Commander Wolf

Thanks for your reply; is that 3 speeds/angles including stop/neutral? ie stop > slow > medium > fast or just stop > low > high

Hey all, I have a question about the x1623cx1 Receiver Unit: how much granularity is there in the output for the drive motor and the steering mechanism? Is it just on/off and left/right or can you can actually make small adjustments? I tried looking on Youtube but all of the videos are just people doing donuts and not very helpful. TiA. EDIT: Sorry if this is the wrong section; I just noticed there is "Racers" under the Special Themes forum.

Yay, steampunk! This is really cool in a really strange way. The one thing that really strikes me is that your loading gauge is enormous... but maybe your world just has a really wide right of way with no tunnels XD

There's another thread that hints at a possible replacement for the internal motor, but I don't know if the OP actually tried to buy it and install it.

Are these modeled off of anything or just loosely based? They look good nonetheless! It's nice to see people focusing on stock as well as locomotives.

They're definitely worth almost twice MSRP right now if they're MISB, but I don't actually know how worthwhile it is to part them out unless you specifally want some of the parts.

Lovely model again, and you even built two! I'm not a big fan of what you've done to the bogies, but I realize you need to compromise if you want it powered. I especially appreciate what you've done with the windscreen area; that sort of shape is really difficult to get right!

I didn't even know this part existed until just now, but I second it! I think it'd work fantastically.

The body is very nice, but I think the wheels are a little too close together... the spacing on the blue unit looks a little more accurate.

This is really a lovely model; I can't think of anything I'd change. It's a little disappointing that the driver doesn't seem to be functional (in the traditional sense), but I couldn't think of a good solution to that either. Nice job!

Forgot about this thread! I'll throw in a handful of recent stuff: Trains! Space! Anime! (bonus points if you know the characters!) And a little older painting from reference: ... til next time!

Yeah, these are all very impressive for sure. I especially like the way you've done patterns in your windows and walls; I don't think I've seen that before!

I love the compactness of the motion and the greebles you've done, but ditch those ladders! They are way too big!

Hmm, how does it look with the rolling stock? The 6-wide stacks seem like they might be disproportionately wide/tall, but it's hard to tell without putting 2 and 2 together.

Awww yeah, I see the remains of a 6991 Why is it so slow? Is it just really heavy or something to do with the PF stuff? I definitely remember my monorail running faster...

Yeah, these are what I was talking about when I said "L-panel". Do they make taller ones of these yet? Like 1xNx2? Here's what it looks like in my 5AT: The yellow part is all 2-wide sitting on 4-wide bogies. The black parts are the 7-wide stuff that's mainly just connected on top and at the ends using the jumper plates. In the red thing in the bottom studs go into the holes on the underside of 2xN plates to make the offset. Same deal in the loco: The structural backbone (the yellow part again) is just a bunch of 2xN bricks. The boiler is 4-wide and can thus connect directly whereas the 7-wide running boards and cab are only connected at the front and back.

The extra 4 studs really helps proportion it properly. I'm still not sold on the 2-axle trucks, but I think that's the way an official Lego set would be be too. The cab might need to move forward a stud or two; I'm looking at SD70M pics on Google and the front hood is actually pretty short. I don't think you should worry about matching the old and new greys... I never do. I'll second not using the the small 9v battery box too.

Heh, I know how you feel; it was hard to take it apart since I'd had it together for so long now, but I eventually needed some tiles from deep down inside. I have a space MoC that's older and bigger that I haven't had the guts to take apart yet I did keep the old loco together as long as I could for the sake of comparison: YA! That's on my BrinkLink to-do list. My last seller didn't have any. BrickLink drives me crazy because it's so hard to find the Best Deal on a given list of parts, and my Asian instincts demand that I try to, even if it's a waste of time.

Well, I try to stay as true as I can to the dimensions of the actual locomotive, but if I had to generalize, I'd say I like to keep small greebles at +2 and large greebles at +1 of your nominal width. Personally, since I value accurate macro proportions over greebles (and because I think they add a lot of running resistance), I usually sacrifice moving pistons to stay in within that +2 and +1 envelope. In this particular model I think I think that might make additional sense as the pistons are already entirely covered by the skirt. That would bring you to 9. In fact, if it were me, I'd even consider not having connecting rods altogether since the skirt covers just about half of the wheels. That would bring you to 8. Just my two cents, though. As for 7 and 9-wide bodies, I usually "hang" the body off an even-width "skeleton", which is actually connected to the running gear. This minimizes the number of the odd-width surfaces (and subsequently odd-width parts) to just the external ones, so you don't have to deal with that many. I usually just use the stud-not-in-center plate and 1x1 rounds embedded between the studs in 2xN plates to make the transition - no SNOT required. I can try to take some pics if I'm not being clear. EDIT: You could also try to reduce the width by converting the skirts from studs-up 1xN bricks to studs-sideways plates. There might also be a big L-panel piece you can use upside down, but I'm not too caught up with new parts for the past 4 or 5 years.

Cute model! Is it based off of anything? I think the word(s) you are looking for are "light rail" or maybe "tram"? I like the studs-down doors such that you can use the panel at the bottom as a stopper. That's pretty clever. I would consider using the conventional train magnets as connectors: a single DoF connection like the ball and socket typically doesn't play well in switches or S-bends.

EDIT: Update version with instructions on Rebrickable: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-105230/NonsenseWars/148-5at-advanced-technology-steam-locomotive-v3-power-functions Hey all, one more MoC from me this time around. This is a (theoretically) more accurate rebuild of a model I made in 2006. The 5AT is another advanced steam project that unfortunately did not/has not progressed passed the planning stage. While the 5AT was designed toward pulling passenger or excursion trains, it was also intended to showcase technologies that could someday find their way into mainline steam. I modeled the locomotive in a traditional DB colors with the contemporary DB Schenker branding to suggest the commercial steam-powered future that could be While I call this a remake, it is actually a completely new build and does not share any common assemblies with the old model. As with the ACE, I tried to model the overall proportions as accurately as possible and then "sketch" out the greebles and details. The scale is again 155mm to the plate height, which gives a locomotive length of 34 studs (magnet to magnet) and a width of 7 studs. The surprisingly long tender adds another 28 studs to the overall length. As far as construction details go, it's mostly studs-up save for some shenanigans in the front truck. It's articulated 4-6 with blind drivers on the first axle of the rear "truck"; I felt that this arrangement was a good balance between low rolling resistance, simplicity of construction, and modeling accuracy. The introduction of the XL BBB wheels between now and 2006 was one of the main reasons I wanted to rebuild this model: the (regular) large BBB wheels are way to small at scale! The front truck overlaps the rear truck slightly in order to plug the visual gap between the two trucks. The tender is actually my favorite part of the model Like the ACE, the actual 5AT design calls for Scullin-type wheels, which aren't well represented by the spoked BBB drivers. Since the wheels are a big visual part of the locomotive, I think the design loses some of its radical flavor; with the tender the spoked wheels are a much smaller part (and mostly hidden) and aren't quite as distracting. Somewhat of an aside, I really wish they had that 4x4 dome piece in black too Full Brickshelf gallery. Anyway, that's all I got, thanks for looking and have a nice day!

I think you've got the right shape overall, but it needs maybe another 8 studs of length in the middle and 2 in the rear. An SD70M is pretty big, and this is more the size of the 10133 GP38 (the 2 axle trucks don't help either).

Reminds me a lot of the new Lone Ranger locomotive?

I'm not a big fan of the asymmetry at the front, but the details and trim coloring are really cool! I also think the petrol station should be a little lower as that whole setup looks a little spindly at the moment, but I'm just nitpicking now; it's really a fantastic ship.

Aww, that's what I love about it! I love the combination of old and new, whether it's a steam loco with a modern shell or a spacecraft with art-deco styling.