Phil B

[MOC] DB Class V 36

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18 hours ago, Phil B said:

VICTORY!

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Here is the final drivetrain powering this tiny shunter:

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Stud.io shows the old beveled gear hitting the motor, but in the real build there is a gap.

Here is a link to the video above: DB Class V 36 by Phil B, on Flickr

Simple and effective!!! Nice video too! :thumbup::wub:

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You have killed two birds with one stone: with this solution you haven't just solved the gear contact with the tracks but you've also doubled the velocity of the locomotive ...do I said right?

 

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48 minutes ago, LEGO Train 12 Volts said:

You have killed two birds with one stone: with this solution you haven't just solved the gear contact with the tracks but you've also doubled the velocity of the locomotive ...do I said right?

 

Yep, that should be correct. The gear driving the wheel axle went from a 16 tooth to an 8 tooth gear, so it should turn twice as fast.

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1 hour ago, LEGO Train 12 Volts said:

I can't see in the video if you've traction issue without o-ring. Do the locomotive slip for now? 

I have strips of bicycle inner tubing around the wheels on one side. When I had it on both sides it caused derailments. In the video the side with the tubing is not visible.

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4 hours ago, zephyr1934 said:

Nice! (and I just noticed your great solution for the ladder to the cab)

Thanks! Yes, my previous design worked, but didn't allow the rear axle enough movement to prevent stalling. So I had to improvise :) A two-tone 6L bar would have been ideal, but since I do not modify my LEGO pieces (except for some electrical wire cutting which will need to happen to make the power solution for this MOC work) I will not be painting this bar partially red.

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And she's done!

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Here is a video of her running back and forward on some track (click on image to play video):

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Occasionally, and only while going forward, she will stall and needs a small push to get her going. Haven't figured out why, but it is not a big deal as this happens infrequently.

To make all the electrical work, I had first wanted to use a cut-up PF-9V extension cable. Unfortunately, with the length of the cable of the IR receiver, and the extension cable length, there wasn't enough room in this little engine to fit all the wiring. I had to cut up the wire leading to the IR receiver. As I didn't want to permanently turn my IR receiver into a 9V-battery operated unit, I used some cut-up I2C cable to make an interchangeable connection. Here is a sample of how this cable looks like:

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The full electrical setup is shown below. To access the battery, the roof of the cab comes of, and the top of the engine hood hinges open. The 9V battery is inside, wrapped in black electrical tape as its bright yellow and blue colors were showing through gaps in the bodywork. The batteries are purchased from [url=https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BT4D99D]Amazon[/url], and they come 3 in a pack with a charger. These specific batteries have a stated 800mAh capacity, and deliver an almost constant 8.7V (most Li-Ion batteries only do 8.3V).

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I'm debating an OKBrickWorks order for some stickers, but otherwise she's done. Thanks for all your input throughout the design and build process!

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Very nice work! Amazing how you were able to get all components into such a small package! :thumbup:

11 minutes ago, Phil B said:

Occasionally, and only while going forward, she will stall and needs a small push to get her going. Haven't figured out why, but it is not a big deal as this happens infrequently.

Are the rods quartered correctly (90° offset left vs. right side)?

11 minutes ago, Phil B said:

I'm debating an OKBrickWorks order for some stickers, but otherwise she's done.

Well, I think you'll mainly need stickers with white lettering on transparent background for this locomotive. Now if you plan to build more models requiring that sort of stickers, it might be worth considering to buy a Dymo labeler and print stickers on your own. I'm very happy with this little tool.
(And no, I'm not affiliated to the company. :wink:)

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53 minutes ago, Tenderlok said:

Are the rods quartered correctly (90° offset left vs. right side)?

Yessir. The pictures were taken without moving the wheels, you can see the quartering right there.

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6 minutes ago, Phil B said:

Yessir. The pictures were taken without moving the wheels, you can see the quartering right there.

Ah, okay. Then I don't really know why the engine stalls...
Perhaps you could try with a traction ring on one wheel only. At least that's the way Märklin does it with 3-axle gauge 1 locos. :wink:

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13 minutes ago, Tenderlok said:

Ah, okay. Then I don't really know why the engine stalls...
Perhaps you could try with a traction ring on one wheel only. At least that's the way Märklin does it with 3-axle gauge 1 locos. :wink:

It only stalls infrequently, and only during speed rampup. I think that it mght just be a temporary lockup due to overcurrent protection.

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