ZueriHB

Wouldn't buy those Banbao trains. As Ban Bao bricks have a different height than other brands or our trusted Lego bricks. But the cargo train design is interessting.

Just googled those Ban Bao guys and found some other train related sets. Most intriguing is their track. It seems to me that the curves are of a bigger radius. Also are the switch points. But I could be wrong.

Just made a BlueBrick version of my now old layout: There are about 40m track in one direction.

Something like that would be great. But what I would like is a version to build into the IR Receiver. It would negate the use of unmodified remotes, but allows a low profile addressable system for many trains, where space is sacred.

I'd suggest you add a second pantograph and locate those directly above the bogies. As a pantograph has to be centered above the rails to keep contact with the overhead wires. I also recommend to add a second motor for better traction and pulling power. Unrelated note, if any engines are coupled together and work in tandem, the front loco has the front pantograph risen (normaly the back one is up). A pantograph's shoe has a small layer of coal to collect the electricity of the overhead wires, and small pieces of it will break loose and may embed themselves in any windshields following after it. Helps to keep your Lego trains operating realistically.

Have a look: clears well in straights.

SBB Style Signal Gantry with station main entry signal (Einfahrt Hauptsignal), with pre Signals for the exit. The SBB sometimes uses Signal Gantry to suspend signals from above, tried to catch the overall look and feel of them and decided that Technic parts would do a better job than standard bricks. My first attempt at studless construction. On the rear side are the pre signals for the other direction. Different view of the construction. Still needs a little work to channel the LED-cables. Here aprototype-image. Only with main signals (pre signals for the other direction)

Didn't know of that command. If I were you, letting go of the levers, or just putting it back in the middle position floats. Applying the brakes (hitting the lever in reverse, pushing the emergency stop) brake it.

The OP mentioned about eventually acquiring 3677 Red Cargo Train.

My experience is, if you start buying or collecting Lego Train Sets, don't buy a separate Speed Remote Control, you'll end up with a surplus of them (I have enough to control every train with it's own speed remote).

I mostly run my trains at PF setting 3 or 4.

Started using BlueBrick for my next big project, sadly, I can't open my file anymore. "There is an error in XML document (73558, 7)." What's the save limit of bricks on one layer or in total? I think I surpassed it (BlueBrick can edit and save, but can't load those files). I can send you the 2.5MB file if you want.

Erm, no. Don't know how you get that idea.

I only bought 3 sets of 3677, I got some spare cars and loading stations from roaming studio and also bought some additional cars from bricklink. But I only assembled two 3677 (both with LiPo). My GF doesn't allow my to build a city in her flat, mostly because of space reasons. So currently no buildings whatsoever. Technically, you can't run trains interdependent on my layout, you have to constantly juggle between them, see me juggle different trains at the same time. It's quite challenging.And even harder to juggle if two trains share the same channel (happens a lot). While shooting videos, we had some crashes, derailments and accidents. Why thank you! Certainly! In my MOC's thread are some more Pictures.

After a nice trip to Legoland Germany, I got a lot of pieces suitable for station building. Of course, it's nothing like Sokratesz' fine classic town station for 12v trains. But it'll do. Next to this station, let's call it W, is a new cargo port for all kinds of cargo, including passengers: Also, some old stations got a face lifting: I'm afraid to commit to such drastic measures, but some non-TLG elements had to be used to maximize enjoyment:

Tried my luck again with LDD. Finally did some IC2000 and for Zürich S-Bahn fans: DTZ (RABe 514) Prototype pictures IC Dosto (doubledecker Intercity train, consist of single coaches and is not a EMU) And here the RABe 514 DTZ, built on the base of Siemens' Desiro trains (think 2010 Passenger Train) IC 2000 in LDD: DTZ in LDD:

I'm with this idea too. There would be so many interesting themes to adapt.

Got my hands on some 3677 sets, and built new consists: 3677 Red Cargo Train, both with second motor, sadly no PF lights. PF stuff is in the Maersk container, but also no PF lights, should try it tough. Would make a great maintenance train.

I just love my two 4559's, here a better shot of TLG's solution: I didn't thought of that, so I rerouted the cable trough the gap in the split-level base: looks way better. If you try TLG's or any other solution with standard train motors and the split-level base, you'll need to increase the height of the bogies by one plate. Also, add some bricks to the motor or split-level base to shrink the gap between them (add max. 2 knobs total). I first tried that method for my FLIRT MOC, but alas, my MOC is everything but complete, so never built and tested. But my KFOL Technic days teach me one thing: small gears generate more friction than big ones, and lot's of small gears are hard to turn. But I wish you luck.

I tried myself at this challenge too. I started with the same approach as used with the 4559 Cargo Railway, but after adding a second split-level base, it didn't really work very well. the cable is in the way, I found no way of securing everything on the connector side of the RC motor, even using electrical plates. So I tried again with a PF motor: Just mind the cable, but it's less a hassle as with a 9V or RC motor, just get it out sideways, so it won't get crushed or clipped between the split-level base and the PF motor. It also handles the LEGO radi without problems, and just looks good:

It's not possible to run two trains parallel in the same direction and not crash.

To stick with the brick built bogies: Change to the new train wheels with clear rubber O-rings and motorize more than one axle, if you're unable to motorize both in one bogie, motorize a second bogie for more traction. May that helps.

I can't provide a picture at the moment. but just wham a flat screwdriver into the screw covers and yank the screwdriver back out, it'll come with a little piece of plastic. Remove it from the screwdriver and repeat (times 3). Then unscrew the underlying Philips-screws and you're good.

My first design of the Re 460 was a little short, so, with help by my GF, we redesigned the engine and lengthed it by 4 studs, and here is the (digital) result:

Thanks 12V. I finally tried to do an Re 460, quite a hard front to brick. I hope it's recognizable. (Prototype) But what would a nice engine be, without some rolling stock: EW IV 1st and 2nd Class coaches, one Panorama and one bicycle / baggage wagon.