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Everything posted by falconluan
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Thanks again mate! As to keeping more tractors coming, a preview of the finished Steyr Terrus
- 133 replies
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Thanks @MP LEGO Technic creations and finger crossed that TLG would release some 72mm tractor tires someday... Currently no, but I'm thinking of making some trailed fertilizer spreader or baler. It works well with @Thirdwigg's great looking dump trailer like below: The trailer is free and you can get the trailer in RB here. Thanks @Thirdwigg and hope you don't mind my reference
- 133 replies
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Thank you To be honest at first I chose 8284 because I wanted to reuse the chassis of my other small tractor MOCs. As the building went on, I altered the path to trying to reproduce the original set as much as possible. Glad that you and maybe other guys weigh the structure similarity as a plus feature of this contest. Despite the final result model is almost "useless" for my following tractor MOCs(the proportion is way off to modern tractors, even tractors of 80's and 90's), I did have lots of fun during building it, it's a great contest without any doubt!
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Thank you! I think the white rims usually come together with "normal" versions of New Holland which are painted blue, I could be wrong here though. And pity that we don't have 7L soft axle in blue and that's why I'm using dark blue and LBG combination here. I'll use the white rims in my Steyr MOC of course.
- 133 replies
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Hi everyone, Finally I've finished the third one of the series: New holland T7 Heavy Duty Features: Pivotable solid front axle HOG steering Adjustable front hitch Adjustable rear hitch Rear PTO connected directly with rear differential Detailed interior and decorations Modular design: chassis, rear hitch, cabin are built separately The hood and chassis are based on my Claas Axion with some improvements and reinforcements. The cabin and fenders are all newly designed. Comparing with Axion, the rear fenders are mounted half stud higher thus completely eliminated the possibility of touching the rear tires. Scale-wise, this MOC is larger than a 1:32 model as it shows in the comparison pics. Instruction at RB is here More pics are at here Hope you like it. Now I'm working on its real world siblings: Steyr Terrus and Case IH Optum, stay tuned if you are interested.
- 133 replies
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@1gor It took some time from me building the Steyr's hood and I'm still not pleased with it now .... The whole thing is based on my Claas Axion instead of the mini 8284 here, since the proportion of 8284's chassis is quite different from modern tractors'. I've also updated the progress in my other thread, let's discuss more on it here if you are interested
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Am building some new tractors now. This time I chose New Holland T7 and Steyr Terrus, and maybe include Case IH Optum in the end as well, since they are more all less the same tractor The chassis is largely based on my Claas Axion with some improvements while the cabin, hood, fenders are newly designed. Took a dozen of iterations on the Steyr hood and still not pleased with it, so any suggestion is very welcomed.
- 133 replies
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After making the Claas Axion, New Holland T7 and Steyr Terrus(The latter two will be published soon ), enlighten by this shrink contest, I will try to "enlarge" those small MOCs into bigger ones. Will use 81mm front and 107mm back tires for sure, but not sure about the function setup yet. I think I will build a chassis mock up first and decide the next move based on that. Since even with the max available tractor tire set, the space in chassis will still be very limited, which means not many things can fit in if I want to still achieve the realistic look of everything.
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8284 Tractor Functions: - HoG steering - Live front axle - fake inline 4-cylinder engine - Rear PTO (directly connected to rear Diff, NOT on-off controlled via the red handle) - Adjustable rear hitch - Foldable windrower Free instructions at Rebrickable Pics: Original model: Video: Discussion topic:
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Thanks. To be honest, I thought it would be an easy work as well at the beginning. During building it, I tried to keep the exact proportion as far as I can do. As a result, it took a lot more iterations than I've expected, especially for the chassis, engine and hood. On the other hand, 8284 is a big but relative simple set after all, and that's why I managed to be able to build both the original(872 parts) and shrink model(516 parts on tractor itself) at the same time. No, not all the features. The red level on the 8284 can control the rear PTO while on my model it doesn't work, it's only a decoration. All the rest functions work the same way as the original. I'll highlight both on the entry post.
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Finally almost finished the tractor itself, most of the work has been done in last weekend Made a funny and stupid move below as removing one set of gear resulted opposite steering control... I must have been too obsessed with its look back then With some accessories added, they look like this now(Oh, the red handle on the smaller version is just for decoration): Widen the hood seems to be an must have upgrade now... Then you have them Lastly, a new idea came to me when I saw this:
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To keep the 70% proportion and the most similarity, I'll use 56mm balloon at the front while 68mm balloon at the back. For the proportion of more modern middle-big tractor(250-300 hp or so, for example, New Holland T7), 56mm front tires need 75mm back tires at the best. From this perspective, the back tire size is too small on the original 8063/8284 set, 107mm will give a more modern look.
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Good idea! I'll try that. I've also got rid of the 20T to 12T bewel gears on the HOG path to make the HOG axle further front to make the model look more like the original. So @MangaNOID I gave up my attempt of the better steering control feeling in the end. , I'll try that as well. 70% of 5 studs is 3.5, so 3 or 4 are both reasonable value. Using 4 studs wide will also allow more details at the front and currently, I'm not satisfied with the solution of the front end, it is a little bit wobbly.
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A good suggestion, thanks! I'll change to a black 20T to hide it a little bit. I'm stick to the 20T and 12T to have the better steering control here. 16T will make the steering feeling more direct to my taste. A another update. The chassis and hood have been basically rebuilt and now it looks a tiny bit more like the original set.
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Despite we chose the similar original model and will build the same scale(same wheel choice), I think we will end up quite different models in the end. We are using different approaches, @Thirdwigg is building outlines first while I'm basically using an inside out approach. The end result of us will be quite interesting.