896gerard
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Everything posted by 896gerard
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Well, if I've got it right, Sariel does not have the lipo RC unit, but 2x unit that is powered with 6 AA batteries. He says on his website that the top speed runs were done with fresh batteries. With the Peugeot, he clocked 15.6 km/h, off course with those fresh batteries. So that's not quite 'lipo'. And if you mean rechargeable batteries, those are not lipo buth NiMh and have a lower voltage than throw-away batteries (1.2 instead of 1.5), giving any model less power. And indeed the RC unit in the 8675 set uses a lipo, but this set (and the 3 other sets in which it occurs) contains so few real Technic pieces... my title says: Lego Technic lipo racer. Further, I'm very surprised about the fact that my little car with 2 race buggy motors on one standard Lipo battery box (so with half the motors and less than half the power because of the BB current limit) went 14 km/h while the mighty Peugeot with all its power did 15.6kph... (Off course, the 2 km/h difference is still a huge gap at those speeds!) -
The speed runs were done on the same asphalt that you saw in the video, so if it has a slope then the slope is quite invisible... And it was not my idea of giving it a title, but you always have to think of a YouTube video title and this was the right one, according to me... But I really like that you did a calculation, doing that occasionally keeps me and all the others sharp!
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No, you can get the title only if make your own model a little faster. It is seen from an engineering perspective, when you start using the Lego electronics at their limit. Building at the limit is what I have done, I hope everyone including you understands that. And with the Lego RC Unit, all you have to do is connect the few big components such as motors, steering and the shape of the model is pretty much defined. Also you need to do very little about the drivetrain and current startup, as the RC unit does that already. In this model, those things are not automatically granted, so you need to design them yourself, which delivers much more satisfaction when it's working all correctly.
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Good question. I always like these questions. However, I have measured this speed with my calibrated bicycle computer. Calibrating means measuring the circumference of the front tire manually in mm and inserting it in the the bicycle computer. This method is not in the bicycle computer's manual. Having said that, I clocked many (at least 5) 12 km/h runs. When the straight road was a little longer, I clocked speeds of 13.8 km/h. There were at least 2 runs with 13.8 km/h on them. I do not understand it either, but I just put in the video what I measured.
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42054 - Claas Xerion 5000 Trac VC
896gerard replied to Jim's topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling
Nice, my father too has an MF 6270 and I've taken some inspiration... On topic, I have built quite some Lego tractors (the YT link proves that) and I'm really happy that Lego is finally taking the effort to make proper tires. It is my deepest wish that more sizes become available so that the real Lego Tractor builders can do their thing... because this Claas is really a quite easy tractor to build with it equally-sized wheels. Most tractors that are produced and used now don't have equally sized wheels. Having a tractor with equally-sized wheels is just an easy trick to solve the 4WD problem (because the 4WD is more complex with different sizes of front and rear tires). The MF tractor in the video above has a center differential to divide the power equally over the front and rear axle, and that complexity is maybe not what the Lego designers are allowed to build into their designs. So from a Lego Designers point of view, it's handy to start with a tractor with equally-sized tires. I'm not sure about the design of the bonnet of this Claas though, I need a little to much of my imagination. I'm trying to be strict for my own tractors, so I'm automatically strict for the tractors of others too...My guess for the heavyness of the steering: very heavy because there's a lot of weight over the front axle. My guess for the turning circle: very large, because the front tires are too wide to allow a larger steering lock. On most tractors. the front tires are narrower just to enable a larger steering lock. Because this is Lego, off course this is not the case. -
Many people are telling me about this 'current startup' problem with using two RC buggy motors on one lipo battery box. Therefore I've started looking around a bit now and found that even less people have done it this way then I thought.... ... they just bought another expensive lipo battery box and used one lipo box for one RC buggy motor. But as an electrical engineering student, I'm always looking for the boundaries of any given system. The idea of using this bypass is just something I found out after building the Luctor because the gearbox broke everytime I used the bang bang controller, the immense torque of two XL motors was enough to pop out some gears at high loads... So the XL motors also were controlled with the speed remote to have this slow-current starting system. To conclude, the racecar startup system was invented on a slow truck! Some links for evidence: http://www.moc-pages.com/moc.php/414168 and for the controller: http://www.moc-pages.com/image_zoom.php?mocid=414168&id=/user_images/52513/14340583375
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And that's why I'm saying consistently everywhere that it's the fastest lipo racer, so a racer with the lithium battery on board. If you see it that way, it really is the fastest. And everyone may correct me because I don't waste all my evenings watching YouTube videos, I rather spend my evenings building cars like this. And as for the speed: Off course, the RC unit can pump more juice that the lipo battery box. But it is thousand times less fun if you build it that way because the lightness is gone. It certainly wouldn't fly over the ramp anymore.
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I have long awaited the moment that two race buggy motors would be in my reach, as they are quite expensive now... and I also bought the Lego Technic lipo battery two years ago. The perfect recipe for a small lightweight racer! Read the rest of the story at: http://www.moc-pages.../moc.php/424516. For now, there's just these two pictures and two videos. To post the photos on Eurobricks, I had to serieusly resize them. If you want to see the better quality images, just click this link: http://www.brickshel...ry.cgi?f=561899. All photos can also be found on the MocPage link, and can also be hosted from MocPages. This is because brickshelf has sometimes a rather long posting time. Please do not use THESE EXACT photos on another website, they are really at 10% of their real quality because Eurobricks requests it. The brickshelf photos are really better!
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The intention was that it should drive in a straight line and stop at the of the concrete plate. But thanks to the incredible reliable Lego Technic steering racks, the steering had so much play that it turned to the right... Afterwards, I'm happy with that because if it would be there in the middle, it would have been crushed between the two polystyrene blocks that went in between the 'real Luctor' front wheels. The second reason why I was happy: I couldn't get the Luctor to stop because the infrared range appeared to be about 2.5 metres... It was a race between the elephant and the mouse and the mouse has won while being completely out of control.
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It came past me at 25 mph and just one metre away from me it burst through the wall. Intense experience... I had to be so close because of the appalling range of the PF IR system.
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Dear eager eurobricks readers, After my Luctor adventure (see http://mocpages.com/moc.php/414168), I thought the story was all over and that it would dust away in a corner, yellowing faster than a ripening banana. However, the company that I sold it to asked me if it could open their 35-year business anniversary by driving through a polystyrene wall! They didn't prepare me for the terror that was coming.... Nearly crushed a one-year priceless Lego creation! But what a good use of a vehicle to give it one last appearance before it dusts away in the history books! Enjoy the video! (in Dutch, sorry...) More videos to get you informed about the Luctor: More about the Luctor itself (this video has already sometime ago been posted here) Can you think of a bigger reward for building a Lego MOC?
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Of course that can happen. But at least with this trailer, you can drive straight through a river and with a lowbed, you can't. It's just where your priorities are. My initial idea when I started this project is that I wanted to make an offroad trailer with a very small slope. This whole idea of getting rid of the trailer wheels while unloading copies the small ramp from a low-bed trailer, while having good offroading capabilities when driving. If you would use the same wheels as a low bed trailer, the trailer would have the same height of a low-bed trailer and an incredibly small slope of the ramp. Well, it seems that somebody else had the same idea... I have never seen that video before. I'm happy that my idea is implemented in practice as well and also seems to work really well!
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I think you have not quite realized what my goal is with building Lego Technic creations like this. It is not about building it precisely to a certain scale. It is about inventing new ideas. Building exactly to a certain scale is what many people with Technic or non-Technic pieces. And some of them are incredibly good at it. But to be fair, that is not my personal deepest motive while building with Lego Technic. My biggest pleasure in building with Lego Technic comes from the fact that I often happen to be able to build creations with ideas that no-one has ever built before. And that is something that very few Technic builders do. That is the reason that I did not drive this DAF CF into perfection. For me, it was enough that it had clean looks and that it can be recognised as a DAF. The trailer is the main point of interest here!
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Yes you probably could do more at this scale. But not if you have power functions in it and by using a lot of non-Technic pieces. I wanted to prove that you can actually make a truck with Technic pieces AND let it pull a heavy 80 cm long trailer. Please remind that the flat 6 under the cabin takes away a lot of space and that still a steering electric motor has to go there. 4WD simply didn't fit. Maybe if you take all motors out. And do not forget that the cabin folds forward, which requires an extra Technic supporting frame to be under the seats. Having all of those features in one package makes it impossible to do the things you want. Have you ever tried it yourself?
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Thanks for your comment, on my screen the photo was exactly the width of the page, so that's why I used it. I have corrected the photo, thanks for correcting the font.
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How would you use "small wheels because sometimes you need more load height"? Will not happen. I have personally tested already that this trailer can lift a weight of 1,5 kg (more than the DAF truck itself!) without lifting the truck a mm. If this model unit is built with non-lego pieces, the trailer can also be optimized further so that the rear axle does not need to shift fully forward but only partially. Well, I'm a Technic builder. And this is a very small scale. You cannot do everything with Technic pieces at this scale. The DAF is not built with Unimog tyres. You may try if you want to do it better with Technic pieces at this scale. Sorry for that, I cannot publish it myself. The same photos are available on my Mocpages account: http://mocpages.com/moc.php/421622
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Well, it IS strong enough. I have put the 8258 truck on it and it only bended about 1mm. The hardest part of building the trailer was indeed the fact that the trailer bed had to be very thin AND very strong, but I designed for that and it appeared to be very strong. Because it is thin, that does not mean that it is automatically weak. If you think so, maybe you should have a look at the brickshelf link, where the 8258 is on my trailer. Or maybe read some Mechanics Engineering books how to make thin lego structures like this very strong.
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I'm not really a regular truck builder, but I like to think of new systems that do not exist in real life yet but that do improve the life of, for example, truck drivers. When something like a big tarmac machine has to drive onto a trailer to go to the next building site, the slope of the trailer should be very small. That small slope is nowadays achieved by making very large ramps that fold up vertically for transport, causing massive air resistance and therefore unnecessary fuel consumption. A way to make these ramps shorter is to decrease the bed height, because that asks for smaller vertical ramps. The second option is making the wheels below the bed smaller. But decreasing the wheel diameter increases the rolling resistance. Another way to solve the problem is placing the bed betweeen the wheels, so that it can be much lower, but that limits the cargo width: the tarmac machine can never be wider than the bed width, which is not handy if truckdriver x has to transport many different tarmac machines. Read the rest of the story and how I solved these problems with my my DAF CF with 3-axle trailer on http://mocpages.com/moc.php/421622 Or watch the video here: To give an idea of the model, I have posted one photo below, the others can be found on http://www.brickshel...ry.cgi?f=560197 in a better resolution.[/font][/size]
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Is that Top Gear America? I use to prefer the British version, and I cannot remember it too.. (By the way, that looks like a Mazda MX-5 on a bodyless Toyota pickup..)
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Well, I didn't take it in the wrong way, I think I understood why you said it in that way, so don't worry! You had the picture of that East-German car in mind, while I had nothing in mind...
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Hello! I'm the builder of the original model. You might think that I have used the same car photo for the design, but that is not the case. This bodycomes straight out my own head and was as light as possible, without compromising design. So yes, it may look like that metulskie8 made my design more 'fit' to that East-German car, but that's not where my car body comes from. To show what my own chassis can do: I'm the builder of the original model and I'm glad that my work was used as inspiration! However, I think the body you built is a little bit heavier than mine, because you focused more on 'closing the gaps', while I focused on maximum climbing performance AND having a nice design which is also very light, because that's what you need when climbing.
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Wow, you are on it! It is very nice that someone actually takes over my idea and starts making it better and larger.
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Somebody told me to post my (3D printed) idea on this topic to let Lego make it. Well, here is the topic: http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=114691&hl= It is a part to realize 3 or more drive axles through one standard size turntable and 2 axles through a small turntable. This is a copy of my own post: To get a better idea of the part, you can find some photos here: All photo's can be found on: http://mocpages.com/moc.php/419288 in a higher resolution. The CAD drawing assembly: This design is extenable to bigger versions, I think that up to 5 or 6 axles would fit through the turntable. The only problem is connecting all gears in a robust way: to 'get to the gears', the outer gears have to get a bigger diameter and the problem of space-consumivity is back. I found that the three axle design really was a good optimization between robustness, way of accessing the gears and maximum transported torque through them. A YouTuber has made the 4 axle solution in just about 1 evening, this shows how scalable the design is. Photos: It is my hope that the Lego group takes over this idea and starts producing it, because especially the three-axle option ore the two-axles through the small turntable could be very useful in an upcoming Lego flagship. So, if you happen know someone at the Lego Technic department, please give him/her a good impression of the idea!
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A Youtuber, Senti Josef, saw my idea and created the four axle solution in about 1 evening. That shows how scalable the idea is: As you can see, the 4-axle solution has an even better quality than my own parts! Because the gears are so tight together, I think the solution is not flimsy. In the video, I show you how the 4 axles can be accessed. If this is done with 90 degrees difference for each gear, there is enough space to mount the 16t gear properly. With this solution, we need 3 16t gears around it (the 4th axle goes through it and is directly accessible), so a 5-axle solution would use 4x90 degrees, filling all the orthogonal space. That means that for a 6-axle solution, bigger gears need to be used for the outer shaft or the gears that access the part have to be 20t gears.
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I developed my idea entirely independent of him. In fact, this is the first time I saw the part! It is NOT basically the same part, as the part of Alasdair Ryan still has the delays (because of the standard clutch gear fittings) ánd it fills all space in the turntable completely, not allowing for any more axles. My design allows for more axles. To be fair, this design looks as if it can have way less torque than my solution. Especially the 20t-12t gear connection will not be able to handle a lot of torque without slipping. My solution has the real 16t gears with long teeth. In my design, the outer shaft connects through 16t gears. In the video you can see how much torque even that shaft could transfer: it drove the crane's heaviest function, lifting the boom, without problems.