Carsten Svendsen

Actually, not as advanced a code as I would have expected. Probably mostly because the perimeters are... hard coded? That seems odd, especially for that complex art piece in the first post. How do you convert an .svg image into plotting perimeters? I really like your design by the way. Nice idea of tension by shifting gears to twist the axles slightly, great use of the 8t slipping gear which I still haven't found a project for, and the big tracks compared to small tracks for accuracy. And it's not even an over the top complex design! I love it

I really like this project, but I'm mostly interested in how you programmed this thing.

Do you really need a differential though? It's not heavily loaded. I bet you could drive just the one wheel, and have the other wheel free-spinning. I don't think it looks bad with a bit of extra axle sticking out either. You could always decorate it with some discs or something. I have also never been hands on with the new differential, but is it possible to use 4L axle with stop from the inside, before assembling the diff?

A simple knob wheel and connector would do the trick

Thank you, even though you are not experienced with LEGO CAD software, I asked you exactly because of that. I've been wanting to make a 3D model of my FastBale for a while now, but the Studio software wasn't that great back in 2019. And I haven't really been modeling before, except with SR3D Builder which unfortunately was the best software out there until the creator died. I'll take a closer look at Studio during this lockdown, I have a feeling it's going to last for a few more weeks.

How do you find using Studio? I've tried it probably 3 years ago and it was definetly not up to my standards of construction. Is it easy to rotate pieces, places pieces in obscure/covered areas etc? Quite off topic I know.

Wow, I love that design of the flexible cable tray. I can't seem but notice that you're using halfpins to hold the triangles on. How come you don't use 2L axles and halfbeam 1x2 ? Too many parts maybe? At this point does it really matter? But then again, it works perfectly fine clearly, I would just imagine it's a bit wobbly.

Cool, an industrial project for once! I like it :)

Alright, thanks for the answers guys, seems like I'd have to make a digital version to get an accurate count. I reckoned about 5-6000 pieces my self as well. There are a lot of small pieces there and bricks and plates do add up surprisingly fast

Hi, I recently got contacted by the main boys, and now I'll be exhibiting my FastBale at AgriTechnica in Hanover next month. They want some basic information, like the amount of hours put into it and part count How does everyone else estimate the part count for their MOCs? Is there a rule of thumb?

Wow so compact while keeping a working and true design to an actual tractor. Great job Really, the only thing I don't like about this, is that you used LBG dogbones in the front. I would probably have resorted to a different way of putting it together to keep the color scheme

From a sheer looks perspective, you did an amazing job at recreating the real thing. I love it! I love the idea with the automatic level adjustment as well. I bet with some programming it could work in realtime, though you probably already fiddled a lot with it, just to get it to work in the first place already.. However, I am not a fan of the way you attached the bucket. Using thin liftarms with no triangular reinforcement is bound to make it wobble. Sure it's gonna hold, but I think you should've put a bit more work into that area. Otherwise, awesome MOC, and I can't wait to see your next one!

Wow, I completely forgot how much I love that old school look. We really should use those panels more often

I agree Thank you so much for your kind words Yeah, I'm bit of a perfectionist when it comes to reproducing real mechanisms. I even had to come up with my own mechanical ones as I obviously couldn't put sensors on it like on the real thing Haha, if witchcraft was involved it must have been when I actually decided to go through with it in the beginning. Yeah this build surpasses even me in what I thought was possible. I tell you what, routing 16 pneumatic hoses straight past the main chain for the pre chamber was a struggle. It never even occured to me how many hoses there would be, or even how much space it would take up!

The CLAAS Xerion 5000 pales in size comparison. I was thinking of building a big as tractor for it, but I'm not so sure anymore as it would require a lot of functions and therefore be equally complex. With the Instructions, I was considering doing at least a 3D model in stud.io, but then I would no doubt have take certain aspects apart, and let me tell you, getting it together wasn't easy. Besides, the amount of parts you would need is insane. Thank you very much. I could have chosen to control everything manually as a toy, but somehow I opted for the autonomous approach. Thank you, I wasn't sure if the video was detailed enough to make layman understand what he's actually looking at. I do realise that there are a lot of things going on at the same time sometimes, but pausing is a thing as well. If you don't challenge yourself you will never succeed. A haybaler is truly complex in nature, so recreating one is no easy feat. This goes for all kinds of them, square or round. At times I had no idea how to solve a problem and sometimes I looked at akiyoukis GBC's for complex mechanisms. This is how I came up with the net binding delay on the left side of the pre chamber.

Finally, I've had enough time to finish this creation and the associated video. It only took 2 years since it's conception, but I've had a lot of breakdowns in between. There were so many difficult challenges that I had to overcome, that the list would be too long for anyone to read it. Some of the main solutions that I'm proud of are: Using small pneumatic air pumps for the pre chamber. I went through a million iterations of different liftarm and brick arrangements before I finally looked in my pneumatic parts The knives cutting the net was tough since it had to be low profile while still maintaining travel distance Having either side of the main chamber interact with the pre chamber in sequence regarding resetting of pneumatic valves was probably my greatest achievement The independent pneumatic setup was quite a headache to figure out as there are a lot of possible ways to connect hoses and to make sure there is no unwanted air bleeding from the valves Lastly, the big power puller wheels are not meant to be attached from the outside, causing them to greatly sag and not function well. This was solved using an array of pins and towballs behind the rim The chambers were the very first thing to be built. I counted the amount of rollers needed from the official blueprints, then made circle cut outs and build a brick cage around the gears. Studded construction is certainly not my speciality which came to show later on in the end during the aestethic finish. This is also where I tried to make sense of highlighted colors for the functions: RED for valves YELLOW for key elements DBG to make functions stand out from the chassis GREEN for the net STICKERS for a realistic look - These were all taken from set sheets I also set a goal to myself of using some of the rarely used parts that comes or used to come in the Bionicle sets. This includes 4x Visorak Torsos (frame), 2x Bohrok Shoulders and 2x connector blocks with 6 axleholes (Wrapping table). Unfortunately I found no use for widely discussed 5x6x2 perpendicular fork with 3 fingers, except on my crude make-shift tractor. If there's anything you want to know or see, do not hesitate to ask, as I will never take this apart, and I can take as many extra pictures as needed i The circuit diagram tool can be found on this website. It has been much valued throughout the whole process. Note: This picture is an old WIP, but here you can see the internals More pictures can be found on my imgur gallery In the beginning I tested out different parts for the pickup to see which ones best pick up cut dried grass, and the rotor blades proved the best in this test. However, I would not try and actually make a haybale in this machine as there are several flaws: The plastic chain is certainly not meant for any sort of load and snaps if caught on something, which would be stuck rollers and therefore gears because of the hay There are gaps in the construction - Though I've tried my best to build it tight, hay would definetly get stuck and cause the dropfloor to get stuck This is LEGO, the tolerances in certain places are incredibly tight and will most likely fail during operation. The construction it self is solid though - I could drop it from standing height and nothing critical on it would break I hope you enjoyed looking at something different, this has certainly been my nemesis throughout construction, and is now a major milestone in my life.

Thank you. I was thinking today after the I posted this, if a PID controller would be too complicated, but you just reminded me that I only need the P portion of it which makes it significantly easier. Initial tests prove successful, so I am very happy

I am completely out of ideas. The fact that the NXt display isn't working doesn't make it easier to see what's going on. I've tried using the rotation sensor block (A) and output it directly to the duration of a motor block (B); The motor (B) starts spinning constantly as soon as motor (A) has changed it's rotation value, which is not what I want obviously. I outputted the rotation sensor value (A) to the tone frequency of a sound block and it was working fine. I can synchronise 2 motors with the move block, but I need to synchronise all 3. Any ideas?

Wow, I like this. If only to be critizising I would go for the visible deck for the feet. Surely you could've tiled it up to make it nice like the rest? Otherwise, I like your solution with the footpedal to raise and lower the cutter, and the lever for switching the clutch. How do you make it turn? The "easy" way to do this would be to brake each wheel individually with the handle bars, that I'm sure you know, is how it works IRL. Other than that, I like the overall design

@Brickbuilder0937 thank you very much, it's exactly what I was looking for

Hi, These dinos are very old and from my childhood. I have all the parts to put them together, but I don't have the instructions. Anyone knows which set they are from?

Wow what a nice model :D It reminds of this other one from last year:

What's the worm gear on an angle used for, that I spot on the undercarriage?

Wow, I am very impressed. I especially like the bohrok piece used as the body. It captures complexity very well in a simple way.

The small ones do have enough range, it's just about finding the right pivot point