nico71

Do not mind about it for now. You will adjust then to +1 or -1 stud (keep the constructions simple) depending of the bodywork you will do. The idea is to fit the bodywork you made using panel etc to your build in a coherent and homogeneous build. If you have a hole to fill, you can shorten the wheelbase for instance, or modify the proportion to have the correct fit of your panels. As long as the perception of the proportions is correct, it is ok. Do not rely at 100% on the blueprint, you can stretch it a bit to match the perfect build in Lego, as the model is scale down. This is exactly what I do. Start by the easy shape is the best to do for me. You start with the shape that you see flat and/or horizontal/vertical because there are easy to build (panel, beam) and easy to connect to the chassis (connector). Then you will have a good appreciation of the model, with the proportion and how many space you have between the elements. So you can then refine them as long as you proceed the more difficult elements. For this one for instance you can start by the doors, trunk and hood, maybe windshield which is an important element which will help you to position the other elements. And then finish with the more difficult elements, such as wheel arch, front parts, and the seams between every surface. I think you see my video about building the chassis of the Western Truck, where I talk about use blueprint and scaling. I will release the next episode about the bodywork, so I think you will be interested it, because what I have written above is what I explain in the video, with a visual demonstration on the Lego truck. 👍

Hello everyone, I have started a new series of video on my channel, about the design process of building a Western Star 6900 Twinsteer Truck (yeah I am a snowrunner player). I let you say the first part about the chassis : (english subtiles available) This video presents and describes the building process of creating the truck in Lego Technic, from the beginning of the project, the conception choice to the final result on the chassis. I will publish soon the next part about the bodywork. There is a lot to say, even on such a small creation, so I hope you like this type of content about creating something in Lego 👍

Phondly sent to me two EnBo PU battery packs for testing. Here is my review : (subtiles available if you do not understand my frenchy accent 🤓) Spoiler : definitively a good upcoming product !

Thanks :)

Thanks ! The front part was a difficult part, especially the front light which is iconic. I am less satisfied with the rear one but it is a compromise.

Peugeot 205 GTI A Peugeot 205 GTI made out Lego Technic, featured suspensions, steering with hand of god, opening doors, trunk and hood, with detailed engine, interior and custom stickers. Available in three colors (Red, White and Black) with building instructions. Context Creating a replica of the Legendary Peugeot 205 GTI was on my plan for a long time. After completing the Citroen 2CV and Mehari, I wanted to reproduce more car with the 43mm tires as I though this small scale fits well the purpose of this creation : creating a affordable and detailed replica of iconic car, in order to propose it for car enthusiast. I did it with the Fiat 500 and it’s now Peugeot’s turn to be replicated in Lego. This car is very iconic, especially in France. It was the answer to the Vokswagen Golf GTI from Peugeot. It came first with a 1.6l 105hp, then with a more powerful 1.9l 130hp for 880kg. Combining with a sport design with black trim, new wheels and GTI inscription, it makes a very fun car to drive and have strong performances for its time. The 205 is also popular thanks to the rally version, the T16. Peugeot drivers Vatanen and Timo Salonen won seven out of the 12 rounds to give Peugeot its first manufacturers’ title in 1985. You can see it in action, from a blessed rally time, with other very iconic car such as the Audi Quattro : Functions This tiny vehicle is packed with different functions, such as suspensions, steering, and openable elements. The front suspensions are double wishbones with dissembled spring from the 76138 parts, where the original car have MacPherson suspensions. I have chosen this solution because of the available space, I could created a MacPherson strut but I preferred to tazke a simple solution to keep the price as affordable as possible. This solution, combined with the track width does not authorise to have a front drivetrain, that is why the engine is only for decorating. The rear suspensions are, as real, composed of independent trailing-arm with shock absorbers, which bring more space between, for the back seats. = The steering is fairly standard but differs from my previous small scale cars. Indeed, I can not use the classic solution (9l connecting rod) I have made on the Citroen 2Cv or the Fiat 500 because the track width were bigger. So I used two 6l connecting rod which connect to the same center pivot on the steering lever. Then, the axle goes in the chassis where a bevel gearing bring the motion to the Hand of God on the roof. I have not succeeded either to add a working steering wheel because of the available space, so I preferred to have a hand of god which is more playable. This hand of god can be removed easily from the roof to be store in the trunk. To finish with the functions, the doors can be open, revealing a detailed interior with seats, dashboard, back seats and the famous “red carpet”. The hood can be opened, revealing the (fake) detailed engine with the intake cover, cylinder head, and a battery. The trunk can also be opened to store the Hand of God. Design Even if the car is small in Lego Technic, the design was an important things. It had to mimic closely the iconic elements and the proportions to be recognizable, even at small scale. So I work on the proportions and their perception, for instance with a lot of cheese slopes to have the correct shape on the rocker panel, and the front and rear bumper. The headlights were the most complicated things to replicate on this car, because of the particular shape of the front one, and the proportions of the rear one. The front one is composed of cheese slope in transparent to create the shape near the grill, and uses upside down headlight brick in transparent to fix the different elements. The rear one is more classic, using plates, slopes and tiles but are not exactly accurate to the original. They should be narrower and less height, but it is a compromise due to the Lego elements. Since the Fiat 500, I work hard on the surface finish, to avoid the hole or strange pin/ axle color. For instance, I used tiles to cover the holes, or chose the correct orientation of the connectors and beams to have clean and smooth surfaces (on the roof for instance). As the scale is small, it has to be as clean as possible to avoid the distraction to recognize the car. That is why I used elbow, wings and tiles on the C pillar to have the correct shape. The interior had the same approach. As I could not reproduce the details only with technic parts, I used plates, tiles, slopes etc to create the correct shape. It is clearly visible in the dashboard for instance. It is one of the reason why I can not connect the steering wheel to the steering arm with a strong building so I preferred a more detailed one. To finish, as I did for my Honda S2000, the car is covered with stickers. With the help of Forwart Sticker, he created a custom sticker sheet which fits very well the exterior of the car, with Peugeot emblem on the front and rear, GTI logo for the side, side strips, and even two stickers to choose the size of the engine (1.6 or 1.9). The interior has also some stickers, with a dashboard, wheel steering GTI logo, and three vents controls, based on the 1.9 interior. There are some things which could be better as explained before, but I am very satisfied with the design and the functions of this car. The sticker helps a lot for sure, it brings the final touch to have a nice and affordable scale model of the Peugeot 205 GTI. Pictures and Video Dimensions : Scale : 1/13.5, Wheel : Ø43mm, 28cm (L) x 14cm (W) x 11.5cm (H) Purchasing the creations or the instructions As the previous small scale vehicle I did, of course I have to create building instructions, but I wanted as usual to propose different colors, that is why I have created three different versions based on the available parts and color : red, white and black. These versions are proposed for sale at Buildamoc in a complete package which includes the Lego genuine parts, the building instructions in a PDF, and the sticker sheet. You can only purchased the instructions if you want on my website (see building instruction section below). Building Instructions The instructions are 132 pages, for 985 parts, step by step high resolution (300DPI) computer generated instructions with partlists, flexible parts, part annotations, in the same way as the official Lego one. In my quest of making better and better instructions, I have included this time the sticker in the instructions to shown where to apply them. They are tiny so I recommend to use a small pliers and to not shaking ! You can buy the sticker sheet on Forwart’s Store. Regarding the bill of material, you can checked the exact bill of material for each version on Rebrickable and export in whatever format you want : Peugeot 205 GTI (red version) (985 parts) Peugeot 205 GTI (White version) (985 parts) Peugeot 205 GTI (Black version) (985 parts) You can buy the instructions on my website : https://www.nico71.fr/peugeot-205-gti/ Fell free to comment, ask questions ! I would be happy to read your feedbacks 🙂

I use 2270 parts on the 4108. Not so much but better than my previous alternate. For the rack corner, indeed it could be cool but the size do not match any interesting creation. this is the same with the linear actuators which is a bit too which limite the insipiration models.

Thanks ! I have build at first a 6 inline engine, as on the real but it was too tall and collide with the engine cover. I could have increase the height of the engine cover but it doesn't match the proportion. So I have made the V8 instead at 90° to gain some space, and then decorate with the tube, exhaust, intake and rotating fans (that I love !). For the speed, indeed it is an important functions. I have test with different gearing but choose this one which combines the good speed and the precision of the control. You can switch a gearing if you want (20/28) to an other with same distance center, like 28/20 if you want more speed, or 12/36 to have less speed. Honestly, I find the 42100 is too slow to be enjoyable, even the other motorized functions. I always care about the speed and the accuracy of the functions, in order to be as fast as possible, but with accuracy on the movement. For instance the first section of the crane is slow because as it acts on the whole arm, the resulting movement on the hook is important. On the other hand, the speed of the second section is faster , because it acts on a smaller length or the arm. And of course, the rotation function is a mix between slow and fast but with a limited amount of gearing / lenght of the axle to avoid the play and shaky movement.

Indeed I like symmetry ! It was of course a compromise in terms of space but did not affect the drive anyway, even in small offroading as the model is heavy.

New creation ! An alternate model of the #42100 Lego Technic set, as a heavy tracked carrier, featured motorized tracks, outriggers, operating crane, fake engine with speed control, remote controlled with PoweredUp app. Context After completing my 42100 first alternate as a Vibroseis Truck, I wanted to make a second alternate, in a more classic way, with more parts and sturdier design to have a better offroad capabilities. So I have chosen the heavy tracked carrier from Powerbully as an inspiration, and started the design by the chassis and the motorized functions. Functions This creations use the 7 motors in the set donor. The first two XL motors are used for the drive of the tracks through gearing (20/28 and 12/36) which brings more speed than the official Lego Set. They are placed symmetrically in the chassis, and act also as part of it. The tracks use pendular bogies design, a feature I wanted to create at the beginning, comparing to the fixed bogie on the original set. The chassis has been designed accordingly to allow small rotation of the bogies, which helps to cross easily on obstacle. The second functions is the outriggers, which required a lot of design iteration to implement. They are driven by a L motor, placed underneath the rear platform, which drives an axle on each side through gearing. These axles drive then 4 linear actuators which are placed symmetrically to maintain a compact design of the stabilizers. They can not lift the model because of the operating force angle, but cover a large area around the model. Additional pads can be added, and stored on the rear platform. The next functions are on the operating crane. The crane rotation is operated by a L motor placed underneath the rear platform, which drives a spur gear on the turntable, through multiple gearing (no worm screw in this set). The final spur gearing has been chosen for its reliability comparing to the bevel one, which tends to make cracking sound under pressure. The crane has two sections. The first is driven by a XL motor placed in the chassis, and act as a part of it to hold the turntable. It drives directly the linear actuator through a U-join, ensuring a strong lifting. The second section is driven by a L motor placed in the arm, which drives also a linear actuator. This geometry has been chosen to have a strong crane which can lift the Diesel Generator. Indeed, I wanted at first to create a side folding crane, but the linear actuators were too long for the scale, and the placement of the motor did not fit the design. It results in a wobbly and weak crane at first. So I redesigned the whole crane based on a heavy model with no side folding functions, which ensure a better lifting force and stability. The second section of the arm can be extended with a manual pin, and the hook can be rotated by hand. The last functions is about the fake engine. As on my previous 42100 alternate, I wanted to have a fake engine which is not connected mechanically to any other functions. In order to create an idle function, and make it run faster if needed (operating crane for instance) as real. That is why a L motor is dedicated to this fake V8 engine and drives also two fans though gearing. The detailed engine is revealed by a cover, but the fans can be seen through the side windows. To finish with the openable elements and some details. The cabin door can be opened, revealing a detailed interior, with seats, dashboard, and even pedals. The rear platform is packed with some equipment, such as a big Diesel Generator with opening side cover, and also a pallet of fuel tanks. I have built at first a container, but it was too big and heavy to be lifted by the crane. So I have decided to divided the equipment in many other which are easier to handle. Design Process There is a lot to say about the design process, you can watch the Design Secrets of this creation on YouTube for more details (soon available). The main idea is that the functions drive the design in this case. I have started by making the functions that I wanted which affected the design : pendular bogie, outriggers, crane, and then work on the rest. It was very important to have a sturdy chassis to handle the weight of the model. That is why some electronics parts act as a part of the chassis, like the hubs. And that multiple beams and frame are used to reinforce the chassis from underneath to the top. The result is a flat underneath of the chassis, with 3-studs ground clearance, and accessible battery box. As the hubs are inside the chassis, I have created two small devices to push directly the physical power-on button of each hub, one on the rear platform, and one behind the cabin. Then I worked on the design and focused myself to have a sturdy look with a neat design. It has been done by the choice of the parts with the color and their orientation, but also the details and proportions. This time, I have chosen to use the original stickers as an advantage, by decorating more the model. For instance, with the warning label near the exhaust or hot parts, or for decorating the Diesel Generator or the front part. They add nice details, but are not mandatory if you have not applied them. The model is remote controlled using the official Lego app : PoweredUp App (available for Android and iOS). I have created a custom profile with slider, joystick and the program block to operate the model. It is pretty basic but works very good. I have also created a 36 pages tutorial to explain step by step how to do, and this tutorial is included in the instructions (you can see a preview at the end of the article). To finish with some limitations. I would have liked to make a folding crane, which can lifted the initial container, but it was not the case for the explained reason above. The consequence of the heavy crane is that it looks a bit massive and so the global proportion of the rear platform is a bit small. Apart that, I am really happy of the result, functions work good, the set is playable and sturdy, and I am satisfied with the design, especially the treatment of each white and dark grey surface in terms of finishing, details, and the way I handle the original sticker. Video More picture can be found on my website : https://www.nico71.fr/42100-model-c-tracked-carrier/ Building Instructions The instructions are 536 pages, step by step high resolution computer generated instructions with partlist, color coded cable with layout, flexible parts, in the same way as official Lego one. It also includes 36 pages step by step tutorial in PDF to configurate the model for PoweredUp App (available for Android and iOS). You can see some previews of the instructions and the tutorial on my website. Regarding the bill of material, as an alternate model, if you own the #42100 Lego set, you have all the needed parts. But you can checked the exact bill of material on Rebrickable and export in whatever format you want : https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-105180/Nico71/42100-model-c-tracked-carrier/#parts The instructions are for sale on my website or on rebrickable for 15€ excluding tax. Fell free to comment and ask questions 😀

New video on my Hot Rod : a design secrets. Where I explained in a spoken english video how I designed and how it works : I hope you like this type of content. More infos can be foudn here, including article, pictures and building instructions : https://www.nico71.fr/42127-model-b-bucket-hot-rod/

Thanks for your comment ! Indeed, making alternate model is always a compromise. Regarding the picture, I have a dedicated photo studio now but indeed, with the video, editing, writing etc, it requires the same amount of time than making the Lego creations !

Thanks ! The post is mostly copy/paste from the article on my blog. I am happy that somebody read the complete story as many people do not today, only focusing on the picture or video (which is good too but sometimes the answers to the questions I have are in the article). Thanks !

The page is A4 so resolution is 3508x2480px. For the edge on dark parts, you need to edit ldconfig file by replacing hexa code for the edge on the color you want (I work with ldraw library with Lpub3D for the instructions).

42127 Model B – Bucket Hot Rod An alternate model of the 42127 – Batmobile , as a Bucket Hot Rod. Features, steering connected to the steering wheel, RWD with fake V8 engine, opening doors, removable hard top, and light bricks in the engine and on the rear light, with building instructions. Context When the 42127 – Batmobile, was announced, it was a “meh” for me. Nice looking (especially the front) but a lack of functions for 1359 parts set : no suspensions, no working steering wheel, and of course no B model. The light bricks are cool features in Technic but the rear one is failed for me, as it is too far from the engine to illuminate correctly. That is why I wanted to make an alternate model of this set. There were not many options because of the different sizes between the front and rear wheels, so I chose to make a Bucket Hot Rod, in order to have a removable roof, for a better accessibility to the steering (and nice look too). Functions The steering is made using a classic rack and pinion solution, but I have put the pinion underneath the rack to have the steering axle as low as possible in the chassis to keep a low profile for a better looking. Then the steering axle goes to double bevel gearing to put the axle horizontally on the left. Then a U-join is used to connected it to the steering wheel. I had not enough place or clutch gearing to add a HOG so I decided to keep only the connection to the steering wheel in order to have a correct construction. The drivetrain is rather simple. The rear differential is connected to the engine with a straight axle which crosses the entire chassis and interior. Due to the difference of size of the tires, I have put the rear axle higher to keep good proportion regarding ground clearance which made it visible in the passengers area. That is why I have hidden it under a central console which also acts as the reinforcement of the structure. The lighting functions are interesting. I wanted to have a better illumination of the engine than the original model, that is why I have chosen to use the yellow light bricks on the engine which is stronger, and keep the red one for the rear lights. I have used this part on a side of the engine, where the light is, because it has a massive central hole which enables to illuminate the engine easily though the transparent material of the cylinders. Then, I have placed the light bricks on the correct height and as close as possible to have the best illumination possible. A lever placed on the center of dashboard is used to push the button on the light brick. The construction is made in a way that this lever is locked against the light bricks button when it is on, to ensure a constant functioning without having to operate continuously the lever (and a very satisfying clicking sound). The rear lights are not properly multiple lights on each side, but more a central lights composed of the red transparent lightsaber, where the differential can be seen. The red light brick is located behind the seats, on the left of the differential, which results in a complex building with plates to have the correct height without touching the differential. The light power is lower as it is placed further, but as the lightsabers are transparent red, it is enough to illuminate them. The button of the light brick is operated with a small lever located between the seat with a friction pin to ensure a constant functioning. To finish with more design functions, the doors can be open, revealed a detailed interior with dashboard (with use of the original stickers), seats and central console. The hard top can be removed to have a better accessibility to the steering wheel. I wanted at first to make a convertible roof, but I did not succeed with the parts, and in keeping the profile as low as possible. There were simply not enough room to store the convertible roof on the rear axle without damaging the look, that is why I have created a hard top instead. Design Process The design process is not very interesting regarding how I planed the model, but it is interesting in some building techniques. First I have started working on the front axle and a basic chassis, to have the lower profile as possible and scale the creation. Then I created the front grill which is an important and distinctive element. Then I created the engine with the light brick and its detail such as the intakes and exhausts because it has to look powerful. After that I reworked the chassis and created the rear axle and then connected the whole together. At this point, I have a pretty good idea what the model would look. I worked next on the steering wheel gearing and the interior, and to finish the rear details and light bricks. After some day, watching the creation and playing with, I have made some improvements, and it was done. The first building technique is how I create the steering column. It has to handle the gearing and the correct angle of the steering wheel, despite the lack of any fixed connector. I have used this part on one side, and two of this part on the other side which was not easy to implemented on the whole assembly with the U-join and connection with the bodywork and the chassis. It results in a very dense and complex structure which I am proud of. The second building technique is how I fixed the exhaust on each side. As you can see, there are attached to the chassis only with a friction pin and are locked on the engine. But it was not enough to prevent that they rotated under heavy playing. That is why I have used a construction with this part, which is placed recessed and underneath the elbow. This construction prevents the whole exhaust assembly to rotate, and as it is thin and dark, it is mostly invisible. There are others small interesting building techniques that I will develop in the Design Secrets of this creation later. To finish with a global appreciation, I am very happy with the design of this creation. Even if the parts were mostly black which is useful for the design, the lack of connector and axle joiner, and even axle makes the design a bit tricky to avoid mismatched colors. But in my opinion, I succeeded. I am happy with the details on the engine, which looks powerful, and the use of certain panels to create interesting shapes, like the mudguard on the front bodywork and on the back of the bucket, but also this panel to create the rear shape. It gives a nice shape with a low profile vehicle which looks like making drag race ! This model uses only 842 parts on the 1359 parts which seems to be low, but this model is smaller than the original A model and have not a full bodywork, just a bucket bodywork, and open engine area. Despite that, it has classic but playable functions and nice looking with the lights on and several details, it is a great addition to the original model. Pictures and Video Specs : 32cm (L) x 18cm (W) x 12cm (H) Building Instructions The building Instructions are 132 pages steps by step in 300DPI with partlist, flexible parts, white edge on dark parts, highlighted parts for each step. They are available on my blog and on rebrickable. I hope you like it ! Fell free to comment 😀

Thanks for your comment, can you point me which part do you talk about ?

Thanks :)

New creation : A Lego Technic Telescope, based on Newton tube with equatorial mount. Features folding tripod with extendable legs, azimuth, altitude, right ascension and declination movements. With building instructions and package ready to build at Buildamoc. Presentation It is not a surprise, I am a big fan of space and astronomy. I have purchased years ago a Newtonian telescope and -to be honest- I do not use as much as I would, because of the weight, the size and the needed time to assembled and make the polar alignment. So, why not creating a smaller version with working axis ? It will not used to see the star, but being a nice space toy and decorating object. Here is the result. This telescope is based on newton tube with equatorial mount. Which means, you need to make a polar alignment before pointing something to watch. And then , you only need to rotate the right ascension adjustment to follow a object. My Lego version is of course equipped with these rotation axis, with the altitude, azimuth, declination and right ascension adjustment but also some iconic details. It gives these dimensions as the result : 16.5cm (length) x 16.5cm (width) x 33.5cm (height). The declination and right ascension movement are made using worm screw on 24t gears to ensure irreversibility of the movements. While the azimuth and altitude are friction based movements. The azimuth axis is simply made with a small turntable, while the altitude movement is controlled by friction linkage which gives two stable positions due to the weight of the tube. The telescope is equipped with folding tripod with extendable legs made of sliding axle on friction beam. But also nice details like the counter weight, red dot finder, eye piece and cross section on the entrance of the tube, which make this type of telescope recognizable. It can also taken apart for storage as real, with removable tube, accessories, equatorial mount and folding tripod. I do not think I will make a design secrets on this creation as it is quite simple but to talk more about the design process : I have started by making the tripod. Indeed, I wanted to make a small creation, in order to be proposed for sale on Buildamoc, that is why I have chosen a 3 studs wide for the leg of tripod with central sliding feet made with a axle. I have made then many prototypes for the folding mechanism in terms of scale, collision and building. After scaling this tripod, I have made the tube with accessories, and start working on the equatorial mount. I wanted to make the right ascension, declination and altitude adjustment as on the real one, with worm screw and gearing. I have succeeded for the declination and right ascension but not for the altitude which is friction based linkage on my Lego version, while using a screw on the real one, because of the available space. Despite this default, I am really satisfied with the building of the equatorial mount. Putting all these rotation movements in this small build was not easy to do, that is why this part is full of trick to attach the parts together and using half beam to respect the scale. Pictures and Video Instruction and Buildamoc package This creation is perfect for an astronomy and space lover, as a gift, or for decorating your interior with cool and simple Lego toy. That is why I wanted to propose it for sale on Buildamoc in one package, with Lego genuine parts and PDF building instructions. You can purchase this complete package on the website Buildamoc or just the building instructions on nico71.fr if you have already the parts. For more pictures and purchase the building instructions : https://www.nico71.fr/lego-technic-telescope/ The instructions are step by step high resolution computer generated instructions with partlist, flexible parts, white edge on dark parts, highlighted parts for each step (300DPI, 69 pages / 45mo). The picturing bill of material is visible in the instruction previews and includes in the instructions. You can also checked the needed parts on Rebrickable : Inventory on rebrickable (257 parts) I hope you like this type of small creation, which is between a fidget toy and decorating object if you like astronomy / space. Usually I do not keep anything built but I think I will made an exception for this one ! (and prepared to removed dust each weeks...)

Nice modification ! Indeed the inventory has a lot of limitation of this set, especially for the colors. I was planning at first to create a Buggyra truck with hood nose but didn't manage to get a proper design and color balance with the parts, that is why I came to a European truck.

New creation for Halloween ! A box which contains a jumping spider revealed by a turning crank. With free video tutorial and pro building instructions. This Halloween creation is a simple creation, but, compared to my previous Halloween creation, I would like to go further with an interactive creation. After making some research about scary things, like clown or Lego set price, I have found the “jack in the box“. This idea was perfect for Halloween. At first I wanted to build a scary clown, but it was to hard with Lego Technic parts, so I have chosen a easy subject : a spider. Regarding the functioning, the spider is mounted on a linkage mechanism with two springs. These springs are built in a way to be lock on the downer position, but start to push as soon as the system is triggered. The trigger is made with a rotating lever connected to the crank which pushes the parallelogram. The openable top part of the box is also spring loaded to help to open it and keep in open position. I use some trick to have a correct functioning. The mechanism is equipped with two rubber parts to absorb the shock on the endstop. The top openable part is equipped with rolling parts, in order to reduce the friction to open the box. The trigger lever can rotate in both directions without endstop. It helps to not know when the spider will jump. It is also equipped with friction gear in order that the user can not feel when the trigger is operated. It contributes to have a spider that surprises, in that way we do not know when it will jump. So if someone comes to your house to ask for candy, ask him to just turn the crank of this box before… Gif animation of the movement (gif) English video (with subtiles) of how it works and tutorial to build it at the end : As the creation is pretty simple, I do not want to only make a pro-building instructions for sale. So I have experimented a new video format. I have made a free tutorial video (see above) and the pro-building instructions which is for sale. Both way enables to build the Halloween spider box, but if you want to follow an easier document created in a same way as the official Lego instructions, I recommend to buy the pro-building instructions. You can find this pro-instructions for sale on my website : https://www.nico71.fr/halloween-spider-box/ and see some preview including the partlist. Happy Halloween !

Thanks for your comment ! Indeed, racing sticker will look cool !

Hi, indeed it is inspired by the Mercedes Tankpool24 but the design was mainly decided in functions of the Lego parts, so some parts of the original design can be modified to fit the Lego constructions. Regarding the design process, I use indeed a kind of blueprint (here it was rendering picture from Forza Horizon 4 because it doesn't exist) to have the correct proportions and scale which I scale with paint.net. Then I work from pictures to reproduce the model (specific picture or general truck picture for inspiration), I have also a engineering background which helps to figure out how the original model are designed to reproduce what I can not see (chassis, transmission, axle etc). For the parts, I have build the Bugatti, and then dismantled and sorting in a specific tray (STÖDJA storage from Ikea), like that I can only work with the limited amount of parts and see what it remains.

Here is the presentation of my new creation : 42083 Model B – Race Truck An alternate model of the 42083 – Bugatti Chiron, as a Race Truck. Features, steering with steering wheel and HOG, 8 speeds DNR gearbox with controls inside and outside the cabin, suspensions, openable elements and tilting cabin, with building instructions. Context After creating my alternate model for the 42115 – Lamborghini Sian, I wanted to make an other alternative for a super car set that I had : the Lego Technic 42083 – Bugatti Chiron. I wanted at first to create another car with the parts, but considering the limited inventory and two-tone colour, it was hard to find a suitable model. The limited number of existing alternate builds for this set have proven that it is not easy to come up with a solution. So, as for my 42115 alternate model, I have made something “different” and built this race truck inspired by the Mercedes Tankpool24. Again, it should be my first 1/8 alternate super car, but it is a 1/12 truck. Functions The functions are quite standard but with interesting design behind. First the steering, it is operated by a rack and pinion though a bevel gearing connected to a hand of god located on the centre of the chassis. I did not want to put the HOG on the top of the cabin to avoid the possible tilting of the model due to the overhand of the heavy cabin. The steering wheel is connected to the steering mechanism with a U-join and a 8-tooth gear which drives a 24-tooth on the chassis. It enables to be quick disconnected when the cabin is tilted. The second functions are the suspensions. The front suspensions are double wishbone with two shock absorbers by side, to compensate the heavy weight of the cabin. The rear suspensions is a rigid axle with only two shock absorbers with more angled design to compensate the difference of weight between the front and rear. The heart of the model is the gearbox. It is composed of a DNR selector which enables to choose between : drive (wheels drive the gearbox which drives the fake V8 engine), Neutral, or Reverse (wheel drives the fake V8 engine directly counter clockwise). The gearbox is based on my previous 8 sequential gearbox from the 42115 model B – Ford F150 (which is already based on the project “pimp my sian“). I have reworked the axle I have used and how it is build to reduce the friction and enables a smoother functioning, especially on the steeper mechanism. The control of the gearbox are placed on each side of the Hog on the centre of the chassis. The left selector (grey beam) is used to choose the mode (D, N, R) and the right selector is used to choose the speed. You can note that I used a small trick with connectors and coloured axle to label the way each functions works with + and – signs, and colour coded (red on left side, + is drive, – is reverse, yellow on right side,+ is upper speed, – is downer speed). I wanted to place the operating lever on the chassis for easy controlling (compare to my 42115 Ford F150) but I did not want to have a cabin empty of controls. That is why I have used a linkage mechanism to connect each selector to other control in the cabin. Like that, the two grey beams inside the cabin are also connected to the gearbox functions. As, the cabin can be tilted to reveal the mechanism and the detailed engine, the cabin gearbox controls are fixed on the chassis to minimize the play in functioning to have a better functioning. You can note also that I have used a small bar to divide the space between the two gearbox controls inside the cabin, rather than used a beam or connector to minimize the friction. It is not perfect in terms of reliability because of the play in the linkage mechanism but add a nice design feature inside the cabin. Last functions are about the openable elements. As told before, the cabin can be tilted, but also have the openable doors which reveal a detailed interior with seat, dashboard, gearbox control and fire extinguisher. The centre of the chassis has also some openable elements, to reveal the gearbox, the steeper mechanism and the gearbox lock mechanism. I find this feature very interesting to understand how the gearbox works and avoid having to return the model to look underneath. Design Process As usual, when building an alternate model with specific inventory, I have started by the bodywork, to ensure that it is possible to build something good and enough recognizable. Therefore I have started to build the front and rear bumper, then the cabin, and finish with the side. It was not easy as the amount of coloured parts is limited and that it lacks some important parts like azure or dark blue connectors. The idea was so to compensate the lack of connectors by choosing the correct orientation of the beam and the panel, and fill the hole with other parts like tile and plate but also black parts. Apart from some blue connectors which is not very pretty to see, I find the result very good, with a plain cabin without strange colour or constructions but also a plain below bodywork with bumpers and side. Even if the bottom of the cabin is dark blue instead of azure blue, it reminds the below bodywork and works fine in term of visual appearance. To talk about the design of this creation, I would like to introduce the “flow” or “fluidic” principle. It is a way to describe how aerodynamic a design is, by talking about how the different elements are visually connected and how they look homogeneous between them. For this model, I wanted to have a “racing” style in terms of design. That is why it has a massive bumper wider than the cabin for instance and that I choose the have the rear wheel a bit higher than the front, to make the truck plunging on the front. I have also create a sort of ascending line which goes front the front to the rear with the side panels used for the cabin, but also with a non horizontal cabin roof with rear spoiler. Last trick about the design is to keep the homogeneity in the building. In Lego, it is made by choosing the correct orientation of the beam, placement and colour of the panels and cover the hole when it is not nice to see. For instance, the bottom of the bumpers and sides is black, to enhance the perception of the other coloured parts like the side or the above part of the bumper. But this creation has also its limitations, mainly because of the restrictions of the parts. First the model could be better in terms is styling by replacing the blue connector by azure or dark blue connectors or replace some coloured axle which is too much visible. I would appreciate to have more flexible parts like ribbed hose to create more exhaust pipe and turbo, to have a more detailed and powerful engine. Regarding the functioning, I would like to have other suspensions arms to have a different placement for the shock absorbers or put it one more on each side. Because, when the cabin is tilted, the weight compress the shock absorbers and the truck is plunging. It works fine when the cabin is in place but I would have to have more stiffness on front suspensions. More ball joint elements would have been interesting to create a proper live axle for the rear instead of a basic rigid axle. As the HOG and gearbox controls are on the chassis, it is easy to operate it, combining with a visible mechanisms with opening elements, it gives a didactic model for understanding of the gearbox mechanism I like also the fact this alternate model is simply not a 1/8 supercar as everyone can expect. This is something unexpected from a original set like that and at the final, the parts restrictions fits well this truck. Video I will create a design secrets video of this creations showing the detailed design process in some weeks. You can find the building instructions and more pictures on my website. I hope you like, do not hesitate to comment, ask questions :)

Thanks ! I have not the time to present the model here but I will in the week. Having the gearbox and other mechanism visible was one part of the design process because I did not want to roll over the model to see underneath the mecanism. For your questions, I have minimize the turning radius because of the collision between the wheels and the shock absorbers. As the Bugatti comes with this part as suspensions arm, it doesn't offer many solution to fix the shock absorbers. I could not use a linkage mechanism because of the control beam which pass under the chassis to connect the cabin controls. To enable a better turning radius, you can remove the 3/4 pin in the steering mechanism which act as end stop (page 18, step 36), you will gain more turning radius but the endstops will be the wheels against the shock absorbers. I can not put an other shock absorbers to the other side because there where the connecting rod for the steering mechanism. I hope it answer to your questions :)

Thanks, I do not know if unseal a Chiron is worth for an alternate model but I am happy that you like the model ! I wanted to make something different than a car with this set as the restrictive inventory and the two shade of blue were complicated to manage and that I didn't want to reproduce a car but with strange looking because of the shade of blue. I will published the creation on the 4th of Oct. and explain the design process behind.