LordsofMedieval Posted December 26, 2022 (edited) I spent most of yesterday designing a Norfolk & Western S1A class and wasn't fully satisfied with it. There's nothing wrong with the end product, but I decided I just didn't like the engine as much as I initially thought. Today, I'd like to do something a bit more... uh... 'sexy' with a New Haven Y4-A 0-8-0. But they had weirdly-spaced drivers, and - being the anal creature that I most certainly am - I want to model these properly. The problem is coming up with a spacing solution that achieves the half-stud gaps necessary, but is still rigid enough not to break apart under the load of technic gears grinding inside it. This is my aesthetically-acceptable-but-probably-not-robust-enough solution: ... but I think it would just break under use. And I'm not willing to glue pieces. Can anyone suggest a solution that's not dependent on 2 studs to hold the thing together? I want to make this engine work, but clearly I need to solve this problem before tackling anything else. Thanks and Merry Christmas. Edited December 26, 2022 by LordsofMedieval Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Karle Posted December 26, 2022 (edited) Try using 1- or 2-hole Tecknic bricks for your journal boxes and plates for the upper and lower frame rails. American building practice used open frames not solid plates. The T-bricks will allow you to get very close to the axle spacing your looking for. Edited December 26, 2022 by Karle Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JopieK Posted December 26, 2022 28 minutes ago, Karle said: Try using 1- or 2-hole Tecknic bricks for your journal boxes and plates for the upper and lower frame rails. American building practice used open frames not solid plates. The T-bricks will allow you to get very close to the axle spacing your looking for. Yeah, maybe even the newer 1x1 bricks with cross axle holes. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LordsofMedieval Posted December 26, 2022 3 hours ago, Karle said: Try using 1- or 2-hole Tecknic bricks for your journal boxes and plates for the upper and lower frame rails. American building practice used open frames not solid plates. The T-bricks will allow you to get very close to the axle spacing your looking for. Okie, many thanks! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jtlan Posted December 26, 2022 I usually don't agonize over this -- off by half a stud is fine for wheel spacing, given the flanges are already so oversize. Plus, if you use a weird spacing, how are you going to attach connecting rods? Can you share the actual dimensions and wheel spacing for this locomotive? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Beck Posted December 27, 2022 It's also very important to mention that your design won't actually work IRL. LDD, allows headlight bricks to be placed next to other bricks with the stud facing inwards; however, IRL the stud extends beyond the brick by a very small margin. This means that you would have to file down the stud to make that connection work or find a new solution. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vilhelm22 Posted December 27, 2022 You could however, fix that problem using a technic brick 1x1x1 as a replacement for the headlight brick on the right. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Duq Posted December 29, 2022 Except... the hole in a Technic brick is slightly higher than the side-stud on a headlight brick... I agree with @jtlan though - you're giving yourself a lot of headaches later on with connecting rods as well as building on top of this chassis. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lego3057 Posted January 4, 2023 Hello Why not this one? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
