cavegod

OR

Well it's not going to get me a job as a graphics editor but for the 6 hrs it took me to make what do you think??

just wondering if 1x4 curved slopes will work for the toes?? idealy they should be 3 studs wide tapering to 4 studs but that is impossible with the peices available unless anyone knows any different????

yeah why not gives me summat to do, and any probs you encounter just ask and i will tell you how i built it. the legs, tops and sides should be straight forward the skeleton will be hard work, it really needs tidying up a bit, the neck is easy enough and the head should be quite easy, be nice to know how many pieces it is. consider the pf idea shelved then, less work after all, still i could use technic elements so that the head is fixed instead of flapping around.....

i was just looking at the AT-AT this morning and i got thinking which is always bad, the head moves side to side, also there is a space either side in the neck so why don't i place a motor in th ebody and then by means of wizardry and black magic make so the head will move side to side via the motor? So, what do i need in power functions stuff to make it happen?

i like the look of roguebanthers speeders on fbtb flikr site, they would fit right in! Spent most of today redesigning the viewport on the head, it is now 7 wide instead of 6 and trust me it caused a lot of problems!

i don't often comment on other peoples mocs but this is excellent fits right in to the star wars universe!

anybody know of instructions for a snowpeeder to fit the scale of this Behemoth

ok heres a few pictures showing the neck as it is now, i have shortened it by 1 stud/brick and also spaced it a little and also you can see in the pictures i have been trying different ways to brace the neck. i have also included a few skeletal shots and pics of the range of left right movement for the head. ok the now almost level neck with no droop showing the range of movement and a few bare bones comments welcome as always.

its a mixture of weight causing the droop and also the fact that it is only held onto the body by 1 technic axle, i seem to have solved it i think so will post pictures later so you can compare.

thanks for the praise but it is far from perfect, everyday i see something that bugs me and then spend hours wondering how to get it right, it's never ending!

i'm not sure on the neck length in this pic it looks about right http://www.modelermagic.com/wordpress/wp-c..._at-at_-074.jpg i may shorten it by 1 stud though.

Sigpro i meant that the At-At neck is sagging, it's a term used in england for other problems associated with alcohol if you know what i mean As for stability it's very stable i will take quite a knock for it to fall and no i am not going to find out lol, but if it was stood on a table and the table got knocked it would stay standing. i think i have solved the neck issue with a 2 x 2x4 plates as the gap between the bulkhead and the neck is slightly less than a plate so forcing a plate in the gap pushes the neck up.

Ok.. well its still standing even with the head on! but it's got a case of brewers droop! right well this is how i have attached the neck now, far simpler than before with the head on it's heavy now! as you can see the neck droops the rear roof finished and the at-at big behind so far any ideas how to solve the droop? i think this beast is pushing 7Kg now!!!! now i've been building this for a month or so and it's been stood on the floor and looks big but when you mount the head it is just bloody huge!!

here you go

back in the fold!! when i built mine i used the game cube as reference!, they had the engines at the back of the sfoil hub.

just wondering should i remove the print off the 10x10 dishes?

parts arrived for the neck although i miss counted and i am 24 1x1 round plates short tsk back to bricklink! anyway i built the neck as far as i could and it is one strong mother took my weight stood on it so should hold up to the atat head, i seem to have stopped the twisting as well so it will be able to look left and right a little bit. i might look into up and down as well but that would be a big re design.

taking into account the size of a minifig then my at-at would be 30m tall, i think the real size should be 25m tall that fits the size when luke is winching up. its even more impressive in the flesh or plastic

i think it worked out to 100 real feet tall if i scaled it up for minifig,which is too by 8m as i think the best size is that the atat is 25m tall and 30m long, you could fit 3-4 minifigs side by side in the head.

the only instructions would be don't do it your life will end and you will spend hours on bricklink and in a dark room full of lego! still good fun though sorry no instructions you can build it easy enough from the pictures.

the toes do move up and down already

Ok mini fig comparison pics, can you spot little Annie?? I think i am going to change the toes as the studio models seem flatter so got to dig out 32 wedge 3 x 1 plates and 32 4 x 1 wedge plates and see how that looks.

nope sorry no interior will be just too heavy! i will dig a lego spaceman out of the boxes and stand him ontop of it. also minifigs are the wrong size and also the right size for this AT-AT scale.

well a few more pics of progress. the rear roof the front roof a couple of overhead shots and a size comp with the UCS Tie X1 thats al for now.