falconluan
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Everything posted by falconluan
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Your calculations are correct. Although I didn't aim for specific scale numbers, I simply use the tire as the scaler and accept whatever scales it ends up to make sure the overall proportions are correct. -
Without the shell, they can support the weight barely enough. But with the shell putting on in the future, I may have to switch to the hard yellow ones. I'm trying to make the suspension as soft as possible to let the car bounce as the real ones. The 68.7mm off road tires and the new bat tires on this car share the same wheel and wheel hub.
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Glad you like it I'll make instructions and put it on RB once its shell is finished.
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Hi everyone, Here is my newest MOC: A trophy truck. This moc is based on a trophy truck designed by TSCO, here is its introduction page: https://www.race-dezert.com/home/tsco-racing-aussie-trophy-truck-157676.html The specs: 2xL motor for drive 1 servo motor for steering Realistic and robust frame Double wishbone front suspension 3 link rear suspension Video: Instructions: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-50190/falconluan/tsco-racing-aussie-trophy-truck/#comments I'm trying to make the look of the car as authentic as I can, especially for the frame part. Here are some comparison pics: Am working on the shell now, please stay tuned. Any feedback is welcomed! Thanks for watching!
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41: 10 33: 6 59: 4 30: 3 29: 2 20: 1
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41: 10 33: 6 59: 4 16: 3 18: 2 51: 1
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Thank you!
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[TC18] VW Rally Car
falconluan replied to Surffikoira's topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling
wow, the throttle and brake pedals are very well made at the small scale like this. -
Weird.... But thanks anyway, I'll try to post via other browser/devices. @Gray Gear Finally I got the video works by using my pad.
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Oh, got it! Thanks mate! Er, @Gray Gear, seems it doesn't work either, am I doing something wrong? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5_CBw0G7S1E https://youtu.be/5_CBw0G7S1E
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Updated the instruction link at the first post now. You are welcomed to try it out if you are interested I have a question though: Can some one tell me how to post a video link now? Thanks My last time posting a video here was a few years ago, it seems the method mentioned in the FAQ link doesn't work now. It is like: [media]https://youtu.be/5_CBw0G7S1E[/media] Now it won't work....
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Looks great! Although I'm not a fan of non-lego/lego mixing building, I have to admit that the white pins really help make the holes much less visible.
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I'm not a fan of that step too
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Had a feeling that the mid and rear part of the car are too bulky. For small scale model like this, a lot of dimension numbers have point parts. I decided to lower the roof by 1 stud and the result looks better to me. The price is the doors are hard to open since they are blocked a little bit by the rear fenders, I chose to live with it.
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@msk6003 Thanks for your advice There is no orange 56904 out there yet, so only the rear wheel can be made orange... There is not enough room in the front wheel well for 56145 wheels... As to the dark azure wheel cover, I actually have them for the car. There is a pic with them put on in the previous page. However, due to the using of a 3L with stop in the front axle, the width will exceed 15L with the wheel covers, so I didn't include them in the entry topic. @Gray Gear Oh, got it. The RX7 in your profile pic looks very cool! And I saw the black NSX moc of yours before. It looks cool too and with more than 4000 parts, it's a monster
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lol, I guess the 1:8 scale you are talking about is the car in your avatar.
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@Gray GearThe connection is rather sloppy... They are connected to body via a black 60483. They are not interconnect with each other either Below picture may show the connection better. The position of headlight in below pic is higher and after than those in the pics above. I like the lower and forward position better.
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Glad you like it and thanks for the kind words A few more pictures More pictures at here.
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28. Porsche 944 Gulf Functions: 1. Front push rod suspension 2. Back live axle 3. Pop up headlight 4. Openable doors, hood and trunk Dimensions: L x H x W: 37 x 11.5 x 15 Pictures: More pictures Discussion topic: Video: Instruction and part list is up at Rebrickable
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Finally, it is finished! The doors, rear axle, dashboard are all rebuilt. The height of the rear axle was adjusted so that the car is not sitting rear end low anymore. Here is it looks now: Of course, it has pop-up lights! It can have the dark azure wheel cover mounted, but with that, the width of front axle will exceed the 15 studs limitation by a few millimeters, so I will not include them in the entry topic. But I think I can show them here Once again, a final comparison: Hope you like it! I will make instructions, so please stay tuned if you are interested in it.
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[TC18] Ford GT 2005
falconluan replied to ArtemyZotov's topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling
Nice shape overall I feel some places are not as curvy as the real car. For example, the rear fender, not sure if it looks better with a flex axial behind the fender making a curve. Another place is the headlight, I like the shape of your bigger mod here much better. Maybe a 32192 better than 32015 here? -
I think you are suggesting that the distance between front fender piece and A pillar can be stretched by 1 stud. By doing so will make the front look a bit longer. Based on the blueprint(sorry, the font of the number is a little bit too small to read....), the wheel base and the distance between back of the front wheel and the front edge of roof is close to what I have now. I think one of the reason is the fender part have a much gentler arc than the real car which makes the distance looks shorter than it does. I'll have a try anyway Also, I don't quite understand your "lifting the rear", which part were you saying? The rear body work or rear axial or something other?
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You are perfect right! I made a mistake yesterday when designing the firewall area, the mount point of hood was raised by 1 stud up. Now it should look like this, I know there is an annoying step ahead of the windshield, but I decided to live with it... Also, I finished the dashboard area, sorry guys, no steering wheel turning with front wheel, in fact the steering wheel doesn't turn at all, lol
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Yes, indeed. Tried to replace the orange parts with DBG and it looks a little bit better, I'll stick with that. Maybe it sounds making no sense, I'm building the car referring to the blue prints of a non-race version 944 You can tell that by the signal lights and fog lights in the grill and the rear lights. I would like to build a pure dark azure version however the parts limit pushes me to a gulf color scene. So the result now is a "bastard" version. The fender parts look different on the "civilian" version also the distance between fender edge and the wheel is higher. Yes, this is another thing which troubles me. The rear suspension could be lifted a little bit to match the look of the non-race version and it is not a hard thing to do. The real trouble is the front suspension, I'm using the hard spring in the photo, and the ride height is acceptable but the steering force needed is large since the fiction is too much due to the spring pressure. If using to the softer spring, the suspension range is almost none which makes the suspension useless. So you probably right on this, it is not necessary to have a suspension at this scale. A fake L4 may be a good choice here...
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The major work of exterior and chassis is finished, now it looks like this: Checking with the target: I will add the dark azure wheel cover eventually. Maybe it looks better if I get rid of the orange parts in c pillar and above the fender. As to the race number, I'm trying to represent it with parts instead of using any customized stickers, but it doesn't look so good, what do you think? Should I get rid of it completely?