Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'IR'.
Found 6 results
-
Hi All. I want introduce You our project. It's Lego Led kit prepared to 42043 Mercedes Actros, just watch what the result is and what I will introduce: As You can see it's controlled by LEGO Power Functions IR Remote Control (item no. 8885). It's supplied by Lego PF Battery Box. There are used two channels, 1ch is used for driving, lights will turn on automatic. 4ch is used to turn on and off programmed Led lights. First I will explain what is happen when you modify your model to be driving by lego PF. 1CHANNEL: When You first time move Your model the parking lights turn on automatic. 1. If You want to turn on right side You have just tu move control button right up to blinked for right. After You turn it blink 3 times and turn off automatic. For the left is, right channel down. 2. For moving forward You move left control button up, when leave it stop lights will turn on for few seconds (imitation car brake) 3. For moving backwards You move left control button down, reversing lights turn on, when leave it stop lights will turn on for few seconds (imitation car brake) 4 CHANNEL: 1. First time left control button up: Parking lights on; Second time left up: Xenon headlights on; Third time left up: Xenon headlights off; Next time: Xenon headlights on (program is running in loop until reset all 4th function) 2. First time left control button down: Beacon lights 1 program; Second time left down: Beacon lights 2 program; Third time left down: Beacon lights 3 program; Fourth time left up: Beacon lights 4 program; Fifth time left down: Beacon lights off; Next time left down: Beacon lights 1 program (program is running in loop until reset all 4th function) 3. First time right control button up: Hazard lights on: Second time right up: Hazard lights off; Next time: Hazard lights on (program is running in loop until reset all 4th function) 4. One time right down: ALL RESET. This is just my idea about what channel, which control button is responsible for some functions. It could be programmed differently, it depends on our mind :D It's not finished, We have to put it in small box, finish the connectors and produce some parts like PF connector. Remember it is IR so the range is not long. Sorry if I made some English Mistakes. -
Hi guys, finally, after 4 months, i got back to lego (so much work). I wanted to build smallest 4x4 jeep that will looks and drive good. I started to build smallest suspensioned 4x4 chassis. I was afraid of driving characteristics, becouse there were no space for differencials. However, i was really suprisend how good jeep drives. The turning radius is little bigger on carpet, but on floor, or ground it´s perfect! Jeep is driven by one XL motor witch gave a lot of strenght and speed (do not expect juping :D), but it´s a total snale. Both axle has supsnesions. (no springs only rubbers). However it´s greate to take it to the nature. Even snow is not problem for this beast :D The body is build as jeep, but not as any existing one. It´s just some jeep :). The body can bee easyly removed and replace by another one. So, what do you think? I will upload only 1 photos, but you can find more here: http://www.kostky.or...p?topic=43677.0 or here: http://tomashubik.cz/temp/lego_jeep/001.jpg http://tomashubik.cz/temp/lego_jeep/002.jpg http://tomashubik.cz/temp/lego_jeep/003.jpg http://tomashubik.cz/temp/lego_jeep/004.jpg http://tomashubik.cz/temp/lego_jeep/005.jpg http://tomashubik.cz/temp/lego_jeep/006.jpg I hope i will make some video soon. PS: Sorry for my english. Not nativ language for me.
-
Hi all, I've finally bought a 7897 Passenger Train, which I want to run alongside my PF setup. I haven't received it yet, but I'm interested if it's possible to route the power from the included: "white train chassis 6x30 with IR Receivers integrated battery (6xAA)" (see below pic from LEGO/toysperiod). through to a PF IR receiver, then to either the included motor or a PF train motor (preferably without a (permanent) physical modification). From what little I know about IR, the unit may have to be receiving an "ON" IR signal from the remote by 'line of sight', to work....so I guess my question is: Is there a logical/natural/clear/obvious/sensible way to bypass this? Thanks, LLL
-
Hello! Let’s start with a little introduction. About one and a half years ago, - thank to my growing daughter, who started to play with Lego – my dark age ended. Bought the 9395. I was amazed. New parts, interesting building technics... at least for me. The journey begun... I’m rather ’reader’ type, so not posting too much, but reading the forum almost every day. Working on a project, since last autumn, and when this contest came, I decided to build something (something different) Simply I could not choose, what to build. Another super car/excavator/ truck/tank/crane? No. There will be a lot of them. This train of thought led to the idea, that I should build something, what not going anywhere. Still not easy, but fortunately it came into my mind. Let it be a whirligig. Decided. So, my contest entry is a technic whirligig. Functions: 1. Rotating superstructure. (L motor, speed control with train remote a) 2. Main arm rising/lowering (XL motor - standart remote a) 3. Secondary arm moving ( L motor, - standart remote b) 4. Basket rotating (M motor - speed control with train remote b) It's still in progress. I received the last parts today. Hope that willl be ready till the deadline. Pictures at the weekend.
-
Howdy folks :) With the help of my children, I got back to Lego about a year ago, started to buy massively and then found my true purpose in life, Technic! ROLUG was a great help to me and I began to build various cars for local TT contests, then I found Eurobricks and I participated in the Bionicle contest, as well. Now, I consider myself a newbie in Technic and I mostly adapt existing models to my liking, but since recently I started to build my own MOCs from scratch. What I want to show you guys is my latest creation, an arctic exploration vehicle based on the famous Thunderbirds show, namely The Mole, in my own interpretation. This is my 2nd attempt at this, my first was ok for showing-off but could not actually move well on snow (lol), so now I am rebuilding it, with performance in mind. I am basically building a high-profile tank with a huge drill in the front and another cool function which I prefer to keep secret, until it's working as I want. My personal goal is to drive it head on into a snow bank and to pass through it like butter! (we can all dream, no?) See the photos below and let me know what you think. Any suggestion or comment is welcomed, thank you all for watching. If you are curious to see more photos and also what I have built so far, feel free to head over to my Flickr page. Enjoy :) https://www.flickr.c...th/16439896211/
-
Hello everyone, Has anyone successfully motorised model 8880 Supercar? I am looking for a design which has an XL (or L) motor for driving and a M motor for steering, with one IR sensor and any battery box. If necessary, I could sacrifice (or simplify) the gearbox. John
