1gor

I know the feeling; today realized that on my project I need 9 studs liftarms to connect steering hubs and there is no such liftarms with perpendicular holes so back to the drawing board...at least I've gave up with gearbox and fake engines...

Maybe turbulence from your Sikorski did that

Somehow it looked (to me) better without front stickers, but it is just my own opinion...

Looks very nice. I hope that you didn't celebrate this model with coffee here

Very cute

Does HOG have to be in center? If it could be few studs to the right or left then you can put it at the side of gear lever ...

That is cute lil Fastrac

Well that is stiff alright

I see that upper picture is picture from bottom... perhaps you could use 2 thin 5L liftarms below it to connect 2 5x7 frames to make it stiffer (I can't see if you made some reinforcements at the side of differential)

That's a good one; or we'll make convertible of it

Since you put a title with name of singer who was actual author of stranger in the night, I'll follow this with interest.

New chassis is a bit for optimist class (94mm work with it if they would ever be released). That is the reason for transverse position of XL motors (somehow in this configuration I don't have this effect of power oscillation...like when configuration is longitudinal - some people use stronger non-Lego parts due to much higher torque from XL motors in order not to twist axles). Chassis would be fully suspended like on all Fastracs and there will be front steering only. My 4220 has the same type full suspension; both front and rear. Even Syntrac is fully suspended, but a bit to wide and one PF Servo is working from time to time (probably wire issue). Due to last problem, I'm rethinking about using m-motor for steering on Fastrac. This 8000 series will having battery box just over motors, so when kitty will allow me next free hour I'll look what to make from front chassis part and axle; goal is to have as stiff as possible solution with least possible parts... Before planning was really hard for me, but upcoming year 2022 will be the most difficult in my whole life... Nice to have some support in my projects Kind regards This my old project uses front suspended axle and suspended cab over stiff axle. https://brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?i=6270640

After several months of Lego neglecting, today I had some hour time to try something...since LEGO introduced Zetros I had an idea to switch my models to smaller (1:18) scale. First step was Unimog U423 which was fully manual model and presented here. Next on schedule is Fastrac. So far I managed to make drive with two XL motors with total reduction of 12-20 and 12:28. If someone remember some 2 months ago I have found solution for 87.5mm tractor tire, but now it is 90mm (probably old 24 x 43 tire stretched a bit since I almost broke my fingers when pulling 81 x 35 tractor tire with 24 x 43 inside on 43.2 x 26 wheel Technic racing small; digital Werner scale or caliper still measured Xerion tire - 107mm). As always main challenge is to fit everything in small space and make it stiff enough. So far it looks like this (wheelbase 22 studs): As you can see pets blanket is used as background. Any comment, suggestion, critic are as always welcome. And this time it will be biggest 8330 instead of 4220 Fastrac.

As time goes by, seeing 2022 sets, only 42139 look to me as sets deserved to be called Technic...(licensed sets except pullbacks are not that bad but imho overpriced; don't understand why non-licensed set can not be done?)

When I see how much effort you put in positive mods I got tempted to buy sets that are originally fiasco IMHO

Cool idea for B model, just don't let those guys drive it

Cab is really good, but I wonder if you can make front mudguards more smooth?

You could be right; nowhere is written that it is worth over tires; speaking about tires - very interesting solution for mudguards on Fastrac 3185

Houston we have a problem. This is really threatening. Now I'll be scared about busses. ...but very original idea.

Very often I needed them for stiffness when ground clearance was an issue e.g. my telehandler, syntrac and fastrac projects are on standstill because of that (or I should start (re)building every MOC in 1:18 scale cause of 7 studs thin liftarms availability)

That is really optimal space usage. Very well done

Looks very compact. Us it possible to see your work in progress? Thanks

I suppose you mean rigid one... sadly there is no CV axle to fit it, but as people told me once in the past that I have to consider myself lucky even to be born, Lego would probably made one that is to short or to long for my project... Thanks

I need more torque (from 2 L motors)... I plan to connect both of reduction hubs close to 5 x 7 frame (in order to maintain correct width) on right and left side and connect them with 9L beams...

Jerry you have tested RC version or just manual version with 8 tooth?