Jetro

Almost missed this topic.... the all-in-one installer at LDraw.org is definitely not the best way to get started. Not only is the parts library out of date, but the programs included have evolved a lot since then. LDview has added many new functions, LSynth has changed to the point where it is almost a different program and MLCad needs an up to dat MLCad.ini to be able to take advantage of those new features. Because of this, I recently posted a short tutorial on getting a working set of LDraw tools on your PC at TechnicBRICKS. A slightly longer version of the same tutorial will be in Hispabrick Magazine 010 which will be out early next month.

very nice. I love the exposed mechanism and I'd love to see the rest of the setup as well.

Everything that's available so far...

You can find pictures of all of them at TechnicBRICKs

Some very interesting ideas there! Thanks for sharing.

The images do not, however, represent "current" parts (with the exception of the tan axle pin)

I've got a couple of thos black ones from a Spybot if I remember correctly. I've also got a couple of orange long pins with bush.

I'm Jetro de Château, and in addition to being an editor for Hispabrick Magazine and having the privilege of being part of MCP4 I am an Embassador for TechnicBRICKs. On EB you can find me mostly in the Technic & MINDSTORMS and LDD forums.

How did I miss this?? Magnificent. I would really, really love to see a video of this in motion!! (please )

Close, but not completely: blue and tan are the colours indicating friction and non-friction for axle pins (one side looks like a pin, the other like an axle. black and grey are colours in use for the normal technic pin (again in the same order: friction, non-friction) The long pins are now also blue and tan (previously black and grey) to make it easier to distinguish them from the normal short pins) Half pins were grey and have later become blue for some time for the same reason, but right now they appear to be mostly grey again. There is no colour coding on other pins, although pins with towball tend to be black and axles with towball grey Colour coding on axles is as follows: even lengths are black, with the exception of the 2L axle which is red odd lengths are light grey axles with a stop (8L, 5L and 4L) are dark grey axles with stop and stud are tan (3L) Any variations on this pattern are because of aesthetic reasons: sometimes axles are used for decoration and need to be a different colour (white, green, ...) A similar effort was made with gears: Bevel gears tend to be black Half bevel gears are usually tan straight gears have become dark grey (z8, z24) or light grey (z16) Worm gears are usually light grey clutch gear z24 - white clutch gear z16 - dark grey clutch ring red ... ... Of course there are exceptions to (almost) everything.

Very nice! Thanks for pointing this out.

Interesting! Will have to check my model, but the information is great!

There are more and bigger pictures on TechnicBRICKs now. As allanp says, there are 3 pneumatic switches at the back of the vehicle so 3 functions: 2 large and 1 small cylinder. The model ought to have a pump as well to take advantage of the PF motor. I'm not so crazy about the other sets though. The smallest looks like another Cherry Picker rehash. The flatbed.... well, who knows.

Dutchman living in Spain and YES Doctor Who LEGO sets would be absolutely fabulous. Who cares if people don 't know the Doctor (yet). A LEGO Doctor Who theme will raise awareness and the licence will be cheap Signed, liked, sent to everyone I believe might be interested... let's see what else we can do.

And now you can't put a rigid hose in one of the holes any more (or so it would seem), so no more coupling 16t gears that way. I also remember seeing the technique used in one of Kevin Clague's small walkers... Is it me or do we more often lose possibilities than gain them with renewed part designs?

Rechargeable batteries don´t last forever. In addition to cleaning the spring, change the batteries!

Pity I can't make it :D Congratulations and have a great time with the sets!

Lots of things are getting mixed up here. Let me see if I can untangle some. NQC will work for the RCX, Scout and Spybots Robolab is an alternative software you can use to program the RCX, not the SPybots as far as I know (it certainly didn't come with them, but had to be purchased separately, specifically for the RCX) and also the Control Interface, although response times are so slow it is virtually impossible to use. The CD you bought hold building instructions plus the basic RIS programming environment for the RCX ... hope I didn't miss anything ...

Yes, the software and most of the instructions were on the CD, as well as instructions for the programs needed for those creations. No bother whatsoever -fire away! I you don't have the CD or want to go beyond the basic RIS programming language, take a look at NQC (Not Quite C) and the excellent tutorials available on its website DLuders has already pointed you in the right direction, but you can find scans of the original booklet with some explanations and instructions both at Peeron and at Brickfactory.

Still only barely enough documentation available to attempt to reverse engineer this beauty. I'd love to give it a try though.

I love the pickup truck, but the back hoe is still number one!

Your best option is LDD Manager. Works like a charm!

Yes, that's how it works. There are building instructions for the Killer Dozers so you can easily make a copy and see how it works.

Have a look at Philo's Killer Dozers. They use the same technique to drive and turn with a single motor. (and they are a lot of fun to play with! There era also a couple of ideas in Tora no Maki.

A better place to ask this question (and get a detailed reply that may help you further) would be http://mindboards.net/ (I could ask for you, but it wouldn't make much sense as you will probably need to supply some more info like Andorid OS version etc.) Do please let us know if you manage to solve this issue though!