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NathanR

Eurobricks Knights
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Everything posted by NathanR

  1. Really? I thought that early photos of the serious play kit showed the lattice would be included, prompting a flurry of orders, but it turned out the part actually wasn't. I vaguely remember a few people on here saying they'd ordered the serious play kit specifically to get the lattice, but Lego allowed them to cancel their orders and get a full refund.
  2. @Tracytron54321, welcome to eurobricks! Great idea for a MOC, the Mole was always a favourite of mine . How big a model are you aiming for? Minifigure-scale? For cylinder techniques, I'd recommend you look at the Lego set 21309 Saturn V. The first stage is a 10-wide cylinder built from 4 plates with 2x3 curved slope bricks, and strips of 2xN plates to fill the gaps, you could replace those strips with the tracks on the side of the Mole. Also, the third stage is a 6-wide cylinder built out of 2x2 curved slopes, with a stack of plates mounted on the side to plug the gap. Or you can google for a "Lowell sphere", that's a brick built sphere with a hollow or solid core, but you can extend stretch it out into a cylinder. Be aware that cylinders are usually either hollow, or strong, but not both. I think the first question would be, how are you building the main caterpillar tracks, what size wheels are you using? Once you have the scale of the MOC defined, then you can work out how big the drill section has to be and plan accordingly. Also, how are you planning on building the Mole's drill piece, something brick-built or using one of the Lego drill-shaped 4x4 cones? Really? You know, I've been a fan of the show since I was two years old, and I've never seen them, I don't think even the Aoshima model kits include them. Not sure what you mean... can you post some photos or an LDD file? Eurobricks doesn't let you upload files, but you can post links to a third party hosting site like https://www.bricksafe.com
  3. Some fascinating ideas, I will have to think about these. The actual launch-pad is to be 6 bricks high, so there's definitely room for some sort of technic frame inside. Would (say) a giant block of technic beams and frames be enough, or would it have to be fully integrated into the outer walls? At the moment I'm thinking of placing a single 6x8 technic brick with open centre over each seam, linked by 1x16 technic bricks and pins. My best guess so far is something like this: A layer of plates, a layer of technic bricks, more bricks to make up the height, another row of technic bricks, then a final top deck of plates. Would something like this be ok, or would it still be too fragile? A modular construction may not be possible, I'm using 1x4x6 door frames for detailing on the outermost edge and there isn't a convenient break point the aligns with the large base plates I'm using. Just inside the door frames will be a 1-stud thick wall (hopefully 1x6x5 wall elements), which leaves plenty of hollow space for an internal structure. Just curious but when you talk about bricks spanning the seams, do you place them along the seam or at right angles? which is stronger?
  4. Bricks and pieces can be a bit hit-and-miss. They do not sell "licensed" parts, and even if a licensed part was later used in a non-licensed context it might not be available. For example, 21310 Ideas Fishing Store contains a seagull from the collectible minifigure line, it's listed as "out of stock" but I have never seen it in stock. The same set has a Lobster that first appeared in a Lego Batman Movie set, and as such is licensed so it is not even listed for sale. On the other hand, the printed elements from the Ideas Saturn V have been out of stock since the sets released are only now listed for sale. I think those particular wheels were in stock at bricks and pieces, but several months ago. Unfortunately, the dragster (42050) is now an "old" set, having appeared in 2016, so I guess Lego have made the last batch of sets and sold off the excess tyres on Bricks and Pieces. The tyres were used for the Tumbler and the very highly sought after bat-pod... so I would go on the assumption that these parts are gone for good, unless Lego releases another set that uses them. Bricklink currently lists the tyres for 8-10USD each, so depending where you are in the world it might be better/easier to order this way. Also, you can often get Lego parts cheaper via bricklink
  5. Thanks for the suggestions, but I don't really want to go with a wooden board. I'm trying to build a launch pad for the Lego Ideas 21309 Saturn V - space issues mean this can't be a permanent display, I'm having to design digitally before I can order any parts, and I am thinking about a larger launch site including the Crawler Transporter. My original plan (top right) was just a flat base of plates, but they don't stick well to the outer wall. I have considered some sort of Architecture-style base, e.g. 6x14 plates with 2xN plates on the seams above and below (bottom left, right for different drafts), maybe some extra 2xN for further support (see below for the underside views). @peedeejay The 2xN plates grid is a good idea, but it is very flexible. It did cross my mind to try and put down some technic bricks and beams as a first layer of bricks, give the base some rigidity, but I'm not sure how to do this effectively (and keep the cost down!)
  6. Yes. LDPE is supposed to be inert, it doesn't react or break down so in theory it should be safe for minifigure storage. Honestly, I've no idea. Anything designed for food storage isn't going to be good long term. Supermarket food-freezer bags are typically made of an acidic plastic (possibly with a PVC component, which breaks down to release hydrochloric gas, that will attack whatever is in the bag. Not such a problem for food being kept for a week or two, but for Lego...). There's an interesting article with recommendations here, but these are USA stores. Personally, I've been ordering from here but I haven't had the bags long enough to know if they are any good.
  7. Aluminium technically does corrode, but the result is a tough layer of aluminium oxide that resists further corrosion. In principle it should be fine, you sometimes get lego sets in foil packs. However, I find that if I run my fingernail over a piece off aluminium, then it picks up a slightly sticky black deposit. I'd be wary in cse the aluminium does affect your minifigures long-term. I'm currently in the process of swapping all my parts over to low-density polyethylene bags (after using food freezer bags... this has been a disaster and left most of my lego bricks feeling sticky ). They are supposed to be completely inert, and are used by museums, etc. for long-term archival storage. I think either polyethylene or polypropylene would be safe - after all, new Lego sets have bricks in polypropylene, but they send out pick-a-brick/bricks and pieces orders in polyethylene re-sealable bags.
  8. The BB-8 head is in the latest LDD, under extended mode (part 20952). Unprinted only. So far as I know, in real life it's only appeared printed for the BB-8 and Porg heads.
  9. If this "new set" is one you own, check the back of the instruction book. There is usually a list of all the parts and quantities. You could at least go through BrickStock and update your list by hand.
  10. You mean, just build a grid of 2xN plates, like a chessboard without the squares?
  11. I'd have said 15395 Round 2x2 Dome bottom, but it's too big. If this is a digital MOC, then I think the only part it could be is the BB-8 head.
  12. Wow, those are beautiful!
  13. I'm trying to connect multiple 16x16 and 8x16 plates together for a large-ish MOC, the base size is 56x44 studs so I can't use standard 32x32 baseplate parts. If I build directly on top of the network of plates, the plates pop off with the slightest flex. If I sandwich the base layer between a pair of 2xN plates running along the seams, it's a bit stronger but the 16x16 plates can twist so much that they still pop the plates off and it all falls apart. I've studied a lot of the official sets, but not even the Disney castle had a footprint this big. Does anyone have any tips and tricks for building a strong and rigid base, that can survive being picked up and moved around a little?
  14. Is there any more info on the house, windmill and car Walmart exclusive 60th anniversary sets? I only looked up the house, it's out of stock online at Walmart. Apparently the "item comes in individually numbered box to illustrate limited availability", looking at copies of the house on eBay, this seems to be a 4-digit number so I guess only 9,999 sets have been produced? Has anyone actually opened their copy to see what it's like inside? Is it really just a polybag set in a fancy box, or is there more to it? And given the limited edition nature, is this seriously a USA-only release? Edit: Actually I may have answered my own questions. I found this saved live-stream build review on youtube: I must say I'm shocked. I knew this was just a handful of bricks in a fancy box, but I'd hoped there would be something more to justify the 20USD price. But there's nothing. Nothing about the 60th anniversary, nothing describing the history of Lego, or explaining that this is the style of Lego sets from the 1960s. This was insanely overpriced to begin with, and the inflated eBay prices (highest I saw so far was 80 USD!) have basically killed all interest I had in getting these sets. Such a disappointment...
  15. That is sweet! You should enter it in the Lego Ideas space contest
  16. I be off the edge of yer map... in France. Looks like Europe gets sets a bit early, I remember ordering the Ideas Saturn V a day before scheduled release.
  17. It's on sale early at shop.lego.com! Just placed my order, and I got the free 60th anniversary set as well
  18. Actually, the main blueprints for the Tantive IV that have been going around for at least the last 20 years depict the CR70. UCS 10019 is very faithful to these flawed blueprints, but mildly different to the studio model used in Episode IV as you noted.
  19. I like the windmill and house, but $20 for 64 or 46 bricks is just a joke - equivalent sets at that price range have around 200 pieces (admittedly, many are likely to be small parts for detailing and these two have just bricks). However, I'm willing to reserve judgement until I at least see an unboxing video. Didn't 1960s era sets have the bricks hand-packed and neatly arranged in a cardboard tray, e.g. as shown here? If Lego have done the same with these, then I would say the inflated price is more than justified...
  20. Thanks, that actually worked! I'd originally called it "Flying Saucer Crash" and the only reference to Roswell was in the description - I deleted that one line of text and the design has now been accepted! I am kind of curious though... if "Roswell" is an IP, who holds the copyright on it? I also tried resubmitting Sputnik as "First Satellite" but it got rejected again, bit annoying really given that they've accepted space telescope entries that are obviously Hubble, at least one other Sputnik, and a fair few space shuttles. But hey ho, at least I got one entry in.
  21. I've been trying to enter the Lego Ideas gift-with-purchase contest, but my designs keep getting rejected with the notice "Please note that the rules don't allow entries to contain intellectual properties (IP) or parts from an IP set which are not allowed in this contest." I've since posted them all on mecabricks so people can at least see them. Vostok 1 I thought would get rejected because I included a minifigure of Yuri Gagarin, and it's Russian real space (they explicitly said no entries referring too NASA, so I guess the Russian space agency is included in that?). But the others... what on earth is the matter with them? Sputnik 1 is a cultural icon, has someone really trademarked the design? Also, at risk of sounding bitter, I've just seen an accepted competition entry called "Satalite and Rocket" which is obviously a combo of Sputnik and Explorer 1 (America's first satellite), so what's the matter with my with my one? Roswell Crash This one I thought was really cute, it wasn't based on any intellectual properties, the parts were all common, the alien head appeared in other accepted entries... I did give the minifigures a couple of tools to hold, but these have come in other creator sets (e.g. the creator expert set Big Ben, where tools were used for the clock face). What am I missing here? I would really appreciate any suggestions on how to get the designs accepted...
  22. So sad about the shuttle and the launch tower. I just hope the creators will release some instructions... I would pay good money for them!
  23. Interesting... I've heard of this stuff but never actually seen any. If I remember right brickset once did a review of something similar - got it! here's the link: https://brickset.com/article/28697/review-lego-compatible-sticky-tape
  24. Might I recommend https://mecabricks.com? Fantastic website, you can build your own creations, and there is a brand new feature that lets you create photorealistic CGI images (more features and details if you opt to pay for the render) By the way, what are you trying too do?
  25. No, if you look closely you can see that the bottle neck is completely sealed. I expect the base of the bottle will come off so the ship can be slid in fully assembled.
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