Jump to content

RohanBeckett

Eurobricks Knights
  • Posts

    811
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by RohanBeckett

  1. I will post new pics of it's current look.... I was having issues with the grabbers landing precisely over the studs, so I added 2 linear actuators, so I can fine-tune their positioning
  2. Not sure why all the changes Here's mine, that I built before Blakbird did the instructions: https://bricksafe.com/pages/rbeckett/gbc-stuff/catch-and-release I've since re-modified mine a couple of times (output chute is no longer panels) and for a short time, it had a recirculating option, where you could direct any balls that the first arm picked up, back into the input, which allowed balls to hang around a bit longer - since it's such an efficient module, sometimes you don't get to see it in action! I have no idea why it has the ratchet modification, as mine runs perfectly fine forwards or backwards!
  3. Exo suit was SUCH a flimsy build... and when I got mine - sadly, a lot of parts had very loose clutch power.... sneeze, and they fall off with sets like the Mack Truck, we are definitely seeing a lot more system parts than ever before, in Studless Era Technic
  4. Very much so! but I think there is scope and room for a 2nd GBC standard, for these mini modules... and to be honest, if they can handle 1Ball Per Second.. there's no reason why you couldn't incorporate them into a regular GBC layout, You'd just need an 'adapter' module at each end, of a chain of MiniLoopGBC, to convert back to regular standard That said.. a lot of Josh David Miniloops are far slower than 1BPS
  5. some of his recent modules appear to have alternate outputs, to link to the next module It's almost as if it could be a new standard for 'miniloop' style GBC.... with a different rate/speed, and no requirement for handling bulk balls
  6. looks very good! could you try using a craft-knife to slice a small amount from the top of each rubber stopper, so they are thinner, so you can mount them to both sides? might only have to use 2?
  7. really like the last video... sometimes it's nice to just concentrate on an individual module, to see how it flows... there's a few interesting ideas in there that I'd like to try out one day! :)
  8. Berthil covered the most important rules.. But here are some other useful guidelines: Strive for reliability, when building to exhibit with others. Make sure you've run your module for a few hours non-stop, in a small loop, to REALLY find out how it jams, or spills balls If you can't solve a few ball spills.. at least design your module to contain them to a small area for collection. Make sure mechanism are well built, and well braced... don't have an essential part hanging by 1 or two studs, if it keeps getting knocked off Try to make the motor quick-changable - ie: it clips easily to the module - don't build over the motor. If it breaks down during a show, you want to be able to swap out for another motor Have your module geared, so that when powered via a train controller, it runs correctly, when the dial is turned to the right. Or, if running off battery box, when the power switch is pushed *away* from the connector. If possible, design the output to be directionally flexible - it makes it easier to align to the next module, or can help when turning corners on a layout It's ok to have input a brick or two lower, or the output a brick or two higher... ... but don't have a a module that outputs *too* high... balls bounce, and will most likely bounce/spill out of the next module
  9. all it needs is a better counterweight, and the operation would be much smoother!
  10. Another great module Sawyer! You are really coming up with a lot of good mechanical ideas!
  11. I was nice to my 4.5v motors.. and they are still running... 30+ years later ;) really need to make a 'vintage' style GBC, using all 80's parts/motors!
  12. When I used your step module.. it's still geared inside.. so even more than 4 phases! I dislike seeing a motor in a GBC straining harder than it should!
  13. one thing I found with mine - and it's probably the design, is that it definitely worked better, when all 5 steps were NOT in sync it was much less load on the single motor driving them all, if the 'virtual crankshaft' was balanced Not sure how long you could stretch this design, and have an alternating up/down on each step
  14. The small flexible stepper reminds me of the chained Maico Stepper I made: the one-armed pickup-and-put module is quite interesting to watch! and of course, the wheel slider is very impressive!
  15. if you had posted this - even unfinished to the TC14, I would have voted.. and you probably would have had a fair chance of winning/placing! ;) (although I guess too many non-technic parts!) can't wait to see the next update video!
  16. Thanks... to be honest, I mostly used it, as I have 4 train motors spare, and figured these were *designed* to run at high speed, for longer periods, than the PF/M motor, with it's planetary gears inside And I'd be less upset if I killed it after a weekend of non-stop running, than any other motor! :) vs As it happened, I ended up running it only on 1/2 power, on a Train Controller.. so no fear of that happening The Actuator was very much essential to fine tune the gap between the wheel and the tubing. if I altered the speed, I would sometimes have to alter the pressure.. But once everything was set just right (sometimes took a few minutes of adjusting), it was set to run for hours.
  17. agreed - running a ball around in your hand is the quickest way to find if the clips are interfering... you'll know straightaway when you feel a bump My Ball Flinger - although much smaller in scale, uses the same technique... and after bracing it very strongly, to prevent vibration, and tubing movement, it became quite reliable
  18. My Ball Factory Board is: an 810mm x 460mm sheet of 12mm ply it is edged with pieces of dressed-pine, 11x30mm, to give rigidity and to act as a ball spill tray I drilled 4.5mm holes to fit the 3L axles into, to lock the baseplates into place, with a bush, and 2x4 plate with holes Obviously the size can be anything you want.. I had envisioned eventually buying/making a perspex box to house it. Not much imperial left here in Australia... diagonal TV/LCD sizing (24", 42") is about the only mainstream remnant left
  19. I neeeed to move zee ball, from here <--- to --> here, using zee most complicated way possible! :)
  20. Very well done! Hopefully the more the feature it.. the more likely we'll see a 'box-o-balls' set for sale! :D
  21. this is the craziest question I've seen for a while Putting toy motors, that are obviously NOT watertight in a dishwasher, and expecting them to survive??? Do you want corrosion? because that's how you'll get corrosion (and dead motors) This is the only Lego motor I'd trust through a dishwasher: Seriously... don't be lazy... pull the models apart, and get the motors/electrical parts out, and then wash them.
  22. will measure it tomorrow.. do you prefer metric or US units? Oh wait.. this is Eurobricks... guess it'll have to be metric!
  23. Still a great module (thanks @torso and @djm) Mine has now done over 7 multi-day shows, over the last 3 years with no major issues at all Still very much a fan favourite.. you often catch people stuck, staring at it for minutes at a time! At a recent show, we had 2 side by side, and most of the time, they were in synch!
  24. it's scary how similar it is to Lego Boost (nearly 2 decades apart) Sure... the actual tech has changed a bit... but it's still: Controlling Computer/Tablet Wireless Link-up to SmartBrick-with-two-builtin-motors Able to take other inputs/outputs (sensor/motor) Runs code on PC, that directly controls the unit If anything - Cybermaster had one trick, that Boost can't do - download a program, and run it independantly! It really is a shame that the software/tower is so limited to ancient hardware.. No reason why it couldn't still be used today with a USB-Serial adapter I managed to pick up an RCX Scout brick a little while ago - hoping to have time soon to sit down and see what I can do with it!
×
×
  • Create New...