nico71

Thanks ! The scale is very good for that, a compromise between 1/35 (30mm tire) which is too small and the 1/25 (43mm tire) which is too big. I wanted to create the smallest creation to fit all I need to keep cost low and have maximum playibility regarding available space to play (I like big rig, but they need too much space to drive). That is why I came up with that scale (and because I like the look of the tire). In deed, all trailer axles have the same angle, for simplicity. At start I wanted to try to have different angle but as it is composed of linkage which cross on the center, it was not easy to do it without having a side which turn more than the other (linkage effect as you need to choose a side the operate primarily). I have then looking to different length of the knuckle but as the wheel are close together there is not enough space, or I can limit all the wheel angle to small angle but it doesn't make sense for playability if it is too close of the fixed axle setup. The best is to use rack and pinion with gearing but it create too much backlash and play so suitable for back driving. Thanks ! In fact you can not, first because there is no room for the bevel gearing near the servo (it occupy the whole cabin), secondly because there is also the control+ version, which do not have the same form factor and the cross axle in it, and lastly and more importantly, because you can not operate the servo motor by hand, it is too hard to rotate. So I prefer the approach with or without motor. But the true difficulty was to have the same attachment point or at least the same parts to attach all the various motors, there is only some leftover parts for the hog. A way to use the manual and motorized together is to use a system to disengage the servo motor like a clutch, as I did on my Rally Car V1 in 2013/ Thanks TLCB for the featuring !

Totally, but the aim was to share the most of the parts between the two versions in order they are upgradable by just adding the motors without the need to all dismantling. The speed is not that bad with a gear multiplication and tiny knob. It also enable to lock the model in position which is important especially in articulated steering when offloading (even by pushing by hand, it avoid an obstacle turning the steering). EDIT : I assume you talk specifically of the manual version

Thanks David for the updated edition ! I have not read yet but this is still a reference book for who are interested of want to create clock. Bravo for the works !

After some demands, I have released a manual version of the Werner Uniknick with the removal of the electronics, and adding a Hand Of God and ratchet mechanism for the winch. Both versions are included in a single purchase / download as they are very close, and are upgradable from and to each version. The Bill Of Material on Rebrickable have been updated for that with the adding of 14 parts for the manual version. Ghost view of the functions (manual version) : Link unchanged : On my website : https://www.nico71.fr/product/werner-uniknick/ On rebrickable : https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-241304/Nico71/werner-uniknick/#details

Thanks for your comment ! Here is a picture of the real one : And some old footage : Indeed the articulated steering is not the best for trial truck, ultimately because the center of gravity are affected while turning and balancing. So as long as it remains on the support polygon, evertyhing is fine, but when it goes out, the model tip over easily. The steering made by linear actuator make it accurate but a bit slow, so yes, back and forth movement is tedious. I can put a servo steering directly on the articulation, with buwizz servo control, I can have both accuracy and speed, but I do not want to always power on the steering actuation during a turning to keep some power to the motors. I find the linear actuator more aesthetically accurate to the reality (hydraulic in real). The portal hub is very usefull to have the output at the same height of the chassis but being a 4x4, it block a lot on the root as shown on the video. A 6x6 will have a better performance here, or a 8x8 Tatra style with a very short distance between axle 2 and 3. I have not use the winch during the truck trial. I think it can help and we are authorized too, but to have some pulling power, it is geared down and so are slow, so the needed time to unwind, attach, wind, detach, wing will take more time that just try and retry to pass the obstacle I think. At final, this is primarily a reproduction of a forest truck, that I bring to a trial truck competition so not the best in term of performance as not intended too. Now I need to create sort of attachment to the front and/or rear ^^

A 1:15 LEGO replica of the Werner Uniknick, an unimog based articulated forestry truck from 70’s. Features 4×4 transmission, articulated steering with linear actuators, winch, fake engine and openable elements, built for the mid scale truck trial competition for the 2025 Buwizz Gathering. Specs : Werner Uniknick UK52/60 Torpedo Cab (German info website) Dimensions : 30 x 16 x 19.5cm, Scale : 1/15, Wheels : Ø81mm Built for the 2025 Buwizz Gathering mid scale truck trial competition Power functions Motors (Drive : 2x L, Steering : 1x M, winch : 1x M) Battery source : Buwizz 2.0, compatible with any PFS 2.4GHz controller that connect to PFS motors 4×4 drivetrain with differentials (compatible with red 28t crown) and portal hub (gear : 20/24 and 8/24) Removable working OM616 i4 fake engine Steering with dual linear actuators, working steering wheel in the cab Suspension : central oscillating articulation limited by a connecting rod Openable hood and doors Winch with M-Motor and worm gear / 8t gear Control+ motor swapping possible with reworking the rear axle frame length Ghost view of the functions : See in action : With my irst participation to the buwizz Trial Truck competition, not the best but succeed to finish the race with almost every pieces (RIP the exhaust) ! Links and infos More picture and instructions can be found at my website, and rebrickable with the partlist : https://www.nico71.fr/product/werner-uniknick/ https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-241304/Nico71/werner-uniknick/#parts You can use any electronic source, as long as it handles the PFS motors and with the same form factor as the buwizz 2.0. Using Control+ motor is possible but required to extend by one stud the rear chassis, and the hub will be placed on the top which can block the winch. Feel free to comment, ask question 👍

When you need a compact fake engine, without metapieces like 2×2 cylinder or new cam and piston , this is not easy to create. You have to make a functional model, without being blocky and if possible nice to see, top of the cake if it is easily removable and not part of the structure. During my works on different cars and trucks, I have designed several compact fake engines in different configuration and building style. Today I propose them for free in a collection of instructions and 3D model. Feel free to build it, look how it is made and reuse it. Each engine has its particularity : Nissan 4 Inline (based on LZ20BT, used in my Nissan Skyline KDR30) : longitudinal, rear wheel driven, 2l axle piston, beam to hold them, brick-built crankshaft, easily extendable to 6 inline Cummins 6 inline (based on X15, used in my Western Star 6900 Twinsteer) : longitudinal, 2l axle piston, stacked 3l connector to hold them, liftarm-built crankshaft, easily extendable Citroen FWD 4 Inline, (based on 11D, used in my Citroen Traction), longitudinal, front driven (gearing on the front), 2l axle piston, stacked 2l connector to hold them (when the 3l connector is too expensive), brick built crankshaft, with half stud connector for the chassis mounted if you want to place as low as possible with a 12t/12t spur gearing CAT V8 (based on CAT3208, used in my 6×6 Offraod Truck and Kodiak), longitudinal, 2l axle piston, angled stacked 3l connector to hold them, liftarm-built crankshaft, easily extendable Honda 4 transverse inline (based on B16, used in my Honda CR-X Del Sol), transverse mounting, gear inside the liftarm-built crankshaft for front wheel driven car, 1/2 pin piston on 1/2 beam, extendable to 5 cyl, no more Instructions and 3D models : https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-238705/Nico71/free-engine-collection/#details 😀

New instructions for a 14-year old model, the Integraph ! If you are allergic to maths, run ! A LEGO Technic replica of an Integraph, a mathematics instrument created in 19th century by Abdank-Abakanowicz, for plotting the integral of a graphically defined function. Original model (Coradi edition) : How it works : The grey chassis with wheels move in x axis, the input stylus along the y axis. The stylus is placed on a sliding sub chassis with a slot. On this slot come the carrier which is connected to the main orientation arm, so when the stylus move, the orientation of this main arm change. On this main arm, there is a sliding mechanism which hold the red carrier. This red carrier is build in a parallelogram way, in order the orientation of the two beams remains parallel. And on the extremity of this red device, the rotating beam is connected the contact wheel. So when the stylus input moves, the main arm rotates, and the orientation of this main arm is transferred to the contact wheel. The contact wheel is mounted on a carrier which can freely slide left right in y axis, and hold also the pencil with rubber band, plotting the output graph. The trick is that the contact wheel acts as a tangent wheel where its orientation will defined where it goes by acting on the carrier, being free of moving on the chassis. When the tangent wheel is aligned with y axis, the carrier does not move. When it is angled, the tangent wheel forces to displace laterally the carrier, and as its orientation depends of the y value, it moved along the differential curve and plotting the output graph. But why its integrate ? Because by definition, the inclination of the tangent of the integral curve -the slope or gradient- is equal to the ordinate of the initial curve to integrate (differential curve). If you look the machine in the reverse order, and follow a curve using the tangent wheel, the orientation of the tangent wheel define the gradient of the curve and so its derivative on each point which is the Y value. All the mechanical complication around are just to transform translation into rotation movement, and decouple each movement to be independent and not dependent of their position with the different slide and carrier. The applications of the integraph was numerous, calculate or divide areas, determine centres of gravity, calculate moments of inertia or stability, load and resistance, and solve algebrical equations like simple differential equation. Compared to a planimeter which gives the area result under the curve, the integraph give the representation of the function (primitive) so further calculus can be done. Therefore it was use in applied mathematics and physics, civil engineering with earth transport and bridge design, electricity with electromagnetism, shipbuilding, irons constructions, optics and ballistics with displacement and velocity determination for instance. Example of result ( f(x)=x and x²+y²=r²) These types of machines reached their peak with the mechanical differential analyser and balistic calculator in the twentieth century and then decreased in popularity with the advent of the computer. Video : Some additional resource : Animated Diagram Online and Displacement simulation (youtube) Wikipedia Page Mathsinstruments page about an integraph Bruno Abdank-Abakanowicz books from 1886 (author, chap 3. french) Integraph Page on Drawing Machine Instructions : https://www.nico71.fr/product/integraph/ Bill of material : https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-237895/Nico71/maths-instrument-integraph/#parts For the model, I used a quite rare boat weight ref 73090. You can replace by any heavy part of about 50gr or use the alternate LEGO weight setup below (remove boat weight, add the displayed partlist, use the weightreplacement pdf). How to use it : Fix the paper, ideally A3 for both input and output, on the support with tape Place the integraph parallel to x axis, and the stylus on the smaller value in y. Place the tangent wheel carrier on the middle of its travel. Displace the integraph along the x value (horizontal left to right) while following the curve with the stylus (vertical y value) You can help the yellow sub chassis to move, as wheel as the tangent wheel carrier if it get stuck It is easier to be two to operate the machine (on for the x axis by holding the wheeled chassis traight, one for the y axis to follow the curve with the stylus) Ensure the surface is plane and the pencil touch it without too much force (do not lift the tangent wheel) If a part of the curve is missing, you can draw by hand if you have integrated a continuous functions

It is made in Chinese bricks but yes it is quite nice to build its own creation :)

Hello ! I have published the design secrets video about this creation. If you like deep dive into technique, have a look ! (english spoken, 13min) : Regarding the first use ofsplit connector + heavy cv join, ApachaiApachai told me he was inspired by xfeelgoodx, so I credit here for that brilliant idea : https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-77951/xfeelgoodx/monster-jeep/#details

Thanks for the post and picture. But your axle is nowhere a 11l knuckle to knuckle axle, but a 13stud. This is why you have room to place the servo like that and you can use 5l suspensions arm without problem. Attention, the use you do of the suspension knuckle 6571 on the geared hub is problematic as this piece lack a bevel on a side, so it collides against the geared hub and make it force when steered. It is better to use the new 3l suspensions arm or the 5l in your case. Also, to me you can not use the daytona differential on your axle, but I can miss judge, let me know if this is correct as you stated it works. Have a look to the my axles on rebrickable, https://rebrickable.com/users/Nico71/mocs/ The constructions is different because of the constrain of 11l width, that is why I have waited to get the news 3l suspensions arm from the Bronco. If you want a similar axle as yours in 13l width, have a look to my Kodiak axle here : https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-155168/Nico71/chevrolet-kodiak-c70-control-version/#details

Thanks ! If I fit the Daytona diff, it collides with the servo, so I think you raise by one stud the servo on your model, which is not possible here because on the top it should be room for the fake engine, so I have made to compromize. If you have link on your work, let me know. For the suspension arms, there are angled to have more ground clearance and better secure the cv join and axle inside the diff. It is not illegal to my understanding as it doesn't force on the part but use the natural play, but clearly "out" the grid system. Thanks !

A small post to let you know I issued 3x free instructions for 11l motorized front axle using the news 3l suspensions arms from the Bronco. Background : The release of the new 3L suspensions arm is a very good news for axle building. The previous 5l arms was too big to create short width axle with gearead hub. So it was mainly use for 1/17 truck with 62.4mm wheel. After buying a LEGO Bronco, I start making 11-stud width axle which opens a wide range of LEGO Truck. Indeed, for trucks which have large tires compared to their width (for instance 13R22.5 14R24 or 16R20 like heavy hauler, logging truck, offraod truck, or military one), it is mandatory to reduce the width of the axle by 2 studs to comply with the scale if using the 62.4mm wheel. So here are the result, a 11-stud wide motorized front axle for truck with big tires at 1/19-1/21 scale, with free instructions and 3D models. Available in 3 Versions : No Onboard Servo : Onboard PF servo : Onboard PU (control+) Version : Specs : – 11-stud width (knuckle to knuckle), 13cm wide with 62.4mm wheel – Geared hub + CV-join (only two needed, other are standard CV-Join) – Inclined underneath suspensions arms (can be considered as illegal but give better ground clearance and differential secured) – Equipped with a 28t simple bevel differential, No onboard version compatible with all the differential. Onboard version NOT compatible with red 28t of yellow 22t crown – Steering with rack and pinion, 4 studs distance from the knuckle axis to use 180° of rotation of the Servo motor without forcing on axle end stops – Suspended with 3 or 4 links (2+1 central or 2+2 lateral) + 2 springs with lateral movement constricted (can be replaced by harder if needed), no need of Panhard rod but you can add one for better stability – Simple chassis for suspension mounting included (can be used for car depending of the scale, like pickup truck) Downloads : PDF instructions and 3D model (Ldraw+Studio) for building convenience https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-236196/Nico71/11-stud-motorized-front-axle-no-onboard-servo/#details https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-234780/Nico71/11-stud-motorized-front-axle-onboard-pfs-servo/#details https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-236302/Nico71/11-stud-motorized-front-axle-onboard-pu-servo/#details Have a nice build with these, please credit me if you reuse the model in case of commercial use 👍 Also, for tracking, here is the dedicated topic to my 6x6 Offroad Truck released in May if you missed it :

Thanks ! I wanted at first to get the two speed gearbox motorized but it takes too much space and so the baterry box was not at the lower position (in the bed instead) so I prefer to get the gearbox manual and have a flat chassis with the battery inside. I see it as a two-mode shifter (speed or torque) and add an interaction like the openable elements even if it is motorized, it is nice to interact physically with it. The gearbox is operated by red levers on each side, because the fake engine axle pass on the center. So I use 4l axle with stop to prevent the axle to be easily pull out when we remove the knob : Yes the steering 12 bevel gear which act as an articulated gearing (replace a cv-join) is placed inside a U shape (dark grey on the picture) which is articulated on the perpendicular axis of the bevel gear : For the round cylinder 2x2 on first rear axle, you are right ! It is for replacing the axle joiner and fill the gap to avoid the small tan 12t bevel gear to fall down, because the CV join axle is not sticking out (because I use a thing triangle to lock to drivetrain so it lack 1/2 stud). You can see that I do not need that on the last axle : For the wheel cover, I like to add more details now with non-technic pieces, but I trying that these part are not mandatory for structural. Like that, people can build a cheaper and simplified version if there had not all this small detailed piece (bar, clips etc), so the design will be simpler but still nice to see as composed of technic parts (the bed and flatbed require 114x 1/2 pins for the smooth finishing with tile for instance). Thanks ! It is a good base at this scale but it can not compete in heavy truck trial I think over bigger model with bigger wheel, as it lacks some ground clearance and breakover angle. But the drivetrain and suspensions setup can be reuse and extended to match the 81mm wheels without too much trouble, so you will have a very solid trial truck ! Thanks Jundis, Steph and Paul for your comments !

You are right, in fact I do not have these gears so I use the old one ! I am glad that you notice the oscillating bevel gear instead of CV-join on the steering, it makes me gain some space. Tiny truck but full of tricks ! Kudos to Legov94 for the original idea (credited in the text) ! It is indeed a very effective way at this scale to avoid having the walking beam too high, like on my Western Star 6900 TS.

Hello everyone, I create this topic to present you my new creation, a motorized 6x6 Offroad Truck. I usually post in this topic, but I think it will be better for forum search to now separate it as it start becoming very long. Let me know admin if this is a problem. The model : A 1:20 scale motorized offroad truck, equipped with 6x6 transmission, working fake engine, steering, full suspensions, manual gearbox, and openable elements. Completed with 80's look with colorful side stripes, quite efficient and compatible with different power sources (Infrared PFS, Buwizz, 2.4Ghz controller). Specs : Offroad model based on International, Western Star and Scammell Truck from 70-80’s Dimensions : 41.5 x 13 x 17cm, Scale : 1/20, Wheels : Ø56mm Power functions Motors (2x L+1x Servo Motor), battery source : PFS, Buwizz or 2.4GHz 6×6 drivetrain with no differential, primary reduction : 12/20 12/20 12/20 Two speed gearbox (manually operated), ratio : 16/16 or 20/12 Removable working CAT V8 fake engine Steering with rack and pinion, cv-join and oscillating bevel gearing Front suspension : live axle with 3 link arms, 2 spring and 1 Panhard rod Rear suspension : walking beam axle with parallel links and 2x Panhard rod Openable hood with two locking positions, openable doors Openable and removable sideboard bed, flatbed with end roller underneath Compatible with regular Power Functions Battery or Buwizz / 2.4GHz Battery See in action : About the model : I wanted to build for a while a successor of my Western Star 6900 with AWD this time for more offroady session. So I chose a 6×6 truck with the same 56mm tire and started in 2024 ,first with the chassis and drivetrain. I incorporated some good ideas from other people that I must credit : Gyenesvi for the floating U shape connector on the front axle, enabling to remove one CV Join and gain space. The use of the larger Split connector to fits the heavy CV join, from Apachaihapachai, enabling to build a compact and sturdy front axle. Finally the vertical mounting of the towball arm, from Legov94, to lower the oscillating point and improve the suspensions movements. All these solution enable to build in a more compact way, and so offer more space to place carefully the motors and the battery box for weight distribution, as well as having more function like the manually operated gearbox with a slow and fast speed. Layout of drivetrain, steering, and suspensions : I also use a bevel gearing for the steering axle as an oscillating axle, to avoid using a CV join and gain space to place the servo motor in the cab, and keep the hood empty to fit the V8 working fake engine. As usual, the engine is removable easily, as well as the sideboard bed, which are functions that I like for playability. In addition to that, I chose to make the truck in one color with colorful stripping, at first white, but then in black with red / orange / yellow stripe, which remember the Toyota or Kenworth color scheme of 80’s truck. It result in a nice, sturdy and efficient truck, while keeping the adaptability features for upgrade, like swapping primary gears and battery to fit what people have. Of course the performance are limited to the tires size and the lack of portal hub, so while the approach angle is good, the breakover one is not (as shown in the video). It remains a not-so-heavy truck with nice look which performs safely on rough terrain. 📕 You can find more picture and the instructions on my website : https://www.nico71.fr/product/6x6-offroad-truck/ (instructions are in two versions, PFS IR and Buwizz, with buwizz profile and tutorial) 🧩 Rebrickable inventory : https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-219862/Nico71/66-offroad-truck/#parts Let me know what do you think, do not hesitate if you have questions 👍

A new creation quite unusual, a 30ft workboat, based on Jemar Norpower 30ft boat, with dual winch with ratchet and probe, front winch, seismic element supports, and opening engine cover. Specs and History : Dimensions : 46x19x25cm (without end probe), scale 1/23, 1789 pcs Dual winchs with 2/4mm hose with ratchet mechanisms on each Front winch with ratchet (no anchor) Two seismic probes Retractable side sensor (sliding mechanism with two sections) Articulated rear gantry for support the probe hoses Articulated side arms for probe hoses recovery Openable rear guardrail Openable engine cover Articulated rudder (non functional) Detailed offset cabin with interior Support Frame Original Model : This boat is used for seismic exploration using acoustic probe in the sea. The 1 km cable is unloaded with the winch and pull in the sea, where the end probe can move to adjust its direction and depth and communicates with the boat directly though the cable. After the data acquisition, the boat use the telescopic cable lifter and the two flaps to lift the cable from the sea to wind back and get the probe. The cable lifter can also be equipped with fixed acoustic sensor (displayed on the LEGO model). You can see the real boat in action here In action : About the model : This model was designed in 2022, based on Jenmar Norpower boat with Sercel Livery. The aim was to display in a showroom to show the functioning of the boat. That is why it doesn’t float and is not motorized. It was nevertheless quite a challenge to reproduce the boat, especially the hull and the colored decks with all the details, as well as the seismic specific functions to be functional without affecting the sturdiness of the model. After some demands and good feedback on the overall design, I decided to make the PDF instructions as it can be easily modified to accommodate other purpose such as fishing, rescue, research etc. The instructions is available on my website and rebrickable.

Thanks ! Thanks ! Indeed the sidepod was really difficult to do, that is why the scale matter. Bigger, it would have not be that clean I think, here the different size of lego elements matchs well the shape.

Thanks ! Indeed, there is not so much reaction since the social media advent, but some people are still on forum or use rss feed so I post here.

Thanks for letting me know !

New creation that I design in 2024 for a customer, now officially released with instructions ! Oreca 07 LMP2 This is a 1/10 replica of the Oreca 07 LMP2 in LEGO Technic, features rear wheel drive with V8 fake engine, steering with HOG and steering wheel, front and rear double wishbones suspensions, and removable elements to reveal all the internal details. Available exclusively on Buildamoc (instructions and kits). Specifications Scale : 1/10, dimensions : 49cm x 21cm x 13cm Rear wheel drive, V8 engine with exhaust and oil radiator on the side, no gearbox Front wheel steering with removable hand of god and return to the steering wheel in the cockpit Detailed cockpit with offset seat and dashboard/button on the side Front suspensions with double wishbone and vertical spring on rocker liftarm Rear suspensions with double wishbone and horizontal spring with connecting rod and rocker liftarm Removable rear center part to reveal the engine and the rear suspension mechanism Removable rear part with the side to reveal the detail on the engine Removable / openable front assembly to see the front suspension mechanism and steering Openable doors Custom sticker sheet with Team Turkey Livery I have unfortunately not real picture as I do not build the final model, only the prototype. The original model (Team Turkey ) : You can see in action in the video below (prototype) : Kudos to RS BAKKER to design the sticker livery Instructions and complete kit available at Buildamoc Exclusively. Partlist available on my website (xml, csv, pdf and rebricklable list). Let me know what do you think ! I personally think this is the most beautiful 1/10 car I have made, with great result considering the low amount of parts 😀

Very nice to see other loom ! Yours is pretty fast, I do not know how you will handle the shuttle especially at this speed, but this is why I use coded drum to sequence the different movements, so the shuttle has the time to travel. I advise to start working on that point, even if it is not finished or reliable because as soon as you put the shuttle and reels, this is a completely different world with the tension and non LEGO material. This is always the same feeling when I build braiding machine, movement is perfect without non LEGO stuff, and when I put them, a lot of problem occurs, so good luck !

New creation ! A fully mechanical bilateral letter scale, with dual dials from 0 to 175gr, ideal for antique objects enthusiasts or to decorate a desk. How it works ? This machine is used for weighing letters or small objects, inspired by Columbus Maul scales. It rely only on mechanical components, with connecting rods, levers, dials and counterweights. It measures 20cm (L) x 10cm (W) x 28cm (H). The upper tray is connected to each pendulum side with connecting rods, which share a coaxial rotation axle. When weight is applied, the two pendulum sides move apart, the greater the weight is. One pendulum side holds the cursors on it, the other holds the dials. The bottom cursor indicates the weight from 0 to 80gr. It is placed further from the center of rotation of the two pendulum sides, and with an angle between the connecting rod and the pendulum closer to 90°, which makes the measurement more sensitive and linear. The upper cursor displays the weight from 70 to 175gr, with the same functioning as the previous dial, but at a less distance and an acute angle between the rods and the pendulum. This causes less displacement of the cursor as the weight increases, allowing a non-linear scale and a reading of a greater weight. This combination of functioning and dials enables a fine reading of the weight on the bottom cursor, and a rough reading of larger weights on the other cursor, with keeping the symmetry of the scale which is important for its functioning. If you want to read more about Letter Scale, please visit this excellent website. Regarding the design, the most complicated things was the symmetrical weight despite different side (one with dials, one with cursors), with keeping a nice look to be a decorating objects. The sticker was also not easy to draw as the scale a non linear so a lot of try and retry to find the correct setup. Regarding the accuracy, I would say it is something like 5g for the fine reading (0-70gr) and 10g for the large one (70-175gr) with a maximum error at the max due the friction (bar work well at low angle), with a good repeatability as long as you center the mass on the tray, and a minimum weight of 5gr (below it is not very repeatable measure). See it in action (with some tips and tricks) : Links : 📕 Instructions on my website : https://www.nico71.fr/product/letter-scale/ 🧩 Bill of material and instructions on Rebrickable : https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-202559/Nico71/bilateral-letter-scale/#parts 🎁 Complete kit (Genuine LEGO parts) : https://buildamoc.com/products/bilateral-letter-scale Let me know you though about ! 👍

I have missed this book, wow, what an achievement @Davidz90 I have been looking for your work from years, being a big source of inspiration for escapement and suspensions.

This Patrol is very recent, mostly inspired by other, surely by Apachaihapachai. Indeed, that is not easy to create a small driven and steerable axle, but the part combination is only one side for the solution. The other side is to containing the weight and the axle geometry to keep low the taken-apart force.