nico71

A Lego Technic steam machine powered by two pneumatic cylinders engine, with valve gear mechanism, speed indicator, air control valve and building instructions. Context Since my last pneumatic mine, I wanted to build a Lego pneumatic engine with the new cylinderswhich are bigger. At the beginning, I wanted to build a Steam Traction Engine or a Locomotive to focus on the valve gear, but I wanted to use the new gear rack from the 42082 as the flywheel, nevertheless it was complicated to implement due to the scale. That is why I focused the work on the big steam machine like the mill steam machine which have a big flywheel at the center. Functioning This machine is composed of a chassis, two pneumatic engines with valve gear, a flywheel which connects the both engines, a speed indicator display thanks to a governor and an air control valve. The valve gear is inspired by one on the locomotive but without the reverse mode. It enables to reduce the dead point on the switch and maximize the time on left or right position which increases the efficiency of the engine. It is composed of a main crank and connecting rod to the cylinder, plus a second crank which has a angular offset also connected to the piston rod with a linkage system which connects the both to the switch. This combination of the two cranks and linkage system enable to have a non-linear motion (you can see it on the video, the switch seems to jump from left to right and so forth). The two engines are symmetrical, and are totally independent. The machine can work with only one cylinder or two, the flywheel connected the right engine to the left, using a gear multiplication of 5:1, it enables also to create a angular offset of about 90° between the two cylinders, which helps to make start the engine in any case (but create some vibration). Please note also that either the pneumatic cylinder, either the switches are not modified. The speed indicator uses the same principle has on my old centrifugal tachometer. It is connected the the left engine, and the rotation speed raises the two arms which pull a lever which makes rotate the indicator. Of course this system do not regulate the air flow. Because in Lego, it doesn’t exist a proper valve, the only way it to pinch the hose which requires lot of force, force that can not be provided by small plastic arms which rotate. Maybe it is possible to make at a bigger scale and with a very soft hose. The last equipment is the air control valve which is operated by the handle. It drives a worm screw on a 24t gear, with a small lever which pinches the hose. By modifying its section, the air flow is controlled, from totally closed to totally open to adjust the speed. Design I wanted to make a working engine but also a nice detailed one. That is why I have chosen a color scheme for visual description, with yellow for pneumatic and moving parts, red for the engine chassis, and black for the rest. I have made also some details like the working area on a platform with the controls, and fences. At final, I find that the engine work smooth thanks to the big flywheel and the valve gears, and is very didactic and nice to see for people who like kinetic sculpture, that is why I have made a building instructions. Video Building Instructions There are not so many instructions for non-modified pneumatic engine, even less with the new bigger cylinders, that is why I wanted to create a high-quality building instructions for this machine, but also easy to set up. That is why the linkage mechanism is easy to build with no setup, each engine is independent (you can build only one if you want) and there is only one timing angle to respect on each engine (important angle are specified in the instructions). The building instructions are complete 204 step by step pages computer rendering building instructions at the price of 10€ (190 mo PDF). You can buy here : http://www.nico71.fr/lego-technic-steam-machine/ or on rebrickable. Want to know if you can build the Steam Machine ? The Steam Machine has been indexed to rebrickable, check it ! :)

The S2000 is insane at the interior to fix all the bodywork correctly and have the correct angle. Do not think that no gearbox means simple chassis. Nevertheless, I understand your point, it is not always easy to start with the bodywork especially when you want to focus on functioning and functions but here is the difference for me now, I want to focus on the design rather than the functions, it is more challenging for me as it is my weak point. Of course If I want tomake a particular car with particular functions, I will focus on the chassis and then the bodywork if the bodywork is easy to do. With a nice design, the creations is always love, with a bulky design, even if you have made a breakthrough on the inside, it will not have the same impact.

I personnally start to make a fake chassis with only the correct dimensions, wheel base and steering. And Then I design the bodywork. When I am satisfied with the bodywork (which can be before the end of design) I design the chassis. In this way, the bodywork is never bad compare to the functions :) I start to make like that since the big Citroen 2CV because the bodywork was a huge challenge. And making a complete chassis and then can't figure out the bodywork would be losing my time.

This is a great work. But you should definitively start by designing the bodywork and not the chassis. Juste make a fake chassis for the proportion (whee, wheelbase, width length etc.) and then make the bodywork. When the bodywork is perfect at your eyes, you can make the chassis, and fit all you want (and can) inside. Because, as I see the project, I see the chassis is well done and very sophisticated, and the bodywork is not at this level of detail, a bit too bulky. So I advice to start with the bodywork to focus the effort on it and then made the chassis. It is not a hard criticism, just a tips to have a bodywork which is a good, as the inside.

Wow awesome, is there a video of functioning ?

Honda France has featured me on their facebook page ! I know this is in french but this is a recognition for me, as a huge fan of honda :)

I think of course (it is writen in the article), but which one ? The smaller is too small, and a build one is not very homogeneous with the design, do you have some proposals ?

Here is a complete review of my new creation : A replica of a the Honda S2000 AP2, with steering, double wishbone suspensions, detailed tilted engine F22C1, opening doors, hood, trunk and manual convertible top. With custom sticker and 3d printing wheel, and building instructions. Context Yes, again, a Honda. After finishing my Honda NSX in lego technic, I had on my todo-list several other honda like the civic EG, the new NSX and the S2000. But there was a common point : I wanted to make it in black this time, that is why some months ago I have bought some flex axles and panels. I wanted also to push the details and design to its limits, with 3D printed rims, and sticker but also a (nearly) perfect shaped bodywork . That is why, this creation took months to make but it worth it. Consequently I have made the pro building instructions. As usual, I have chosen the medium scale. This the perfect scale for me because it enables to have enough place for some mechanisms like drive-train, suspensions (with some tricks) and steering but also make easier the making of the bodywork. Indeed, people who will judge the creation will be more responsive to the compromise, and the empty space or gap will be less important. With a big scale, you can put many functions in it but the bodywork has to be perfect in shape and homogeneity, if not the creation will look bulky, or with two many empty spaces. This balance is easier to find at this scale and the result is good with a proper density of elements. Functions Regarding the scale and the high level of detail I wanted, I have mainly focused myself on important functions without forget the details. That is why there is a drivetrain from the rear axle to the engine but not a gearbox, there is a steering wheel which is connected to the wheels but not a Hand Of God. But there are also some tricks to have for instance the suspensions and the drive-train at this scale which I will explain. The first function is the drive-train with the detailed engine. The rear axle is equipped with a floating differential to accommodate the scale and having suspensions. I use for that the ball joint and pivot frame to create this. then the motion goes to the engine with two U-joins. I have chosen to make the engine using the same building as the mack anthem (known before but first use in a lego set). It enables me to make the 4 inline cylinders engine in only 6-studs long. I wanted also to make a detailed engine, with the camshaft, belt and so on. I use for that the 12t gear with 24t gear to have the correct ratio, (in real it is a belt but using a chain was not really good and smooth) to rotate the camshaft. I have also put the complete exhaust, air intake, accessory pulley and belt and of course the Vtec sticker (visible here on the instruction sheet). The engine is also build on a frame which is slightly tilted to reproduce the natural tilted angle of the F20C engine. On the front of this, there is the steering. The space between the engine and front axle is very small that is why the command of the steering is located in the front. The steering wheel is connected to the rack and pinion by two U-joins (which pass near the engine), 12t on 24t gear, and 12t on rack and pinion. The small trick here is that I have used some levers on each side of the rack to be guided during the displacement, instead on letting oscillate with the play. It tends to make the steering more accurate. The suspensions are double wishbones suspension, made with standard element on the front and build one for the rear. The trick is that I used disassembled spring and sliding connector on a axle as a shock absorbers (visible on this instruction sheet) and not connecting the both sides of the bottom wishbone to let pass the drive-train. It enables me to build a very compact and functional solution for the suspensions. You can see the on the picture the underneath : Next functions are the opening functions. Of course the doors can be opened, the trunk (which is ridiculously small) and the hood which is kept in place by friction pin to reveal the engine. The last function is the convertible top. I did not want to create a convertible top using some leather of tissue which were not lego, but a rigid top which can be folded as the real one. The most difficult part was the C-pillar. As it was rigid, it had to be hide somewhere, that is why I have chosen to use panels and to hide between the wheel and the rear bumper. The other moving parts are folded behind the seat, and the whole top rotates on two arms fixed near the seats. You can see a gif here and overal process here. I am not entirely satisfied about this, because as the C-pillar are rigid, it has to be enough place to goes in and out. To accommodate the empty or filled space, I design two sides wings cover for it. Of course they are attached to the car but they are not very nice when the top is operated. You can see it on a gif, as two antenna / wings comes up at the beginning of the process. But it enables me to have a rigid convertible top which folds like the real one and have the correct shape for the car. It was definitively the most difficult part to create with the engine. Design The design was also a difficult part for this build. Of course at this scale, there is not many possibilities to create the correct shape, but it has also to be as good as possible, to catch the identity of the car, with no empty gap, strange building or shape. The trick is always to reproduce the iconic elements of the car by using the less amount of parts in the purest way to build, the design will look homogeneous and not bulky. First I have chosen the AP2 version of the Honda S2000, not the first one, the AP1, because the shape of the front bumper has more angle, and the rear light is more distinctive in this lego version. You can note indeed that on the front, bumper, I reproduce the particular shape on the side by using small panel fixed by a think liftarm underneath, which is completed by angled connector on the top, which also joins the radiator shape to create the car’s mouth. This combination of design element was very hard to find and to fix in compact and sturdy way. It shows a important part of the design here, the half stud gap. Indeed, the half stud gap is the most important technique here in this build to make the bodywork. Because at this scale, if the main unit in the stud, some element may not be very well-placed because either placed too closed or too far, or on a wrong position depending of the chosen stud. With a half stud you can choose the correct place. To create this gap, I use mainly perpendicular connector like this one or this one or this one or the pole reverser connector or the toggle joint. I use this half stud gap on many elements of the car. It includes the side skirts which are slightly stuck out and the mudguards which need it to shape the wheel correctly. The rear bumper uses also this a lot, to first shape correctly the mudguards, but also be a bit higher than the side skirts to respect to overall shape of car. It is also used for the rear light using this part (visible on the instructions sheet). And to finish it is also used for the front side panel where the soft axle comes from to create the shape on the edge of the hood. (visible on this instruction sheet). Regarding the details, I wanted to create a high level of details, that is why I have chosen to have a complete detailed interior instead of having a gearbox. The interior is then equipped with the seat, dashboard, gauges, lever and steering wheel (which is always too big at this scale). But I wanted also to have particular identity of the car with 3D printed wheel cover and the stickers. The stickers were obvious for me because it helps to know the brand and the model. They have been made by forwart sticker (his bricklink store here) which include the one on the dashboard which is very nice. I design the 3D wheel cover on Creo (Pro-Engineer) based on classic Mugen wheel and then modified a bit to enhance the printability. Then Teclem8 has printed it for me and then polish (you can see it in video), and I have paint it it with spray metallic silver . Sticker made by Forwart Sticker I will conclude on the design with two tips. I think there are two important points to have a good design. First is to reproduce the iconic shape or element of the car by using small amount of parts in a pure design, which means it has to be not bulky or strange or wrong color etc. It has to catch the identity of the car in a simple way. I can be done by reproducing some details, or particular shape, or color etc. The second point is to not limit your building with the classic positioning and orientation giving by lego parts (like stack it on every stud, and orientating the parts with perpendicular connectors only). It is important to use every building techniques to place the parts where they have to be placed and not where it is easier to attach, by using half stud gap, rotating the parts, using the angled connector and beam, soft axle etc. Building Instructions The idea of this creation was to create the best reproduction of the Honda S2000 at this scale, I do not know if I have succeeded but I think it is a very beautiful car and a nice building. As a fan, and knowing there are many fans of Honda and Lego supercar, I have made the pro-instructions for this car. It is complete 230 step by step pages computer rendering building instructions at the price of 10€ (390 mo PDF). Here is the complete bill of material in picture file : But you can also checked it on rebrickable : Want to know if you can build the Honda S2000 ? The Honda S2000 has been indexed to rebrickable, check it ! You will find more pictures about the car and the instructions to my blog here. :)

Yes it is also possible but I have not proposed this because for a big model like that with this tires, it is obvious that it has to be motorized for a function like that. The tilting cab or outrigger can be manual but the tilting for the fork need to be powered for me :)

Thanks for your comments ! This is not possible for me to build this, because the fork tilting must be controlled by something (when the boom is raised) and with only one motor you can not put a gearbox for many function and goes to the fork without using a slidding 8t on axle. Otherwise the boom is not telescopic and it is not fun. You can make also using many gear on a slidding arms (as on the front on my forklift) bit it need many gears and I do not think it works. Last solution is to use the string to operate the tilting but the 42082 string is not tight enough. So, harder that it seems !

This is not a rotating cab, as soon it is publish, you will see, but as mentionned it is not a usefull function for functionning. @steph77 you are right for the functionning of the adjustable fork, this is the only way to do with the inventory, and it works fine !

Those wheel cover are 3D printed, and then polish, like the sticker, it is all custom.

Yes for the design, it enables also the driver to see between the two pillars. and also to reduce the torque on each U_join in order they do not take apart.

You will see soon ^^ Thanks for the comment on the two creations !

Hello, the model D is finished, pictures and videos are done, and Kevin Williams works on the building instructions. but this is a huge model so It takes time to complete ! I can not tell at this time when it is finished and published. Here is some pictures : But mainwhile I am working on the building instructions of a new car that I have design in the begining of the year, which is obsviously a honda, a S2000. It represents the best I can do in this scale with the bodywork, it is full of building technique to obtain half stud gap to respect the shape at this scale. You can see some picture here : I am very proud of this two creations, and think I am going to this type of creation now. Which is model C or D because it is very pleasant to work with limited inventory and making instructions for it (people are really happy with model C) and some other creations which takes month to make but are rather perfect for me. Even if it takes many time to do, this is a way I like, and of course I will not publish many creations / year now. But it worth it I think :)

and the last episode of the amazing machine, #5 : the shooting : Thanks you for having followed this story :)

I let you watch this This is a review of the process of buying a custom creation from mochub (here is my citroen 2cv) You can see the complete article about mochub that I wrote a year ago which explaçin the functionning and why do that : http://www.nico71.fr/you-can-now-buy-my-creations/ Regarding the price, as the price is indexed on the bricklink plus the time needed to pack it, it is always more expensive that do it by your own but this is the same service. And regarding the parts, of course the suitable moc are those who have standard parts (whoich means in production) and not too expensive, if not the price is too huge (like my big Citroen 2CV which is about 900$ but, even with that, it sells.) Regarding the incomes, I sell about 4 to 10 creations / month, which gives some $ each time so, not a big incomes but very much better than youtube which pay nothing now. I think this is the best ethical option, I create a design, mochub sell it, and I have a comission, the customer pay for a design and for the parts. (to compare with selling instructions only, sometimes, people do not appreciate to buy instructions because it is demat'). The advice I can give : -if you have already the list of part and the instructions, just submit to mochub and you will see if it is sell or not -if you have not the list and the building instructions, it is up to you to work on it and submit on mochub but to be honest if you consider the time to make the 3D and the instructions, it is not worth it regarding the incomes (if you plan to sell to have incomes and live from that). That is why I make instructions not for mochub but for people who want instructions. But as you have already made the instructions, you can try mochub, it cost nothing to test it. In any case, the quality of service is high, we are paid when we wanted, mochub gives feedback if there is problem on instructions (and deals with the customer for missing or wrong parts), I have also the opportunity to make skype call with them for explaining the process and visiting the facility. I have been contacted by several "chinese" brand copy for buying some deisgn from me and never accepted because I am not cofortable to sell non-lego parts and the quality of service for customers. This is not the same person who buy on mochub than people who buy just instructions, so the list of parts and the instructions have to be perfect. (on the begining on mochub, some moc which needed a sbrick did not mention on mochub so the customer buy it and can not use his creation because there are mostly newbie and not expert in lego). I hope it answer to your questions (sorry for bad english). just to share with you about your sells, yes it is a big moc so expensive so less person who buy. I personnaly sell many medium moc (arround 100-250$). More than 250$ will represent about only 20% of selling. But as you have Power Functions Elements the price is huge that is why it could be interesting to make a version without electric.

Next episode about the amazing machine : the improvement : Next episode will be the last, the shooting !

A tiny monster truck, features all wheel drive and steering, torsion bar suspensions, changeable gear reductions and power source, and openable hood, with building instructions. I wanted for a while to build a tiny monster truck with the big wheels of the Lego Xerion with a special color scheme. The first idea was to use lime and blue color from the lego #42037 but I had not enough parts in correct color to have a good result, that is why I changed the idea and try a different approach with a red chassis, white body and some touch of lime, but without neglecting the bodywork. I have chosen to design the chassis in red color, like the iconic lego crawler #9398, using one L-motor on each axle with differential, with a simple but effective drive train. The use of portal hub enables the easy change of the gear reduction, to have a maximum torque (8/24t) or maximum speed (16/16t). It was an important thing for me for the drive train to be easy changed. The steering is operated by a servo motor, placed centrally in the chassis, and uses the ball-join frame to passes the axle of the steering. As the servo motor is not directly on the steering axle and uses 16t gearing, I have to use a small trick to avoid miss-alignment of the steering, by shifting some tooth of the 16t gear to have the correct tooth of the 12t gear on the rack. (you can see it on the building instructions). The suspensions are based on the same design like my Mongo Truck, the CVT truck, or orange trial crawler since lego have released the ball-join hub with frame. Therefore the axle are composed of a ball-join hub frame, with two links on the side but the shock absorbers are not made by using springs, but torsion bar. A link connects the axle with a lever, which is mounted on an axle which can not rotate. The suspensions are therefore create by the torsion of the axle. It enables to have adjustable soft suspension (by moving the fixed position of the axle) and more compact than a spring for vehicle in small scale. But this suspension can not handle a drop of the vehicle without end stop to prevent breaking the axle. Regarding the design of the bodywork, as I mentioned, I wanted to create a tiny truck with good mechanical and simple design but also a nice bodywork. I have chosen the white color for the bodywork which fits nicely with the red chassis, and some touch of green using the lime soft axle, but you can of course consider every color you want as the design is pretty simple in the parts used. I also wanted to put some nice details in it to reinforce the playability, like the possibility to choose the power source. My model uses standard battery box with IR received V2 but a buwizz of a lipo with sbrick can also be installed. The last detail is about the openable hood which reveals the big V10 block (not working sorry) and some others details like a dashboard and exhaust. To finish with the trial truck abilities, there are good, despite the fact there are differentials on each axle and the wheel base is short, but the truck has a low center of gravity, a good torque on wheel (with the 8/24 portal hub), good traction with the tires and the responsive suspension and small turning radius. Of course it can not compete with heavy slower truck with many motors but it is very playable and fun, especially if you choose the buwizz of sbrick solution to avoid the IR detection problem under the sun. To sum up, this is a fun and powerful tiny monster truck, which can be modified by the user (changing power supply, gear ratio, color scheme), that is why I have created a free building instructions based on reverse photo sequence ! You can see the bill of material here : or watch it on rebrickable : Want to know if you can build the tiny monster truck ? The tiny monster truck has been indexed to rebrickable, check it ! You can download the PDF of the building instructions here : LegoMonsterTruckInstructionsByNico71.pdf (25mo) or browsing here : http://www.nico71.fr/monster-truck-2/ :)

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Get it, thanks, this is a an other point of works. I am glad to see that you continue working with lego, I though you stopped because I did not see anything or brickshelf or youtube (I don't have flyckr.)

Nice I did not see this one ! If there a video ?

Could be interested yes, I discover this "new" tyres on the Corvette but it is also appear on the londo, bus so for a next order on bricklink !

Hello, I present you my new creation ! A motorized rally car transformer which transforms from a car to a robot. With building instructions. Context I must admit that I am not a huge fan of Transformers movie and robot fight, but I like mechanism and wanted for a while to build a real car which can transform into a transformer robot with not only the chest and head to move like a toy but all the body, including the feet, legs, chest, head, arms and so on. Then, I decide some months ago to start this creation by seeing the work of barebos on youtube who have made a prototype. I have made many prototypes to have the correct dimensions and proportions for the robot and then design (or trying to design) the car. Here is the final result. Functionality This model has only one function, which is the purpose to what it has been designed (of course you can play with it but there is no steering). This function is the most important and takes the whole space in the model. It is basically composed of : A M-motor which drives the whole system (in red and yellow) Articulated feet lever which deploy the feet under the bodywork (in blue) A double linkage lever to maintain the chest of the transformer to be parallel to the feet lever (in pink) A third linkage which connects the double linkage to the front, in order to reveal the head (in green) The two arms attached to the chest which are moved by a last system of linkage (non represented here) The M-motor drives two system of worm gear. The first drive train powers the pink linkage. This linkage is attached to the blue feet lever which is powered by the second worm gear thanks to the T shaped parts. This configuration with the two worm gears and the double linkage enables to have the chest (basically in red on the picture) to be parallel to the blue feet levers. Thanks to that, the feet can be folded in the chassis like a accordion and takes the maximum available space to gives a nice proportioned robot which raises from the ground. The blue feet levers are necessary to lift the whole transformer by pushing on the ground and to be a part of the feet at the end to avoid falling, the feet touch consequently the ground as soon as the lever start to rotate. Then, the double linkage is connected to the front of bodywork, and the length between pivot point allow a 90° rotation of the front bumper when the whole linkage made a 180° rotation. Like that the transformer can raise from the ground and reveal the head of the transformer by rotating the front bodywork. you can see in fact that the head is hidden inside the front bodywork but is attached to the chest. To finish the arms of the transformer are attached to the chest and are composed of a double linkage system, which makes rotate and move on the side each arm. Each arm is connected to the first double linkage (in pink on the picture) with 6L link. Therefore the doors of the car is the arm of the transformer and the hands are hidden at the back. Design At the beginning I wanted to have the battery box in the model, but I had to remove it because of the weight and that I have not enough place to put a big motor. Even with a big creation to have enough space to put two big motors, the weight was too important to lift the transformer (do not forget that this is the feet which lift the transformer). Therefore I decided to choose small scale to have a small weight and tiny motor, of course the battery box would not be in the creation but apart and connected with a wire. - The main consequence of this was the design of the bodywork. When I have finished the mechanism of the transformer, I was able to start the bodywork, but due to the scale, I could only make a design which was a compact rally car. It could not have a trunk (or maybe with a more complex linkage), and the wheel base was small regarding the scale, because I focused myself to have a correct proportioned robot regarding the feet, legs, chest and arms. Regarding the doors, they are also the arms with the hands, therefore, the hands in black are hidden at the back which is simple and handy, which would be not the case if I chose a different design. This is the same reason why there is a gap between the rear light and the roof, because when the transformer is raising, I have to have enough space to handle the displacement of the roof. The head is also hidden in the hood, which affects the design of the head. I was limited in width but think that I found an interesting combination with black connector to create the mouth and face, plus some white parts, especially the cheese slope which makes the nose. To conclude, this type creation was the first I did, having a car which can transform into a robot. It was very interesting to works to the mechanism especially the complex system of linkage, worm screw, lever, moving and non-moving parts which makes a good working creation. The building is very compact to keep a small scale in order the robot can be raised by a motor, therefore there is not many space to create detailed interior, fake engine, steering, or drive train. The design was also a consequence of that which is not bad (rather cool I think), but maybe a lack of crazy color and shape which can be seen on original Transformers movie. As I said, I not very good in designing manga things. Pictures and Video Go to http://www.nico71.fr/transformer-rally-car/ to see more pictures. Building Instructions At the beginning of this moc, I wanted to make a building instructions because when I searched this type of creation, I did not find with instructions. I tried to make it with photo sequence but it was a total mess. Therefore I decided to create a pro-rendering instructions for sale, at 7.5€, which enables you to rebuilt it, step by step, part by part. Here is the complete bill of material in picture file : File 1 - file 2 But you can also checked it on rebrickable : Want to know if you can build the Rally Car Transformer ? The Rally Car Transformer has been indexed to rebrickable, check it ! To get the building instructions : you can either buy it on rebrickable or on my blog : http://www.nico71.fr/transformer-rally-car/ You can see sample of the instructions : I plan to put in on mochub depending of the price so stay tuned. Fell free to comment :)

Sorry, I have not picture of leftover parts, and I do not think the suitable of the 42030 bucket is good becausde I design the movement of the fork to be used with a fork (speed and amplitude). And I think the bucket will be too heavy to work with, because of the placement of the linear actuators points (due to the scale). So maybe it is possible but with some modifications and surely a loss in amplitude of motion :)