raminator

now this looks like a real groot!

Isn't it Blueke Skywalker? :p

only good thing about it would be the Ant-Man helmet.

Best thing is that €-Prizes seem to be lower compared to this year prizes. For compareable sets this is, like 2014 CapAm vs Hydra (~25€) and 2015 Thor&Barton vs Hydra (~20€).

I find it interesting that the upper part seems to have the same height as a normal torso. Also I don´t think that it is part of the other parts that are there. And if they are part of the Hulkbuster or another BigFig then it is missing another half of it. See the three pins on the Back? Looks like something has to be sticked on to of it...Something in pearl gold? Could be then a part of the arms...

Is this simply a jpg/png or a vector grafic? You could add some Detail to the belt and maybe add muscles. If you are sending this to Steindrucker you can download a minifig template for vector gfx on his site. I recommend to use it. The torso color in your grafic should be transparent. Else he would print black on a black torso. Also, you should simply contact the printer and ask for specific design guidelines. If you need any help, feel free to pm me.

SY´s is originally by eclipseGrafx. So eclipse´s is better :P

http://www.steindrucker.com This Deadpool variant looks funky. Though to be honest if i´d make that, it would basicly be an recolor of the other two. Lazy me :P Also...was does "partial" mean in this context?

Guess what? A few weeks were not enough... Did some new test in the last few weeks. 1) I painted some time ago a 4-Juniors-Fig with Revell Paint. My observation was that the layers of paint were to thick to be any useful. So I bought some special thinner for those inks. Works alot better (thinner layers) and you can use it to stamp. (Of course you can stamp with the standard paint aswell...) The first pic shows a "potatoe-stamp" made of a 2-component-silicon and a stamped torso using the un-thinned Revell-Paint. Nothing really exciting. But the "Potatoe" transfers the paint/ink alot better than the other stamps I have. This isn´t really a breakthrough since the kinda oily surface of those silicons helps. (Padprinting Pads are made of Silicon aswell) I should mention that for a test before I "casted" the "potatoe" with a flat surface. The "L" was cut out afterwards. 2) From the experiences I got I came to the idea to use a Stamp I made earlier and use for molding a newer "Potatoe" with finer Details... This is what I used. And this is what came out after making a Negative out of my old Stamp an than creating a Positive-Potatoe. The quality of the new Potatoe is weak...so no wonders to expect. Again I used the Revell-Paint. Left shows thinned Paint with too much pressure (less pressure wouldn´t have helped because of the bad quality Potatoe). Right shows thicker Paint with less pressure. 3) The last test that I did was to use the old stamped Batman torso and paint the belt with the yellow Ink I mentioned in one of the earlier posts. Afterwards I simply overstamped the outlines with the black solvent Ink I talked about in the beginning of this threat. As you can see at the Belt I was not patient enough to let the yellow ink completely dry. Basicly there are two things to do. Making better Potatoes (like getting a negative engrave and then cast). Finding better Inks/Paints. At this point I don´t want to do further experiments/research since it is pretty costly. I realised that to get the quality I want I have to build or purchase a hand operated pad-printing-machine like this. So my suggestion for anyone hwo wants to try this is: Just create 2 stamps with the black outlines you need. Make one with thinner lines that you stamp first and one with bolder lines that you stamp in the end. Then paint the areas that should be colored carefully. Use thinned paints. A layer of primer might help. Let it dry. Afterwards let it dry even more :P Use the bold stamp. Seal it with a clear coat. The quality in the end should be better than completely handpainting.

Nobody wondering that the last post of the author was nearly one year ago? Or am I something missing?

I totally understood the potatoe comment. I just wanted to express that I would be fine if I could achieve their quality for my experiments. I plan to do some more testing in the comming weeks on stamping and hope to present more satisfying results in the corresponding thread.

I am that member you are talking about. The rubber stamping sadly only worked for me with solvent inks and only for fine lines. Stamping large areas it pretty much a pain in the megablocks because you don´t get the ink uniformly onto the torsos. I tried different inks (mostly some that are used for tyres, metals or plastics) but you cannot transfer the ink in an OK quality because you always get too much ink on your stamp. If this company achieves that with potatoes and I am able to rubberstamp my fine lines/details on top of them, I would be pretty happy. And btw... If a member posted some figures that where "hand made" stamped with potatoes with the same quality as those bootlegs in the MCW everybody would be like "OMG that is foocking awesome"... EDIT: here´s the link to my topic on rubber stamping http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=86737

If I could print that at home with potatoes I would by a lot of potatoes right now.

Legs move just fine ;)

After some while again some updated prints. Let´s start with my new Ant-Man head. left V2, middle v1, right V3 (new version) The torsos and legs are the evolutionary steps from the left (oldest) to the right (newest). Evolution of Ant-Men by bricks @ raminator, on Flickr Next is basicly the same evolutionary steps from left to the right for my Yellow Jacket. The legs need some more work... Yellow Jacket V1 & V2 by bricks @ raminator, on Flickr Now just new heads for Batman and Dare Devil. Batman and Dare Devil with new heads by bricks @ raminator, on Flickr Last but not least two new figures. Ok it´s basicly one in two different colors :P All hail Deadpool Deadpools by bricks @ raminator, on Flickr Like always: comments and tips to make these designs better are more than welcome.

I don't believe that they copy the custom bigfigs by creating a mold out of them. They'll model them themselfs after the game designs or even use something like 3d ripper or hack the datafiles to extract the 3d models.

BUMP I just tried the thinner for Revell enamel paints. Took about a minute to get all the ink off. The torso seems to be as shiny as before. Have to try this on other torsos to because this one was white.

The helmet is simply pr0nflakes. How did you do that?

I gave Phoenix a try. I´m lacking flesh heads so the gloves and boots look like skin :P purist Phoenix by bricks @ raminator, on Flickr

In germany you get doubble points for purchaising the Exo Suit.

My bet is on Futurama. cmf + Planet Xpress building or Spaceship as d2c. I would buy an Army of Zoidbergs!!! If it's not Futurama it will be something Lego has not had a license before.

I read some time ago, that Mega Blopps may have lost their Blizzard licenses. But I doubt Lego would make WOW sets sibce it's basicly a jellybean version of lotr. If there' s castle sets next year then it will look exactly like current line with the blue and red swaped for another colors...

Thank you and good luck with your project.

Steindrucker does only digital UV and engraving. So no Pad-Printing. From what I have seen on brickmap Steindrucker offers the cheapest prize per printed Item. (1 doublesided torso = 3,50 € and 1 head = 1,50) Here you can find some figures that I got printed by him. The 4 figs cost me 7€ each (printing = doublesided Torso + Head + Legs). If you prefer Pad over Digital you might consider Citizen Brick, but makes Imo only sense if you want plenty of torsos or heads.

Sure. The picture shows the figures how they arrived from the printer. Hands have already been replaced. ;)