DrJB

Right on Blakbirf. My gripe with this is, when we buy large lego sets, we try (with my kids) each to build different sections and use a tablet instead of printed instructions ... but it's very difficult (as you rightly pointed out) to know what size liftarm (number of holes) is being used

The questions might have been asked already ... and apologies if I missed it. Are there any plans to make such virtual models available to the community? I know some are ... but not all of them.

True, but if I recall, the power puller tires have some printed white lettering (for those after original parts) ... those in 8466 are totally black ... matters not to me though.

While exploring some Building Instructions on TLG's website, I've noticed that some PDFs are very difficult to read ... i.e., difficult to distinguish the parts ... Is TLG running short on storage space or having bandwidth issues?

Nicely done ... but .. I must say that I've never seen a tracked vehicle pulling an airplane. To be technically 'correct' ... tracked vehciles typically go on rough non-paved surfaces, whereas a plane requires a high-quality smooth/surface ... seems the two are so out of place together .... :)

Lego will gladly (or at least they did for me on 2-3 occasions) replace broken/missing pieces. Remember, sending you a free/replacement part is an investment for them ... small price for them to pay to earn your trust (and $$$). That said, just go to their web site and request a missing/broken/replacement part.

You got it ... maybe this'll land me a job with TLG, and I won't ever complain about not finding the time to play with lego :)

Thank you for the detailed answers ... I envy your collection, but even more your dedication. Cheers.

Well ... while it is true there are many places that list how many people own such or such set, those statistics are for one set at a time only. Suppose for example that I'm looking for a pattern: some people buy only construction machines, others buy only cranes, while a third group buys only red cars. The idea was to look for 'patterns'. I for one buy only the large sets, I've bought all-in-all maybe 3 small sets because of specific parts. This type of information is not in the databases available out there. Oh, and a disclaimer: I'm not into data-mining or studying purchasing habits for some obscure reason, just thought this would be something fun to do.

I can't help but ponder how you came up with that number ... Correct, 'anonymous' is the key here ...

Might have been a ToysRUs display ... typically those are glued That's what I call artistic 'styling' ...

There are several threads where many of us list their sets .... and this is not an attempt to replicate that. What I was thinking instead is a master list in the form of an excel sheet where the EB members are listed top-down and lego sets are listed left-right. Then at the intersection, the number of each set the EB member owns. This is just a way to get a 'feel' as to what are popular sets out there ... etc. What do you think?

Those micro-motors would have a much higher value if they were still in their sealed bags ... After a while of collecting large amounts of Lego parts ... I'm at a cross-roads as I won't have time to use them all in a mega project (as I was initially hoping). Question is: So, you have many micro-motors ... but what do you do with them? Simply collect/store them in boxes? Also, something else to think of: the cables/interfaces for those micromotors are getting rare, and in old ones the rubber becomes brittle and falls apart ... so, you may have many motors, but difficult to find cables for them.

Not yet, but I got 2 of them with the EV3 Expansion Set, then went ahead and bought 10 off BL. I've been thinking about a GBC contraption ... but nothing final yet.

Case in point ... happened to the roommate of an old gf of mine ... many years ago. The roommate and mom bought a kitchen table from Ikea ... The instructions called for using a 'special' tool to tighten all the screws ... The two gals decided it was too difficult and opted to simply use a hammer to drive the screws in. Not only that, the biggest surprise (to them) was that the set came with many more nails (err screws) than needed.

I was contemplating the various intelligent bricks I have at home and was pondering ... Why on earth did TLG come up with a complicated solution with the RCX, namely the USB IR tower? ... Yes, it looks neat, it is wireless, but a simple USB cable from the computer to the yellow brick would have sufficed. I can't understand why a company would venture into developing its own wireless hardware/protocol ... when it should be focusing instead on its core business ... Yes it is hindsight, but was TLG simply after a wireless connection? ... or is it the option of two bricks talking to each other? If it's the latter, how much of that functionality was actually put to use e.e., how many people out there built contraptions that required two bricks to talk to each other?

Then the issue is definitely your power adapter. Are you sure you got the voltage correct? ALso, lego made two versions of the power adapter: AC and DC. Make sure you're using the DC version.

He said Control Center 1 .... CC1 uses batteries only, CC2 uses batteries and also has a plug for a power adapter. I am not sure about the internal wiring, but it might very well be that internally, there is a connection to the mid-point (i.e., 4.5 volts). I have seen that on some old radios (many years ago). Before doing that, I'd first take a voltmeter and make sure the adapter you're using is truly delivering whatever voltage it's supposed to be delivering. If that fails, take a screw-driver and open it up. Be careful though as some of the wire's rubber may be very brittle and could break off easily. I did replace mine on my CC2 .. all you need is proper gage wire and a soldering iron. Let me know if need more help.

I too am not clear about how it works... There seems to be four shafts, input, output, one to vary the ratio ... besides the input, what are the other three for? Could be that one is to vary the ratio, and the other is output ... but then what is the 4th shaft for? Also, if proven to work, this would need another level mechanics to optimize the speed based on the load (as in common car transmissions). Some sort of 'load-sense' mechanism would be needed. Not to be a skeptic, but it's hard to to believe this is a 'revolutionary' device ...

Check out Akiyuki's basket ball shooter. He's got a video on the internals and how the shock mechanism is actuated. He does use 'thin' 3x3 lift arms as cams.

This proably belongs more in the Digital Tools section, but I wanted to have a Technic perspective/opinion. Has anyone tried the 3DConnexion mouse with the various digital tools? If so, what's your experience? http://www.amazon.co...rds=3dconnexion

Yikes ,,, the 42039 has instantly gone from display model to parts pack .... Also, it seems there is less and less of Power Functions. Are the motors being phased out?

Is this an adaptation of Arthur Sacek's machine? Looks very similar

Check this out ... Another marvel from the GBC master himself.

Got the 42021 Snowmobile ... it's the only one I could 'justify', given the new parts.