3D LEGO

As a note regarding glues, make sure when shopping for MEK based glues that it specifically states for "ABS Plastic" as poly polystyrene commonly found in the modeling world is not the same. If you try with a polystyrene glue you will find rather quickly that it does not work. Besides, vintage parts which like to break need re-welding if they are going to be of any use. Band-aid approaches won't work. 3D LEGO

Wow, this is definitely a first... In a good way! More often than not, someone will characterize the creation of someone else's making. Rather seldomly does the actual creator characterize their own creations. I must say, it takes an artist knack with a subtle sense of humor to pull something like that off. The kind that says: "I don't care what others think, i'm doing what I want." In all seriousness, you have captured the style, feel and attributes of your original ship quite well. All the while you gave it that spunk and personality that you hear of from those who actually work on, maintain and man such vessels, vehicles, etc day in and day out. (While companies in the United States have long walked away from the practice of naming things other than for publicity purposes, those who actually interact with them still do as a well to connect with them and to joke about their operating characteristics.) All in all, very well executed. Not only this but your ship that you made into a legend. (Okay I might be stretching things now.) I saw you your ship previously and noted the unique style employed. (I never replied to that thread though.) 3D LEGO PS: I am sensing some very strong Kantai Collection vibes here. PPS: Yup, Shimakaze over in your flicker collection confirmed it.

davidzq, Ah, I see. It is just as bad to photograph as the real thing. (At least it is not any darker. I always thought the ultra dark green of the BN executive paint scheme was dark blue-green. Yeah, I found out later that I was wrong. Just like that Brunswick Green Pennsylvania Railroad used. Its really, really, dark green. Not black.) Hopefully I will get the chance to see this in person sometime. My one suggestion regarding the EMD F59 unit is that the rear hump could use some more elevation to bring it inline with the real thing. If it turns out it becomes unreliable as the real locomotive, then you could always send it to the scraper or the auctioneer and build yourself one of these: (I had a quick go using a GE P42 drawing to replicate the EMD paint scheme.) You know, these are actually shorter in height then the F59s. Or you could skip the P42 and wait for a Charger... (I originally had a full copper brown face like the Acela Wave paint scheme has but I axed it for the original. At least it is not one of the Heritage I paint scheme ones running around. Forgive me Amtrak fans but that particular combination is as ugly as sin.) Then again, if the F59s are in the shop and the P42s are all tied up, you might see everything from an old Geep yard goat (BN white faced green, BNSF GN Heritage, etc...) on one end and maybe if the Cabbage car is in the shop as well you might get lucky to see a GE EVO or and EMD SD70+ on the other end. Serious overkill. And you don't have to build them... Unless you want to be a little cheeky. Yeah, I am not sure what happened with the cab cars on the new Talgo 8 trainsets. As ugly as they are the other two trainsets that were painted in the Talgo Inc. corporate colors for the State of Wisconsin surprisingly do not look half bad. The black cap on the white body with red stripe seems to work. 3D LEGO PS: I agree, space is always an issue. Maybe as an added bonus you could rig up a display that will randomly activate and display the message: "No Amtrak Cascade Service for 48 min."

davidzq, While strolling through the eurobricks forums I had to do a double take. You have not only replicated but in your own way greatly enhanced a model of one of the few remaining superb paint schemes in use today. I am not sure what we Washingtonians did to deserve such an honor. The Acela blue-grey is yet another of the modern schemes but here we have classic meets contemporary modern. Cream, dark green and dark copper-brown. (Like another classic that would grace the area from time to time, the old Burlington Northern executive paint scheme. Can you say pretty!) I still remember this picture from all those years ago. (Before the mandated FRA crash protection brought on the NPCU cabbage car.) http://web.talgoamerica.com/images/Amrak/Amtrak-Cascades_Thorpe.jpg Brown looks good but with the newer reddish-brown I wonder how it would look? Of course the paint job did an excellent job of hiding the locomotive aesthetics. (Or better the lack thereof.) Speaking of things, WSDOT tacked on a portion to the multi-state order to Siemens for new Charger locomotives. The closest we have to a paint scheme is this render: (Very large image) http://www.siemens.com/press/pool/de/pressebilder/2014/infrastructure-cities/rail-systems/300dpi/ICRL201403009-01_300dpi.jpg -That would be the green roofed one that has WSDOT stenciled on the side and Seattle on the readerboard. (See order breakdown here: http://www.railwaygazette.com/news/traction-rolling-stock/single-view/view/more-siemens-charger-diesel-locomotives-ordered.html) If you are open for additional work, then you might want to consider flushing out a Charger design so once the paint scheme arrives you can tweak it. I wonder if the cabbage NPCU will still remain or if the fins will get the axe... 3D LEGO

Meister Schnorrer, I am curious about your electric locomotive collaborative design. I wonder what kind of tractive force it would have or if it would need more weight to prevent wheel slip. If it works out, while not necessarily fast, it may be able to move a lot of wagons. 8x powered axles is more then I have seen on any single LEGO train so far. 3D LEGO

Looks fantastic. I noticed that you decided to recreate the movie version complete with the ARMD space carriers. (The ones it was supposed to pick up in the original series but that were blasted to smithereens.) This version has more of a purpose look versus the cobbled together look of the original. I look forward to your brick-built rendition. And with the transformation, while it would be amazing, beyond a certain size point things begin to become rather difficult. Now all it needs are some gravity generators ripping through the hull. 3D LEGO

Meisterschnorrer, Glad I could be of help. My apologies if anything I posted was a bit confusing. I am not sure how I failed to notice it but someone after me offered the suggestion. By cutting back on the number supports for the OCS, not only does it save you money but it does allow for other options, including more preferable ones. But that is all up to you. And of course the higher priorities too! One station I was thinking about that I know to be only a portion of the original is the Kassel HBF, of which I have have wandered through on numerous occasions while residing in Kassel. But then again, not every station was a central terminus in size either. Oldenburg BF had a smaller main building, much like yours but with, oh 5 platforms. (Okay it is a bit bigger in size.) So in your little neighborhood of brick, anything is possible! Big is always grandiose but small can be quaint. All my station designs fall under the later. But then again I have never built any of them either. Regarding the tunnel suggestion, let me elaborate a little more on it. My idea was that you could build the portals but they would be dead-ends. IE it is a decorative feature without the full functionality. I hope that make sense. If you are still confused, feel free to send me a PM auf Deutsch and I would be happy add some more clarification. 3D LEGO

Meisterschnorrer, May I compliment you on your excellent, modern design! Easily recognizable as being of they type build today. Everything from the ample bicycle rack with awning to the red and blue ticketing machines. Oh and the ever subtle communications equipment - an eyesore as ever but an necessary evil! I also like the pattern in the platform that breaks up the monotony of a mono-pour. In a addition the block signals, clocks, reader boards and endless safety fences. (We would not want to have citizens winning Darwin Awards at your fine station now would we?!) Speaking of endless fence, that fence! The wave pattern. I commend your bravery. You will be rewarded through your efforts. The lighting arrangements as well speak of your thought process that you used. And those top red flags are the maraschino cherries to top it all off! End station or through station both work, though there is a tread to avoid the former where ever possible as it limits expansion. But if it is the end of the line, well nothing helping there. The station building is of superb design but I get the feeling that it got... reduced in size at one point. Nothing wrong with small, quaint and ornate. Either color combination looks great. You know, this reminds me of those white canvas canopies that are all the rage now. I am not saying you should make make one, rather I am noticing the similarities. Switching gears... Oh wait, wrong terminology. Uh... switching tracks? Oh never mind. I have a few suggestions and or critiques if you will that you may want to consider. My first area involves the station main building. While it most certainly adds a level of completeness, bear in mind that many such old buildings have either been demolished, abandoned or otherwise disused. I would suggest not confining yourself to the need of having such a building. If the station were built new and to the scale you have shown, there would be no such building. Rather there would be a small kiosk of sorts that contained the information/ticking. Everything else is handled by those ever-apparent ticketing machines. You could also consider making portals for a underpass pedestrian tunnel if it will be a through-station. Besides, not having the building will save on brick but that is not my reasoning for discussing it. If you do keep the station building, consider moving the communications equipment to it. My second suggestion is in relation to the color of the support poles for the overhead contact systems (OCS). Originally you had them as blue. Then you changed them to black. I would not abandon the blue so quick if I were you as it adds an aesthetic touch to the station area. For example: I have seen pictures of solid red poles with grey|gray upper portions in Belgium. In northern Germany I saw an endless supply of truss towers painted sand green but that was also system wide with the rare silver painted ones around stations. Some newer ones were painted silver-grey|gray. Old stuff in here in the USA usually had poor paint jobs or lack thereof ans so looks like a rust heap now. (When there was still mainline stuff in my neighborhood they used creosote poles. But they have been gone a long time.) New stuff tends to be structural beams or the cylindrical tubes (Or are they concrete casts?) in the light grey|gray color. Its the same no matter where you go. On occasion, however you will see where design aesthetics were applied to the otherwise mundane infrastructure to make it more appealing. In Salt Lake City, Utah, USA on the Green Line to the airport as part of the TRAX light rail system (Utah Transit Authority - UTA), the poles are a contemporary modern old design, painted black, along the main drag to the airport they are a dark green except at the platforms in the stations where they are any color imaginable: orange, blue, red, etc... (One color per station area.) and out by the airport they are a very light sand green-yellow. Even if it is just in the station vicinity that they are a different color, which in most instances of such coloring they are, I would give it some thought. Lastly, the black tiles alternating with the yellow is something I have never seen at a station and is only used in specific applications. May I suggest a few alternatives? A solid yellow stripe, one that is half the width but placed 1 stud in from the edge, or go all grey|gray. (But then the safety-conscious people would protest your unsafe station!) I look forward to seeing the final forum in brick. 3D LEGO

I second the Minion reference. Bit much Despicable Me?! "Minion!"... except I can't see Arial saying that nor is Founder the type of free spirit like Minion. Nonetheless it is a fabulous creation and a solid design brought about by a very witty idea. Your choice of making it a hollow suit only adds to the touch. 3D LEGO

edsmith0075, This may sound weird, but here is a suggestion to piggy back onto those already given. Pull up you world map of choice: Google Maps/Earth, Mapquest, Bing, etc and using the satellite view to compare different track geometries. Things to look at would be the area of interest you are pursuing. If industrial, then find industrial centers, rolling mills, etc. Or if you want mainlines crossing vast expanses or geographical features then look up those. Take screenshots and use the built in scale as your guide to see how things compare. Then choose the track geometry to match what it is you want to represent. Looking at examples of rolling stock, a DB Class KÖF III | BR 353 (UIC: B) small shunting locomotives can fit in and around places undreamed of. A Siemens Vectron (UIC: Bo'Bo') is a mainline European freight locomotive though its Bo'Bo' configuration still allows it a fair amount of flexibility. But on the extreme scale, a historic ALCO 4000 class 4-8-8-4 (UIC:(2'D)D2'4h) "Big Boy", while articulated, needed straight running to operate and thus were confined to the mainline between Omaha, NB and Ogden, UT in the United States. (Today with much of the trackage across the county having improved greatly, it is very likely that UP Big Boy #4014 will be headed to places yet visited once restored.) I hope that you are able to find what works for you. But ditto on the aforementioned comment about scale: that is something to consider as that can very well be a deal breaker when considering parts investment. 3D LEGO

GedweyGarm, The rigged models seen in LEGO games have a somewhat unique behavior to their animation style. With a person, animal or even a robot you can skin to a bone system and have at animating it. What LEGO game developers on the other hand have chosen to do is create a deformable mesh that almost does not rely on bones. Correct me if I am wrong but my understanding of rigging and bones leads me to that conclusion. But there may still be ways to incorporate a bone structure into such a model but that is beyond my ability to help. Here is another thought: Look into how things like snakes are rigged as that might lead you to what you are in need of. If you want to save on modeling time you could see about bringing in a LDcad model of a minifig and converting it to a deformable mesh. But like I said earlier I am unable to provide any more help. I hope something I provided is of help to you. 3D LEGO

Everyone, Instead of letting this get buried inside the BlueBrick topic, I decided to create a new topic so that people could find this easily. To run BlueBrick on Linux you will need mono, a cross-platform .NET development framework. Most distros I would assume ship with mono in their repositories and or the additional repositories. But to get right to the point as I know you are all eager to fire-up BlueBrick to mock up your next big project. So without further adue, here is how to get mono installed and how to run BlueBrick. BlueBrick running on my fedora 20 + KDE desktop installation. 1.a - For fedora: Note: I tested this with fedora 20 x86_64. I am not sure they are needed but start with making sure you have the fedora RPM Fusion repositories enabled: Enable RPM Fusion on your system PS: They are a great addition! Install mono: sudo yum install -y mono-core mono-extras [*]Proceed to section 2. 1.b - For ubuntu: Note: I do not possess the means at the moment to test this but if someone could verify this that would be great. Install mono: sudo apt-get install mono-complete [*]Proceed to section 2. 1.c - For openSUSE: Note: I do not possess the means at the moment to test this but if someone could verify this that would be great. Install mono: sudo zypper install mono-complete [*]Proceed to section 2. 1.d - For debian: Note: I do not possess the means at the moment to test this but if someone could verify this that would be great. Install mono: sudo apt-get install mono-complete [*]Proceed to section 2. 2. For BlueBrick: Note: Once you are up in running, to my understanding these steps below should in theory be universal across distros. Download the latest version of the BlueBrick software: BlueBrick Unzip archive to some desired destination. [*]Run BlueBrick: Open terminal emulator of choice and enter the following command, feeding it the location to where you extracted the zip archive to: mono /Path to BlueBrick folder/BlueBrick.exe & For example: mono /home/username/Downloads/BlueBrick.1.7.1/BlueBrick.exe & For shortcut: mono ~/Downloads/BlueBrick.1.7.1/BlueBrick.exe & Note: '&' denotes running as a background process to free up the terminal. '~' is a shortcut to the current user's home directory. And I apologize if these do not work in your distro as I have no idea how universal they are. And an added bonus for KDE users: 3.a - For KDE Desktop: Invoke the KDE Menu editor by right-clicking Kickoff icon > Select 'Edit Applications.' Go to location you wish to place the BlueBrick shortcut icon in. Example: Graphics [*]With the desired folder selected, click on 'New Item' Under the general tab fill in the necessary information: Name:, Description:, Comment:, Command: Example: Name: BlueBrick Description: Display mockup tool Comment: Tool for creating mockups of LEGO displays. Command: mono ~/opt/BlueBrick.1.7.1/BlueBrick.exe Note: There is not a readily-accessible icon for BlueBrick so unless you make one you will have to substitute another one. [*]Click save. [*]Enjoy your newly created menu shortcut item. Well that is all I have. Again, if you are able to verify one of the above, feel free to post it. Otherwise I will try to get around to testing them against live installs. Happy BlueBrick'ing on Linux! Your Fellow Studded-Penguin, 3D LEGO

stevkir, You are correct. We, ULUG (Utah LEGO Users Group, of which I am an active member) did as a matter of fact have a display there in the "Kid Con" area. We also displayed at the initial one last September and are working out the last details for the upcoming 2nd Salt Lake Comic Con in September of this year. (As a side note, this particular event was labled "FanX" or "FanXperiance" and to what its actual intended purpose was is still open to discussion.) However since this is an event not affiliated with the Comic Con International, I will refrain from commenting further here. I will post a link to a summary article of the event as soon as I have done so. 3D LEGO

Though LDD through Wine is a viable option, it is common for people to give up on wine due to the complications that can arise. Unfortunitly there really are no other alternatives. Or you could grab VMWare player and create a Windows virtual machine and run it more natively providely you have newer hardware that supports device sharing. (Linux Kernel Virtual Machine (KVM) can also do this but it is a lot more difficult.) There was a way-more native program in the works that utilized the LDraw library, however I have not heard anything regarding it in a long time. However in the developement branch nothing has been touched for atleast 10 months, but most longer. It had pov-ray rendering support as well. I never managed to get it up and running. Maybe if I am feeling brave I could try again... We shall see. It can be found here: Konstruktor 3D LEGO

I had success using a staedtler mars plastic eraser (the white ones.) and after some minor "gentle rubbing" the printing came right off no problem. I recommend this anyday over any scraping method. Bear in mind the "slight pressure" applied does make a pile of eraser shavings. Be mindful of them and others will be happy. 3D LEGO

Nice looking model. The only suggestion I would give is that personally, I feel it would look better with larger wheels. But I only say that, since having seen an actual Milwaukee Road EF-4/EP-4 (Milwaukee Road EF-4/EP-4), #E70 which is in Deer Lodge, Montana, USA. They are tall, but not as tall as you would expect, but they are long. I their "cousins'" operated by Great Northern were considerably taller. (Great Northern GN W-1) I also agree with the black framed and trans-black window suggestion that was made. Otherwise the custom sticker approach would give you more flexibility, especially to match the roof curve. 3D LEGO PS: When I saw #E70, it had already been repainted in the early light orange with maroon stripe, but no railroad name stencilling on the stripe. Just like it looks in this picture of it: Milwaukee Road #E70 Not my picture, but I do have one. EDIT: Snow plow. It needs one.

There is just so much detail, even for the scale at which it was made. Everything is there from the small things down to the "old LEGO toys". I not sure what else there is to say other than to echo what has already been said... But if I am not mistaken, that is a glowing green cross above the bed?! 3D LEGO

To see this brings back such found memories... Oh wait... How do make Total Annihilation work on linux?... It seems I have my work cut out for me. The commanders are pretty good, howbeit the Core Commander is missing most of his "skirt", but that may be impossible to include accurately at that scale. Now all you need is some of the ever famous "foot stopping" scenes. That being said, may I make a future build suggestion if I please?: The one man army: Krogoth "Before there was the UEF Fatboy and Fatboy II, before the Cybran amphibious Destroyers, the Monkeylord or even the Rex Experimental for that matter or even the Aeon Czar; Back when your standard issue long range plasma cannons all had ranges like the UEF Mavor; Back when a "good day" meant high temperature, extremely destructive plasma was not raining down on your head; Back when Brawlers reigned king and Millenniums and Warlords ruled the high seas and kept the weak far, far inland; When energy output demand directly, but exponentially, correlated to the number of Vulcans or Buzzsaws you were trying to operate simultaneously; When the phrase "what goes up must come down" mattered; When a operating targeting facility literally meant "You Shall Not Pass"; Back when one lone monstrosity would take a stroll into your base unsuspectingly; that was when Commanders knew true fear: and it had a name: Krogoth" Enough reminiscing for now. Overall I am very impressed and I look forward to any other units you decide to recreate. By the way I like your take on the nanolathing process, though if I remember correctly it is actually more of a yellow-orange-red in the cinematics verses the green in-game. Oh well... 3D LEGO

Stefanwest, Thanks for posting this. Do you mind taking some pictures and uploading them for those of us who are curious how you made the change? Thanks. Where there's a will, there's a way... 3D LEGO

Bojan Pavsic, As someone who uses a workstation graphics card, I figured I should chime in and offer my two bricks on the matter. But first let me clarify that my computer is nothing age wise in comparison to what has been discussed here so far. But hopefully soon I can upgrade to the newest generation. LDD was and is (do not quote me on this as I am unsure if this is indeed still the case) created with Qube Software's OpenGL based graphics engine which allowed for the ease of cross platform use. The problem is that LDD has gone through several changes and its internal functionality no longer represents the original form. The main data archive: Asssets.lif which I do not recognize. It has been quite a while since I used the Qubesoft development kit to poke through the original database file. However I cannot remember the extension name of the original so I cannot say if it is the same or not, LDD currently follows a trend I have become aware of where the application relies heavily on CPU output and available memory. For example, those in manufacturing will be familiar with the 3D Computer Aided Drawing application Solid Works. The general thought would be the better the workstation graphics card you run it with the better. Unfortunately this is not the case as the application belongs to the category of heavy CPU and memory dependent. There are some benefits for having a better card, but in this case the emphasis should be on CPU and memory available. The one exception is the advanced OpenGL shaders used by most of it not all of the 3D CAD systems that allow for real time life-like texturing. Solid Works does use this if it is present. Again this is not by any means a Direct 3D feature. On the other end of the spectrum are applications like Autodesk Maya for 3D content creation which will put to full use whatever graphics card you can run it with. Obviously that means that the better it is the bigger the project you can tackle. Another example is LDview which also benefits greatly from having a better graphics card. That side note aside, for reference I run LDD using a 2.2GHz single core processor, 1Gb DDR2 and a Nvidia Quadro FX 1400 which runs a single 19" 1280x1024 monitor. For my building needs I run LDD without advanced shaders enabled, but if I so desire, I will enable them for taking a snapshot. I found that by enabling them dramatically increases the CPU and memory load in comparison to running it without them enabled. The added load reduces my frame rate down to a mere several frames a second. It would appear that any intial benift that the application would have or could have had was lost as more window's based components were integrated into the application. As a side note, I aluted to this above that any OpenGL specific program I run is a different story as it can put the graphics card to work and get the full output. The card may not be blazing fast, but it will handle whatever is thrown its way and keep on moving. That is the difference between consumer and workstation grade graphics cards. Where the consumer cards would choke on the polygons and shader levels present, the workstation cards keep moving along as if nothing happened. Then again game specific OpenGL graphics are a different story as they tend not to be coded for taking advantage of the workstation card's power and actually run slower on them. So I echo the remarks of those who have already posted in that unless you have the need of workstation level graphics, then stick with the consumer level (or enthusiast level if you are a gamer) graphics cards as that should more then suffice your needs. Example screenshot I hope this helps to clear things up. 3D LEGO

Very well done. Nice and compact and overall clean. It is a prime quality MOC replica you have there. About the issue with the location of the peg hole: If I am correct those are medium BBB drivers? If so, I can share a little tip that I discovered after hours of hair pulling to try and make a similar idea work. The basic idea is that the hole lines up with the studs on this round plate: Or this gear: So if place the two on top of each other you will see that the holes line up. My solution was to use the 2x2 round plate, but facing inwards and one of these Technic pegs: To connect the side rod to it by lining it up behind one of the studs. It works great and I can even drive the locomotive this way. I hope that helps. 3D LEGO

Actually line work is great as a base idea or sketch, however it poses a problem for the final product. Unless you want the final product to have that handmade feel to it, may I suggest you use your scan to create a digital version using vector graphics (Vector graphics programs: Adobe Illustrator or Inkscape). Vector graphics allow you to export or print the finished product at any resolution you wish. If vector graphics is not your forte, then you could use a path tool in combination with a fill tool in say Adobe Photoshop, Corel Paintshop Pro, or the Gimp. That way there are only single colors and no transparency edge effects present. If you recreate it then you could use .gif format. But by recreating it you will not have all the artifacts (little dots and what not that are caused by loss of quality due to formats like .gif and low quality .jpg) the image would be much cleaner. There are better formats such as .png, .pdf and .tiff, but then again the choice is yours. Here I have attached two examples I made for reference: Sorry they are not torsos, but they are to show the difference between a vector graphics image and a raster image (like a scan, photo, your image, etc...) Vector Graphics: (Made with Inkscape - Image has been "rasterized" or turned into an image in .png format) Raster Image: (A completely digital drawing done by means of a graphics tablet and the Gimp) Another tip that you can do is scan the image in as line art (black and white), use a color to transparency to get rid of the white leaving only the black lines. Then add a layer underneath and color in the areas. Just make sure to clean up any over spray and such. Then flatten the image so all that is there is just the torso (This means there is transparency around the image.). Or if you prefer .gif, then make a white layer underneath all the others and flatten them together before exporting as this will remove the transparency. I hope that helps. I'm sorry if I explained something you already knew. 3D LEGO

-N130S-, Nice job especially on the Marine. My critique would be that the Hydralisk needs to be twice that size and double the tail length. Right now it looks light a little kid im comparison to the full grown thing. That and the head needs to be more massive. 3D LEGO

At Teddy, Thanks for posting the solution to the pivot points. So in truth I was close, but not 100%. Now I understand what you did so your description makes sense. 3D LEGO

After a little back and forth communication I have a clear understanding of what Udo's question is. As previously stated, he is trying to build his own version of a BR01 steam engine based on the BR01-1075 design built by Teddy and the slightly modified version by LEGO Train 12 Volts. He is however stumped as to how the double-pivot articulation between the locomotive and tender was built. My understanding is that there is a draw-bar attached by means of a pivot point to the main frame right behind the last driving axle. This is attached with another pivot point on the other end to the front truck of the tender. The medium guide wheel is mounted to the draw-bar, but is allowed to slide side to side. And there is another pivot connection between the front tender truck and the tender to complete it all. Am I correct?( See attached schematic drawing.) Perhaps Teddy or LEGO Train 12 Volts could provide us some insight as to how the articulation actually functions. Thanks for your input. Reference pictures of Teddy's model with notes concerning locomotive - tender articulation: Teddy's BR01-1075: slide 14 Teddy's BR01-1075: slide 15 My reverse engineering attempt: (Orange represents axis of rotation (IE Pivot points) and yellow is my understanding of the draw-bar's geometry.) Sorry for the spartan drawing. I was too lazy to plug in my Wacom tablet and do things the right way in Inkscape. Udo, Your diesel locomotive MOCs are very well done. I can easily recognise them as being from the DB and DRB respectively. Though the last one reminds me of a BR 294. 3D LEGO