steph77

Understood Jim

Ok, @Jim decide. I'll have to find a way to fix the issue and find an acceptable designed solution to the windshild. Lego's one is jus weird, but let's wait a bit to think out to a solution. I'll post the results as soon as i'll be near my parts again. S.

@Jurss is right. These tyres gives a lot of personality to your build. I also think you better have to keep them. S.

@Jim and @Milan, As stated in my dedicate topic, some people complain about the windshild i used on my model. Their complain is founded and understandable. So, as the concerned part is homemade, but on the same principle than the official part, what do we all have to do? - Use only the official part or, - Authorize everyone to cut their own windshild out of a single plastic shield? Whatever the answer, i'll follow the rule you say. S.

You are right. µI didn't thought about this issue as i was concentrate on the model and mechanics aspect. Whatever, let's @Jim and @Milan decide what to do. Rules are the rules. If decided, i will just replace the transparent windshilt that i cut out a single recup plastic shield by the official one that has the global same shape. I'll post the question in the repective contest general topic.

Looks well started! Is the front suspension final? I told me: the suspension travel is too long, why not implement a setup like the BMW R1200 or like the real Honda Goldwing? If the front end lateral side panels can open on the final model, coul be a cool thing to show inside? Keep this one up! it worth it! S.

Cool to see the way it goes Does the 2 cylinders engine be the final choice? seems a bit of undersized no? Maybe, if keeping the 2 cylinders setup, built it in the spirit of set 8051 (b-model)? S.

Cool model! I would work a bit the saddle area and the rear end of it. Needs some volume there compared to the rest of the built. Good job!

Obviously, a stunning built! +1 with those who think that the tubular frame would be much identified by moving to another color. No clear idea of wich on to choose. Maybe the LBG or DBG. But it had to be consistent and the choosen color would idealy fit to each structural part, to identify it. JMHO. I also find that the fuel tank seems to pou up a bit , could be better if lowered by one or even 1+1/2 studs, what do you think about that? S.

Yes Sir. I spend less time on this build now. Back at work and far from my parts. However, i spend my avalaible time at cleaning the built. After seeing @HorcikDesigns fantastic build i had a doubt at first. But finally i'll keep my line on a clean built, in pure technic style. I take the bike appart and tried to rebuilt each part as a subassembly, essentially for the bodywork part. The structure of the bike itself is inspired by modern bikes builds where the engine itself is part of the structure. I also build a stand for both the bike and the bodywork. I managed to limit the bodywork point of fixation at 6 points. So removing the body is quickly done and gives a playability value to the build. As said before i added a rear break also. Simply based on a lever that locks one of the transmision gear. Not realistic, but works well. If not i wouldn't have implement it. Take 06 (sorry for bad pictures, wheater is horrible and i only own a smartphone to take pictures.) The bodywork on it's stand: detailed view of the front end's bodywork; Detail of the upper front en assembly: I know for the thin gray tube that must be black...out of stock Fuel tank cover assembly: And then the naked bike: details added, radiators, piping and cleaning the built. I also insert a transversal spicer/structural reinforcement The fork assembly is new, sturdier and more compact at the same time. Radiators and piping work is visible too. It is difficult to imagine, based on the naked thing, how the final design will be. In real life, it's the same @HorcikDesigns :The break pedal: a caoutchouc parts assume 'the get back to neutral' position That's it for today. I think i arrive at the end of the build process on this one. S.

Thanks! I've add a rear break system with right foot pedal command to it. Nothing complex (dead simple in fact), but still an add on. S.

Oh my bad, yes, you're right. It was porshe's competition...

Is'nt IP label related to Volvo brand? Remember a official contest for IP vehicle related to Volvo.

- I also struggle with the positions of the small panel that fill the gape lateraly. I finaly decided not putting those piece, as without it i have a better view to the pistons movement. Maybe some grabbing around the engine would visually compensate? - Ok for the frame, understood your buildlding skill

Hello A tail rotor has, by definition, NO specific orientation. As the blades have both positive OR negative pitch, there are no Reason to put it in one or another side of the aircraft. You could object that the tail of the aircraft is an obstacle at the air blow, but it is also an obstacle to the air intake to the rotor. Dynamic of air flow is quiet complex, but you can figure out of it that the airflow is hooverd all around the rotor in a vertical plane and swooshed perpendiculary by the blades effect. So, no care of it for this little set. That looks cool by the way... @SarielThanks for reviewed it

This shifter 'as is' is too weak. The arms of the shifter have to be place inside of two poulley wheel and supporter between two liftarm. If tou do that. Shifter will word proprely

……………...Shift …………..Shift...………………………………………

The lego one... From my point of view, when working that hard on the design, a shifftable gearbox is not mandatory...

Looks good so far, love the concept The stiffening that makes the shiffter go better is a known feeling Maybe you should add a support going +/- from the base of the rear swingarm to the rear end of the seat. It would give a little more consistance to this area and, if realised structurally, could heelp the rear suspension not stressing the shiffter area. In the same idea, i would add a horizontal frame section between the steering bar and the rear frame (on upper side of the engine) And, maybe you could center the exhaust pipes (that looks good) on each cylindre by using 2X 1 brick of two studs with centeraxle hole ? Good work! EDIT: for the fuel tank, i would use the same panels but oriented by 180° and taking one more stud in lenght so the front end do not 'popup' as it does now. Always a challenging area this fuel tank...

Looks sweet So you go for a ducati like gearbox? S.

I make use of older parts only when they have not be replaced or when current parts does not allow some functionalities. Typically, I use the swashplate part for helicopter as example.

This is the correct setup: The 24T and 16T doesn't mesh together, and chain link gives the right rotation orientation (same for the two driving ring axle)

You're right, and not. The LDD shows the correct built. On the left side, the 24T and the 16T are connected with a chain link, this way, the rotation is ok. My problem is actually that i have so much bikes built that i miss chain links! So i temporaly replace the 24T + 16T + chain by a single 32T/16T that merge correctly, at the prize, you're right, to have two ways of rotation. Obvsiously, final model will get the correct setup It does , and in a pretty smooth way...

Ok, i have tried to explain it by text. But i failed. So, here are some LDD render of the whole thing. The blue 20T gear are all wormgear, but i didn't found them under LDD. S. Who says headeach ??? S.

looks good and sweet! Well done withe the fake- tubular frame. Looking forwards to progress. S.