jesse66058

The left frontwheel is better focused in the new picture?

Hello Agrof, Have you seen this suspension build by Nicjasno: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/0qt73qemhnu35gq/AABJhlywSLVug4suVuOI5waNa/2013-11-17%2016.57.57.jpg?dl=0 I think if you make some small changes and replace the u-joints with pulley wheels you will get far.

Done BrickBilly!

Since you're a new member i cannot send you a personal message yet. Something about a rule of a minimal of 25 posts to activate personal message's between forum users. I don't now if an administrator could help since i don't want to publish my mail here.

You mean this thing?

Totally rebuilded? That's some work! But yeah, curious how you make it again and again. I think this is one of the best methods to learn how to build with Lego. Try to improve the newest chassis. When stuck you look how somebody solved it in the next episode. Amazing!

Sorry to revive this 'old' topic, but i was curious how many people still follow this buildshow and if there are more copies out there! Here is mine: I was finally able to buy the tires for a bargain price and received them today. With them the model is HUGE!

I like the concept but it's just so big with so many gears. Why not improve this?

Outstanding job as usual! If the helical gears are working, why does the Torsen diff not work? I just love out of the box parts! I was wondering, could you combine http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=99009 with http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=92909 just like Nicjasno's Ultimate Wheelhub? Would the Nylon surface be smooth enough to work?

The pneumatic hoses i have do all fit directly into the connectors. No real problem. When stiffnes is a problem, you can use hoses of harder plastic. Problem solved? :)

What are these used parts called?

I've always dreamed about building a Ferris Wheel. I think personally this is the best you can get. Very nice job on the structures!

Once a while i had a simple goal to make a gas powered boat with a team. If i translate right: baking powder and lemon juice create a sufficient gas. An 0,33cl plastic soda-bottle filled with 1/8 baking powder and 1/8 lemon juice. It was enough to make a simple replica of the engine as the SYS I3 run for about 5 seconds. With the ideal concentrations should be experimented, anyhow it was more a fun than a high-grade experiment. :P

Hello everybody, Since i never posted something i have build, i thought this would be something nice to post. Since another project which i'm following has took a break i thought it would be nice to use one of LPEPowers engines in an official LEGO set. :) I've tried the SYS I3 in 8285 with no succes so far. Today i had some spare time and made a fast moc-up with 8146 which works. Lightweight body and very simple chassis. No suspension or else was needed, i did build a torsional bumper, because safety first! This was the result in 3 hours: Very disappointing the V8 did not fit. :P Geared 1:3. The result was blazing fast. Now we can call the model a real nitro muscle car. :) When the video is uploaded to my Dropbox i'll post some footage here with a small teaser about a more serious project. :P Edit: Here it is: https://www.dropbox....7lsjk/Forum.wmv It seems like Dropbox is putting down the videoquality a lot. :/ Edit 2: Resized images due their too big size.

I have seen tons of loads of papers and building instructions of many Dacta Sets including Interface A and B in my school. Scanning all those paper will cost some time. Maybe in the future i'll try it to digitalize. @ Phoxtane If you have the manuals of LOGO, does that mean you have the diskette with LOGO's on it!? I'm seeking for one to make for a long time in history making many Interface's A working in the original way. :)

Done. Always nice to see such experiments. Good luck with it!

Hello DrJB, From what i can hear is that you are programming wrong. The way RoboLab interacts depends on how you program. Read this. Keep me updated!

Hello DrJB, Sorry for the late respons. When you open RoboLab, go to 'Administrator' -> 'Select COM Port' make sure neither text mode or autodetect is selected. Choose COM2. This should fix it.

I can't make a specific picture toturial at the moment because my laptop got fried in public transport. (yes, fried) Maybe i can make one soon on a different computer :P Have you tried my example program i wrote? https://www.dropbox....program 9751.vi As said before, program your Interface B in the proper language in Robolab! You can see the difference in the example program. If it still not works, i'm here to help you. Edit: Downloadlinks were broken, now all fixed.

Could you share some tips which tools you used to modify your diff? Always nice to hear

Just my best wishes for everybody. Keep strong

I think we're misreading each other. But yes, you're right. :)

I tried this: It doesn't need any bushings to hold the bar in place, however it was a difficult job to insert. You're not so happy when you snap a gear inside The bar itself also gives a significant amount of friction so i think you can call it in a certain way a LSD. For whom to want stronger half bevels. You can always divide an 1L bevelgear like nicjasno did here: https://www.dropbox....s2/DSC_7414.JPG @AllenP I don't understand where the 5M distance comes from, but as you can see in the first picture a 4 bar should be already tricky. Edit: i finally see it. we're talking both about different subjects. Bar and axle. @ efferman Could you share the file of your diff? I'm going to take a look in the 3D printer world :P

Update: I had no time searching further to the diskettes at school with Lego Lines. Also i can't find them anywhere on BrickLink. Isn't that weird? But (!), i do have 7 DOS laptops sponsered by a company. The only problem is they don't have a slot for the card. Is there a 'docking' or 'adapter' so i can connect the lego card to a parrallel port somehow? If somebody can tell me the name of the type slot i may search a solution my own. =P

Well, realised that edge a little bit too late With that edge there my idea is not going to work properly. I found out i can print very cheap. Printing with Ultimaker 2: Starup costs: 6 euro + (PLA-PHA BLEND) 0,40 per cm3. I can print in many colors. Printing with Ultimaker 1: Startup costs: 5 euro + (PLA-PHA BLEND) 0,30 per cm3. Again i can print in many colors Is the material and resolution of these printers okay? I have seriously zero knowledge about this