jimmythefly

If I was allotted 1400 pieces to make an F1 model it would be either beautiful or full of function. This is like a spork -neither a good spoon nor a good fork, it disappoints at both uses. For a display model, then just effing make it from system parts, put in the Creator category, and make it beautiful, like the 911 or the Mustang! But if this is supposed to be Technic, then dammit put some technical features and functions in it. I can't stand seeing stacks of beams or panels where some nice tiles or standard bricks would do wonders aesthetically. Or alternately where they could have omitted those panels and used the parts budget on functional items.

Thanks for the review! I still wish Lego would make a decent round headlamp piece -I HATE the clear dish with the stud in the middle. Headlamps should be smooth dammit! That's the one spot that the T1 wins over this T2, (not to mention the Fiat, Porsche, Mustang, Mini, etc.). The other thing I'm not a fan of (and that the dish with stud headlamp doesn't help) is the slight look of extropia, the opposite of being cross-eyed. Otherwise what a nice set, hope to see the new tire show up other places too.

Very cool, thanks for adding it! Almost looks like Technic big figure heads instead of homemaker?

Once again I'm struck by how fun these older "simple" designs are. I'm sure a bit of the feeling is nostalgia, but that really does look like a fun set to sit down and play with. I like the newer 6 and 8 wide vehicles and everything, but this is a good reminder that simple can be fun too!

This is delightful! its' also a great reminder that a set doesn't have to be complex and "realistic" to have lots of play value -my kiddo and I could spend many days in your town playing all sorts of scenarios. Everything is accessible, vehicle doors open, cars fit on the roads, there's a lot going on.

Add 60278 Crook's Hideout Raid to the list. https://www.brickfanatics.com/lego-city-60278-crooks-hideout-raid-cancelled-for-clashing-with-brand-values/

I just read this whole thread and it's pretty fun to see the things that people were wishing for that have since shown up: centaurs! hammerhead sharks! Crocodile locomotive! I also don't see the V-22 Osprey set 42113 listed, but I guess it doesn't qualify for this thread as it did actually get released?

I absolutely love this! I've got a fairly large Micro Machines collection, it's fun to make some crossover toys like this. I always loved the Travel City playsets, and I really want Lego to do something like this with either the Disney Storybook adventures or the Harry Potter Hogwarts Moment books style cases. There is so much potential for self-contained little playsets like this.

Thanks @Mylenium ! That's what I figured -the only legal connections are things that normally connect to a bar and do not keep the ears of the pin compressed. What I'm trying to do is use the new vehicle base with suspension and the associated tilting axle with pins in a MOC. I'd like to use a wheel rim not normally associated with that small pin type of connection, so I either 1) want to connect a second wheel or dish or disc onto a compatible wheel, or to 2) build perhaps a small armature onto which I could attach a single wheel or perhaps a pair of wheels at each end of a short liftarm (like on the back pair of wheels of the Creator space Rover Explorer 31107) If none of the legal wheels have any other connection points on them, it's looking like I need to go with choice #2, which isn't bad it just will use more parts and take up more space and alter my design a bit.

The first set I specifically remember as receiving as a gift that was mine was Red Cross Helicopter 626, I can still picture where I was sitting at my grandmother's house when I got it and how I had to have help putting it together but how fun it was that the blades and tail rotor spun so well when you flicked them. I also know we (my sister and I) had the Police Boat 709, it's so awesome because it floats! I still have the parts for it though sadly the ballast weight is broken. Should probably grab one off bricklink at some point. My other memories of that boat is it had the cool macaroni bricks which were great for building other stuff, but also how annoying the "antenna" was on the front of it -it just relies on the technic bushing fit between four studs and was constantly getting knocked off. That era of construction set was so fun! Small simple sets but moving buckets and scoops and minifigs made them great to play with. Kinda jealous of that blue hardhat, we only had red. I don't know about you but this is also the era where my sister and I knew each and every part that we had in the old suitcase where our Lego lived. If you wanted to build something using (for example) the car doors, you had better be first to find them because we had exactly two left and two right! I kind of miss the simplicity of such a small collection.

I'm searching for alternate connections to the small wheel holder pin, or alternately looking for a wheel that mounts to that pin which ALSO has some sort of legal system connection available. To be clear, I am working with the typical small wheel holder pin as shown in the pic in black. Question 1: Are there other parts or types of parts that will connect onto that pin nicely? I'm sure there must be some minifig accessories or other parts that I haven't tried yet. I have fit several different parts to it already: 1x1 round plate with hole, 1x1 round brick with hole, headlight brick, travis brick. Technic half bushing, the axle hole on Technic thin liftarms, the center hole on Technic link treads, thin Technic gears and pulley. I have also fit several technic pins which have an OK friction fit and sort-of allow other things to be used as wheels, but because there is no internal goove the fingers of the wheel holder pin don't snap securely and in general I'd like a connection that is more secure. Question 2: Are there any wheels that fit on this pin that ALSO have some sort of system connection point? I've tried wagon wheels, small train wheels, etc. Seems like Lego specifically does not want us to use anything more than their intended wheels with these -or did I miss something? The closest I have come is trying to fit the 2x2 dome lip inside the 14mm wheel (pics below). It just doesn't fit even with a fair amount of force. Thanks.

This is pretty great! Based on the few I have also driven past the interior should probably be built from much older dingier bricks, not these nice shiny new bricks you show. :)

I know y'all are aware but toy car scale is often way off and usually has wheels/tires larger than they should be (HotWheels, Matchbox, etc.). Lego scale is even more wacky. A real GT40 is about waist-height to a typical person, and it's tires are about knee height. Even for modern cars with 19" or 20" diameter wheels, they're not even close to sternum height the way most speed champions tires are to a minifig. (pic in larger size here: https://i.pinimg.com/originals/84/7e/67/847e67df9f1e0aadf6abcae0cfb0d2ce.jpg) I would have meant a total paradigm shift and a bunch of new parts, but I kinda wish they would have gone to 7-wide for Speed Champions. Would have been nice in terms of detail but also have a chance at still fitting on a city street.

A Viper + Lil Red Express would be a fun pair, but I doubt they would put out a set without at least one current-production vehicle. What about Jeep? We've got the new 42122 Technic Jeep Wrangler, it would be nice to have a speed champions version.

Well spotted. I'm thinking the top knob is for the rotors, which I believe are contra-rotating, based on what looks like some sort of gear mechanism between them (and in real life that's what those rotors would do). The knob at the rear might be fore retractable landing wheels -the wheels look like they are attached at a slightly odd angle to me, which suggests they are on a hinge or something for retraction.

Thanks everyone! Exactly what I was looking for. I never owned any Lego motors (well, I had Wind-up motor) but that hardly counts) until the PF stuff came out. A local LUG member mentioned the train regulator and wall-wart for it, I bricklinked them last night but neglected to get the PF wire 60656. Back to bricklink!

I've got a great ball contraption module that I've built using a power functions M motor. Right now it's powered from the battery box, but ideally I would find a way to power it from the wall socket. Is there a part or transformer that is meant to do this? Is there a mod or off-the-shelf part I could get from an electronics store that would work? I know how to solder and have mechanical skills, just want to make sure I don't fry my motor. This would be for USA wall current, 120V AC Thanks. Jimmy

Here's my response, posted elsewhere as well: Give me a break. They wanted a bunch of minifigs, they went and got a bunch of minifigs. What number is acceptable to you? 5 of each? One of each? Can I come to your house and determine what bricks you have too many of and aren't using in what I deem a proper manner? What if you're building an army? What about mummy hordes? Baseball team? Especially with series 3, with no barcodes, it is understandable (and predictable) that somebody trying to build, say, a baseball team would buy 11 cases, therefore being sure he has enough figs. At least with barcodes one could pick and choose what figs to buy in quantity. If you've got a gripe, take it up with TLG for their methods. No, I'm not the guy in the pic, and I haven't found any series 3 to call my own yet.

I don't know how you could improve it, but there are a couple of features that could be added. Be sure that I understand that adding features is not the same thing as improving, though! Anyhows, why not 4-wheel steering? With the front and rear steering not linked the Avenger could crab as well as turn a normal circle. At any rate, that thing is very impressive, and seeing at (and some of the other trucks here) gives me some great ideas to get started on my own MOCs. Thanks for posting.

Landmaster! Actually, much better than that. The center pivot works wonders, seeing if go over that truck at the end was great! Very nice execution, you make it look simple, but I'm sure it took a bit to work out the bugs. Thanks for sharing!

I'm wondering about the license plate (with crash test dummy) and the medical chart (with nurse). Surely the number and names on those are some inside-joke at Lego? Anybody know?

That garbage truck looks awesome! The 10-wide "model team" windscreen isn't totally new, just a new color of a part that hasn't been seen in a while. (3x10x3 windscreen on bricklink) First the 2x12x3 windscreen reappearance as skylights in grand emporium, now this!

Thanks for all the replies, guys (girls?). I had seen some stuff on return-to-center steering using rubber bands, (on Technicbricks maybe). Ralph, thanks for the link to that previous thread, I'm off to bricklink for some hockey spring units. I though about trying to achieve return-to-center through playing with caster angle and trail, but even if that worked I'd still have the question about if the motor would get hot at full steering lock. Thanks again for the answers, at this point I just need to build and see where it takes me.

I just got a bunch of power functions stuff! Before I go and use the M motor (with remote control) for steering my car, I want to make sure I'm not going to overly stress the motor. My concern is what happens at full steering lock. So, if I create steering in the normal way, rack&pinion style, and hook the M motor to the pinion(through a reduction geartrain), how will that work? Should I use a clutch gear in there somewhere, or should I use a rubber band as a drive belt so it has some slippage? Or can I connect the motor directly to the pinion (through a recuction), with no clutch mechanism and just let the motor stop when it hits full lock and I release the remote lever? Jimmy

Bingo. I came here to say just that, first thing I thought of, esp. with the trapper look and the indian wife. "I, Hatchet Jack, being of sound mind and broke legs, do hereby leave this bear rifle to the man that finds me, God pray it be a white man, it is a good rifle, and it kilt the bare that kilt me."