

Well, it won't mean smaller, but definitely more familiar form factor. 

[amorti]

1 hour ago, NoEXIST said:

cost in relation to the prices of bearings and plastic is not unattainably low

Not unattainable no, but if you consider not only the price of a bearing and printer filament as the home project guy would, but also cost/depreciation of the printer, R&D time, effort in packaging and shipping even if there's an additional shipping fee, blablabla... well, it's doubtful that anyone's going to get rich at 5€ per hub.

Anyway - back on topic. I am excited for your project/product, especially the RC-novice variant, and would like to be near the front of that queue.

I wonder if the scope is wide enough to do a kickstarter? Or if you'd be interested in such anyway.

Edited January 17 by amorti

[Lixander]

4 hours ago, NoEXIST said:

The experience I was talking about is that not every potential customer will be experienced with rc world. As we've talked about hub with only esc's inside is for more experienced users. 

Oke. Yeah, you`re right.

2 hours ago, amorti said:

Not to take over the thread, but bearing hubs already exist, and they're very affordable.

https://tf-engineering.at/wheelhub/

 Thanks for the link!

[NoEXIST]

2 hours ago, amorti said:

I wonder if the scope is wide enough to do a kickstarter? Or if you'd be interested in such anyway.

Actually I seem to be that home project guy, I'm not sure that I'm able to go this far with the production. Not sure of how much of an interest is there. Maybe in the future I have to do something to cope with count of customers

[NoEXIST]

Testing some of the components that already arrived. ESC (bottom one in the photo) and receiver. ESC seems to be nice under a bit of load. (comparing  to what I've seen on the forums) Waiting to test x4fm receiver. So far the biggest load I was able to test was 4L motors which worked fine.

 

Edited January 29 by NoEXIST

[Lixander]

2 hours ago, NoEXIST said:

Testing some of the components that already arrived. ESC (bottom one in the photo) and receiver. ESC seems to be nice under a bit of load. (comparing  to what I've seen on the forums) Waiting to test x4fm receiver. So far the biggest load I was able to test was 4L motors which worked fine.

 

 

How many cells does your battery have? 2S?

[NoEXIST]

32 minutes ago, Lixander said:

How many cells does your battery have? 2S?

This one is 3s 800mah 25c battery. I would say it's enough for small models, especially with ~20min charging. But definitely need bigger battery for large models 

[Lixander]

19 minutes ago, NoEXIST said:

This one is 3s 800mah 25c battery. I would say it's enough for small models, especially with ~20min charging. But definitely need bigger battery for large models 

I see. i asked because I burned 3x MouldKing buggy motors with a 2100mAh 30C 2S Li-Po, but I took out their thermistors. With the thermistors on, the motors wouldn`t run at all with that battery.

[NoEXIST]

11 minutes ago, Lixander said:

I see. i asked because I burned 3x MouldKing buggy motors with a 2100mAh 30C 2S Li-Po, but I took out their thermistors. With the thermistors on, the motors wouldn`t run at all with that battery.

Well, that's the question, what's the difference between BW motor and MK buggy motor. One of my friends tried to contact buwizz and ask about their motor components and compare them, but he got no answer. So I don't really know what to say in this case. BW seems to work okay, I don't have problems with it, but I also don't know if it's truly a full potential of the motor

[Lixander]

42 minutes ago, NoEXIST said:

Well, that's the question, what's the difference between BW motor and MK buggy motor. One of my friends tried to contact buwizz and ask about their motor components and compare them, but he got no answer. So I don't really know what to say in this case. BW seems to work okay, I don't have problems with it, but I also don't know if it's truly a full potential of the motor

Yup indeed.

Also, that is why I want to switch directly to complete hobby-grade RC electronics, including the motors.

Edited January 29 by Lixander

[Ryokeen]

5 hours ago, NoEXIST said:

Well, that's the question, what's the difference between BW motor and MK buggy motor. One of my friends tried to contact buwizz and ask about their motor components and compare them, but he got no answer. So I don't really know what to say in this case. BW seems to work okay, I don't have problems with it, but I also don't know if it's truly a full potential of the motor

That is always a risk when using 3s lipos as lego(and their motors, and compatible motors) are designed for 9v.
I think buwizz uses different protecting components as they buwizz 3.0 can deliver 3s voltage. So it would be a shame to burn out your own motors with our own product.

Btw. i have the same dumboRc receiver (and the matching transmitter) and that shows why i suggested having the receiver external. You sure got 6 channels, but with gyro the 6th channel can't be used. Then you only got 2 proportional channels and from what i know the dumboRC receivers are if only compatible to similiar radiolink hw.

[NoEXIST]

1 hour ago, Ryokeen said:

So it would be a shame to burn out your own motors with our own product.

I'm aware, but not really scared of it as I also consult with my friends who have been doing similar things for several years and tried almost everything, but weren't interested in pushing it into a product... And most of the cases says that the problems starts to appear when you're trying to switch to a cheaper motor solution from Ali. But it's not always the case, sometimes it is about thermistors and capacitors in these motors. One of those friends burnt 2 esc's because of black L motors from Ali. They didn't have capacitors, so sparks from the motors went to the ESC (that was pretty strong as he used 6 of these motors in one model).

The only thing I really think can end badly is connecting PF servo to a 3s battery. They seems too "fragile" even with standard voltage.

For the PU motors it might work fine as they will get higher voltage on it's motor only. "Smart" functions of these motors have to be connected to something like Arduino if we want a PU servo. 

In the end safety is first and I'm not forcing people to use 3s lipo's. In my opinion  it's even better to have higher current battery with less voltage. I did a research about how can custom Lego compatible motor look like and in case of small brushless motors it's even better to have 1s battery as it has too much rpm. (Ofc in Lego, RC models seems to be able to cope with that) The problem for this solution is that most of esc's are for at least 2s, not 1s.

In buwizz case it seems like the unit will cut off before the thermistors in motors (sometimes because it can't provide enough current, but it's a different story), can't be an issue.

I hope Czech post will give me an opportunity to finally take all the components and finally start a real progress instead of only talking about:)

Edited January 29 by NoEXIST

[Ryokeen]

No i mean in the case of a buwizz, would be weird for them to have motors that can burn out by using their buwizz 3.0 :D
Sometimes it's also the internal resistance, the collectors used and so on, you never know

[NoEXIST]

6 hours ago, Ryokeen said:

No i mean in the case of a buwizz, would be weird for them to have motors that can burn out by using their buwizz 3.0 :D
Sometimes it's also the internal resistance, the collectors used and so on, you never know

Oh, now I see:)

[ITSDEEKAY]

15 hours ago, Lixander said:

I see. i asked because I burned 3x MouldKing buggy motors with a 2100mAh 30C 2S Li-Po, but I took out their thermistors. With the thermistors on, the motors wouldn`t run at all with that battery.

I've been using RC components with 3s Li-Po using 4-L motors in my Land Rover and it has been working fine. It generates enough power for me to drive indoors and outdoors. 

Now the other problem I'm facing is the same as you. I've tried running dual buggy motors in my builds and in all occasions it would burn the PF plastics using 2s or 3s. The only scenario where I could run dual buggy motors safely is when I use the steering wheel hub with planetary gear reduction. 

[Lixander]

1 hour ago, ITSDEEKAY said:

I've been using RC components with 3s Li-Po using 4-L motors in my Land Rover and it has been working fine. It generates enough power for me to drive indoors and outdoors. 

Now the other problem I'm facing is the same as you. I've tried running dual buggy motors in my builds and in all occasions it would burn the PF plastics using 2s or 3s. The only scenario where I could run dual buggy motors safely is when I use the steering wheel hub with planetary gear reduction. 

Well, 3s Li-Po might burn the motors themselves in time, as the 11.1V is close to the maximum of 12V. Also, I didn`t managed to burn any PF connector, just one but because of a short-circuit from what I remember. In my case, the actual motors got fried and 2x of them had RC wires and connectors. Buuut all of the 3x buggy motors I burned had the thermistor removed. I tested a 4th one with the thermistor on and it wouldn`t work.

Anyway, from what I have heard, the L motors can cope with a RC system and have similar performances with the buggy motors.

And by the way.........nice set-up ;)

 

Edited January 30 by Lixander

[NoEXIST]

Finally a post with real update! Unfortunately it came out a little bit bigger than planned, but I want to say that I'll use every cubic centimeter of this deck, so it can't be smaller without selfmade PCB board

(There won't be any wires sticking out of the deck, just didn't desolder them so far)

[Lixander]

34 minutes ago, NoEXIST said:

Finally a post with real update! Unfortunately it came out a little bit bigger than planned, but I want to say that I'll use every cubic centimeter of this deck, so it can't be smaller without selfmade PCB board

(There won't be any wires sticking out of the deck, just didn't desolder them so far)

Looks much more promising in a real-life photo ;))

I hope everything will come out as it is supposed in order to finish the RC Deck. 

Edited February 2 by Lixander

[NoEXIST]

14 minutes ago, Lixander said:

Looks much more promising in a real-life photo ;))

It's really better to se a real photo, now it doesn't seem as big as it seem while you're looking on a 3D model:)

 

15 minutes ago, Lixander said:

I hope everything will come out as it is supposed in order to finish the RC Deck. 

I hope too. Thanks!

 

[Krxlion]

I am also looking forward into that project as well :) You are fighting the only nightmare I have with RC components in Lego, which is putting stuff in one or two cases with minimal visible wires :D