DrJB

I would agree with that statement ... I worked 'with' Chrysler a while back, and they had a tendency to try many 'crazy' ideas, just because they could ... but then again 'crazy' for one is 'innovation' for someone else.

I came across the subject's model and it has TWO fake engines. Anyone knows what's the thinking behind this? I do not know of a single vehicle that uses two engines (airplanes excluded). http://www.brickshel...ry.cgi?f=468497 Edit: I searched further and it appears the actual Hurricane does indeed have 2 engines ... humm ... too little room in front or rear and engine had to be split in 2? I'm not sure I understand the logic. Anyone does? http://auto.howstuffworks.com/jeep-hurricane1.htm Better yet, take a look at the link below. The vehicle can rotate in place thanks to 'interesting' engineering. http://auto.howstuffworks.com/jeep-hurricane2.htm

Not sure where OP is located, but 9398 is on sale (20% off) now at Toys-R-Us for $160.00. Apparently they got many of them and they can't sell them.

I just checked amazon.com and you can see 'inside' a few more pages ... the book is definitely worth it, and amazon is offering a discount if you pre-order. I just did mine. I just discovered the DT-75 dozer and the Holmer Terra Dos T3 Sugar Beet Harvester.

If you can find one, I think 8466 is a good set as well. Some refer to it as the '3rd' supercar, together with 8880 and 8448.

Indeed ... reminds me of Axalara and Scopio .... full of technic/useful parts.

Forget the 8421, buy an RC Flame instead, you get 2 motors, and many more interesting parts.

Precisely! I must mention that the 9398 setup is NOT typically implemented in real life as it could lead to (lack of) stability. You should never power front and rear axles separately, unless controlled by some electronics/software. There are however multiple vehicles with dual 'motors', such as construction vehicles (dozer) with hydro-static transmission. In such case there are separate motors for the left and right tracks ... and since they're 'separate', the vehicle has a tendency to steer 'erratically, especially is the soil (left/right) is different. This is of course less problematic than the 9398/stability. Also, such tracked machines require some fancy electronics/software for 'straight tracking' i.e., to keep the vehicle going on a straight line, especially on rough terrain (non-paved roads).

In principle, a center differential is not necessary if the front and rear axle are spinning at the same average RPM. This assumes that all tires have the same rolling radii (inflation pressure vs. load per axle). This assumption however does not hold in real life and that is why a center differential is preferred. There are many reasons why (in real life) the average rpmss on the real and front axles could be different ... I hope this answers your question, else ask again.

I found this on youtube ... full of functions: can vary the control surfaces of the wings and also the pitch of the propeller ... very nicely done.

Agreed ... I feel as if TLG is 'sensing' the market to see if AFOL's are willing to pay a premium ... the Crane was already high at $219 ... now at $250, the Wheel Loader is leaning towards ludicrous.

Waiting for a good price on the Volvo as well ... somehow it feels as if this set is a bit overpriced.

Can't find the PB motor on LDD either ... has anyone figured this puzzle out?

One must ask: .... how did you manage to collect all those 'unique' parts ? ... special/insider connection from within TLG? ... perhaps someone working in the prototype lab?

Not all, you may need to get the extra/missing parts from bricklink

Not sure noise is the issue here ... and I know this because, I work on noise (for a living).

I once bought an 8880 fully assembled. First thing I did was to take it apart and wash all the parts. When I tried to put it back, I could not do it exactly as received. The seller had modified the seats and engine support and used different parts (that did not exist when 8880 came out) than those that came with the set. It was a good deal, but I had to buy some extra parts off bricklink to complete it.

Those that have gone bad on me ... they become very difficult to spin by hand. I wanted to cut tje capacitor and see if that helped ... but that's been a while. From my electrical course years ago, a capacitor is needed in AC motors to reduce effective power (Cos Phi) ... in DC motors however, I'm not sure what a capacitor is used for ... unless it's for some current limiting protection. Anyone knows for sure?

I did have 2-3 of those 'die' and ... decided to open them up to find out what exactly failed. I did not anything mechanical and somehow the root-cause to be electrical (a failed capacitor?). See, once I open them, they could spin easily. I must warn though, that those those are difficult to open up (without damaging) and put together as well.

Correct, that pin came pre-assembled in several lego parts, especially the technic frames and some train models. That pin is very difficult to take out, but ultimately TLG realized they can do without it and introduced the friction pin ... It also enables them to advertise a higher number of part counts on their sets ... but wait ... I'm being sarcastic here.

In this one (click), what are the two cylindrical chrome parts on each side of the radiator, looks like a 2/3 high round brick but I do not recognize the part ... is it custom?

Be sure to share pics of the GBCs when done ... always looking for new contraptions.

I'd go for the NXT ... not much of a difference in my opinion ... unless you want the latest/newest ... but that all depends on how good a deal you're getting. Now, RCX vs. NXT, there is a big difference .. but EV3 vs NXT, not in my opinion. You can even use the EV3 software to program the NXT. Also, and before you take the jump, you need to decide whether you'll be happy with the basic sensors (motors are essentially the same, between NXT and EV3, just slightly different shape/packaging) or plan on going into fancy such as Gyro and so on ... though choice either way, but whichever set u get, u'll enjoy it.

well ... if you really want to, you can pull out those pins (I did) ... and voila, you have the classical technic studded frames.

I stumbled upon this video upon perusing on youtube ... this is not made by Lego, but wondering if anyone out there has either replicated this or maybe will after watching the video. Neat what you can do with simple elements.